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      06-04-2018, 07:27 PM   #1
jandref321
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E70 X5M Transmission Service DIY

Gents,

My truck was getting up to 70k miles and I still hadn’t done the tranny oil change that the PO recommended to be done at 60k miles…sorry Kimo. I have had everything sitting in my garage for a while, but never had the time. I finally went for it shorty after I found this awesome DIY video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCvmdo1bLLw

NOTES: I messed this up in a couple of ways. The transmission gasket kit I ordered based on realoem part numbers was incorrect. The gasket kit came with a paper gasket instead of metal and rubber and also didn’t have new magnet clips so I had to use the old gasket and just clean the old magnets. Also, the video DIY makes the initial fluid fill seem easy, I had to fill again once I found that the transmission would not shift. Make sure that you point the tube toward the front of the vehicle while filling to ensure the fluid goes inside. If you aren’t shifting out of park it is likely because you do not have enough fluid in the transmission. Additionally, make sure that you follow the video warning about the shift indicator lever and make sure you are careful when installing the new mechatronics sleeve and reconnecting the plug. I was in a rush and ended up bending some plugs and had to drop the unit to straighten them:



PARTS:

NOTE: DISREGARD THE MUD FLAPS, JACK PADS, AND T-CASE FLUID; THE TRANSMISSION GASKET KIT LISTED ON THIS IMAGE IS NOT CORRECT FOR THE X5M. THE KIT COMES WITH A PAPER GASKET; THE X5M REQUIRES A METAL AND RUBBER GASKET. THE KIT ALSO DOES NOT COME WITH NEW MAGNET CLIPS.
UPDATE: I replaced my original image list of parts with this list that includes the X5M Rubber and metal gasket.

24347588725
SEALING SLEEVE (Mechatronics Unit Sleeve)

24347571211
Adapter (Bridge Seal)

24107519314
SEALING SLEEVE (x2 Small Tube)

24107519315
SEALING SLEEVE (x1 Medium Tube)

24107520715
SEALING SLEEVE (x1 Long Tube)

24117588753
Gasket, oil pan

24152333899
Filter

24117552108
Torx screw (x21 Primary Pan Bolt)

ATF Lifeguard 6 Automatic Tranny Fluid (x7)

TOOLS:

Torque wrench
¼” Rachet
3/8 Ratchet
8mm Socket
8mm Allen
5mm Allen
T40 Torx Bit
Pick
Needle nose pliers
Prybar/Large Flathead Screwdriver
Sand Paper
IR thermometer

E70 X5M TRANSMISSION SERVICE DIY

STEP 1: SAFELY LIFT VEHICLE


STEP 2: DRAIN TRANSMISSION FLUID

a. Remove small aluminum reflector shield from front of transmission using 8mm socket

b. Loosen Fill Plug using 8mm allen key



c. Remove Drain Plug using 5mm allen key



d. Drain Fluid


e. Replace drain plug using 5mm allen key



STEP 3: REMOVE TRANSMISSION PAN AND FILTER

a. Unbolt Tranny Pan using T40 torx bit (back to front)




b. Drain Pan (Let it hang from one bolt on the front passenger side)


c. Lower Pan


d. Remove Filter




e. Clean or replace oil pan magnets



STEP 4: LOWER MECHATRONICS UNIT

a. Rotate mechatronics unit plug to remove counterclockwise/up (try by hand first then use Prybar if that fails)


b. Pull down on white clip


c. Remove Mechatronics unit seal (Prybar or large flathead screwdriver)



d. Ubolt larger flat bolts from mechatronic unit using T40 torx bit (13 total)



e. Lower mechatronics unit carefully (This thing is heavy)


f. Let Tranny Drain


STEP 5: REPLACE SEALS

a. Remove Bridge Seal


b. Remove Rubber tubes (use pick and needle nose pliers)


c. Wipe down transmission and mechatronics unit, lightly sand any imperfections in the transmission oil pan seating lip

d. Install new Bridge Seal


e. Install New Tubes



STEP 6: REINSTALL MECHATRONICS UNIT AND TRANSMISSION OIL PAN

a. Align and set shift indicator lever using bolt



b. Carefully Raise mechatronics unit (Ensure Shift lever lines up)


c. Rebolt Mechatronics (6ftlbs; seat back and forth 1 and 4 then hand tighten the rest and follow torque pattern)




