X5M Boost Leak Problems

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Thanks, I popped the code again yesterday. I went home and tried the pressure test again and it was leaking at the same spot. I'm not really sure how to fix this. I just rerouted the pipe to the correct location and popped it back on then zip tied it. The pipe is new so it's not like it's worn out. Everything should stay clipped on perfectly. If it doesn't stay on today then I'm not really sure how to proceed...maybe a silicon hose with hose clamp. Maybe it's a intake manifold issue.

An old school way to fix things like that would be to spray it with some hairspray, then pop it on.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

An old school way to fix things like that would be to spray it with some hairspray, then pop it on.

Need some help guys...Which of these clips are connected to your filtered air duct (up high by the oil fill) and which is connected to your intake manifold down low by the motor mount.


Realoem shows (A) being connected to the filtered air duct and (B) being connected to the intake manifold. I have it the other way around and I wanted to see what you guys had. When I replaced the hose I installed it the way it was before replacing it. The hose, however keeps popping up from the manifold and leaking. It did it again today. This is a picture of the hose by the oil fill cap:

[9vapors]

Here's mine... let me know if you need anymore pics!

[protecon]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Need some help guys...Which of these clips are connected to your filtered air duct (up high by the oil fill) and which is connected to your intake manifold down low by the motor mount.


Realoem shows (A) being connected to the filtered air duct and (B) being connected to the intake manifold. I have it the other way around and I wanted to see what you guys had. When I replaced the hose I installed it the way it was before replacing it. The hose, however keeps popping up from the manifold and leaking. It did it again today. This is a picture of the hose by the oil fill cap:

It's installed the wrong way around.

As per 9vapour's picture, the hoses have two types of retention clips - you can clearly see where the clip is meant to orient/attach in your picture, but has the wrong clip on the hose end.

[jandref321]

Thanks guys. I took some time this morning to swap it around and everything fit up super snug. Before the clip had lots of play at the intake manifold but now it made a loud snap when it clicked into place and has a very snug fit. I won't get a chance to test drive it until this evening, but I'll let you guys know ASAP. Here is a pic of the correct attachment with the quad clips connecting at the filtered air duct:

[jandref321]

I left for work early and tested it out. Did not fix the code, but I was able to get over 14 PSI this time. I'll try another pressure test this evening on both sides. The code is still showing upstream bank 1 pressure but my driver side hose is upside down also so I'll check that.

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by jandref321

I left for work early and tested it out. Did not fix the code, but I was able to get over 14 PSI this time. I'll try another pressure test this evening on both sides. The code is still showing upstream bank 1 pressure but my driver side hose is upside down also so I'll check that.

Updates?

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

Updates?

I tried the pressure test on both sides. I’m using a hand pump with one way valve but not building over 2 psi on either side. I found that my driver side air duct was leaking at the duct-to-turbo point and just had to adjust some stuff for a clean fit. Since that is pre-turbo I’m gonna count that out as the culprit. I finally got a shop to call me back and taking it in on Tuesday for a proper pressure test and diagnostic. Hopefully they can figure it out.

[cncmastr]

This is like a murder mystery... good luck bother!

[Autobacs]

Good Luck. I know the feeling of exasperation when performance issues like this come up. Fingers crossed!

[jandref321]

She went into the shop today. Pretty frustrating. They have taken the position that I'm an idiot and have messed up my car by doing my own maintenance. So they are spending all day today going over all the connections and doing everything I've already done to test it before they move onto a pressure test and smoke test. I will have to leave the car with them until they figure it out...hopefully they find it quick and it's not something major.

[do_0b]

Originally Posted by jandref321

She went into the shop today. Pretty frustrating. They have taken the position that I'm an idiot and have messed up my car by doing my own maintenance. So they are spending all day today going over all the connections and doing everything I've already done to test it before they move onto a pressure test and smoke test. I will have to leave the car with them until they figure it out...hopefully they find it quick and it's not something major.

keep us updated...good luck...hopefully its something minor

[Autobacs]

any update good or bad?

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by Autobacs

any update good or bad?

I finally heard back from the shop a few minutes ago and they believe the issue was the diverter valves. They installed two shims (just washers) to extend the DV+ piston and make it seat better inside the charge pipes. When they ran the car it gave them an overboost code instead of a leak code. They removed one shim, leaving one inside, and ran it again 60-105 and got no codes.


I'm happy the truck is running solid, and will pick her up tomorrow...but...

I don't think anything is actually fixed. Here is why:

1) The Stock diverter valves held fine against the Velos Stage 2+ tune (The only thing I'm running right now).
2) The brand new, unaltered, stock diverter valves in the brand new charge pipes still threw a code and did not build boost quickly.
3) The DV+ helped hold boost better and build it up until throwing the code.

This makes me think that it may be some software issue where the computer is opening the DVs and causing a loss of boost. The code comes on later because of the design of the DV+ holding boost even when the DV solenoids are activated. Adding the Shim essentially forces the DVs to stay closed and thus eliminating the symptom but not the cause. If it were the stock DVs then the code would still be there, period...I'll have to see tomorrow when I pick her up anyway.

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by jandref321

I finally heard back from the shop a few minutes ago and they believe the issue was the diverter valves. They installed two shims (just washers) to extend the DV+ piston and make it seat better inside the charge pipes. When they ran the car it gave them an overboost code instead of a leak code. They removed one shim, leaving one inside, and ran it again 60-105 and got no codes.


