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      07-19-2022, 05:47 PM   #199
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Holy cow, That's a ton of effort and patience!Nicely done man. Can't wait to see mounted.
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      07-19-2022, 06:30 PM   #200
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Holy cow, That's a ton of effort and patience!Nicely done man. Can't wait to see mounted.
I was thinking to make a carbon fiber mold for the power dome hood, and this was fun enough of a project to get a taste of how painful it would be Lol

Will be mounting it soon.

Thanks
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      07-25-2022, 08:09 AM   #201
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Mounted the lip - fitment was a challenge but this is about the best it can be.

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      07-25-2022, 08:10 AM   #202
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Originally Posted by XRatedM View Post
Mounted the lip - fitment was a challenge but this is about the best it can be.

Attachment 2940026

Attachment 2940027

Attachment 2940028

Attachment 2940029
MashaAllah looks great! Love the wheels brother.
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      07-25-2022, 10:16 AM   #203
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MashaAllah looks great! Love the wheels brother.
Thank you brother!
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      08-17-2022, 10:39 AM   #204
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Also, I re-routed the Oil Catch Can hoses and removed all the check valves because the catch cans weren't catching anything.

Here's the setup I revised to but instantly regretted it.

Removed all check vales.
Connected the catch can between intake duct and oil separator - In from Oil Separated (on the valve cover) and out to the intake boot/duct.
Connected Bank 1 and Bank 2 intake manifold lines without any check valves.

Outcome: MAF sensor went nuts, it probably couldn't read A/F mixture right and ran it so rich that I could smell fuel from the oil filler cap.

Re-did the lines and added the check valves back and everything went back to normal.

There are 4 check valves:
1. Bank 1 intake - Can only suck from oil separator to intake.
2. Bank 2 intake - Can only suck from oil separator to intake.
3. Bank 1 intake manifold - can only suck.
4. Bank 2 intake manifold - can only suck.

My bank 2 check valve was bad for the longest time (even the brand new replacement one was bad). My truck hasn't idled as smooth as it does now for the entirety of my ownership Lol

It still smokes after a long idle, I'm not completely sold on it being valve stem seals because it doesn't smoke at cold start - it could potentially be the injectors on their way out.

Finally, I was able to resolve blue smoke issue. Just for the sake of documenting symptoms or for anyone with similar issues.

Symptoms:
No blue smoke on cold start.
Smoke after idling for 30 seconds.
Smoke on idle with AC (RPM raised to around 700RPM) and even when you turn the AC off it would still smoke on idle (around 500RPM)
Smoke on deceleration when coming to a stop and smoked at take off after stopping.

I removed factory check valves in the CCV system and replaced them with UPR aftermarket check valves - truck would pull extreme vacuum in the crankcase to a point it was hard to remove oil filler cap.

Solution: Reverted everything back to factory and used single ear stepless clamps for all CCV and catch can hoses and that resolved all smoke issues. No smoke at all now. I'm guessing there were minor leaks in hoses that may have caused it to smoke.

I was told by everyone that it's valve stem seals, turns out it wasn't. Phew!! I wasn't looking to do a PITA DIY to replace valve stem seals! Lol
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      08-17-2022, 09:42 PM   #205
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Thanks for sharing!! So glad it's good news. Your documentation will certainly help many.
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      08-29-2022, 10:44 AM   #206
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Hello everyone,

I finally got a chance to do the transfer case, front and rear differential service and reset each in ISTA. Also had it aligned per Dinan specs and what a difference in how it handles! I'm happy to report that it's getting dialed in.

Here's a short snippet of some backroads fun with earful exhaust notes!

BMW E70 X5M - Passenger POV Backroads Drive
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      09-21-2022, 02:30 PM   #207
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Hello everyone,

I finally got a chance to do the transfer case, front and rear differential service and reset each in ISTA. Also had it aligned per Dinan specs and what a difference in how it handles! I'm happy to report that it's getting dialed in.

Here's a short snippet of some backroads fun with earful exhaust notes!

BMW E70 X5M - Passenger POV Backroads Drive
Great thread! Been basically going through everything you have done on my 2010 with 140,000 miles. Just finished the turbo oil return lines, coolant y-pipe, auxiliary turbo water pump, crank case hoses, plugs and coils. Currently re-doing all the front suspension bushings, ball joints, front an back sway bar link and sway bar bushings. Also going to install Dinan Springs with the new Dinan Bump stops and new shock mounts and rubber perches.

Debating whether to do shocks, just due to mileage and age, but still seem to ride good. They aren't leaking and cost is crazy.....so will probably hold off.

What did you find was leaking on the transfer case? I have a leak as well, along with a deteriorating Guibo Flex Disc that will be next to tackle. Did you replace the actuator gear?

