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      01-10-2022, 08:03 PM   #265
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S6F1A B&W Subwoofer Upgrade

Found a deal and picked up a pair of B&W subs (65-13-2-622-510). Given that audio is very subjective by individual, I’m extremely happy with the S752A amp powering the B&W underseat subs and can easily recommend this upgrade.

NOTICE: I realize not everyone is interested in audio upgrades, nor is interested in going to the extent I’ve documented. I only hope the info is helpful in some way. If I could only do one audio mod to my vehicle it would be to replace the center dash coaxial speaker with a B&W midrange (65-13-2-622-774) and filtered tweeter (65-13-9-279-629). Note you’ll need to modify the enclosure b/c the tweeter bank is blanked out or purchase a used center dash enclosure (65-13-9-277-840) from the S677A (Top HiFi) audio system which has cutouts for a midrange and tweeter. Expect roughly $100 for brand new tweeter, ~$150 for brand new midrange, and ~$40 for used enclosure.

SUMMARY
The Bavsound ghost subwoofers I have been using were a modest improvement over the S752A under-seat subs when using the oem infotainment system. Once I upgraded my system as described below in combo with ghost subwoofers, the bass became very crisp and punchy [With the B&W subs installed, I now recognize my setup didn't have a lot of sub-bass]. The bass results only improved with custom crossovers and B&W midranges installed all around. I have been very happy with this setup. Then the thread below enlightened me that the S6F1A B&W subs could be swapped in and the results were significant. However, I still did not feel the need to swap subs...until after a year of monitoring when I found a deal on a lightly used pair and decided to try them out. The thread below by SlowX6M identifies that the S6F1A audio system sends the subs 250w rms and RL18 determined that even more amazing results could be had using the under-seat B&W subs when a separate amp and dsp are used to send 200+watts of power to the subs. It was/is my intent to duplicate this setup, however after this install I’m extremely happy to keep powering the B&W subs with the individual S752A amp. I will save this project after hitting some higher priority items and would expect the results to be significant.

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1774331


INSTALLATION:
1. Remove Front Seat Trim. For the seat front trim, you may be able to do step 3 and it'll slide out easily. Otherwise continue steps. All front seat trim removal is the same, as is all rear seat trim.

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2. Unfasten Front Seat from Floor. Slide seat forward and remove Qty.2 T45 Torx Screws from rails. Slide seat rearward and remove Qty.2 T45 Torx Screws from rails. Bolt installation torque is 43Nm.

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3. Position Front Seat for Sub Removal. Place folded cardboard under rear rails so that when seat pivots rearward, the cardboard is between rails and carpet. Position seat using seat control buttons so that when you manually pivot seat backward, the seat back rests on the rear seat AND the seat electrical harness is not in tension. This will require holding seat and monitoring of electrical harness as seat back adjustments are made.

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4. Remove underseat subwoofer. Remove Qty.4 T15 Torx Screws and remove top cover. Lift up surrounding carpet. Remove Qty.4 10mm Socket Head Screws. Disconnect electrical subwoofer connector. Pull out subwoofer.

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5. Install S6F1A B&W Subwoofer.
- Remove OEM S752A or Bavsound subwoofer, but reuse fasteners, enclosure, and top trim with S6F1A B&W subwoofer.
- The Bavsound subwoofer was installed with D-shaped adhesive gasket. Remove gasket as it is oversized and protrudes past the enclosure edge and prevents the S6F1A B&W sub from fitting flatly into the S752A oem subwoofer enclosure.
- When working on a table with the subwoofer, set it on some wax paper. The bottom of the subwoofer has a lightly sticky gasket that is supposed to make a seal with the floor. Setting it on wax paper prevents the gasket from picking up dirt, etc.
- Install foam adhesive (or D-shaped) gasket 5/16” wide by approx. 28.5” long and 1/8” thick. The S6F1A B&W subwoofer can be installed without, however doing so makes the sub susceptible to wobble upon assembly if care is not taken to tighten fasteners evenly. This is because the sub bottom is dome shape and interferes with the S752A enclosure like a bowl fitted inside a round hole. Even so, it was obvious that the sub mounting flange sat about 1/8” above the mounting surface of the S752A sub enclosure and thus appeared not to seal. As such, using the foam adhesive gasket results in the sub flange sealing while sitting more secure and evenly.

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- Install the B&W subwoofer with existing fasteners such that the top flange of the subwoofer is flush with the enclosure surface surrounding the sub. This is a guide, just make sure it’s fixed in the enclosure. Making it flush just ensures it’s aligned evenly in the sub enclosure, as well as creates the seal.

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- The S752 enclosure top trim piece does not fit perfectly back on top of the enclosure b/c it interferes with the S6F1A B&W sub top frame. However, the trim piece is required to install the protective trim cover which protects the sub under the seat as well as covers the carpet hole. As best possible, re-install with top trim piece sitting evenly on top of sub, then insert assembly into vehicle and fasten 10mm hex bolts making sure to screw them in evenly at all four corners to ensure top trim piece remains flat/even. Tighten only by hand and then ensure sub assembly is fixed to the floor and does not move. Note that this trim piece will deflect slightly and affect the hole alignment of the top trim piece, but no worries it shouldn't be enough to affect installation.
- Prior to reinstalling the subwoofer, the S752A under-seat subwoofer connector must be modified to interface with S6F1A B&W sub OR new universal connectors and pins must be purchased (see below). Pry up connector tab. Press pin locks and remove both wires from connector. Using a sharp chisel, remove long tab that prevents insertion into B&W subwoofer connector shell. Note the S752A connector does not lock into S6F1A B&W sub connector.

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- The under-seat replacement connector is P/N: 61-13-2-359-996 and comes with three sizes of pins. It also appears to be universal so fits S752A and S6F1A under-seat subwoofer systems. Cost is about $25/each. To remove wires, lift connector top tab carefully (fragile). Using a tiny flat head, press down pin locks while simultaneously pulling on wires.

-Now is a great time to vacuum and grease the seat rails.


CURRENT AUDIO SYSTEM SETUP
- This section provides you a timeslice of my current audio setup when considering my conclusions below.
- My vehicle has the S752A Individual Audio System which is a great system. This OEM system has filters (capacitors) in the tweeters located in the D-Pillars and Rear Doors. The center dash is a coaxial speaker with filter. The front door component speakers have diplexers (crossovers) in the door panels. However, it’s important to note that as our vehicles age, so do the low quality capacitors in the diplexers and filters which cause drifting of the crossover points and can result in a muddy sound (relative to upgrades below). I have tested this statement first hand as I examined old diplexers and tweeter filters by measuring their capacitance and found significant deviance from the rated capacitance.
- Been using Bavsound Ghost under-seat Subwoofers in place of the S752A under-seat subwoofers for years. These point upward toward the seat, as opposed to the oem subwoofers that point down into a oem designed routed “port” (path that may go up the b-pillar)
- Have an android infotainment system stored with lossless music files which are played on the UAPP app. The UAPP app has a 10-band equalizer starting at 31Hz. Sound is output digitally via the android infotainment USB and then to an Audioquest Cobalt digital to analog converter (DAC). From there I use an audioquest high-end aux output cable that plugs into the OEM AUX socket in the center console. I now do not underestimate the ability of the OEM Aux to output great audio, especially as described above. It exceeds the listening experience I get on the oem infotainment system and is thus now preferred. If you dive into my previous pedantic posts, you’ll see I’m setup so that both systems are almost equalized in volume, so I don’t need to adjust volume when going from android infotainment to oem infotainment and vice versa. [Side note, if you don’t have an android infotainment system but do have an android phone, you should be able to duplicate playing music files with great results through the OEM Aux In if you use the UAPP player app. Assuming your android phone has music files, download UAPP from google play, connect your phone to a DAC, then use an aux cable from the DAC to the OEM Aux In in center console. Adjust UAPP equalizer as wanted. Note...IMO music file, DAC, and aux cable quality critically matter. Be sure to clean out your Aux In port with compressed air, any filament in there can cause static.]

