Charging Issue E70 X5 Alternator or IBS?

[gentooguy]

I'll try to make this as brief as possible. One night while on my way home slowed down to make a turn to my house and all electronics started going haywire. Christmas tree lights and warnings came up on the dash. I pulled into my driveway but could not put the car in reverse due to transmission malfunction. Battery was about 3-4 years old so I replaced it with one from advance auto parts. All was fine with the car for about a week until I noticed alerts on the dash about high battery discharge. Car would still start but I had to reset clock, etc.. I observed that the voltage when starting the car would be 13 or 14 volts but then after about 2 minutes of driving it would fluctuate between 11-12 volts. Most of the time being at 11.5 volts which clearly indicates the car was undercharging the battery. When to advance auto where I purchased the battery they had me do a sequence of events to test the battery, starter & alternator of course all checks came back fine. During the test with load on the car voltage was between 14-15 volts. As soon as I turned my car back on and went home voltage was again at 11-12 volts. Was thinking maybe it's the voltage regulator on the alternator going bad but as a test I disconnected the IBS on the negative terminal of my battery and magically everything is stable with the car. Once car is running for a minute voltage remains stable between 14.00 - 14.50 volts. What gives here? Do some 3rd party AGM batteries not play well with BMW's IBS? As a note I did register the battery but I didn't code anything to the car. Battery that was replaced was a 90ah new one is a 95ah. I read about resetting the IBS. How do I do that if necessary?

[oil_burner]

Originally Posted by gentooguy

I'll try to make this as brief as possible. One night while on my way home slowed down to make a turn to my house and all electronics started going haywire. Christmas tree lights and warnings came up on the dash. I pulled into my driveway but could not put the car in reverse due to transmission malfunction. Battery was about 3-4 years old so I replaced it with one from advance auto parts. All was fine with the car for about a week until I noticed alerts on the dash about high battery discharge. Car would still start but I had to reset clock, etc.. I observed that the voltage when starting the car would be 13 or 14 volts but then after about 2 minutes of driving it would fluctuate between 11-12 volts. Most of the time being at 11.5 volts which clearly indicates the car was undercharging the battery. When to advance auto where I purchased the battery they had me do a sequence of events to test the battery, starter & alternator of course all checks came back fine. During the test with load on the car voltage was between 14-15 volts. As soon as I turned my car back on and went home voltage was again at 11-12 volts. Was thinking maybe it's the voltage regulator on the alternator going bad but as a test I disconnected the IBS on the negative terminal of my battery and magically everything is stable with the car. Once car is running for a minute voltage remains stable between 14.00 - 14.50 volts. What gives here? Do some 3rd party AGM batteries not play well with BMW's IBS? As a note I did register the battery but I didn't code anything to the car. Battery that was replaced was a 90ah new one is a 95ah. I read about resetting the IBS. How do I do that if necessary?

Don't you have to reset something in the car's computer to tell it to adjust to the new battery? I believe that's what the dealerships do when they replace the batteries.

[Poppyboy]

OP said he registered it, but then said he didn’t code anything to the car. So, was the battery registered to the car or no?

[gentooguy]

Battery was registered via BavTech Tool. No coding was done. I am going to check what battery was registered before via NCS Expert. The battery I took out was a 90ah the one I put in is 95ah AGM. Not much in the way of coding can be done there anyway. What's interesting is that I decided to plug back in the IBS connector and the car is still behaving normally now. Voltage is between 13.5 & 14 volts while the car is running now (With IBS unplugged seemed more stable at 14 - 14.5 volts). Not sure why voltage was so low before. Crappy IBS not even sure it's needed. I think it's just German over engineering.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by gentooguy

Battery was registered via BavTech Tool. No coding was done. I am going to check what battery was registered before via NCS Expert. The battery I took out was a 90ah the one I put in is 95ah AGM. Not much in the way of coding can be done there anyway. What's interesting is that I decided to plug back in the IBS connector and the car is still behaving normally now. Voltage is between 13.5 & 14 volts while the car is running now (With IBS unplugged seemed more stable at 14 - 14.5 volts). Not sure why voltage was so low before. Crappy IBS not even sure it's needed. I think it's just German over engineering.

There was a recall on the IBS cable. I suggest you either make sure that recall was performed on your truck, or check the part number on your cable and see if it matches the updated part. It sounds to me like your issue is with the IBS cable.

...it's also possible that the new battery is faulty. Not registering the new battery is not going to exhibit the symptoms you're describing. I know you registered yours, this is just FYI for anyone interested and wondering.

[philly42]

Where are you reading the battery voltage...Computer or volt meter at the battery terminals?

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the alternator. Keep in mind even with putting a heavy load on the electrical system (turn on all electric items to max) you should still get 13-14.5 volts.
My issue could've been with the voltage regulator but decided to replace the whole alternator.

[BimmerLad]

If I recall correctly there are seperate parameters in the IBS system for regular lead acid then for AGM batteries.

The advantage of AGM batteries being their ability to withstand much faster charge rates than the old lead acid.

I would recommend ensuring the IBS is coded to the AGM and not still in lead acid mode via NSExpert.

Or disconnect the IBS as a more ghetto solution until you can have a decent indy code I your nice AGM battery.