I'm happy the truck is running solid, and will pick her up tomorrow...but...

I don't think anything is actually fixed. Here is why:

1) The Stock diverter valves held fine against the Velos Stage 2+ tune (The only thing I'm running right now).
2) The brand new, unaltered, stock diverter valves in the brand new charge pipes still threw a code and did not build boost quickly.
3) The DV+ helped hold boost better and build it up until throwing the code.

This makes me think that it may be some software issue where the computer is opening the DVs and causing a loss of boost. The code comes on later because of the design of the DV+ holding boost even when the DV solenoids are activated. Adding the Shim essentially forces the DVs to stay closed and thus eliminating the symptom but not the cause. If it were the stock DVs then the code would still be there, period...I'll have to see tomorrow when I pick her up anyway.

Why didn't they just replace them and see that it didn't fix them? More of a bandaid than anything... yeah they got the code to go away, but didn't fix it.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

Why didn't they just replace them and see that it didn't fix them? More of a bandaid than anything... yeah they got the code to go away, but didn't fix it.

The DVs were already replaced since they came with the new charge pipe I installed. I still got the codes with the new stuff installed so I just said WTH and reinstalled the DV+. It is very noticeable how much better the DV+ holds boost which is why I reinstalled. When I first spoke with the shop they said they would run a pressure test, but after bringing the truck in they said a pressure test would be too difficult. They instead focused on inspecting everything to look for possible leaks. They found a clamp that they said was broken, even though it was brand new and I inspected all of the clamps before bringing it into the shop. They replaced that clamp and then went onto the DVs.

If I’m really not getting codes anymore because of the shim they installed then either the new clamp was the fix or the DV actuation is the problem and I’ll need to take it to a better shop to look at coding. I’ll run a few tests when I get her home and may end up just buying the stuff to do my own pressure test if the problem isn’t really gone. I pick her up in a couple hours

[m5james]

Holy crap, I haven't REALLY been active on the forums on a while and I miss stuff like this!! I'm glad it's working out for you. I haven't installed my DV+'s yet but that's good info about the washer since I'll need to do that to mine as well.

[jandref321]

The truck isn't fixed at all. I picked her up and the shop owner smugly explained that the DVs didn't fit properly and told me that I should be more careful when doing maintenance myself since I don't know what I'm doing. I paid the man, the hopped in the car and got on the highway. Once I got up to temp I did a couple runs, but the truck felt slow and laggy...I wasn't getting more than 13.5 psi. I turned on the JB4 and got up to 16.1 PSI with no codes, burning rubber in each gear. Awesome, I thought. I went to do one final run and popped a code:

29E2:Fuel injection bar pressure sensor signal
Condition safety fuel cut (SKA): 0.00 0/1
Ignition cylinder 1: 5.00 °CRK
lambda Setpoint: 1.83 -
Resistor Lambda probe before catalytic converter Bank 2 High Byte: 256.00 ohm

I took it back to the shop and my fan was running full blast. The coolant was low temp at 150 F and the oil dropped from 205ish to the dot between 125 and 210. Major cooling for some reason. We turned it off and on again and it ran normally. I checked the codes and all of these boost leak codes were stored, even a new one: 30FC. The guy said he would check with his scanner since it's better...he couldn't even read the codes because its a normal scanner and can't read BMW specific codes.

He told me that my scanner was wrong and that the fuel injection bar code was probably because the engine was running for so long with a leak that now it has to take time to adjust to all the air it's getting. I said whatever and went on my way.

I got 310b codes twice on my way home. After looking through all the codes it appears that they:

1) Didn't erase anything
2) Mistook a 30FC boost leak code to be a overboost code

I am very disappointed...back at square one with less money and days wasted.

[philly42]

Do you have a local shop that have ISTA/Rheingold? The program should shed a lot more light on what's going on.

[frankenm]

I'm still convinced something is just wrong with the ECU's and they trigger errors/malfunctions incorrectly or have a failsafe that isn't triggering any warnings or codes, I've been chasing an engine malfunction for almost 3 years now that I can't solve, I know it is a boost issue since it happens whenever I hit to much boost but haven't been able to figure it out and torn the truck apart a number of times and given these are first-gen models it wouldn't be surprising.

Too bad about that shop, doesn't sound like they knew what they were doing since they can't figure out how to properly pressure test?

I'm hoping to solve this with my tuning but that is still at least 6 months away minimum ...

Sorry this probably isn't helpful just don't give up!

[m5james]

Originally Posted by philly42

Do you have a local shop that have ISTA/Rheingold? The program should shed a lot more light on what's going on.

I've got those programs and unless I'm using them wrong, they don't really help pin point things at all...it's still a crap shoot. I've sent screenshots of upwards of 40 codes for my transmission & diff to various shops and a few buddies, all of which take guesses in the wind as to what's going on and what I should buy next.

[jandref321]

Small update:

I grabbed some stuff to do a proper pressure test with a air compressor. I found a leak in the CCV recirculation hose running into the filtered air duct on the driver's side (A) which I replaced with silicon hose and some clamps. I also found a small hole in my new intake elbow...which I now have replaced with the old elbow lol. Those are both pre turbo so shouldn't be the issue anyway. Otherwise, I pressurized the system on both sides up to 12 psi and it held with no leaks. I think the only thing left for me to do is replace the other hose that BMW installed upside down (B). I'll also delete the vacuum T heading to the exhaust again since I haven't done that in a while and do a couple runs.