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- OEM infotainment Treble and Bass set at 0. Equalizer set to flat. Surround OFF.
- In the process of upgrading all my S752A speakers to S6F1A B&W speakers: midranges (65-13-2-622-774) and non-filtered tweeters (65-13-2-622-773). At the moment, all locations except the front doors have upgraded B&W speakers.
- In the process of installing custom matched crossovers to the B&W speakers at all locations. I currently have completed the rear doors and center dash channel. The sound with the custom crossovers is another level in clarity. I compare them to the S752A components in the front doors and it’s not a fair comparison as the front doors sound very muddy. Had I not heard the what the sound could sound like with upgrades, I would be satisfied with my S752A system knowing that it sounds great and sure, like everything else, there’s better.


S6F1A B&W SUB CONCLUSIONS
After multiple measurements, the B&W subwoofer is between 5.5 ohms and 6.0 ohms, likely the latter. The Bavsound subwoofer is rated for 8 ohms. FWIW the S752A (individual) under-seat subs are the heaviest at 1637g, Ghost subs at 1038g, and B&W subs 1031g. BMW states that the B&W sub can handle 250watts rms. It’s unknown how much the S752A amp sends the under-seat subwoofers. However, the B&W subs have a much greater presence given the lower resistance.

The end result is a significant improvement. It’s difficult to write about sound. The clarity remains with increased SPL, fullness, and the addition of modest low frequency (~31hz) output. Using the UAPP equalizer I can zero out the 31Hz band and there is a definite shift in reduction of sound, hence the B&W subs are reproducing in that frequency range. It is a hypothesis, but I believe the OEM Aux Input audio is not altered by the S752A amp, whereas when using the OEM infotainment system the audio is altered by the S752A amp (even with settings to default). I get amazing clarity from the Android Infotainment setup and less clarity when playing through the OEM infotainment system, given the settings mentioned above. However, both sides output great audio IMO.

FWIW, a note on the quality of the B&W speakers, or at least the P/N's mentioned in this post, I had tested in post#219 Pg.10. The crossover/speaker designer showed me an analysis comparing a very high-end speaker to one that was not. The high end speaker curve was not flat and was indeed horribly jagged, where as the other was not great but in comparison was flat. The obvious point being that price does not necessarily make a speaker good and testing is your friend. He said these B&W speakers were "good", but he hoped I didn't spend a lot of money on them..LOL.
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      01-26-2022, 06:04 PM   #266
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Feeling comfortable enough to share this pic...my E70 gear selector in work...a couple hurdles remain...so far it looks way better than I thought it would.


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      02-01-2022, 06:22 AM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Feeling comfortable enough to share this pic...my E70 gear selector in work...a couple hurdles remain...so far it looks way better than I thought it would.

Attachment 2798147
That looks nice, looking forward to completion!
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      02-01-2022, 11:18 AM   #268
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Very nice!!
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      02-04-2022, 04:10 PM   #269
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Finished F-Series Shift Knob install and test. DIY to follow...waiting for the oem CF trim piece.

The DIY I'll post is LONG, but the work involved is not difficult, maybe a bit tedious. You have to remove the E70 gear selector from the center console. You can probably get away with a minimum of ~$150 to get a used gear selector and don't plan to change the trim. Expect to pay more if it's nicer and you want new trim. The DIY will share exactly what to look for to find a compatible gear selector. Most are not compatible.

In this pic, I plan to re-wrap the climate surround trim to be piano black and will likely remove the steering wheel CF-look trim and go back to original trim. The shift knob trim shown is ceramic and the idrive is wrapped in piano black vinyl. The ceramic does go with the rest, I'll have a choice to make whether to keep the CF trim or stay with ceramic. The CF trim will come with the ///M logo on the R-N-D display...which is usable with any trim.

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      02-07-2022, 05:53 AM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Finished F-Series Shift Knob install and test. DIY to follow...waiting for the oem CF trim piece.

The DIY I'll post is LONG, but the work involved is not difficult, maybe a bit tedious. You have to remove the E70 gear selector from the center console. You can probably get away with a minimum of ~$150 to get a used gear selector and don't plan to change the trim. Expect to pay more if it's nicer and you want new trim. The DIY will share exactly what to look for to find a compatible gear selector. Most are not compatible.

In this pic, I plan to re-wrap the climate surround trim to be piano black and will likely remove the steering wheel CF-look trim and go back to original trim. The shift knob trim shown is ceramic and the idrive is wrapped in piano black vinyl. The ceramic does go with the rest, I'll have a choice to make whether to keep the CF trim or stay with ceramic. The CF trim will come with the ///M logo on the R-N-D display...which is usable with any trim.

Attachment 2804941
Looks good. No ///M logo on it I think...right?
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      02-07-2022, 08:53 AM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Looks good. No ///M logo on it I think...right?
Right, the shifter is from a 650. The oem carbon fiber trim kit I ordered should have the ///M logo on the RND glass...we'll see. Another trial and error, the p/n shows to be this f-style shift knob trim, but on the internet and ebay you'll get results for both this one and E-series style looking F-series shift knob. The DIY is done, just waiting on the CF trim piece to see which way it goes...
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      02-07-2022, 10:50 AM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Looks good. No ///M logo on it I think...right?
Right, the shifter is from a 650. The carbon fiber trim kit I ordered should have the ///M logo on the RND glass...we'll see. Another trial and error, the p/n shows to be this f-style shift knob trim, but on the internet and ebay you'll get results for both this one and E-series style looking F-series shift knob. The DIY is done, just waiting on the CF trim piece to see which way it goes...
I'm excited! Can't wait! Thanks for this bud.
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      02-12-2022, 09:16 AM   #273
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BMW E36 Series DIYS and Retrofits

On occasion I get random emails with questions about past E36 DIYs I wrote. I am posting them here so the next time I'm asked, I can just point them to this link.

E36 Conversion to 18-Button Onboard Computer (OBC):
18OBC DIY 1of2 - BMW E36 Conversion-Upgrade.pdf
18OBC DIY 2of2 - BMW E36 X1071 Harness Wiring Schematic.pdf

E36 Cruise Control Retrofit:
BMW E36 Cruise Control Kit OEM Instructions.pdf
BMW E36 Cruise Control Upgrade - DIY_v.2.pdf

E36 Rear Power Vent Windows:
OEM DIY E36M3 Rear Power Vent Windows Rev.1.pdf
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      02-13-2022, 11:45 AM   #274
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DIY F-Series Shifter Knob into E-Series X5/X5M

As I wrote these instructions it became evident that there are way too many words, however your patience will be rewarded if this interests you at all. This is not a difficult DIY, but it can be tedious. Once you read the entire DIY I think you’ll realize the actual work part isn’t bad and there’s just a lot of info to communicate to help you avoid pitfalls and/or find an easier path. It took some trial and error to find a good path to final install. I have no doubt that you will find better ways to do some of this work, so please share if you can improve on what’s presented.

This is purely an aesthetic upgrade IMO. There is NO improvement over existing OEM hardware to be gained. If you’ve been following this thread, you know I have spent time wrapping the shift knob trim in black or carbon fiber vinyl. Vinyl wrapping looks decent but the edges peel over time and wrapping around the trim edge results in fitment issues. About a year and a half ago I found one poster in the classified selling his E70 who had replaced his E70 shift knob with a DCT shift knob, but after asking he claimed he’d post info but didn’t. Then recently I found another poster in the classifieds who was selling his E70 and he had an F-series shifter installed. He was happy to share the one critical detail needed to identify the applicable gear selectors in an ocean of bmw gear selector options. So HUGE thanks to dlucas589 for his effort and expense with trial and error to find the key to selecting the right gear selector for our E70s.

