02-24-2020, 12:13 PM | #573 |
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The way the air swirls in behind this vehicle, it deposits all the dust and dirt on the rear window!
I have washed my X5, driven it one day, and the rear is covered in a film while rest of car is still clean...
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heatmizr [Todd]
g26 i4 e40 - Clean Machine e70 X5 50i M-Sport "The Boss" Loaded e90 328i - sold e36 M3 - Gone to become a track star |
02-26-2020, 02:29 PM | #574 |
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took the ugly winters off and put the 20s back on
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2012 X5d | Deleted & BRR Tuned | DWR TCU Tune | 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen
Build Thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1529213 |
02-27-2020, 12:23 PM | #575 |
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I got my brake controller all sorted- my OEM trailer harness seems to have had the blue and black wires swapped, which is a hilarious quality control issue. Good thing for fuses, blew a few 30 amp'ers before I figured out that issue. Those two wires are the positive 12v feed, and the main power output to the trailer brakes.
It makes me wonder if that burned a wire on the brake circuit of my trailer, since I seem to have an open circuit instead of resistance on the brake line, which made diagnosing the brake controller very misleading. Last weekend, I also replaced the red boost hose seals for the diesel motor, wired in a fresh PDC connector since the wiring was shot to one, throwing error messages, and installed my 12" diode dynamics lightbar on a relay right to the highbeams. It outputs a fantastic amount of light for a little single row 12". It easily doubles output of my highbeams, and is really nice to have at night. I'm seriously starting to consider trying to replace my oem foglights with a pair of their pro series pod lights, to act as driving lights and be used along with my low beams. I didn't get around to the rear lightbars yet, but they're installed and just need to be vampire clipped into power and grounds. That shouldn't be crazy hard. I also need to set up my dashcam, but the hard part of running the rear camera cable was done when I wired the trailer brake controller. Really just have to put it up at this point, along with tapping into switched power by the mirror to power it.
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Last edited by Spyro235; 02-27-2020 at 12:30 PM.. |
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03-02-2020, 09:16 AM | #576 |
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Is the harness near by? I’m considering this upgrade as well but I have very little experience doing electrical work. I have no idea where I would have to run or tap into the harness. Maybe I’ll just take it to a shop and have them do it.
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03-02-2020, 09:53 AM | #577 | |
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These two products make electrical work much more managable for me- Vampire clips - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 EZ solder connectors, heat these babies up with a heat gun, one wire in from each side (stripped as needed) and they are weatherpoof shrinkwrapped and soldered together at the same time. I suck at soldering, this is a LIFE SAVER for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 With these, and some spare wiring available to cut to needed length, you can wire up just about anything! I'll admit, vampire clipping stuff isn't TECHNICALLY the right way to do things, but it's SUPER easy, and I've never ever had an issue with it. Would I run 10 amps through one? nah. But for the 1-2 mins max that the bars will be drawing a few watts, I think it'll be fine. |
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03-02-2020, 11:33 AM | #578 |
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03-02-2020, 11:36 AM | #579 |
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03-03-2020, 01:49 PM | #581 |
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Drives: E39 M5, E70 X5M, 90 Z32TT, 360
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: United States
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That's a great deal. What coating was used?
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03-05-2020, 03:10 AM | #582 |
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03-05-2020, 09:29 AM | #583 |
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Well, my buddy's caliper had a seeping bleeder valve, and when he went to tighten it, it stripped out completely. No brakes on it. As it turns out, my first non-bmw tow is going to be an '08 R32! tuns out they're a little porky at 3500-3600 lbs, so I'll be right around 5800 lbs for the casual lunchtime/ after work tow. I didn't realize that my tongue weight scale is actually in my drift car, at my shop, so I guess I'll be eyeeing this load. I'll load it until she squats an inch or two, since I've got my airbags at their "full trailer" setting of 42psi. I'll know by the end of the short mile or two back to work if we need to move it one direction or the other a few inches.
The commute took 20 minutes longer than usual with the trailer, as I stuck in the right lane most of the time through my NJ traffic commute. Trailer brakes are continuing to work wonderfully, and I set up a magnetic mount on the bracket so that I have a sleep looking removable mount. I can post a photo up sometime, of my placement, it's the best place I could come up with, without taking up the passenger side cup holder. I just didn't want to have to fight over my cupholder when my girlfriend is in the car, and I need my trailer brakes working lol. |
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03-07-2020, 11:32 PM | #584 |
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Valve cover gasket etc
Time to do the valve cover gasket on the 2011 diesel. Started this weekend. Did glow plugs and controller while I have the intake off. Also doing vacuum lines and thermostat. Lots of rust around #5 and #6 injectors due to water leaking off cowl. These were very tough to remove and unfortunately broke a center valve cover bolt due to the rust. I will be spending some quality time working that out over the next few days
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03-08-2020, 07:31 AM | #585 | |
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03-08-2020, 08:17 PM | #587 |
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Same with me. Dirty air get sucked in behind a fast moving car. Its physics.
