[E90NJ]

Im looking at buying a 330i with 118,XXX miles on it. It is the only black/black with 6mt, sport, and premium packages I can find in good condition. Can anyone tell me if they've had any reliability issues with their 330? Thanks guys.

[MrN1ceGuy]

I got mine last Oct with 97k, 6MT sport and premium with idrive.
This is my first german, and it has been more reliable than what I was told.
Very good build quality.

At about 100k, i have replaced:

engine oil and filter,
transmission and diff oil,
spark plugs, engine air filter and cabin air filter,
oil filter housing gasket
idler pulley, belt tensioner and serpentine belt
rubber molding on the front windshield.

All these are basic maintenance item and I am saving up for when the water pump/thermostat decided to take a shit.

So far, it's a solid car and never given me any major issues.
It is definitely a blast to drive, and well worth the higher operating cost.

[xquisit]

Solid vehicle.

I wouldn't see an issue with a n52 engine at that mileage, but it depends on which price you're getting the vehicle for and how it's been maintained be it's previous owners.

[dbond]

N52 engine in 330i is one of the least problematic engines. You are likely looking at the following items if not already done:

transmission and diff oil,
spark plugs,
oil filter housing gasket,
water pump/thermostat,
oil pan gasket

it looks like a lot check N54 (335i) list

[asus389]

I had a 2006 325i for 6 years. I drove it from 30k to 105k. At that high mileage I'd look at all of the gaskets to make sure they aren't leaking. Also, suspension components tend to wear out. But honestly, I didn't have too many problems with the 325i. Great car.

[GoRomeo]

Im at 125k miles and so far the only major issue has been the water pump and thermostat. Yeah supension feels a bit funky now. Need new shocks. Other than that just basic maintenance. Ah VCG too still need to replaced. No big deal... Other than that i still enjoy driving my 330 like when new after 9 yrs.

[Luismpr]

Stay on top of oil changes, you'd be amazed at how less prone to leaking gaskets are when you change the fluid more regular, same thing with lines. I'm a big believer of 5k oil changes. Leaky valve cover gaskets, oil filter housing gaskets, water pump/thermostat, and thrust arms are the most common things seen on n52s. On the top front of the valve cover there's a sensor( eccentric shaft sensor ) which has a seal around it. Over time this seal can deteriorate, causing oil to get into the sensor, which could cause the sensor to short out and fry the sensor.

Of course these are all things that are maintenance related but as far as reliability, they're pretty solid motors. Good luck and hope you find a good example of an e90.there's many neglected ones out there that give BMW a bad name as far as reliability goes.

[E90 87ss]

100k miles, tracked the car a few times, drove it relatively hard, 1 relatively bad accident...

Before I traded it, it did develop a constant ticking, not the temporary one people complain about...

Replaced:
1) Starter
2) Battery
3) Rear Diff
4) 02 Sensors
5) Trim Pieces for peeling
6) Lifters replaced for ticking
7) Valve Gasket Replaced
8) Door Lock Actuators
9) Driver Side Window Switch
10) Control Arm Bushings

Still drove really well, but was just too slow in my opinion. When you push 100k on a somewhat older car you will definitely need to set aside some money for repairs or general maintenance. But overall very reliable, never really died on me.

[E90NJ]

Originally Posted by xquisit

Solid vehicle.

I wouldn't see an issue with a n52 engine at that mileage, but it depends on which price you're getting the vehicle for and how it's been maintained be it's previous owners.

From the looks of it, it looks like a solid vehicle. Two previous owners, all the physical service records were kept and are included. It also has a clean Carfax, but that's never 100% certain.

[Efthreeoh]

OP I'll chime in. I just passed 290,000 miles on my '06 325i. I do all my on maintenance and repairs. I've got a thread on reaching 200K then a 260K update with a lot of detail regarding maintenance and repair, so you can read those threads for what it's worth. Until recently I dove it 800 miles a week (160 miles a day) and I drive my car hard, so my mileage is not pure highway cruising (only about 30%) and it sees heavy stop and go traffic and hammering back roads every day I drive it. I'm highly confident I'll hit 300K with it sometime early next year. It pretty much still runs like a clock.

The N52, especially with the magnesium valve cover (only on the '06 N52 325i and 330i versions have it), is as reliable as a rock. The difference between the 325i and 330i is the 3-stage intake. If there is any difference in reliability between the two it's the DISA valves and cats in the 330i. the DISA valves have been known to lose the butterfly valve axles, which get ingested by the engine and can eat a cylinder (E46s had this issue too). Other than that, the engines are virtually identical. You'll probably lose the water pump (unless it's been done already) and I'd bet the t-stat was replaced already (look for a brown plastic bodied t-stat vs. the original aluminum one). If it were me, I'd change out the DISA valves with new ones some time before 150,000.