Final install of Carbon Fiber F-Series Shift Knob into E70 X5M:
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SUMMARY:
-Purchase a used F06, F12, or F13 Gear Selector with appropriate shifter ribbon cable.
-Remove F-Series shift knob components from gear selector. Clean components and thoroughly condition leather boot.
-Modify leather boot plastic stem and trim away excess leather.
-Remove E70 gear selector from vehicle (negative battery cable disconnected prior)
-Remove E70 Shift knob and components from E70 gear selector.
-[Optional] Wrap E70 EDC trim in matte black (or preferred color) vinyl wrap of your choice.
-Cut leather boot plastic stem to size
-Install F-Series shift knob and leather boot onto E70 gear selector, reassemble trim components, and install back into vehicle.

INSTALLATION NOTES:
-Once this MOD is installed, it is completely reversible and you can restore your E70 OEM shift knob at any time, without removal of the entire gear selector from the vehicle.
-Unless you purchase the expensive OEM Carbon Fiber Shifter Trim (61-31-2-250-703) you may not have the m-logo on the RND glass display. The glass display is also compatible with aluminum and ceramic shifter trims. This kit requires use of a T9 torx driver for installation. There is a third party selling R-N-D displays with M-logo on eBay (search ‘bmw console gear stick selector’). I ordered one and they are pretty close to OEM, maybe ~90%. The m-logo is slightly smaller and if you zoom in there are some micro-cracks visible on the surface. In the image below, the OEM version is on the right.

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-The existing E70 gear selector ribbon cable is compatible with the F-Series shift knob.
-Unless you damage the ribbon cable upon disassembly, no major gear selector disassembly is required.
-Due to the subjective nature of portions of this mod, it is required that you read instructions entirely prior to proceeding with the DIY.
-There is a handy link below that details how to disassemble and repair gear selectors.

TOOLS RECOMMENDED:
Torx Driver T8, T9, T20
Torx Socket/Wrench T25, T30
Nylon Pry Tools
Hacksaw or equivalent
Sharp Scissors
Heat Gun
Sandpaper, Fine
Clamp, C-Type
Silver Marker (to mark leather if needed)


PURCHASE GEAR SELECTOR:
-DISCLAIMER: Trial and error was required to find the appropriate gear selector, but by no means is every gear selector configuration understood. Please know there is some risk involved in purchasing a gear selector. However, I reduced this risk by selecting a 6-series gear selector that I knew was successfully being used by Dlucas589 in his E70. The gear selector I chose was from a 2012 F12 650i, P/N: 61-31-9-251-191 and is compatible. If you find other models that work, please post. Theoretically one could buy a brand new gear selector (~$900), however most of the applicable gear selectors have been superseded by gear selectors with new part numbers and it’s uncertain to know if you’ll get the one with the correct feature upon order.

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-When you remove your E70 shift knob circuit board you’ll see a ribbon cable with a unique-looking connector. The goal is to find an F-Series shift knob whose internal circuit board uses the same ribbon cable/connector as that found in our E70 gear selector. Below is an image of the F-Series ribbon cable and circuit board. The connector and ribbon cable look the same in the E70.

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-Many gear selectors look identical, but the internals vary. The correct gear selector has the little door located as shown in the image below. The E70 gear selector has the same door feature. There is a ribbon cable that goes from the circuit board in the shift knob to a circuit board located behind that plastic door. If the F-Series gear selector has this door, then it is very likely that it also has a similar ribbon cable and connector as the E70.

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-You do not need to swap ribbon cables. However, the E70 ribbon cable is much longer and you will have to creatively fold the ribbon cable carefully such as to avoid creasing it. Keep the F-series gear selector ribbon cable as a spare. Also, take caution when removing the shift knob. If you pull up with a lot force, upon disengagement, the connector could catch on the shift knob resulting in damage or breakage of the ribbon cable. At which point you’ll need to disassemble the F-series gear selector and the E-series gear selector to swap ribbon cables. Below I explain how I removed the shift knob with little force required to avoid damage.

-You’ll want to find a gear selector with a shift knob and boot that are best condition possible. This is not so easy as the images provided on ebay don’t provide the necessary detail. For instance, the one I selected looked to be in excellent condition based on the pix, however upon arrival it was a little less so. The knob itself had a few hard-to-see scuffs, general wear, and the leather needed conditioning.

-If you want a shift knob with ceramic trim you will want to buy a gear selector with this trim already included. Buying separately could get pricey unless you find a rare deal. You can get an applicable F06, F12, F13 gear selector for as little as $150USD with aluminum shift knob trim. Expect to pay more for cleaner, better quality shift knobs. There are third party CF trim layovers and replacements for reasonable prices (IE: AutoTechnic). There is an OEM CF trim replacement (P/N: 61-31-2-250-703) for an unreasonable $250. However, the RND m-logo glass and park button are compatible with any trim (aluminum, ceramic, carbon fiber). Unfortunately, without purchasing the CF trim you won’t have an m-logo on the new shifter. The actual important part is the shift knob shell b/c at the year models we’re looking at they can easily be beat up.

-Pay attention not to buy the wrong drive-side gear selector, LHD v. RHD, both types are out there on eBay.

DISCUSSION - OTHER BMW MODEL GEAR SELECTORS:
-[UPDATE] I purchased a newer 6-series gear selector w/o the door just to see what was compatible. Many parts were compatible, but the shift knob shell and circuit board connector cable were not directly compatible. The shift knob shell is compatible to an extent, but the thru hole for the fastener does not line up to the gear selector metal shaft threaded hole. You could drill your own thru-hole potentially. The circuit board in these model gear selectors uses a bundled cable, not a ribbon cable, with different connector.
- There are three types of F-Series gear selectors that I know: the shift knob style installed in this DIY, the shift knob that looks very similar to the E-Series shift knob, and DCT shift knob
-As I mentioned above at least one E70 poster was able to install a DCT version, but I have no information other than what’s posted herein.
-I strongly considered the E-style looking F-Series Shift Knob because there are carbon fiber cover options (OEM and aftermarket) available. However, the oem CF version seemed to be harder to find and more expensive. Despite looking a lot like the E-Series shift knob, they are different. Without actually doing it, I believe it too can be installed if preferred and probably a bit easier since there is no leather boot to accommodate.
-These links were invaluable when doing research, so big thanks to M.Ovidiu on youtube. The first link is Gear Selector Repair and the second link shows the Differences Between F-Series and E-Series Shift Knobs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=kr9ol8cGZIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=76jfjqFVJYY
-I discovered an OEM dry carbon fiber F-Series shift knob trim (61-31-2-250-698) that I thought would go very nicely with the leather carbon trim option in the E70 X5M. However, according to realoem, the part number doesn’t match the shift knob in the F06/F12/F13 series. They are VERY similar, but I don’t think they are compatible. It appears from images that the dry CF shift trim has an internal feature that is slightly different and possibly the overall proportions are different. I stopped there as I didn’t want to spend time and effort on it. However, it turns out this trim is compatible with some F25 (X3) and F26 (X4) gear selectors. I also found that some of the F25/F26 gear selector have the small door. However, I only had budget for one gear selector and stuck to the low-risk route of the 6-series gear selector.
- You’ll also find that some F10 5-Series gear selectors have gear selectors with the small door. I have no idea if they are compatible, but they pass the first test by having the small door.
- There are likely other models that are possibly applicable. Please post if anyone tries other variations of gear selectors that work.

REMOVE F-SERIES SHIFT KNOB:
- At upper left corner of R-N-D glass pry upwards to remove. It is only held in place by adhesive/friction.
-Remove single T8 bolt.
-Remove black LED diffuser block from shift knob.
-Pull off Aluminum/Ceramic/CF shift knob trim and P-button.
-Pull up and remove white part under P-button.
-Lift off rubber circuit board cover.
-Pull up and remove UNLOCK button assembly. Note that there is only one neon yellow damper puck.
-Gently lift up circuit board, but only lift as far up as needed to access the ribbon cable connector on back of circuit board.
-Using your fingers, disconnect ribbon cable connector from circuit board.
-Thoroughly clean all components.