Also have leaking valve covers and upper oil pan (did the lower since that was easy and adjusted the oil pump chain which was very loose). How is your upper oil pan?
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      09-22-2022, 08:36 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by GregWX5 View Post
Great thread! Been basically going through everything you have done on my 2010 with 140,000 miles. Just finished the turbo oil return lines, coolant y-pipe, auxiliary turbo water pump, crank case hoses, plugs and coils. Currently re-doing all the front suspension bushings, ball joints, front an back sway bar link and sway bar bushings. Also going to install Dinan Springs with the new Dinan Bump stops and new shock mounts and rubber perches.

Debating whether to do shocks, just due to mileage and age, but still seem to ride good. They aren't leaking and cost is crazy.....so will probably hold off.

What did you find was leaking on the transfer case? I have a leak as well, along with a deteriorating Guibo Flex Disc that will be next to tackle. Did you replace the actuator gear?

Also have leaking valve covers and upper oil pan (did the lower since that was easy and adjusted the oil pump chain which was very loose). How is your upper oil pan?
Hey, that's awesome - I think most of it is basic maintenance and needs done to retain the ride quality.

If the shocks aren't leaking, don't bother right now. I went the springs route for now because I plan on switching to KW V3 with EDC when it's time, for now it rides pretty well.

I have not replaced or touched the transfer case actuator because I had planned to remove the transmission + transfer case + differentials (front and rear) to go over in detail and inspect the leaks but I had to go on a road trip (about 2500 miles), so I just replaced the fluid and surprisingly transfer case and rear diff outer chambers were really low on fluid, about half of what is recommended, so it certainly is leaking but it's very slow and I'm not worried for now.

I do have a lot on my to do list but I hardly ever find time to get to it. Upper and Lower oil pan gaskets, rod bearings, engine mounts, rear control arms, flex guibo and so on. I just keep collecting parts lol and will see when I get to do it.

Ever since I sorted the PCV system with catch cans and a VVT breather, I'm not losing oil as such, about 300ml in 2500 miles which is quite normal for the S63 motor.

I haven't touched the bottom end of the motor yet but I plan to soon.
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      09-26-2022, 09:11 PM   #209
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Excellent thread! New here and just went through all of it. Love seeing the progress!
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      09-27-2022, 02:42 PM   #210
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Excellent thread! New here and just went through all of it. Love seeing the progress!
Thank you!
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      09-30-2022, 11:08 AM   #211
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Originally Posted by XRatedM View Post
Hey, that's awesome - I think most of it is basic maintenance and needs done to retain the ride quality.

If the shocks aren't leaking, don't bother right now. I went the springs route for now because I plan on switching to KW V3 with EDC when it's time, for now it rides pretty well.

I have not replaced or touched the transfer case actuator because I had planned to remove the transmission + transfer case + differentials (front and rear) to go over in detail and inspect the leaks but I had to go on a road trip (about 2500 miles), so I just replaced the fluid and surprisingly transfer case and rear diff outer chambers were really low on fluid, about half of what is recommended, so it certainly is leaking but it's very slow and I'm not worried for now.

I do have a lot on my to do list but I hardly ever find time to get to it. Upper and Lower oil pan gaskets, rod bearings, engine mounts, rear control arms, flex guibo and so on. I just keep collecting parts lol and will see when I get to do it.

Ever since I sorted the PCV system with catch cans and a VVT breather, I'm not losing oil as such, about 300ml in 2500 miles which is quite normal for the S63 motor.

I haven't touched the bottom end of the motor yet but I plan to soon.
What's your take on the Rod Bearings, since I'll have to do the upper oil pan gasket since it is leaking I was also thinking of addressing the rod bearings. Evaluating whether this is something I can tackle on my own as well. I saw they have different clearances in real oem, that's the part I'm nervous about ordering the right parts for this.

Any parts that need special tools? I though there was something special about adjusting the oil pump chain. I previously tightened the oil pump chain when I dropped the lower pan and the chain was pretty loose so glad I did that. But should probably replace the chain as well, but not sure how hard that would be.
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      10-02-2022, 06:52 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by GregWX5 View Post
What's your take on the Rod Bearings, since I'll have to do the upper oil pan gasket since it is leaking I was also thinking of addressing the rod bearings. Evaluating whether this is something I can tackle on my own as well. I saw they have different clearances in real oem, that's the part I'm nervous about ordering the right parts for this.

Any parts that need special tools? I though there was something special about adjusting the oil pump chain. I previously tightened the oil pump chain when I dropped the lower pan and the chain was pretty loose so glad I did that. But should probably replace the chain as well, but not sure how hard that would be.
Although it's not a known issue in first gen S63 but certainly not a bad idea to do as preventative maintenance. I have been collecting parts for a bottom end engine refresh i.e. upper oil pan gasket, lower oil pan gasket, oil pump chain, rod bearings, rear main seal, rear coolant cover, motor mounts, and anything else I see along the way.

