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      12-09-2018, 08:02 PM   #45
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Glad you found a couple leaks, that will help with other issues and getting it running perfect in the long run... (not glad you found them, but you know what I mean...)

When you do the vacuum lines, can you take some pics of which T goes to the rear exhaust valves? I want to delete those in the engine bay as well instead of back by the exhaust.
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      12-10-2018, 09:05 AM   #46
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I went out for dinner with some friends last night and on the way home I popped 2 codes...one was going up hill with zero boost, very weird. The other was when I slammed on the gas on the highway. I finally got INPA installed and pulled the picture below. Compared to the Carly code the INPA seems to indicate that the issue is bank 2 and not bank 1. Am I reading that correctly? Also, shows that the intake manifold pressure was over 17PSI which I never got up to on the JB4 app reading boost. Maybe that is including ambient pressure? Not sure what else to take away from this. Here are the INPA and Carly Codes:




*** 310B:Boost pressure control 2, plausibility ***
Fault-Set 1 - ( 125472 km)

ambient pressure: 795.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 5.25 C
number of revolutions: 2176.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 111.00 kPa

Fault-Set 2 - ( 125504 km)

ambient pressure: 815.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 6.00 C
number of revolutions: 4096.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 146.00 kPa
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      12-10-2018, 09:08 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9vapors View Post
Glad you found a couple leaks, that will help with other issues and getting it running perfect in the long run... (not glad you found them, but you know what I mean...)

When you do the vacuum lines, can you take some pics of which T goes to the rear exhaust valves? I want to delete those in the engine bay as well instead of back by the exhaust.
Here are the pics with it connected and with it disconnected:


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      12-10-2018, 09:11 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
I went out for dinner with some friends last night and on the way home I popped 2 codes...one was going up hill with zero boost, very weird. The other was when I slammed on the gas on the highway. I finally got INPA installed and pulled the picture below. Compared to the Carly code the INPA seems to indicate that the issue is bank 2 and not bank 1. Am I reading that correctly? Also, shows that the intake manifold pressure was over 17PSI which I never got up to on the JB4 app reading boost. Maybe that is including ambient pressure? Not sure what else to take away from this. Here are the INPA and Carly Codes:




*** 310B:Boost pressure control 2, plausibility ***
Fault-Set 1 - ( 125472 km)

ambient pressure: 795.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 5.25 C
number of revolutions: 2176.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 111.00 kPa

Fault-Set 2 - ( 125504 km)

ambient pressure: 815.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 6.00 C
number of revolutions: 4096.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 146.00 kPa
Looks like I only got the freeze frame from the first code with zero boost going up hill slowly and not the highway run. I already deleted the codes
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      12-10-2018, 11:02 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
I went out for dinner with some friends last night and on the way home I popped 2 codes...one was going up hill with zero boost, very weird. The other was when I slammed on the gas on the highway. I finally got INPA installed and pulled the picture below. Compared to the Carly code the INPA seems to indicate that the issue is bank 2 and not bank 1. Am I reading that correctly? Also, shows that the intake manifold pressure was over 17PSI which I never got up to on the JB4 app reading boost. Maybe that is including ambient pressure? Not sure what else to take away from this. Here are the INPA and Carly Codes:

[img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1928/...4f5ff487_b.jpg[/img]


*** 310B:Boost pressure control 2, plausibility ***
Fault-Set 1 - ( 125472 km)

ambient pressure: 795.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 5.25 °C
number of revolutions: 2176.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 111.00 kPa

Fault-Set 2 - ( 125504 km)

ambient pressure: 815.00 hPa
ambient temperature: 6.00 °C
number of revolutions: 4096.00 rpm
Pressure upstream from throttle Bank 1 (Turbo): 146.00 kPa
Looks like I only got the freeze frame from the first code with zero boost going up hill slowly and not the highway run. I already deleted the codes
I can't remember, you scoped the wastegate valves right? Google-fu tells me a couple different possibilities, from the vacuum lines to the canisters to typical vent hose issues... I hate how these engines work with the slightest ass hair out of line, they throw all sorts of codes. I'm about to go through and put zip ties on all of my hoses connected to those stupid canisters. I had one fall off in the back on the right side facing the engine and got the same myriad of codes.

Also, did you ever remove the shims from the DV+? Did you try swapping them back to stock?
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      12-11-2018, 11:27 PM   #50
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jandref321 , I don't think you are pressurizing at the right place, and this getting mislead by crankcase ventilation..

Look at this diagram:


By applying pressure *before* crancase breather, you are pushing a lot of air into crank case. The breather hose that you are reporting as leaking is not meant to hold pressure - in fact opposite. Its function is to suck crankcase gasses when vaccum gets created by turbo compressor sucking both fresh air and some crankcase gasses.

So, the proper way to pressure test the system is to seal off the very turbo entrance and route air through it.

However, that is difficult to do because of the form the turbo is. There's now way to have a clamp go over the compressor entrance like in "normal" turbos.


So, you have to come up with a contraption to introduce pressurized air right into compressor for a proper test.
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      12-11-2018, 11:42 PM   #51
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My X5 diesel has same dilemma with turbo entrance design.
To troubleshoot my boost leak, I made this contraption. Took a couple weeks of trial and error, but got it done in the end.

Works like a charm.