Name:  3.F-Series Shifter Disassembly.JPG
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- Remove single T20 Screw fixing the shift knob shell to gear selector metal shaft.
- Remove Shift Knob Shell - **CAUTION! Risk of burn and/or injury!** This step only explains how I used a heat gun to remove the shift knob shell and is not intended as instruction. *Reference Only*
-My first step was to try removing the shift knob without using a heat gun. -I did not grab the shift knob and just pull up with excessive force as this would have likely caught on the ribbon cable connector and caused irreparable damage. However, after applying as much force with my thumbs as I could, it didn’t budge. Then I decided to use the heat gun.
- I held the shift knob with my left hand placed my thumb over the ribbon cable at the base where it comes out with the metal shaft, as to protect the cable.
-Using a heat gun on a medium-low setting [FWIW - my heat gun has a switch for high and low settings and an adjustable dial from (-) to (+). I used low switch setting with dial turned to ¾ max], I applied heat to the area where the metal shaft and plastic shift knob interface. This is an area below my thumb position. The area I concentrated was where the single T20 screw was removed. If my thumb got hot, I knew the ribbon cable was getting heated as well. I would then move the heat gun away to ensure I did not melt or damage the ribbon cable. I heated the area for less than 10 seconds.
-Holding the gear selector against my body, I positioned my hands so that I could use both of my thumbs to press against the lower shift knob away from the gear selector. This method was intended to ensure that the shift knob only moved the length of my thumb displacement. However, you can also send it flying. SO, I positioned the shift knob an inch from a wall to ensure it did not shoot off (and damage ribbon cable) from the pressure I applied. It came off much easier than expected and required only medium to low force with my thumbs.
- Remove shift knob being careful to thread ribbon cable through shift knob thru-hole.
- Once the shift knob is removed the first time, it gets easier and easier to remove requiring little effort.

PREPARE F-SERIES LEATHER BOOT:
- On F-Series gear selector, pry four (4) tabs around rectangular leather boot surround trim and separate boot assembly from gear selector. [Image shown with leather boot already removed from trim]

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- Detach glued leather from F-series gear selector trim frame. It is lightly glued to surface so use a flat nylon pry tool to start removal, then use fingers to lift all around for remainder.
-[UPDATE] Underneath the leather boot is a plastic stem piece that has a dome-featured disk. Cut the disk off at its base, so that the longest possible plastic stem remains. I used a hacksaw the first time, this is not a good solution for fine cut. The second time I bought a Suizan 5” Japanese Style Pull Saw for fine cuts. Firsts off, this tool is amazing, it only took me 4 or 5 pulls. It’s only 0.010” thick with the kerf being a bit more. You may do better, but even by hand going slowly I couldn’t get an exactly perpendicular cut to the stem centerline, but I was very close and it was a MUCH better result than with the hacksaw (see chewed hacksaw cut in image below, further below is the pull saw cut).

Name:  5.F-Series Disk and Stem.JPG
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-The leather boot had minor water stains and it can be sometimes hard to capture in pictures. See before image below, the white areas are stains not reflection. Condition leather as needed with Leatherique or equivalent. I can’t recommend Leatherique enough for this step. It is a serious conditioner and works really well on this particular piece of leather. I applied Leatherique rejuvenator on the top and back of the leather and let it sit a couple days wrapped in Saran Wrap. Then I used pristine clean to remove the rejuvenator which by this point had pushed all the dirt to the surface.

Name:  6.Leather Boot_Before-After.JPG
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E70 GEAR SELECTOR REMOVAL:
- While the leather conditioner sits, it’s time to remove the E70 shifter assembly from the vehicle.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Starting at the front left corner of the shifter surround trim, pry up the corner using a pry tool until you hear the clip disengage. Continue around the trim piece prying up clips. These clips are particularly sturdy and it requires some good effort to unclip. Be careful not to damage your interior trim when prying…place some cardboard between the pry tool and the trim.
- Use a T30 socket and drive to remove the four long screws at the corners.

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- Lift the gear selector up and disconnect the e-brake and gear selector connectors.
- Using a T-20 driver to remove four screws and lift off the aluminum trim piece that holds the e-brake module.

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-The assembly that is left is actually made of two pieces, one is the gear selector and the other is a frame. Remove the three (3) T25 screws to separate the frame from the gear selector. One screw is front center and the other two are rear left, down in a pocket. Without this step you won’t be able to remove the EDC trim.

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- From the EDC button you can follow a cable to underneath the gear selector. Disconnect this cable so that the EDC Trim can be full separated from the gear selector upon removal.
- Using a T-20 Driver, remove the three (3) screws that mount the EDC Trim to gear selector.

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-Consider wrapping the E70 EDC trim piece in 3M 2080 M22 Matte Deep Black vinyl wrap or a color of your preference. I’ve been running mine in matte black for a while b/c it just seemed to break up the bright aluminum in the center console. I recommend doing so in black because it won’t immediately draw your eye to the leather boot stuffed in the EDC trim, FWIW.

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- Installation of E70 gear selector is reverse of removal.

PROPERLY SIZE F-SERIES LEATHER BOOT FOR INSTALL:
-[UPDATE] This is a critical step to ensuring the boot sit properly. When you disassemble the shift knob from the F-Series gear selector you’ll find the leather boot assembly is held in place by friction to the bottom of the shift knob. Actually, it’s a clamping force between the shift knob shell and the boot stem bottoming out on the gear selector.
-[UPDATE] For this DIY, we need to mimic this clamped assembly so that the leather boot doesn’t sag, wobble, or sit misaligned with shift knob shell. This is accomplished by properly cut the remaining plastic stem (without disk feature) to a length that will allow it to fit snug between the installed shift knob shell and gear selector.
-[UPDATE] Next, we cut the plastic stem to proper length. If you leave the plastic stem too long, then the shift knob shell does not fully seat. If you leave the plastic stem too short then a gap between the shift knob and leather boot results.
-Note that the F-Series shift knob is fully seated on the gear selector metal shaft when the T-20 bolt thru hole on the shift knob aligns with the thread hole on the metal shaft.
-Assuming you cut the stem disk at precisely the base, then you need to remove no more than 0.300” from the remaining plastic stem. If cutting by hand you’ll likely need to assume you won’t make a perfect cut and consider the tolerance. I marked 0.300 and my cut ended up being as much as 0.315 and as little as 0.285. This worked sufficiently, however I recommend to cut a bit less and iteratively use sandpaper as needed to shorten the stem further. Also, do the math if you didn’t cut the disk precisely at the base
-At all cost, avoid cutting the stem too short
-The glued F-Series boot and shift knob are now ready for FINAL ASSEMBLY.

Name:  Marking 300 on Stem.JPG
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TRIMMING BOOT LEATHER TO FLOAT:
-[UPDATE] The objective in this step is to cut away excess boot leather. There are two methods and the preferred one depends on your craftiness
NOTE: These steps assume the plastic stem in the leather boot is cut to the appropriate length
NOTE: Cutting too much of the leather boot results in the leather edges being easily seen or pop out of the EDC trim thru-hole
NOTE: Cutting too little of the leather boot can result in the leather folding and preventing the EDC trim from being properly bolted down in place.
-Stuff the leather from the leather boot into the EDC trim and loosely position the EDC trim and boot into its place on the E70 gear selector.
-Fully install the F-Series shift knob onto E70 gear selector metal shaft. If it does not fully seat then likely the boot plastic stem has not yet been cut down or is too long.
-Ensure the boot is properly oriented with respect to shift knob.
-Pull leather slack through EDC trim such that leather just under shift knob looks relaxed.
-Bolt EDC trim in place. If you’re having trouble getting the EDC trim to seat you may need to trim some leather or ensure the leather isn’t folded. Note, only tighten the EDC trim bolts, do not torque down fully. This step serves only to clamp the leather in place so that a clamping mark remains, thus providing some reference of where to cut excess leather. Let sit a few hours.

