Known issues to look out for on pre-owned X5 35d

[Drewgold]

I have been a long time Audi owner but considering jumping ship and giving a BMW a try. I had been looking at Audi Q7 TDI’s of roughly the same era as the E70 X5 35d xDrive. In searching, it seems I can pick up a used X5 for a fair bit cheaper than a Q7. I also prefer the slightly smaller size of the X5. I’m also set on a diesel. Another big draw of the X5 is there seems to be a great DIY/enthusiast following. Forums for the Q7 are almost non-existent.

I have searched a bit on the forums about buying a pre-owned X5 but in most posts people just say to make sure you have warranty, not super helpful. Given the age of the E70, there’s not much warranty to be had anymore.

Looks like the Thermostat is a very common problem as well as the emissions system.

Any other major issues I should watch out for/expect? How many miles can one expect to get out of the transmission? I’m a competent DIY-er and have no trouble doing brakes, suspension, fuel pumps, window regulators, etc. Being an Audi owner I know how many small issues can pop up with aging German cars so not as concerned with things that can be DIY jobs but I don’t want to have to be replacing a transmission or tearing down an engine anytime soon.

Also interested in what options to look for/are most desirable? And curious for those who live in cold climates, any issues in cold weather? -20F/-30C or colder? I live in Canada so this is a consideration for any diesel engine.

Thanks for any help.

[Rich807]

From my limited time in one of these I've learned that one should be looking to see that any 35d E70 era target has had the following items replaced at some point:

- Harmonic Balancer
- Thermostat
- Glow Plugs

I'd highly recommend anyone that will own one of these have a quality scan tool & use it before purchase. 1 live data item I would check before purchase is the engine coolant temp as if the car isn't running at temp that can cause a cascade of other issues (glow plugs, non-regens/plugged DPF filter etc).

[T-Dubbs]

Originally Posted by Drewgold

I have been a long time Audi owner but considering jumping ship and giving a BMW a try. I had been looking at Audi Q7 TDI’s of roughly the same era as the E70 X5 35d xDrive. In searching, it seems I can pick up a used X5 for a fair bit cheaper than a Q7. I also prefer the slightly smaller size of the X5. I’m also set on a diesel. Another big draw of the X5 is there seems to be a great DIY/enthusiast following. Forums for the Q7 are almost non-existent.

I have searched a bit on the forums about buying a pre-owned X5 but in most posts people just say to make sure you have warranty, not super helpful. Given the age of the E70, there’s not much warranty to be had anymore.

Looks like the Thermostat is a very common problem as well as the emissions system.

Any other major issues I should watch out for/expect? How many miles can one expect to get out of the transmission? I’m a competent DIY-er and have no trouble doing brakes, suspension, fuel pumps, window regulators, etc. Being an Audi owner I know how many small issues can pop up with aging German cars so not as concerned with things that can be DIY jobs but I don’t want to have to be replacing a transmission or tearing down an engine anytime soon.

Also interested in what options to look for/are most desirable? And curious for those who live in cold climates, any issues in cold weather? -20F/-30C or colder? I live in Canada so this is a consideration for any diesel engine.

Thanks for any help.

Where are you located in Canada?
The only issue with cold weather that I had in Calgary, was my battery that died on the first -20 day. Weak batteries typically die as soon as it gets cold out.
Other than that, never had any issues and I park outside every night.

The emissions parts can be expensive to replace. I'm fully deleted though (no emissions laws in AB). If you decide to tune/delete it, you should do any overdue maintenance that is not referenced in the past maintenance records.

I would look for any kind of reference to regular oil changes/maintenance records. Always good to know/have. I typically put all of my used BMWs through a competent shop to see if there are any red flags before purchase.

I would only look for LCI (2010+)

[RL18]

Too add to what's been said… vacuum system, meaning upgraded lines and fittings to metal, euvs, and boost solenoids. Engines mounts might need replacing (part of vacuum system). Vcg gasket may need replacing.

Transmission will be good. But make sure you do fluid changes every 50k per zf recommendation, theres also some gaskets to replace and make sure your valve body solenoids are working and replace if needed. Fuel pump may be weak, especially if deleting because of more demand, but not a common issue to go bad. There are upgrades though… hopefully dual pumps soon. Timing chain chain if you're planning on going over 200k is a good idea.

For cold weather. I'm in Maine so winter is about 20F and below with maybe 2-3 weeks below zero where I am and I just make sure my battery is in good health. I use a ctek charger frequently when it's colder to keep the battery charged. If glow plugs or module is bad you'll have issues in cold weather starts, but not common unless thermostat is bad and not replaced. I use optilube winter blend fuel additive to keep the fuel flowing all winter (it's actually a mixture of optilube products which I run year round but I'm extra). Starts the best of any vehicle I've owned and heats up pretty quick too for a diesel.

Lastly I would delete if you can, that way you don't need to worry about the emissions system going wrong

[Best4x4xFar]

Originally Posted by RL18

Starts the best of any vehicle I've owned and heats up pretty quick too for a diesel.

Those Electric Aux heaters make it seem like it heats up almost as soon as you start to drive

[Attacking Mid]

I'm only 6 mnths into my diesel adventure, but so far the emissions system has been the biggest issue (but I anticipated that). I had my DEF transfer pump off to fix last week and now I'm getting the active tank heating error. New active tank repair kit on the way.

The electronics systems are more complex than anything I've owned before, so still somewhere on that learning curve. The plastic underbelly panels are a hassle to R&R. Multiple different fasteners and must be overlapped properly. If you like jigsaw puzzles, you'll love it!

All my research indicated the emissions systems were the only real weakness of the vehicle - especially if you do too much short-trip driving. I mostly wanted one to pull my camper trailer, and it works wonderfully for that! I expect to drive this beast for a long time.