The common failures of the N52 are the WP and t-stat, coils (I lost my first one at 287K ), and OFHG. Some engines came up with broken valve cover bolts (rare) and broken head bolts (outside of the valve cover and easily replaceable- but even rarer). By 118K and 10 years, if these things haven't happened by now, they probably won't. My VCG is as dry as the day I took delivery from the dealer in May 2006. The engine will eventually leak at the oil pan and probably the rear crank seal (but most all cars regardless of manufacturer do this eventually). Leaking gaskets have nothing to do with oil change frequency. Gaskets leak simply because of design, mileage (heat cycles) and age. Other than the WP and t-stat the cooling system is rock solid - I replaced my coolant hoses (all 9 of them) at 236K and they really didn't need it. I'm on my original radiator and coolant tank.

I've followed BMWs maintenance schedule pretty much to the T. My OCI average is now 14,500 miles, down from 17,500 miles from 0 to 221,000. I've done the driveline juices about every 100,000 miles.

At 118K, if the car wasn't abused, you've got an easy 100,000 miles left in it, if not a 150,000. The interiors hold up well with age IMO too. Keep in mind BMWs are not Japanese-level reliability (many non-BMW owners getting into one from Japanese car freak out about stuff breaking), so if that's what you are are expecting then don't get a BMW. But as far as the E90 330i goes it's way above the reliability of many other BMW models. The E30 is known as one of the most reliable BMWs ever (I owned one for 18 years and 256K) and my E90 I think is even more reliable and less maintenance intensive FWIW.

My 2 cents.

[forumreader35]

Have a 330i and I'm at 140K. 6MT. Bought it at 86K. Over the past 3 years I've replaced brake rotors and pads, bearings front and rear, OFHG, VCG, plugs and coils, rear shocks, front lower control arm bushings. Not all needed right away but a little before I expect to need it. I want to take it to 200K or more if it makes sense. Bearings were starting to howl around 100k so they had to be replaced, front myself as Rwd and front is a one piece hub but rear was done at an indy near by. I commute about 60 miles daily which is about 85% highway. There was some seepage with the gaskets but not anything that could have waited longer, those were done around 120K. I love driving it and think it has plenty of power - highest output NA 3 series I6 (other than euro version or some Ms I'm sure), such a beautiful sound up the rpms. As free revving non-rotary car as I've driven.

[arlovarri]

I have one at 110k now and agree with all the above. Many of the maintenance and repairs described are fairly easy to DIY. Only the water pump costs more than a typical car but it's probably a one time thing. I also change oil at 5k and it only burns .25 qt or less in that time. synthetic is cheap at big box stores. for the level of performance and the solid quality feel of the car it's a huge bargain. do take a flashlight and look all around for oil on the engine block. right side would be valve cover, front or left side would be OFHG or perhaps the infamous external "head bolt" that sometimes breaks. if it's oily factor those repairs into the price. when I was shopping many sellers were asking quite a premium for manual cars, and with the sport package it is desirable to enthusiasts so don't let it pass if those features are important to you. sport definitely feels different from the base car. enjoy.

[lookalikehuuh]

I'm at 158k miles now. This is the list of the issues and cost to repair. All done by me so far.

Front door lock actuators: $100.00
Spark Plugs: $60.00
Both rear windows regulators: $75.00 Each
1 rear door would not open. Free repair just had to re-oil the actuator so just my time.
Alternator: $350.00
Starter: $150.00
Oil pan gasket: actually i been too lazy to fix this one.... will prob have indy do it cause its a big job. And I'm a lazy ass prob ~$800
Valve cover gasket: $50parts + lots of my personal time.
Oil changes: ~$50 every 5-7.5k miles

[VTECaddict]

120k here. It's been pretty reliable IMO, considering the horror stories you always hear about German car maintenance. If you're a DIY type, then a lot of repairs are pretty easy and straightforward. It's mostly the labor charges that get you with repairs and maintenance.

So far the only unplanned failures/repairs have been:
cracked valve cover bolts (there was a service bulletin/covered under CPO)
thermostat (happened under CPO warranty)
water pump (paid dealer)
front door lock actuator (DIY)
a couple ignition coil replacements (DIY)

Then just regular/preventative maintenance:
oil changes every ~7500k mi
spark plugs at 90k
tensioner/idler pulley/accessory belt at 115k (nothing was wrong with the old parts)
trans and diff fluid changes every 45k
I'm also on my 3rd battery

I noticed the oil pan gasket is starting to seep oil on mine. I wouldn't call it a "leak" yet and my oil level has been stable between oil changes still. So that's in the back of my mind but I'm in no hurry to get it fixed.