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-After some time, remove the shift knob. Unfasten the EDC trim and separate the leather boot from the EDC trim piece and gear selector. You will see a compressed ring mark on the leather where it was clamped in place

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-[UPDATE] OPTION 1 - Using sharp scissors, cut along the outside of the ring to remove excess leather. Maybe an 1/8”-1/4” outside the ring is sufficient, but you may need to do some iteration to check for yourself. This method, with careful installation, should prevent you from clamping the leather when bolting the EDC trim. It will effectively ‘float’ in the space and allow the shift knob to operate normally. If you cut too much off at this point, you may have the cut edges showing or work themselves out of the EDC trim hole, see image below.
-[UPDATE] OPTION 2 – Another option is to remain conservative and leave plenty of leather. In this case you can expect the leather to be clamped by the EDC trim piece upon installation. Assuming there are no folds in the leather this can be done successfully. HOWEVER, you have to iterate to figure out how much leather slack to leave prior to bolting the EDC trim in place. If you clamp the leather such that it is in tension against the shift knob, then the shift knob will be fighting against the tension during normal operation, limiting its motion and not working properly. One good thing about clamping is that you don’t have to worry about the stitching ever unraveling, as is possible once you cut the seams.
-Install the boot after the EDC trim is bolted in place.

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FINAL ASSEMBLY:
-From here it goes quickly, you already did the hard part.
-Install the EDC Trim to the E70 gear selector loosely.
-Route the EDC button connector down the side of the gear selector and mate the connector.
-Install the frame back onto the gear selector using the three (3) T25 bolts.
-Install the glued F-Series shift knob and boot onto the E70 Gear Selector metal shaft.
-Fasten shift knob to shaft with the single T20 bolt.
-Push the boot leather into the EDC Trim thru-hole and mount the EDC trim using the three T20 bolts.

Name:  16.Zoom of Boot Installed in EDC.JPG
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-Install the four (4) T-20 bolts to secure the aluminum shifter surround trim.
-On the shift knob, install the UNLOCK button assembly carefully routing around ribbon cable.
-Connect ribbon cable to circuit board noting that the connector is keyed.
-[UPDATE] Simultaneously position circuit board and ensure ribbon cable is folded and not creased. The excess length of the ribbon cable should sit double folded and require a bit of attention to get right. The image below shows the first step, pushing the folded ribbon under the black plastic tab. Next, hook the second fold (near the connector) around the plastic tab and position circuit board in place. The end result is that three layers of the ribbon cable sit under the plastic tab and the connector end comes out above the black plastic tab.

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-Install rubber cover over circuit board.
-Install white part under P-Button
-Install P-button on shift knob trim cover. Consider using blue painter’s tape to hold P-button upon install of shift knob trim cover.
-Install shift knob trim cover onto shift knob.
-Install black LED diffuser block into trim cover.
-Fasten T-6 screw.
-Install RND top cover. Apply adhesive if needed.
-Install E70 gear selector back into vehicle in reverse order of disassembly.

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-END.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Upgrading E70 Shifter to F-Series Shifter_16Mar2022.pdf (4.81 MB, 6 views)
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Last edited by argento; 03-17-2022 at 09:41 AM..
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      02-21-2022, 04:33 PM   #275
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Updated Spring Install DIY in all previous posts to Rev.2, posted again below. SIGNIFICANT updates. I had to correct my upper spring pad orientation this weekend and it gave me the chance to go through the DIY. You can now scan the CHECKLIST to ID most of the tools you'll need as they are in yellow highlight. I also learned a bit more about the ISTA spring pad orientation/coding, as well as reassembly order.


DIY REV.2_E70X5M Dinan Spring Install_argento-xbimmers_21Feb2022.pdf
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Last edited by argento; 02-22-2022 at 08:59 AM..
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      02-21-2022, 11:37 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
As I wrote these instructions it became evident that there are way too many words, however your patience will be rewarded if this interests you at all. This is not a difficult DIY, but it can be tedious. Once you read the entire DIY I think you’ll realize the actual work part isn’t bad and there’s just a lot of info to communicate to help you avoid pitfalls and/or find an easier path. It took some trial and error to find a good path to final install. You may find that there are several paths, so please share if you can improve on what’s presented.

This is purely an aesthetic upgrade IMO. There is NO improvement over existing OEM hardware to be gained. If you’ve been following this thread, you know I have spent time wrapping the shift knob in black or carbon fiber vinyl. Vinyl wrapping looks decent but the edges peel over time and wrapping around the trim edge results in fitment issues. About a year and a half ago I found one poster in the classified selling his E70 who had replaced his E70 shift knob with a DCT shift knob, but after asking he claimed he’d post info but didn’t. Then recently I found another poster in the classifieds who was selling his E70 and he had an F-series shifter installed. He was happy to share the one critical detail needed to identify the applicable gear selectors in an ocean of bmw gear selector options. So HUGE thanks to dlucas589 for his effort and expense with trial and error to find the key to selecting the right gear selector for our E70s.

Final install of Carbon Fiber F-Series Shift Knob into E70 X5M:
Attachment 2812078

SUMMARY:
-Purchase a used F06, F12, or F13 Gear Selector with appropriate shifter ribbon cable.
-Remove F-Series shift knob components from gear selector. Clean components and thoroughly condition leather boot.
-Modify leather boot plastic stem and trim away excess leather.
-Remove E70 gear selector from vehicle (negative battery cable disconnected prior)
-Remove E70 Shift knob and components from E70 gear selector.
-[Optional] Wrap E70 EDC trim in matte black (or preferred color) vinyl wrap of your choice.
-Cut leather boot plastic stem to exact size or glue F-Series leather boot to F-Series shift knob
-Install F-Series shift knob and leather boot onto E70 gear selector, reassemble trim components, and install back into vehicle.

INSTALLATION NOTES:
-Once this MOD is installed, it is completely reversible and you can restore your E70 OEM shift knob at any time, without removal of the entire gear selector from the vehicle.
-Unless you purchase the expensive OEM Carbon Fiber Shifter Trim (61-31-2-250-703) you may not have the m-logo on the RND glass display. The glass display is also compatible with aluminum and ceramic shifter trims. This kit requires use of a T9 torx driver for installation. I did come across third party R-N-D displays with M-logo on eBay (search ‘bmw console gear stick selector’).
-The existing E70 ribbon cable is compatible with the F-Series shift knob.
-Unless you damage the ribbon cable upon disassembly, no major gear selector disassembly is required.
-Due to the subjective nature of portions of this mod, it is required that you read instructions entirely prior to proceeding with the DIY.
-There is a handy link below that details how to disassemble and repair gear selectors.

TOOLS RECOMMENDED:
Torx Driver T6, T9, T20
Torx Socket/Wrench T25, T30
Nylon Pry Tools
Hacksaw or equivalent
Painter’s Tape
Sharp Scissors
Heat Gun
Sandpaper, Fine
Clamp, C-Type
Adhesive (IE: 3M Gasket Adhesive, #08008)
Silver Marker (to mark leather if needed)


PURCHASE GEAR SELECTOR:
-DISCLAIMER: Trial and error was required to find the appropriate gear selector, but by no means is every gear selector configuration understood. Please know there is some risk involved in purchasing a gear selector. However, I reduced this risk by selecting a 6-series gear selector that I knew was successfully being used by Dlucas589 in his E70. The gear selector I chose was from a 2012 F12 650i, P/N: 61-31-9-251-191. If you find other models that work, please post. Theoretically one could buy a brand new gear selector (~$900), however most of the applicable gear selectors have been superseded by gear selectors with new part numbers and it’s uncertain to know if you’ll get the one with the correct feature upon order.