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03-09-2020, 09:54 AM | #588 |
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Today my E70 is at the dealer getting the NOx sensors replaced under warranty. Also having them doing the newest air bag recall (just a harness I think). I'm still under the 120/10yr period so this will hopefully last until I decide to delete (still a maybe). I was waiting for the codes to pop up since they had popped up before and I mistakenly removed them.
The codes/faults that were present were P20EE, P204F, 42FC and 4D18. I also had 4990 stored. These were taken with Torque and Btool apps. On a side note, something weird happened. I check my oil with the dipstick often, like once a week. Yesterday I was going through my menu to reset the MPG's in the iDrive and noticed the yellow MAX ENGINE OIL warning. I decided to let the car sit and checked again from the dip stick and it was at the MAX level, actually a little over but not on the metal part of the stick. It has always been right at the half previously. The ONLY thing I can think of was my driving style that day which was more aggressive than normal for at least 40 miles. I was trying out my Sutphin trans tune in Sport mode (wow!). I've read a few threads about it and I'm not too worried and I forgot to check this morning before the initial start up for the day. I will let my Indy know and see what he thinks.
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03-09-2020, 12:46 PM | #589 |
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Making progress again after months of delays (due to work), both heads have had a mild port and polish done to them, valve guide seals replaced, combustion chambers touched up, exhaust valves lapped, new injectors, new HPFP's, new water pump & 90C thermostat. Bank 2 is nearly done, then on to Bank1 and then bolt everything back together.
Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 03-09-2020 at 12:57 PM.. |
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03-09-2020, 01:25 PM | #590 |
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I gave my windshield good wash, clay, and coating again. Last did it in November and it had worn completely off. I'm sure the winter is pretty brutal on it. I did the front and rear last time, and this time I did the front, two front sides, and the mirrors. I'm curious howthe front vs rear side windows look, and maybe I'll end up doing the rear sides too.
On another note, I'm pretty dissapointed with the safelite installed windshield I have. It was pu in at the very end of august and it is alllll chipped up again. Is a windshield going to be yearly/ after every winter maint? That's crappy. I try not to drive close to other cars, especially when it's recently been salted, but I drive 40k+ a year. Highway wear includes chips I guess, unfortunately. I've never really noticed the accumulation happen so quickly before on my other vehicles. I'm glad I finally got around to coating the windshield again though. Bad weather visibility is SO much better with a fresh coating. I'm trying to figure out why my wipers get so jittery and not smooth after a coating. I did clean them too, but maybe it's time for new wipers after winter. |
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03-09-2020, 01:51 PM | #591 | |
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Coated glass is awesome. You can almost drive without using the wipers at all. I coat all the glass. I applied a coat back in Oct/Nov and need to reapply soon. What product do you use? |
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03-09-2020, 01:57 PM | #592 | |
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This is what I bought on a whim, acalled hendlex glass pro. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was curious how cheaper coatings would do, and while it truly only lasted 2 months, it was pretty darn nice while it lasted. I'm going to use the rest of this bottl,e probably have 1 more coating in it, and then I'm going to try another coating. I'm willing to spend money on one that'll last a lot longer- I'm jsut trying to have a good bead and wet/rainy clarity for as long as possible. And yes, above 40mph, especially i there's no oncoming lights, you can definitely go no- wipers. |
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03-13-2020, 08:18 AM | #593 | |
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https://www.detailersdomain.com/coll...-glass-sealant It worked really well and lasted a pretty long time. I applied it in October I didnt get 6 months out of it since the car sits outside 24/7 but it worked well. Once I detail the car this spring I will be applying it again. Without all the salt kicking up, Im curious to see how long it lasts in spring/summer weather. Nanolex and Fictech also make a nice sealant for glass as well. |
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03-13-2020, 09:44 AM | #594 |
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Replaced turbo coolant pump. Total time around 45 minutes. Removed radiator fan assembly instead of messing with the intercooler. Lost a small amount of coolant which I topped off, then bled the system. Symptoms were a loud scratching sound after the X was turned off, then I received 2 codes for the turbo pump. All well now.
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