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      09-19-2018, 06:59 PM   #1
jandref321
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E70 X5M Turbocharger Install DIY

Gents,

I was getting some 310B codes under boost and research led me to a failure of my turbo wastegate bushings. I pulled the turbos and had them rebuilt at Turbo Lab America with Austin Cole. The process took a long time due to the lack of available wastegate kits for our turbos. Austin was finally able to utilize two different wastegate valve rebuild kits and weld them together for the final product. At the same time I had the compressor wheels upgraded and the turbine wheels clipped. Here is the link for the turbo removal: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...php?p=23724826

Many Pics:














NOTE: I had to pull the downpipes due to a separate DIY so my steps are different than photos. It was easier to install with the downpipes removed. Another member here mentioned that it is easier to disconnect oil return lines from the engine side instead of turbo side. This is how the manual tells you to uninstall but it is difficult without removing the alternator. If you buy a swivel joint it is entirely possible and will save you some time.

NOTES: I messed up a few things while installing: 1) I was rushing to get the turbo-downpipe v-band screw clamps on and ended up stripping the bolt. I had to cut the bolt off and throw in a new bolt which still stripped but held in place. I ended up buying a new aftermarket clamp but the aftermarket clamp didn’t work because the design was slightly different. After hours of pulling the heat shield off, and attempting to fit the new clamp I had to go back to the old clamp with new bolt. Lesson learned: go slow and buy OEM. 2) I didn’t realize that the electric water pump air bleed procedure required filling from the intercooler expansion tank, not the standard expansion tank. I bled the system several times but still didn’t get water running through the turbos. I got codes for a broken water pump so I replaced it but it still didn’t fix the issue. M5james pointed out where to properly fill and bleed and I got water running but the pump still wasn’t working properly. The final fix was clearing the codes which sent power to the water pump again. 3) The truck is still throwing codes. I got the 30FF, 310B, and 3108 codes back under heavy boost. I decided it was a vacuum line leak and replaced all of the lines with silicone lines. 30FF and 310B codes stopped coming back but the 3108: Charging Pressure Control 2, Leakage is still there. I ordered the boost solenoid for bank 2 (Apparently, it’s a normal wear item for people running JB4 as BMS sells them on their website). If this doesn’t fix the issue then I’ll look at replacing TMAPs with 4BAR ones. If no one noticed before, I’ll mention that the whole reason I had the Turbos rebuilt was the 310B code which went away after replacing the vacuum lines… …No one tell my wife.



DIY: E70 X5M TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION

NOTE: I RECOMMEND THAT ALL MAINTENANCE IS COMPLETED BY A CERTIFIED MECHANIC; This DIY is merely a record of what I did to complete this vehicle maintenance; I DO NOT RECOMMEND COMPLETING THIS YOURSELF.

PARTS:

2 x Exhaust Gasket Ring, Turbo-Downpipe PN: 18307553601
2 x Exhaust Gasket Ring, Manifold-Turbo PN: 11627589088
2 x Gasket, Oil Return PN: 11428624158
4 x Crush Gasket Ring, Oil Feed PN: 07119963072
9 x Crush Gasket Ring, Coolant Feed/Return PN: 07119963201
Hose Clamp Set

TOOLS:

1/4” Drive Ratchet
1/4” Drive Extensions
3/8” Drive Ratchet
3/8” Drive Extensions
3/8” Drive Torque Wrench
7/8” Oxygen Sensor Socket (Cutaway Style; 3/8” Drive)
13mm Socket
14mm Socket
10mm Socket
10mm Deep Socket
8mm Socket
6mm Socket
T25 Torx Bit
T30 Torx Bit
E8 External Torx Bit


STEP 1: INSTALL COOLANT HARD LINES AND DIVERTER VALVE HOSES

a) ENSURE YOU ABSOLUTELY REMOVE THE NEGATIVE WIRE FROM THE BATTERY TERMINAL. YOU ARE WORKING NEXT TO A LIVE WIRE AND WILL SHORT/START A FIRE WHEN THE TURBOS TOUCH THE LIVE WIRE

b) Organize new crush washers with bolts, install hard lines, and torque bolts to 28ft lbs using 19mm socket (4 hardlines, 8 crush washers) NOTE: Passenger side coolant feed line (Driver side of Passenger Turbo) has a special spacer and this set up requires 3 crush washers NOT 2.








c) Secure hardline brackets to turbo charger and torque to 8ft lbs using E8 socket (4 bolts total)



d) Install diverter valve recirculation hoses to Turbo using hose clamps and appropriate socket (2 total)





STEP 2: CONNECT TURBOCHARGER TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND DOWNPIPES

a) Place new Exhaust Manifold to Turbocharger gasket on exhaust manifold mating surface and loosely position v-band screw clamps around mating surface.