Attachment 2812057

-When you remove your E70 shift knob circuit board you’ll see a ribbon cable with a unique-looking connector. The goal is to find an F-Series shift knob whose internal circuit board uses the same ribbon cable/connector as that found in our E70 gear selector. Below is an image of the F-Series ribbon cable and circuit board. The connector and ribbon cable look the same in the E70.

Attachment 2812058

-Many gear selectors look identical, but the internals vary. The correct gear selector has the little door located as shown in the image below. The E70 gear selector has the same door feature. There is a ribbon cable that goes from the circuit board in the shift knob to a circuit board located behind that plastic door. If the F-Series gear selector has this door, then it is very likely that it also has a similar ribbon cable and connector as the E70.

Attachment 2812059

-You do not need to swap ribbon cables. However, the E70 ribbon cable is much longer and you will have to creatively fold the ribbon cable carefully such as to avoid creasing it. Keep the F-series gear selector ribbon cable as a spare. Also, take caution when removing the shift knob. If you pull up with a lot force, upon disengagement, the connector could catch on the shift knob resulting in damage or breakage of the ribbon cable. At which point you’ll need to disassemble the F-series gear selector and the E-series gear selector to swap ribbon cables. Below I explain how I removed the shift knob with little force required to avoid damage.

-You’ll want to find a gear selector with a shift knob and boot that are best condition possible. This is not so easy as the images provided on ebay don’t provide the necessary detail. For instance, the one I selected looked to be in excellent condition based on the pix, however upon arrival it was a little less so. The knob itself had a few hard-to-see scuffs, general wear, and the leather needed conditioning.

-If you want a shift knob with ceramic trim you will want to buy a gear selector with this trim already included. Buying separately could get pricey unless you find a rare deal. You can get an applicable F06, F12, F13 gear selector for as little as $150USD with aluminum shift knob trim. Expect to pay more for cleaner, better quality shift knobs. There are third party CF trim layovers and replacements for reasonable prices (IE: AutoTechnic). There is an OEM CF trim replacement (P/N: 61-31-2-250-703) for an unreasonable $250. However, the RND m-logo glass and park button are compatible with any trim (aluminum, ceramic, carbon fiber). Unfortunately, without purchasing the CF trim you won’t have an m-logo on the new shifter. The actual important part is the shift knob shell b/c at the year models we’re looking at they can easily be beat up.

-Pay attention not to buy the wrong drive-side gear selector, LHD v. RHD, both types are out there on eBay.

DISCUSSION - OTHER BMW MODEL GEAR SELECTORS:
- There are three types of F-Series gear selectors that I know: the shift knob style installed in this DIY, the shift knob that looks very similar to the E-Series shift knob, and DCT shift knob
-As I mentioned above at least one E70 poster was able to install a DCT version, but I have no information other than what’s posted herein.
-I strongly considered the E-style looking F-Series Shift Knob because there are carbon fiber cover options (OEM and aftermarket) available. However, the oem CF version seemed to be harder to find and more expensive. Despite looking a lot like the E-Series shift knob, they are different. Without actually doing it, I believe it too can be installed if preferred and probably a bit easier since there is no leather boot to accommodate.
-These links were invaluable when doing research, so big thanks to M.Ovidiu on youtube. The first link is Gear Selector Repair and the second link shows the Differences Between F-Series and E-Series Shift Knobs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=kr9ol8cGZIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=76jfjqFVJYY
-I discovered an OEM dry carbon fiber F-Series shift knob trim (61-31-2-250-698) that I thought would go very nicely with the leather carbon trim option in the E70 X5M. However, according to realoem, the part number doesn’t match the shift knob in the F06/F12/F13 series. They are VERY similar, but I don’t think they are compatible. It appears from images that the dry CF shift trim has an internal feature that is slightly different and possibly the overall proportions are different. I stopped there as I didn’t want to spend time and effort on it. However, it turns out this trim is compatible with some F25 (X3) and F26 (X4) gear selectors. I also found that some of the F25/F26 gear selector have the small door. However, I only had budget for one gear selector and stuck to the low-risk route of the 6-series gear selector.
- You’ll also find that some F10 5-Series gear selectors have gear selectors with the small door. I have no idea if they are compatible, but they pass the first test by having the small door.
- There are likely other models that are possibly applicable. Please post if anyone tries other variations of gear selectors that work.

REMOVE F-SERIES SHIFT KNOB:
- At upper left corner of R-N-D glass pry upwards to remove. It is only held in place by adhesive/friction.
-Remove single T6 bolt.
-Remove black LED diffuser block from shift knob.
-Pull off Aluminum/Ceramic/CF shift knob trim and P-button.
-Pull up and remove white part under P-button.
-Lift off rubber circuit board cover.
-Pull up and remove UNLOCK button assembly. Note that there is only one neon yellow damper puck.
-Gently lift up circuit board, but only lift as far up as needed to access the ribbon cable connector on back of circuit board.
-Using your fingers, disconnect ribbon cable connector from circuit board.
-Thoroughly clean all components.

Attachment 2812060

- Remove single T20 Screw fixing the shift knob shell to gear selector metal shaft.
- **CAUTION! Risk of burn and/or injury!** This step only explains how I used a heat gun to remove the shift knob and is not intended as instruction. *Reference Only*
-My first step was to try removing the shift knob without using a heat gun. -I did not grab the shift knob and just pull up with excessive force as this would have likely caught on the ribbon cable connector and caused irreparable damage. However, after applying as much force with my thumbs as I could, it didn’t budge. Then I decided to use the heat gun.
- I held the shift knob with my left hand placed my thumb over the ribbon cable at the base where it comes out with the metal shaft, as to protect the cable.
-Using a heat gun on a medium-low setting [FWIW - my heat gun has a switch for high and low settings and an adjustable dial from (-) to (+). I used low switch setting with dial turned to ¾ max], I applied heat to the area where the metal shaft and plastic shift knob interface. This is an area below my thumb position. The area I concentrated was where the single T20 screw was removed. If my thumb got hot, I knew the ribbon cable was getting heated as well. I would then move the heat gun away to ensure I did not melt or damage the ribbon cable. I heated the area for less than 10 seconds.
-Holding the gear selector against my body, I positioned my hands so that I could use both of my thumbs to press against the lower shift knob away from the gear selector. This method was intended to ensure that the shift knob only moved the length of my thumb displacement. However, you can also send it flying. SO, I positioned the shift knob an inch from a wall to ensure it did not shoot off (and damage ribbon cable) from the pressure I applied. It came off much easier than expected and required only medium to low force with my thumbs.
- Remove shift knob being careful to thread ribbon cable through shift knob thru-hole.
- Once the shift knob is removed the first time, it gets easier and easier to remove requiring little effort.

PREPARE F-SERIES LEATHER BOOT:
- On F-Series gear selector, pry four (4) tabs around rectangular leather boot surround trim and separate boot assembly from gear selector. [Image shown with leather boot already removed from trim]

Attachment 2812061

- Detach glued leather from F-series gear selector trim frame. It is lightly glued to surface so use a flat nylon pry tool to start removal, then use fingers to lift all around for remainder.
-Underneath the leather boot is a plastic stem piece that has a large dome featured disk. Cut the disk off at its base, so that the longest possible plastic stem remains. A thin blade would be best, I used a hacksaw and sandpaper. I’ve since purchased a Suizan 5” Japanese Style Pull Saw for finer cuts. NOTE: this is not the final length of the plastic stem.

