2011 X5 35i N55 - 2DCE + 2E0F - No throttle

[bmwannabe]

Hi everyone. Have a strange predicament with my wife's 2011 X5

car has left me stranded twice in the last month. It would suddenly lose power and shut off. Would not start - tried about 20 times.

I had it towed within about an hour and it started right up after it was was dropped off.

Mechanic pulled up 2DCE and 2E0F the first time this happened.

I know I need a new valve cover due to PCV whistling ( confirmed whistling stops when I open engine oil cap - and already replaced the PCV cover twice with no success.

what i'm suspecting:

- Apparently a DME software update by dealer will/should fix the 2EOF and rough idle issue but I doubt this is the cause of the stalling

- 2DCE could be due to Eccentric shaft sensor / motor - or I just need to re-learn Valvetronic limit positions using ISTA+

could this all be related to the PCV issue and valve cover replacement? I don't want to have to take off the valve cover a second time if it turns out to be an eccentric shaft sensor or motor.

Car is in the driveway now and sometimes it drives fine but usually you can't apply more than 20% throttle else it will crap out and threaten to shut off and require a tow.

Appreciate any advice here.
TIA

[ryansbmw]

2DCE could also be a problem with the eccentric shaft itself.

I’m having a bit of a problem with my idle on cold starts when the temps start falling, sometimes resulting in the car stalling out. With mine tho, the car will always start right back up and be fine. In the past, codes popped up related to the intake VANOS but the other day a few codes popped up related to the valvetronic motors, 2DCE being one of them. I need to get the car to the shop and have them pull the valve cover off and really try to track down the problem. It’s very annoying. I’m wondering if the ISTA tests will pick up on anything if the codes are not always present

[bmwannabe]

In my case it seems the car is fine on cold start - but has trouble once it gets up to temperature - and thats also when it starts to whistle due to the PCV issue

I'm going to bite the bullet and take it to my mechanic - i'll post any updates

My understanding is the ISTA software will log the codes - even though they may not cause a MIL light - that's how I found out and resolved an issue with my heater thermostat.

[bmwannabe]

just got back from my mechanic.. some bad news ( but not surprising )

Here are the codes from ISTA+

2DCE - Valvetronic system - no adjustment possible
2DD6 - Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: Short circuit or line disconnection
2DE3 - Valvetronic servomotor activation volt phase Line disconnection
2EF0 - Valvetronic system: deactivated. Adjustment fault too frequent


Mechanic is suggesting 2 options:

1) disconnect the sensors wiring harness -which will leave the valvetronic in max open state and also throw CEL - but apparently its ok to drive like this

2) - Fix the issue by replacing:
valvetronic cam shaft $$$ + Adjuster motor

I'm going with option 1 for now and also replacing the valve cover but Im not sure if this may just be a faulty sensors and the motor + camshaft are ok?

[ryansbmw]

What kind of quote did he give you for option 2? I’m curious what the labor is for this kind of job. Really hoping I only need the motor and not the shaft too

[bmwannabe]

Originally Posted by ryansbmw

What kind of quote did he give you for option 2? I’m curious what the labor is for this kind of job. Really hoping I only need the motor and not the shaft too

Labour on option 2 was 600 which I think is quite fair.
Considering valve cover labour itself is $350

And I suspect its just the motor/sensors that needs to be replaced. Thats seems the be the concensus online. either way I don't hear any grinding/chatter noises on startup which are indicative of a failed motor.

Wondering if i can just drive the car with the valvetronic unplugged permanently.

[bmwannabe]

Just got the car back from the mechanic

- Replaced valve cover ( no more whistling noise now on warm idle )
- Disconnected the valvetronic

With valvetronic disconnected the car drives eratically, its down on power and vibrates quite a bit at idle.

I reconnected valvetronic and it drives much better now. I'm sure the error codes ( above ) are still there - but i'm willing to live with it

here's an excellent video on how to replace the valvetronic motor. This may be next on my list if I decide to keep the car

[bmwannabe]

FWIW -

After replacing the valve cover and plugging the Valvetronic back in - the car seems to be driving perfectly fine. I suspect excess pressure from Faulty valve cover was impacting performance of the valvetronic - but time will tell.