I doubt any specials tools are required but I'll double check in ISTA+ for you. You do need to replace connecting rod bolts, factory/OEM bolts have a 3 step torque process from what I remember. So I had planned go replace them with ARP or something (I haven't looked into it much just yet lol) but it's not rocket science - follow ISTA+ and you'd be good.

These things may not be in the worse of the condition but it's helps tremendously towards longevity of the engine.
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      10-04-2022, 12:21 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRatedM View Post
Although it's not a known issue in first gen S63 but certainly not a bad idea to do as preventative maintenance. I have been collecting parts for a bottom end engine refresh i.e. upper oil pan gasket, lower oil pan gasket, oil pump chain, rod bearings, rear main seal, rear coolant cover, motor mounts, and anything else I see along the way.

I doubt any specials tools are required but I'll double check in ISTA+ for you. You do need to replace connecting rod bolts, factory/OEM bolts have a 3 step torque process from what I remember. So I had planned go replace them with ARP or something (I haven't looked into it much just yet lol) but it's not rocket science - follow ISTA+ and you'd be good.

These things may not be in the worse of the condition but it's helps tremendously towards longevity of the engine.

Which rod bearing did you buy? You planning to pull your engine or do everything from dropping the sub-frame? Haven't thought about the rear main seal and the coolant cover. Need to look into what that involves.
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      10-04-2022, 12:50 PM   #214
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Which rod bearing did you buy? You planning to pull your engine or do everything from dropping the sub-frame? Haven't thought about the rear main seal and the coolant cover. Need to look into what that involves.
I have not bought rod bearings yet but they're part of the plan I would've loved to pull the engine out and just overhaul the entire thing but I don't have a lift nor a good way to lift the truck high enough to pull the engine out.

The plan is to drop the subframe and transmission + differentials and go from there.

Rear coolant cover is a weak point and hardest to get to (can potentially leave you stranded if it decides to leak) and often leaks around 100-150k mile mark and requires the transmission to be dropped to gain access (it's at the back of the motor, sandwiched between the transmission and the motor).
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      10-10-2022, 07:26 PM   #215
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I have not bought rod bearings yet but they're part of the plan I would've loved to pull the engine out and just overhaul the entire thing but I don't have a lift nor a good way to lift the truck high enough to pull the engine out.

The plan is to drop the subframe and transmission + differentials and go from there.

Rear coolant cover is a weak point and hardest to get to (can potentially leave you stranded if it decides to leak) and often leaks around 100-150k mile mark and requires the transmission to be dropped to gain access (it's at the back of the motor, sandwiched between the transmission and the motor).
I'm in the same boat about wanting to remove the engine and do it all without a lift. The pain of rolling over sockets while trying to contort to reach different bolts on this thing laying on my back is getting all to common now. Let us know how how proceed evaluating which bearings and rod bolts. I'm also not sure if I have the original oil pump, so not sure if that is a necessary upgrade as well.
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      10-20-2022, 09:24 AM   #216
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I'm in the same boat about wanting to remove the engine and do it all without a lift. The pain of rolling over sockets while trying to contort to reach different bolts on this thing laying on my back is getting all to common now. Let us know how how proceed evaluating which bearings and rod bolts. I'm also not sure if I have the original oil pump, so not sure if that is a necessary upgrade as well.
Having the engine out would be great and help with all kinds of access. Mine runs fine for now, so I'm not really messing with anything, as it's getting colder and garage feels like a freezer So I'm going no where near that.

I will keep everyone posted here as I start with anything. I will be replacing inner tie rod ends soon, that's one thing I did not replaced when I refreshed the suspension and turns out one of them is bad FML! LOL
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      10-20-2022, 09:26 AM   #217
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Forums don't let me embed videos but here's a POV video I made.

BMW X5M POV Drive | 4K
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      10-24-2022, 11:26 AM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRatedM View Post
Having the engine out would be great and help with all kinds of access. Mine runs fine for now, so I'm not really messing with anything, as it's getting colder and garage feels like a freezer So I'm going no where near that.

I will keep everyone posted here as I start with anything. I will be replacing inner tie rod ends soon, that's one thing I did not replaced when I refreshed the suspension and turns out one of them is bad FML! LOL
I just did the tie rods this weekend as part of the suspension overhaul and Dinan Springs. I did the kit from FCP Euro that included the bellows and entire tie rod with connection to the Steering Rack. Over all pretty straight forward. Front end should be nice and tight after this! I did all the lower components but did not do the upper wishbone. Not sure if it's needed, but the cost for that one component is high compared to the other parts.
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