[dadysev]

It happened to me about a 2 weeks ago. It turned out to be the ground cable from body to engine block. They do rot, and its a common issue with simmers. i measured it with my meter and i was shocked! Really high resistance!
I'm not sure where it was sourcing the ground from for the starter and the alternator being the heavy load culprits.
Added a 1 gauge ground cable and charging was back as well as health starts!
Good luck!

[BimmerLad]

Originally Posted by dadysev

It happened to me about a 2 weeks ago. It turned out to be the ground cable from body to engine block. They do rot, and its a common issue with simmers. i measured it with my meter and i was shocked! Really high resistance!
I'm not sure where it was sourcing the ground from for the starter and the alternator being the heavy load culprits.
Added a 1 gauge ground cable and charging was back as well as health starts!
Good luck!

interesting stuff! what where your symptoms, just slow cold cranking or low voltages also?

[racermp]

Have you changed your coil packs to Delphi?

[TurnOne]

mirob-

There was a recall on the IBS?? I just had mine replaced couple months ago, no mentioning of a recall. I have a '12 50i with a build date in the fall of 2011

[mirob]

Originally Posted by TurnOne

mirob-

There was a recall on the IBS?? I just had mine replaced couple months ago, no mentioning of a recall. I have a '12 50i with a build date in the fall of 2011

Yessir. My build date is in fall of 2010. Maybe the recall didn't affect your model/year or they performed it for the previous owner and didn't want to cover it again (not sure if you bought new). Wouldn't hurt giving the dealer a call and asking some questions. Is your vehicle affected, why it wasn't performed, if you're eligible for a refund, etc...either way it's worth a few minutes on the phone to set your mind at ease...

Did a quick search on the internet, not finding anything affecting X5s. Now I'm wondering if they did it our of good will...but that doesn't sound like my dealer...

[greg328]

Originally Posted by dadysev

It happened to me about a 2 weeks ago. It turned out to be the ground cable from body to engine block. They do rot, and its a common issue with simmers. i measured it with my meter and i was shocked! Really high resistance!
I'm not sure where it was sourcing the ground from for the starter and the alternator being the heavy load culprits.
Added a 1 gauge ground cable and charging was back as well as health starts!
Good luck!

Can you tell us where this ground cable is exactly? I have a 2011 X5 E70 with similar wacky behavior.

TIA,
Greg

[Swayze]

Originally Posted by racermp

Have you changed your coil packs to Delphi?

Are the coil packs going to cause a charging issue?

I’ve had the same issue for about six months. New battery, new alt(it worked good for two months after), disconnected ibs...problem still randomly occurs. If I put it on charge every couple days it seems to work good. Weird/intermittent problem.
Does anyone know where to get a wiring schematic?

[racermp]

Originally Posted by Swayze

Are the coil packs going to cause a charging issue?

I’ve had the same issue for about six months. New battery, new alt(it worked good for two months after), disconnected ibs...problem still randomly occurs. If I put it on charge every couple days it seems to work good. Weird/intermittent problem.
Does anyone know where to get a wiring schematic?

Yea look up my other thread where I had the same issue
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1428829

[Swayze]

Wow, that’s an interesting read. I have not changed them but I haven’t owned the vehicle all that long. I guess I’m checking my coil packs tomorrow. Thanks racer

[Swayze]

I pulled out the easiest on and it’s Bosch, e70 4.8l. I looked at the tops and they look all the same. I’m going to check all my grounds, is there voltage suppressors for the coils?

[m5james]

Bumping this because I've been getting Christmas tree of lights and trans acting up. I'm inclined to replace the $140 voltage regulator before a $700 alternator...opinions?

Trans was replaced and coded (was having major trans failure issues, slipping, slamming, wouldn't even shift outta gear, etc) and yet still I'll get warnings/failsafe codes errors such as 4x4 and traction control shutting off (which is still happening 3 months before AND 1 month after the trans was replaced), transfer case servo motor inner gear is perfect and motor itself has been bench tested.

Battery has been replaced and coded with an Autozone AGM (twice since I'm still having issues) yet I'll get voltage spikes (see image below) so I'm suspecting it's a voltage regulator and/or whole alternator.

Truck is still driveable, just annoying these keep popping up at least once a day. Last week was very odd in that I got a picture of a gear on the cluster instead of D*, wipers started going on their own and then it reverted back to a normal D symbol on the dash. I also continually get a grocery list of codes whenever the tree lights up:

OBD2:
P12A9 (permanent)

OBD2 - confirmed:
U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus

Transmission:
CF37 - SMG 3

Transmission:
55C3
CF4B
CF07

Traction/stability control:
D34C
6DE6
5DEA
5E63
5F12
5DEA
5F56
D36A

Instrument cluster:
9317
A566

Dynamic management:
6435
D00B - S-CAN-bus communication error
D020 - Steering wheel angle PT-CAN
D021 - ACC failure
D025 - Wheel torque drive train 2
D028 - Seat occupancy detection seat belt contacte

Active roll stabilization:
627A

Parking brake:
601D

Car access system (CAS):
A0B8

Parking sensors:
AB30

Central module (in driver's footwell) (FRM):
A8B6 - Right brake light faulty

Infotainment system:
C519
E1E9

Heads-up display:
A4F3 - CAN Message failure

[Ryan5034]

I had the same thing happen, and I replaced the whole alternator. I am pretty sure I only needed the voltage regulator. But I guess it depends if you want to roll the dice and tear it all apart 2x. It takes about 5-6 hours to replace the alternator. (for me anyway.)