AM.

[robinasu]

The door vapor barriers come loose and depending on the angle of parking, will cause water to enter under the carpet, where it will dry very slowly, if at all. The rear hatch cable grommets also leak and water finds its way to the driver side tail light area where it kills some modules- so watch for that one.

I would add, if you have to do a big job like taking the intake off for glow plugs, swap out stuff that hasn't been changed and is a common failure. In this case, the LP-EGR pressure converter, vacuum lines, CBU clean, and maybe the valve cover gasket. For a thermostat, change water pump, belts, etc.

I would second having the transmission mechatronics unit rebuilt if you are changing the bridge seals and have to take it off anyway.

With these vehicles, your time, labor, etc, I think you come out ahead long term with PM.

[Best4x4xFar]

Originally Posted by robinasu

I would second having the transmission mechatronics unit rebuilt if you are changing the bridge seals and have to take it off anyway.

With these vehicles, your time, labor, etc, I think you come out ahead long term with PM.

Meaning replacing the valve body solenoids? Replacing fluid/pan and bridge seals is on my list, been debating the worth of doing the valve body solenoids as well..

[crystalworks]

^ I'd skip the valve body rebuild unless there are shifting issues. Do the pan/filter, mech sleeve, bridge seal, and tube seals. Fill with Valvoline Maxlife multivehicle (synthetic red bottle, not the blue one). ZF LG6 is very thin and the aged seals struggle to maintain pressures using it... unless it was serviced every 60-80k miles from new as ZF recommends.

In 40,000 miles of ownership I have done:

1. Glow plugs/module
2. Rebuild active DEF tank
3. Replace 2 NOX sensors
4. Replaced transmission (failed E clutch bearing/bushing)
5. Replaced vacuum lines
6. Water pump and thermostat
7. Belts
8. Vacuum reservoir (PM)
9. Pressure converters (PM)
10. Full brake job
11. AGM battery
12. Full suspension rebuild (failed foam bushings causing clunking/creaking at shock towers)
13. Belts, idlers, and tensioner pulleys (PM)
14. 1 set of tires
15. Fuel filter
16. Valve body rebuild before installing replacement trans
17. Motor mounts
18. Transmission/transfer case mount

Total cost over that time period for parts is $7320 with me doing all work. Couldn't imagine the cost of ownership if you had to pay someone to do this work. The trans alone would be the greater part of $10k I imagine. Do I enjoy the vehicle? Yes, a lot. Very solid vehicle and have taken it on family road trips multiple times.

Edit: We bought the vehicle 3/2017 with 136k miles on it. Doubt the trans had ever been serviced which is why the E clutch issue happened. Forgot to mention we did have the valve body rebuilt (sonnax zip kit) before installing a replacement trans. Vehicle is currently not starting to do incorrect DEF fluid countdown exceeded code. Need to order an ICOM to reprogram the DDE and clear that. This BMW has by far been the hardest one to keep on the road, but still glad we bought it. It's well spec'd and looks great. After resolving the DDE issue it should be a solid vehicle again.

[robinasu]

Originally Posted by Best4x4xFar

Meaning replacing the valve body solenoids? Replacing fluid/pan and bridge seals is on my list, been debating the worth of doing the valve body solenoids as well..

Yes. I've done all the bridge seals and fluid/filter changes myself- should have at least replaced the solenoids while there. Not much more effort to nuke any future problems in that area. If I was to do it again, I would send the mechatronics unit out to be rebuilt or use a zip kit and be done with it considering it's a pain to get back in there if something misbehaves and 90% of the 6HP problems are from the mechatronic unit. My assumption is you want to keep the vehicle long term.

In my case the first transmission oil change was at 100k (done by me) and the vehicle is in good overall condition, so I will keep it until it dies.

[rcendo]

I have been on my journey for a few months. I started with a 100k checklist that I put together after researching various posts for the most common issues and routine maintenance ( 105K today)

I have replaced the top oil line to turbo - J line - that addressed the oil leak (at least so far) that started a few weeks ago. From what I understand those are common and it was pretty straight forward to replace.

Thermostat is not pushing past 74C according to both the "hidden" key trick to put the temp on the dash and BimmerLink live test. Thermostat I just got today. Off to stealership tomorrow to get coolant and enjoy my weekend under the hood. I will do the CCV hose while I am there as they are prone to crack.

I have a motor mount that will need replacing. I am having an experience finding a trustworthy indy shop at present as I have no desire to tackle that.

I did oil and oil filter change along with air filter about a month ago.

Fuel filter will be next after the thermostat.

Rear brakes on the horizon.


I knew what I was getting into when I bought it but she is a beast and fun to drive to work- my drive is about 25 miles one way all highway - especially in the crazy metro I live in.

[Rich807]

Well guys. I got the point where it was just too much to keep pumping $$s into my E70. If mine had been deleted when I got it I'd have prolly stuck with fixing things here & there as I truly loved the 35d drive. Shops in my area, even indy ones, are terrible so stuff I couldn't do myself was highly susceptible of rip off from indy shop work here. Sucks but is what it is. Had to stop throwing substantial good $s after bad.

Good luck everyone / enjoy your X5 rides.

[Nyc Dito]

The OP never checked back in, I wonder if they picked one up.

40k miles in my ownership over a couple of years and on stock emissions but with a "stage 1" and I'm still loving my 35D.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by rcendo

I have a motor mount that will need replacing. I am having an experience finding a trustworthy indy shop at present as I have no desire to tackle that.

I forgot to put that on my list. I also did motor mounts and trans/transfer case mount recently. Lots of maintenance was done during the transmission swap. The mounts made a huge difference in noise/rattles in the cabin after 168k on the original.