Attachment 2812062

-The leather boot had minor water stains and it can be sometimes hard to capture in pictures. See before image below, the white areas are stains not reflection. Condition leather as needed with Leatherique or equivalent. I can’t recommend Leatherique enough for this step. It is a serious conditioner and works really well on this particular piece of leather. I applied Leatherique rejuvenator on the top and back of the leather and let it sit a couple days wrapped in Saran Wrap. Then I used pristine clean to remove the rejuvenator which by this point had pushed all the dirt to the surface.

Attachment 2812063

E70 GEAR SELECTOR REMOVAL:
- While the leather conditioner sits, it’s time to remove the E70 shifter assembly from the vehicle.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Starting at the front left corner of the shifter surround trim, pry up the corner using a pry tool until you hear the clip disengage. Continue around the trim piece prying up clips. These clips are particularly sturdy and it requires some good effort to unclip. Be careful not to damage your interior trim when prying…place some cardboard between the pry tool and the trim.
- Use a T30 socket and drive to remove the four long screws at the corners.

Attachment 2812064

- Lift the gear selector up and disconnect the e-brake and gear selector connectors.
- Using a T-20 driver to remove four screws and lift off the aluminum trim piece that holds the e-brake module.

Attachment 2812065

-The assembly that is left is actually made of two pieces, one is the gear selector and the other is a frame. Remove the three (3) T25 screws to separate the frame from the gear selector. One screw is front center and the other two are rear left, down in a pocket. Without this step you won’t be able to remove the EDC trim.

Attachment 2812066

- From the EDC button you can follow a cable to underneath the gear selector. Disconnect this cable so that the EDC Trim can be full separated from the gear selector upon removal.
- Using a T-20 Driver, remove the three (3) screws that mount the EDC Trim to gear selector.

Attachment 2812068

-Consider wrapping the E70 EDC trim piece in 3M 2080 M22 Matte Deep Black vinyl wrap or a color of your preference. I’ve been running mine in matte black for a while b/c it just seemed to break up the bright aluminum in the center console. I recommend doing so in black because it won’t immediately draw your eye to the leather boot stuffed in the EDC trim, FWIW.

Attachment 2812069

- Installation of E70 gear selector is reverse of removal.

PROPERLY SIZE F-SERIES LEATHER BOOT FOR INSTALL:
-When I disassembled the shift knob from the F-Series gear selector I found out the leather assembly was not fixed to the shift knob. Maybe it was supposed to be connected, I don’t know. As I understand, the F-Series leather boot, when installed fully, fits snugly against the bottom of the shift knob because the plastic stem and dome feature are properly sized such that the leather boot is clamped between the F-series gear selector and F-Series shift knob.
-For this DIY, we need to mimic this assembly so that the leather boot doesn’t sag or misalign with shift knob. This can be accomplished with the options below. I begin with Option 1, cut too much off the stem, and then out of need decided to go the Option 2 route.
-OPTION 1 - Properly cut the remaining plastic stem (without disk feature) to a length that will result in resembling the clamping of the OEM installation. IE: the leather boot will be clamped between the F-Series shift knob and E70 gear selector upon final assembly. There may be better methods than what I post below.
-Note that the F-Series shift knob is fully seated on the gear selector metal shaft when: 1) the T-20 bolt thru hole on the shift knob aligns with the thread hole on the metal shaft and 2) the metal shaft sits approx. .071” below being flush with shift knob socket.
-Assemble the F-Series leather boot and shift knob onto the E70 gear selector. The first time you do this (assuming steps above followed) the boot plastic stem will bottom out on a gear selector feature and the shift knob will not be able to be fully installed. Measure the depth the metal shaft sits below shift knob socket, subtract 0.71” and the resultant is how much to cut off the plastic stem. Account for blade thickness.
-Repeat as necessary until the exact length is found and the F-Series shift knob can be full installed such that the boot is sufficiently clamped between the E70 gear selector and F-Series Shift Knob.
- IF you’ve cut too much off the plastic stem or the boot is not clamped sufficiently, don’t worry, it’s hard to get this exact. Go to OPTION 2.
-OPTION 2 - Use adhesive to glue the leather boot to the shift knob. Perform this step only after the boot leather has been trimmed to float. This step should ideally be the last step performed before final assembly of the F-Series shift knob onto the E70 gear selector.
-Before proceeding with this step, complete ‘TRIMMING BOOT LEATHER TO FLOAT’ in the section below.
-If not already done so from OPTION 1, ensure enough of the plastic stem is removed such that the F-Series shift knob can be installed fully seated onto the E70 gear selector metal shaft.
-Use 3M Gasket Adhesive #08008 and a C-Clamp to glue the shift knob and leather boot together. Clamp for about 12 hours at room temperature. Note there may be better adhesive options out there.
-The glued F-Series boot and shift knob are now ready for FINAL ASSEMBLY.

Attachment 2812070

TRIMMING BOOT LEATHER TO FLOAT:
-The objective here is to identify and cut the exact area of leather to remove so that the leather boot “floats” freely within the EDC trim and allows the F-Series shift knob to be freely actuated in all directions. Cutting too much, then the leather edges can be easily seen or pop out of the EDC trim thru-hole. Cutting too little will result in the leather being clamped in place by the fastened EDC trim. If the leather is clamped, this will result in 1) prevention of the EDC trim from sitting flush with the aluminum e-brake trim and 2) tension that the shift knob will fight against during normal operation.
- NOTE: This step assumes the plastic stem in the leather boot is either 1) not the full length of stem resulting from disk removal earlier and/or 2) cut to the exact length via Option1 and/or 3) cut to sufficiently shorter length so as not to impede F-Series shift knob from fully being installed onto E70 gear selector.
-Stuff the leather from the leather boot into the EDC trim and loosely position the EDC trim and boot into its place on the E70 gear selector.
-Fully install the F-Series shift knob onto E70 gear selector metal shaft. If it does not fully seat then likely the boot plastic stem has not yet been cut down or is too long.
-Ensure the boot is properly oriented with respect to shift knob. Using blue painter’s tape or equivalent, secure the leather boot to the shift knob. Note the notch on the boot to accommodate the shift knob trim piece.
-Pull leather slack through EDC trim such that leather just under shift knob looks relaxed.
-Bolt EDC trim in place. If necessary, cut off excess leather outside footprint of EDC trim to allow EDC trim to be bolted in place. Let sit overnight. Note, only tighten the EDC trim bolts, do not torque down fully. This step serves only to clamp the leather in place so that a clamping mark remains, thus indicating where to cut excess leather. Torquing fully will strain the EDC trim and could cause damage.

Attachment 2812071

-After some time, remove the tape from the leather boot and shift knob. Remove the shift knob. Unfasten the EDC trim and separate the leather boot from the EDC trim piece and gear selector. You will see a compressed ring mark on the leather where it was clamped in place.

Attachment 2812072

-Using sharp scissors, cut along the outside of the ring to remove excess leather. Maybe an 1/8”-1/4” outside the ring is sufficient, but you will need to test yourself. If you cut too far outside of the ring mark, you’ll have too much excess leather and 1) once tucked in could bulge out or 2) it could get clamped by the EDC trim and impede shift knob actuation. Know that you may have to tuck the leather into the EDC trim hole after the EDC trim is bolted in place to avoid clamping any of the leather boot. If you cut too far inside of the ring, you won’t have enough leather. I don’t recommend cutting inside of the ring mark. If you do, then you risk the leather edges popping out of the EDC trim piece when actuating the shift knob during normal operation. My cut recommendations are based on trial and error after I proceeded with the leather clamped in place. Doing so resulted in the shift knob being in tension each time I tried to select a gear. Note in the images my final cut is not completely circular but only because of previous trial and error activities.
-NOTES: In the boot images below: 1) my cut is not completely circular due to previous trial and error activities and 2) my original cut was just inside the ring mark which resulted in trimming too much. So again, cut some amount outside the ring mark and I think you will be good. I completely defer to your own trial and error measurements when cutting the boot.
- OPTIONAL: On the back side of the leather, consider using adhesive on the stitching/seam to keep it from unraveling over time.
-Install the boot after the EDC trim is bolted in place.