Ruptured boost hose showed itself within 10 seconds after pumping.

Then, was pumping at 40psi into turbo and seeing 25psi before intake manifold (after throttle body). The 15 PSI was getting lost through turbo seals. Normal or not - I was not able to find out. But, 25psi into intake manifold is probably enough.

The contraption: Since there's no boost pressure kit existing for these kind of turbo housings, I was thinking to gauge interest to make a few of these kits.
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      12-12-2018, 07:25 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serge1 View Post
jandref321 , I don't think you are pressurizing at the right place, and this getting mislead by crankcase ventilation..

Look at this diagram:


By applying pressure *before* crancase breather, you are pushing a lot of air into crank case. The breather hose that you are reporting as leaking is not meant to hold pressure - in fact opposite. Its function is to suck crankcase gasses when vaccum gets created by turbo compressor sucking both fresh air and some crankcase gasses.

So, the proper way to pressure test the system is to seal off the very turbo entrance and route air through it.

However, that is difficult to do because of the form the turbo is. There's now way to have a clamp go over the compressor entrance like in "normal" turbos.


So, you have to come up with a contraption to introduce pressurized air right into compressor for a proper test.
Quote:
Originally Posted by serge1 View Post
My X5 diesel has same dilemma with turbo entrance design.
To troubleshoot my boost leak, I made this contraption. Took a couple weeks of trial and error, but got it done in the end.

Works like a charm.

Ruptured boost hose showed itself within 10 seconds after pumping.

Then, was pumping at 40psi into turbo and seeing 25psi before intake manifold (after throttle body). The 15 PSI was getting lost through turbo seals. Normal or not - I was not able to find out. But, 25psi into intake manifold is probably enough.

The contraption: Since there's no boost pressure kit existing for these kind of turbo housings, I was thinking to gauge interest to make a few of these kits.
Thanks guys. I was under the impression that the CCV check valve should eliminate or reduce the possibility of air moving back through the vent system...and if not then perhaps a vacuum leak would present itself. I am very unconcerned about the Charge pipes and DVs since they are new. I may just try pressurizing directly at the intercooler...honestly, the only things that haven't been replaced there are the intercooler to throttle body hoses and the intake manifolds. The intake manifolds hook up to the CCV system also though.


Running straight to the turbos like you said would be very difficult especially because it would require about a 60 degree bend in whatever I use. I'll try pulling off the charge pipes and pressurizing at the intercoolers first.
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      12-12-2018, 02:12 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
The intake manifolds hook up to the CCV system also though.
Not sure what you mean by that. It may look like it, but that cannot be the case, logically. The only pressurized path from a turbo into cylinder is compressor > charge pipe > intercooler > charge pipe > throttle body > intake manifold > cylinder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
Running straight to the turbos like you said would be very difficult especially because it would require about a 60 degree bend in whatever I use. I'll try pulling off the charge pipes and pressurizing at the intercoolers first.
Having new components does not mean they are hooked up correctly and not allowing boost leaks. From the photos, it did not look too difficult to access the turbo compressor entrance and hook up a contraption similar to what I made.
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      12-13-2018, 12:38 AM   #54
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I pressure tested from the intercooler inlet. Bank 2 held pressure well, I went up to 18psi. Bank 1 wont hold pressure at all. It looses everything in a matter of 3-4 seconds. I can hear the leak coming from somewhere between the throttle body and the intake manifold pressure sensor. I tried soapy water and smoke but cant see where. The obvious ones would be the intercooler to throttle body hose or the throttle body gasket. It could be the sensor oring or the intake manifold gasket also. I visually inspected the hose when I removed the intercooler to replace the boost solenoid, but could have missed damage. I double checked that the clamps are tight there also.
Im thinking throttle body gasket.
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      12-13-2018, 12:51 AM   #55
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That is progress as far as finding the culprit. Fingers crossed.
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      12-13-2018, 08:45 AM   #56
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Awesome man, throttle body gasket seems like a cheap part, just getting to it sucks. I hope that's it!
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      12-13-2018, 09:12 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serge1 View Post
Not sure what you mean by that. It may look like it, but that cannot be the case, logically. The only pressurized path from a turbo into cylinder is compressor > charge pipe > intercooler > charge pipe > throttle body > intake manifold > cylinder.
Both the Crankcase Ventilation System and the Fuel Tank Breather Valve Systems are hooked up to the intake manifold. Maybe there are check valves built into the manifold? I'm unsure how this operates.




Quote:
Originally Posted by serge1 View Post
Having new components does not mean they are hooked up correctly and not allowing boost leaks. From the photos, it did not look too difficult to access the turbo compressor entrance and hook up a contraption similar to what I made.
I ended up testing from the intercooler.
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      12-13-2018, 04:07 PM   #58
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I feel your pain....pressure testing the S63 system looks like a total nightmare. Pressure testing each charged air component is the way to go. Though you can only do this up to the throttle body. Anything after that will give you false readings because of the intake valves. Never at any point are all intake valves closed. This is the reason why during walnut blasting, it's necessary to trigger the starter to close the valves in the port that's being cleaned.

As for the CCV line connected to the intake manifold, it does have have a check valve for both banks that are on the driver side. You could remove this piece and seal off the necessary ends and pressure test the check valves.
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