b) Place passenger turbo charger into position and connect oil return lines with oil return line gasket and bolts using E8 socket (2 bolts per turbo)


c) Place passenger turbo charger into place, ensuring gasket aligns and secure turbocharger to exhaust manifold using v-band clamps and 13mm socket then torque to 10 ft lbs (1 clamp per turbo charger)



d) Secure turbocharger to downpipe with new gasket ring and v-band screw clamp using 13mm socket and torque to 10ft lbs (1 clamp per turbo).


e) Secure oil feed lines to turbo charger with crush washers using 14mm socket and torque to 11 ft lbs (1 bolt per turbo)



f) Reconnect vacuum line to turbocharger wastegate



g) Repeat step 2a – 2f on driver side turbo










STEP 3: REINSTALL FILTERED AIR DUCTS AND CHARGED AIR PIPE

a) Reinstall crankcase ventilation heat shield using Torx Wrench (2 bolts per side and 2 bolts in the center, 6 bolts total)



b) Reinstall filtered air ducts using Torx wrench (one bolt per duct and 2 lines per ventilation line, 6 total)



c) Reinstall Charged Air Pipe using hose clamps and appropriate sockets

d) Reinstall diverter valve hoses using hose clamps and appropriate sockets

e) Reinstall Turbocharger coolant hoses using hose clamps and appropriate sockets


STEP 4: COMPLETE REINSTALLATION

a) Use this DIY to reinstall heat shielding, vacuum lines, and air intake:
https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1434167

STEP 5: BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM

a) Open both expansion tanks (Main tank near driver side of body and intercooler tank near passenger side turbo)

b) Attach battery tender to vehicle

c) Press start button twice WITHOUT depressing brake pedal

d) Depress accelerator for 12-15 sec or until you hear the water pump working

e) Wait 12 min and ensure the coolant reservoir does not run dry


STEP 6: START VEHICLE, TEST DRIVE, TEST AUXILLARY WATER PUMP

a) Start vehicle

b) Drive vehicle until up to operating temp (Oil temp just below center or 210 degrees)

c) Stop vehicle and turn off, then listen for auxillary water pump sucking coolant through turbos




BONUS: INSTALL NEW VACUUM HOSES DIY

PARTS:

2 X 10 ft of 4mm or 5/32 Inner Diameter (ID) Silicone Vacuum Hose (20 ft total)

STEP 1: Replace Vacuum Lines

a) Read Vacuum Line Codes


b) Remove Filtered Air Ducts and Charged Air Pipe

c) Remove Engine front brace

d) Remove Bank 2 vacuum line to Turbo and to vacuum tank and replace NOTE: Replacement of both bank 1 and bank 2 lines are made easier by unbolting and unplugging power from Auxiliary Water Pump. There is difficulty routing lines between Intercooler, Bank 1, and Alternator as Silicone lines are larger OD then OE lines.




e) Remove Bank 1 vacuum lines from solenoid to Turbo and Vacuum Tank and replace NOTE: Bank 1 lines are closest to the passenger side and intercooler which make it very difficult to reach.



f) Remove and replace vacuum lines from bank 1 and 2 vacuum tanks to vacuum T and vacuum Pump

g) Clear codes and Run vehicle under heavy boost

h) Check codes NOTE: I still had the below code so now replacing solenoid
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      05-01-2019, 01:36 AM   #2
Audiophilepaul
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I'm pretty sure your charge pipe issue is your DV+. Remove them and you'll notice a small ridge on the OEM side and note that the gasket on the DV+ is very small(not enough under boost). It leaks at about 11psi. You can fix by removing ridge on downpipes. Or figure out a better gasket. Clear codes and you're set.

What makes you think you need 4 Tmaps? And what PSI were you able to hit and what are you hitting after?

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      05-01-2019, 09:28 AM   #3
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Nice writeup!
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      05-02-2019, 07:16 PM   #4
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Nice write up! LEO?
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      05-03-2019, 09:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by napeHbNYC View Post
Nice write up! LEO?
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      05-03-2019, 11:57 PM   #6
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Great write up, Paul...pics, details and all :-)
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      08-05-2021, 07:59 PM   #7
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Kind of confused on the bleeding/venting procedure.

Do we leave the expansion tank open or no? ISTA warns to keep it closed but then says to watch the level and then even says at the end to close the expansion tank.

Kind of contradicting???
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      08-05-2021, 08:25 PM   #8
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Yes keep the Expansion tank near the turbo chargers open if you are filling an empty system. Once the bleed cycle starts it starts to suck it dry pretty quick so you’ll need to add some while the procedure is going. I keep the main expansion tank closed. Then once it’s done top off each expansion tank if needed, and run it again with both of the tanks closed.

Last edited by Bengineer330; 08-05-2021 at 09:30 PM..
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      08-05-2021, 09:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengineer330 View Post
Yes keep the Expansion tank near the turbo chargers open if you are filling an empty system. Once the bleed cycle starts it starts to suck it dry pretty quick so you’ll need to add some while the procedure is going. I keep the main expansion tank closed. Then once it’s done top off each expansion tank if needed, and run it again with both of the tanks closed.


Ok thanks
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      08-06-2021, 09:41 PM   #10
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Thanks for this write-up. Helped me finish my install!
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