Attachment 2812073
Attachment 2812074

FINAL ASSEMBLY:
-From here it goes quickly, you already did the hard part.
-Install the EDC Trim to the E70 gear selector loosely.
-Route the EDC button connector down the side of the gear selector and mate the connector.
-Install the frame back onto the gear selector using the three (3) T25 bolts.
-Install the glued F-Series shift knob and boot onto the E70 Gear Selector metal shaft.
-Fasten shift knob to shaft with the single T20 bolt.
-Push the boot leather into the EDC Trim thru-hole and mount the EDC trim using the three T20 bolts.

Attachment 2812075

-Install the four (4) T-20 bolts to secure the aluminum shifter surround trim.
-On the shift knob, install the UNLOCK button assembly carefully routing around ribbon cable.
-Connect ribbon cable to circuit board noting that the connector is keyed.
-Simultaneously position circuit board and ensure ribbon cable is folded and not creased. The excess length of the ribbon cable should sit double folded and require a bit of attention to get right. See image showing folding of ribbon cable as described.

Attachment 2812076

-Install rubber cover over circuit board.
-Install white part under P-Button
-Install P-button on shift knob trim cover. Consider using blue painter’s tape to hold P-button upon install of shift knob trim cover.
-Install shift knob trim cover onto shift knob.
-Install black LED diffuser block into trim cover.
-Fasten T-6 screw.
-Install RND top cover. Apply adhesive if needed.
-Install E70 gear selector back into vehicle in reverse order of disassembly.

Attachment 2812077

Attachment 2812079

Attachment 2812089

-END.
Another awesome DIY and update my friend! Thanks for posting and doing this.
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      02-22-2022, 09:29 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Another awesome DIY and update my friend! Thanks for posting and doing this.
Thanks! Seems I can't leave well enough alone, I ordered a late model F-Series gear selector (does not have the door) to see 1) If shift knob shell is compatible 2) Replace my boot, as I cut it a tiny bit too short and 3) Determined the exact cutting dimension for the boot stem now that I know how to do it 4) See what kind of connector is used on the circuit board of gear selectors w/o little door. I am wondering if the shift knob connector is correct (which would mean it's compatible) but the other end is not compatible which wouldn't matter b/c you're not re-using the F-series ribbon cable. In that case it would open up gear selectors options. IF this is true, then you could potentially order late model gear selectors with like-new components. Older model gear selectors are harder to find with unscathed components.

Worst case I fix my boot and I update the DIY with the exact dimension to cut the boot stem...which should make it easier.
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      03-04-2022, 09:30 AM   #278
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Here's my the latest stance with Dinan springs, 21" OEM 310, 20mm Rear Spacers, 12mm Front Spacers, new tires. I think the drop is around 9/16" to 5/8", so very subtle for the effort. But on the road it doesn't look too low (if there is such a thing), just a nice oem-ish stance, IMO.

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FWIW, I used the spreadsheet below to calculate gaps, spacers, bolt lengths, etc. It's based on a straight edge touching the lower tire, aligned to center cap, touching upper tire and then observing where the edge sits relative to the fender edge. Actual measurements show it pretty close within a few mm. Buying a spacer fitment kit is the more direct approach, but was too much real work for me, lol. LMK if you see any errors...

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      03-04-2022, 10:19 AM   #279
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Next on the bench....

[UPDATE: WELL, these TMS catch cans are much chunkier than I imagined. Designing a custom bracket for a clean install...]

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      03-04-2022, 10:40 AM   #280
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I think the dinan springs just dont give that nice drop but i am sure they ride better than the 1.2: H&R. Someone really needs to build some nicer riding springs for a 1.2" drop for this vehicle.
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      03-04-2022, 11:05 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
I think the dinan springs just dont give that nice drop but i am sure they ride better than the 1.2: H&R. Someone really needs to build some nicer riding springs for a 1.2" drop for this vehicle.
I can't argue with that...I will say the dinan setup is tighter and remains comfortable, even for my passengers. I used to use TCK coilovers on my E36M3 and that cars was on rails, but the ride was pretty stiff even with relatively softer springs.
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      03-04-2022, 12:21 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
I think the dinan springs just dont give that nice drop but i am sure they ride better than the 1.2: H&R. Someone really needs to build some nicer riding springs for a 1.2" drop for this vehicle.
I can't argue with that...I will say the dinan setup is tighter and remains comfortable, even for my passengers. I used to use TCK coilovers on my E36M3 and that cars was on rails, but the ride was pretty stiff even with relatively softer springs.
Yeah the ride on the H&R is stiffer, I Dolly understand why someone like Eibach didn't make lowering springs for our cars. They would have been more comfortable.
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      03-05-2022, 11:50 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Thanks! Seems I can't leave well enough alone, I ordered a late model F-Series gear selector (does not have the door) to see 1) If shift knob shell is compatible 2) Replace my boot, as I cut it a tiny bit too short and 3) Determined the exact cutting dimension for the boot stem now that I know how to do it 4) See what kind of connector is used on the circuit board of gear selectors w/o little door. I am wondering if the shift knob connector is correct (which would mean it's compatible) but the other end is not compatible which wouldn't matter b/c you're not re-using the F-series ribbon cable. In that case it would open up gear selectors options. IF this is true, then you could potentially order late model gear selectors with like-new components. Older model gear selectors are harder to find with unscathed components.

Worst case I fix my boot and I update the DIY with the exact dimension to cut the boot stem...which should make it easier.
Update on using gear selectors without the little "door"...

Lots of compatible parts like shifter trim, P-button, RND display, however here's what's not compatible: Shift knob shell doesn't align to shell mounting hole on E70 Gear selectors. Circuit Board uses a different connector entirely which connects to bundled cable, not ribbon. [Update: I should also mention that that newer model gear selector shift rod has two threaded holes so it's backwards compatible with older shift knob shells. If you can measure accurately, you could drill a thru hole so the newer shell can fit on the older gear selector.]

Bottom Line: Order gear selectors with the little 'door' as shown in the DIY above.

Now I have ceramic and aluminum F-series shift knob trims along with lots of other spare parts from this project. I ordered an ///M RND display from ebay, will update here if it fits nicely or not. Hope so, that way you don't have to spend hundred of dollars on the CF trim to get an ///M RND display.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Update on using gear selectors without the little "door"...

Lots of compatible parts like shifter trim, P-button, RND display, however here's what's not compatible: Shift knob shell doesn't align to shell mounting hole on E70 Gear selectors. Circuit Board uses a different connector entirely which connects to bundled cable, not ribbon.

Bottom Line: Order gear selectors with the little 'door' as shown in the DIY above.

Now I have ceramic and aluminum F-series shift knob trims along with lots of other spare parts from this project. I ordered an ///M RND display from ebay, will update here if it fits nicely or not. Hope so, that way you don't have to spend hundred of dollars on the CF trim to get an ///M RND display.


Attachment 2827231
Thanks for doing this bro
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      03-16-2022, 08:33 PM   #285
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I updated the F-Series Shifter DIY and PDF. Cutting the boot stem and boot leather instructions are more straight forward.

Also, here is the eBay R-N-D display vs OEM R-N-D, FWIW. The one on the right is OEM. The two are pretty close and at first glance sitting solo on a desk the eBay one looks quite real. After some close examination: the eBay version is less glossy, the m-logo is smaller, font and color differences, fit is tighter, and upon magnification there are micro-cracks in the m-logo ink. However, unless someone can point me to an oem part number, the OEM RND display only comes with the CF Shift Trim Kit for about $230. The eBay display is $20.


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      03-28-2022, 11:43 AM   #286
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Oil Pressure Gauge

Check out the super clean gauge pod Sophisticated Redneck made for my Autometer Spec. I look forward to having an oil pressure gauge once it arrives...

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