d. Release the shift indicator lever bolt to original position

e. Install new mechatronics sleeve, align notch down and pop into place(Be very careful, a little resistance is okay, a lot of resistance is not)


f. Lock white sleeve clip


g. Reconnect mechatronics connecter and lock into place

h. Lube oil filter o-ring

i. Install filter

j. Raise pan with new gasket

k. Hand tighten transmission oil pan bolts

l. Torque bolts (7.5 ft lbs) Criss cross pattern from the middle like a wheel

m. Ensure oil pan drain bolt is 8Nm max


STEP 7: FILL TRANSMISSION

a. Remove fill bolt

b. Fill with fluid pointing the tube toward the front of the vehicle to ensure the fluid goes inside (use pump, should get 3.5-4.5 liters of fluid in)


This picture is WRONG, point it toward the front of the car not toward the back:


c. Replace fill plug once the oil starts leaking back out in a steady stream

STEP 8: CYCLE FLUID, FINAL FILL, TEST DRIVE

a. Start the vehicle

b. Put into drive (10 sec)

c. Put into manual 1 (10Sec) I could only get the truck to go into P, 1, R. I drove around at slower speeds to get fluid in the other gears then lifted it again.

d. Put into manual 2 (10Sec)

e. Put into manual 3 (10Sec)

f. Put into Reverse (10Sec)

g. Put into Park

h. Let it warm up to 86 to 122 degrees using IR thermometer

i. Keep Car running

j. Remove fill plug

k. Final fill until dripping

l. Replace Fill Bolt (Wrist tight)

m. Clean up

n. Test Drive
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Last edited by jandref321; 07-01-2018 at 06:42 PM.. Reason: Add photos
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      06-04-2018, 10:21 PM   #2
philly42
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Great write-up! I need to get this done asap...I'm much more overdue than you were.
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      06-05-2018, 05:16 AM   #3
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Thanks for sharing.

I'll be doing mine soon and this will be a great reference.

You measured the temp on the pan before final fill?
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      06-05-2018, 08:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecadman99 View Post
Thanks for sharing.

I'll be doing mine soon and this will be a great reference.

You measured the temp on the pan before final fill?
The DIY video said that he couldn't measure using INPA so I decided to use the pan to measure, which is easier for the M models since we have metal pans instead of the plastic ones on other models.

I actually messed this up too. I forgot my IR thermometer at home and the shop didn't have one so I just waited 15-20 min, did my shifts, drove around shifting into third and fourth then did the final fill. I used up all 7 liters and the fluid wasn't leaking out. I did lose some fluid in the filling process and my initial fill and dump mistake made me think maybe I flushed all 7 liters of fluid from the tranny (no I didn't measure how much came out). The shop was closing so I closed it up and drove home carefully while the wife ran to BMW before it closed and bought more fluid. When we drove back to the shop the next day and pulled the fill plug out fluid came pouring out. Turned out I overfilled it since the vehicle wasn't up to temp. Driving it back the next morning warmed up the fluid to proper operating temp.

Definitely use the IR thermometer to confirm that the fluid is up to temp.
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      06-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #5
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I'll check soon if ISTA / Rheingold reads the temp.
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      06-05-2018, 01:29 PM   #6
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Another awesome DIY. I'm definitely gonna need to do this very soon. Thanks for your effort & keep 'em coming!

Last edited by Kraftwerk AG; 06-12-2018 at 02:34 PM.. Reason: :
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      06-05-2018, 09:42 PM   #7
philly42
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You can find the temperature in the transmission control module.
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      06-10-2018, 04:40 AM   #8
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Excellent DIY. Thanks for posting this up.
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      06-12-2018, 11:57 AM   #9
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It seems that fcp euro has the wrong pan gasket as well.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...6z-24152333899

I'll order the pan gasket from the dealer (part 24117588753)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=24_1084
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      06-29-2018, 08:54 PM   #10
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I added the torque sequence for the mechatronics unit
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      06-30-2018, 08:14 AM   #11
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The paper pan gasket is from bmw and is the same as on realoem and the dealer here shows the same thing. Are we sure it's better to get the metal gasket? Thank you.
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      07-01-2018, 06:34 PM   #12
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PN: 24117588753

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/24117588753/

This is the rubber and metal one for the X5M
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      07-09-2018, 09:58 PM   #13
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Awesome! but a few questions, why?

