08-12-2021, 09:17 AM | #1 |
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2010 X5 no start no crank
Hello all,
My 2010 X5 3.0i will not start. Put key in ignition, push start button, normal beeps, but will not turn over at all. Pretty much no sound beyond electronic beeping. Thinking it might be the battery, I installed a new, fully charged battery to no avail. Also checked for grounding problem by connecting a jumper cable from the grounding nut to the engine. No luck. Tried to have it towed. Used the emergency orange handle into the cupholder spot, and turned it from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock while pushing down. Did not shift into neutral. Pushing down on the handle did not seem to do anything. Accidentally engaged the parking brake and could not get it to disengage, so used the orange handle to manually release. Any ideas? Thanks |
08-23-2021, 12:38 PM | #3 |
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Okay, after a bit of diagnosis, I have the following:
134K miles Replaced battery and registered new battery. Fuses all seem to be good (checked with Ohm meter). Codes: 00A0B4 (CAS: Engine start, starter operation) 00A82E (GWS: Interlock E faulty): Lock for manual gate defective Suggestion is to replace S227a Gear selector switch I suspect the GWS fault (gear shifter fault) is what is not allowing it to get out of park for towing. The CAS fault is likely the starter motor. Any ideas about how to get the car into neutral with the GWS fault? Thanks |
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08-23-2021, 01:07 PM | #4 |
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I have used the Manual Lock Release that is on the transmission itself. It is a screw that puts the transmission into Neutral regardless of electronics. I had to do this when I had my car in pieces and needed to move it. The Video below demonstrates multiple ways of putting the car into neutral when there is a transmission issue.
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09-09-2021, 02:11 PM | #6 |
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Having same issue now-2013 X5 (90k miles)no start no crank
Stranded my wife at the Vet when she went to p/u dog after operation-both crying when I got there ! Tried to jump no luck-all kind of messages on dash and I drive screen.At the indie now.He says has good voltage from battery-on board computer will not communicate. Bad ground (seems to be common issue),relay issue were all guess's. If it gets going it getting traded ! Oh and tow truck driver called to tell me he could not find a "red tool" when he went to get it.Never had one as far as I know,hope he saw the crawl underneath and do the allen screw thing |
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09-10-2021, 02:15 PM | #7 |
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Its fixed,the damn ground at the motor mount.
Runs great, off to car max and sell this POS before the next stupid thing goes wrong-those grounds should be replaced every 40k miles I guess, just in case.Total with tow700 bucks and lesson learned. Hope this helps someone else |
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09-10-2021, 08:46 PM | #8 |
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Yea the ground strap seems to be in a spot susceptible to corrosion for those of us in the northeast. Had it happen to my car when I was out of town. 2011+ can only be put into neutral using the screw on the bottom of the transmission. Had to towed on a dolly to the local dealer who wanted to charge me $2500+ for a new DME. Had it towed to my shop in NJ, and the problem was found and fixed in a few hours. The tow sucked, but I’m not gonna complain about a $100 fix
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12-21-2021, 08:48 AM | #9 |
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Neutral issue
reading this post, i see that some of you used the park release under the car, i did the same thing, my question is, how do you put it back in park? My car is doing the no crank no start, had to get it towed but wasnt able to put it into neutral till it was back at my house. i used the screw under the trans to force it in neutral in case i had to move it, now i cant figure out if i need to do anything with it to get it back into park. any suggestions? also, where is the engine grounding strap that should be checked, i think this is one of my issues with the starting. thank you in advance.
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12-22-2021, 08:25 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Two ground cables, by drivers side front wheel well, close to transfer case, difficult to get to without removing the wheel and fender well. Second is on muffler bolts, usually on drivers side. Easy way to test if it is a ground issue is to pickup battery cable from autoparts house and bolt to a solid ground (one of the bolts in the front cross brace in engine compartment is a good place) and a good sized engine bolt, every sub model is different but in general any bolt with a 13mm or larger head will work, 10mm can work with the right washer. Just make sure this is a bolt that goes deep into the the engine block or head itself. If issues go away when you add this extra cable, you know what your original problem was and can proceed to replace the bad ground cable or just leave your new add-on ground cable in place. |
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01-06-2022, 11:15 AM | #12 |
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So, 2 questions, I have the e70 engine, 2011 x5 35d, so a diesel. How many volts should my fuel pump receive to start? And, this is stupid, when checking the fuel pump under the passenger side seat, I do not see a fuel line coming out, where does it exit? Thank you in advance!
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01-07-2022, 06:44 AM | #13 |
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Ok, I was messing with the pump yesterday and saw the fuel line attached inside the fuel tank, I thought a fuel line had disconnected because there were not attached to the connection points on top of fuel pump. I am getting 10v +/- when cranking car but fuel pump does not seem to be turning on. I tried swapping out the control module but still only 10v to pump. Any suggestions?
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01-01-2023, 02:10 PM | #14 | |
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Was this the ground straps that were bad? Trying to figure out why my 2013 x5 50i will not start. Thought battery but replaced good voltage. Someone told me engine blew, that I need a new engine! This is crazy |
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01-01-2023, 02:11 PM | #15 |
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Was this the ground straps? Having same issue with my 2013 x5 50i, will not start. One person told me engine is blown, that I need a new enigine! That is crazy to me.
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