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      01-04-2020, 04:20 PM   #1
MtBMW73
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2E0F Valvetronic deactivated code. Dealer potentially misdiagnosed?

Need some opinions here. This is an interesting case and I may have dodged a major expense… Not counting any unhatched chickens yet though. (This post is also a bit of a rant.)

TL;DR:
Dealer service quoted me thousands for a potentially unnecessary repair. Is it worth bringing this to the attention of dealer management?

Here is the full story:

I have a 2013 E92 with 74,500 miles. I had been getting some stumbling/hunting at idle when starting cold, which goes away when warmed up. Checking for codes shows 2E0F: "Valvetronic system deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent." If I clear the code it comes back immediately. No SES/CEL, no noticeable performance issues. It's been there for a while, maybe 6 to 10 months. But without any other issues, I basically ignored it.

However, I don't like driving around knowing something is not working as it should, so I continued to research. I found various posts saying the Valvetronic motor needs to be replaced. However, I also found some saying that a DME firmware from the dealer would fix this code, and a few saying that recalibrating the Valvetronic motor would fix it.

So this week I made an appointment with the dealer to have the DME firmware updated. I explained that I was getting some stumbling at cold idle and the 2E0F code and requested a DME firmware update. Of course they needed to perform an hour of diagnostic work before doing anything. "Ok, fine," I said.

Service rep called me later in the day and said the tech ran some diagnostic tests, and "found vehicle needing eccentric shaft and Valvetronic motor." Cost: $5930.37.

Yes. Almost six thousand dollars.

I had him repeat that three times, since I was sure I was mishearing.

I asked what the hell are they doing that costs almost six grand? He said it's very labor intensive and would take two full days. I told him not to do anything and that I needed to figure out what, if anything, I was going to do. I asked him what would happen if I did nothing, since other than the occasional rough idle, I had no CEL or other symptoms. He didn't give me a very coherent answer, other than engine performance would eventually suffer. (I also asked him "do people with this same issue actually go through with fixing it??" He said "yes, usually they do" and recommended I have the repair done.)

I came home and started researching what all is involved in the Valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft replacement, and is it something I'd be able to handle on my own. 16 hours of labor is definitely a lot, but I've been working on my own cars for years, so if it doesn't require any expensive specialty tools, I might be able to do it myself over several days.

I also researched how to do the recalibration and what software I would need. I then looked more closely at my BMW scan tool and discovered that it can actually do it. So I ran the recalibration, and lo and behold, the code was gone. Same with the rough idle. I've been driving around now for two days and have scanned for codes repeatedly, and it hasn't come back.

So what would have happened if I had said "go ahead" to that $6000 repair? Would the technician have run the same recalibration FIRST and possibly figured out that the repair wasn't needed? Or would I have thrown my money away? I am actually considering contacting the service manager, explaining my situation and asking "WTF?" How can I trust this dealer in the future?

I am curious to hear what others would do in this situation.

I have to say I am just floored at what dealers charge for service. I am also in need of brakes, and they quoted me almost $2000 for new pads and rotors. Two grand! For brakes! Do people actually pay this?? I bought this car used three years ago, and my previous car was an Audi that I owned for over 16 years, and I remember avoiding the dealers once I was out of warranty because they were just so expensive. So it's been probably 10 years since I paid a dealer for anything. But it has gotten ridiculous IMO.
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      01-04-2020, 04:59 PM   #2
Leucosticte
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Lol that's crazy, I did my brakes for 500 bucks from an indy
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      01-04-2020, 05:34 PM   #3
MtBMW73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakapo View Post
Lol that's crazy, I did my brakes for 500 bucks from an indy
Yeah, I know. I just did my wife's MINI Countryman's brakes last month, new pads and rotors all around. Total cost: $410 for a full brake service kit from ECS plus an afternoon of my time. I can't believe anyone would pay the dealer that much.

Last edited by MtBMW73; 01-05-2020 at 09:33 AM..
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      01-04-2020, 05:43 PM   #4
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I actually had the same code this past summer. Unfortunately for me when my mechanic tried to make the car relearn the valvetronic limits it would fail. So he replaced the valvetronic actuator and tried the re-calibration procedure but it failed again. Then he replaced the eccentric shaft ($1k part on its own) which ended up solving the issue. Total cost before tax: $2700, including parts.

Honestly the car didn't really drive the same after that repair, it pulled the way it used at WOT but felt kinda rough at partial throttle. Ended up trading the car in couple months later.
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      01-14-2020, 12:12 PM   #5
MtBMW73
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Quick follow-up. I received an online survey from the dealer about my service, so I explained what happened. Got no response. Then a few days later, I received another automated email from the dealer saying they would like to hear any feedback and provided their phone number. So I called and talked with my service adviser, explaining how I solved the issue myself though a simple Valvetronic recalibration that took five minutes and cost nothing, and how could I ever trust this dealership again in the future? He was less than sympathetic or apologetic, saying they followed BMW procedure.

The code has still not returned and engine runs as strong as ever. I still shudder to think I almost authorized a $6000 repair that was not needed.
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      10-20-2022, 12:29 AM   #6
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What BMW scan tool did you use? I have a friend with the same problem, thinking about getting a Fox well. Thanks
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      10-20-2022, 06:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piotrek4000 View Post
What BMW scan tool did you use? I have a friend with the same problem, thinking about getting a Fox well. Thanks
I have the Autophix 7910, bought it from Amazon.

AUTOPHIX BMW Diagnostic Scanner... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTJYLQ8...p_mob_ap_share
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      11-01-2022, 04:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtBMW73 View Post
I have the Autophix 7910, bought it from Amazon.

AUTOPHIX BMW Diagnostic Scanner... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTJYLQ8...p_mob_ap_share
Hey having the same problems and code no cel and I just so happens to have that same scan tool can u tell me the steps to doing it or what area on the scanner should I start at?
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      11-01-2022, 10:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sippiboy03 View Post
Hey having the same problems and code no cel and I just so happens to have that same scan tool can u tell me the steps to doing it or what area on the scanner should I start at?
Honestly it was almost three years ago so I don't remember the exact steps. But if I recall correctly it was identified in the user manual. Have you poked around in the menus on the scan tool?

FWIW the issue has not resurfaced since I did the recalibration three years ago.
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