As I have built a few transmissions along the way a have a few questions.

Can someone tell me the purpose of dropping the valve body and replacing all these seals? I would assume that this is stated in the BMW procedure somewhere? These transmissions are build in clean rooms. Likely you could just introduce debris into the non-filter side of the transmission. Do the seals degrade? If so is there data to suggest this? The XM having a ZF 6HP26S, a heavy duty version of a 6HP with a metal pan

ZF's procedure is here. why go beyond?:
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      07-10-2018, 08:07 AM   #14
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The decision tree might be helpful to some.
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File Type: pdf si-zf-si-oelwechselkit-50145-en.pdf (2.58 MB, 1007 views)
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      07-10-2018, 08:38 PM   #15
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The decision tree suggest to change the fluid and filter or replace the transmission.

That said, this answers my question, even more in the comments. http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738


Here's the ZF factory PDF:
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File Type: pdf ZF.Trans.Mechtronics.pdf (511.7 KB, 1082 views)
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      07-11-2018, 01:14 AM   #16
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The BMW trans filter kit:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=24_1372

Does not come with any Mechatronic bridge seal etc BUT its a good idea to change it once while your in there. On the other hand a few people have told me not to mess with it unless its leaking and to only do the Trans service with the above kit (but using the steal gasket 24117588753).
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      07-11-2018, 09:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrescottX5M View Post
The decision tree suggest to change the fluid and filter or replace the transmission.

That said, this answers my question, even more in the comments. http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738


Here's the ZF factory PDF:
That site has good info, thanks. I'm not sure if the seals are common for failure. I think most feel that if they have easy access to it why not replace it especially since there are procedures to do so.

It may not be necessary to replace those items. Though most DIY like to replace rubber components and gaskets if they're planning to keep the car long-term. If I was paying a shop for the fluid replace, I would have them only replace the filter.
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      07-11-2018, 09:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philly42 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrescottX5M View Post
The decision tree suggest to change the fluid and filter or replace the transmission.

That said, this answers my question, even more in the comments. http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738


Here's the ZF factory PDF:
That site has good info, thanks. I'm not sure if the seals are common for failure. I think most feel that if they have easy access to it why not replace it especially since there are procedures to do so.

It may not be necessary to replace those items. Though most DIY like to replace rubber components and gaskets if they're planning to keep the car long-term. If I was paying a shop for the fluid replace, I would have them only replace the filter.
With the extreme heat we have here I would definitely replace the seals. I'll be doing this as soon as I get some other things done, basically mods lol
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      07-11-2018, 08:41 PM   #19
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Good thread with excellent info! Thinking of doing this as well, anyone see an improvement in shifting or tranny function/performance from changing the fluid/filter?
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      07-20-2018, 11:02 PM   #20
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At what point does this become a lost cause mileage wise? I just bought mine and now has 114k with no records to show it's previously been done. Would it be safer to leave as is or risk it with the mileage and change it? What do these transmissions usually cost?
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      07-23-2018, 08:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpig12354 View Post
At what point does this become a lost cause mileage wise? I just bought mine and now has 114k with no records to show it's previously been done. Would it be safer to leave as is or risk it with the mileage and change it? What do these transmissions usually cost?
OHHH...that is a sketchy question. I'd do a whole bunch of research and decide for yourself. Many legit transmission people will say that swapping everything over 100k miles is dangerous because the clutch particles will be removed and reduce the friction on the plates and cause slipping of the transmission..."if it ain't broke don't fix it." Others say it's okay to just swap the fluid or swap fluid and filter...definitely don't do a flush. The question is likely to start many arguments. I'm surprised no one has chimed in yet.
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      09-23-2018, 07:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
OHHH...that is a sketchy question. I'd do a whole bunch of research and decide for yourself. Many legit transmission people will say that swapping everything over 100k miles is dangerous because the clutch particles will be removed and reduce the friction on the plates and cause slipping of the transmission..."if it ain't broke don't fix it." Others say it's okay to just swap the fluid or swap fluid and filter...definitely don't do a flush. The question is likely to start many arguments. I'm surprised no one has chimed in yet.
Yeah you are right on that as i hear the same things.

Since im at 48,320km I will be doing this at 50k kms and replacing all the parts as you replaced. Thanks again for your DIY. I'll post pics in my build thread once i get around to creating one. Cheers.
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