06-22-2021, 09:41 AM | #1 |
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Cooling Upgrades for x5m e70
Living in the desert is mostly riddled with cons, but the one con, in particular, that really sets things apart for turbocharged cars, is the heat.
As we all know, the S63 doesn't respond well to heat and lots of parts fail and need replacement in the process. I'm looking for advice on the best way to mitigate that issue; whether it's aftermarket parts or home DIY stuff and I believe the forum is a good way to keep those things documented. I've personally done the following: 1. switch the original thermostat to a 90C thermostat https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...37586885-90c~/ 2. turbo blanket https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/col...5-m-x6-m-m5-m6 3. Removed the back engine cover and weather stripping Share your thoughts and advice on what else can be done to help engine live longer and survive in horrible temps. (I sincerely apologize if this topic has been previously discussed; I'm just looking to compile it all in one thread) |
06-22-2021, 01:24 PM | #2 |
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Waterwetter has a new pre-mixed coolant. There are documented 10-20deg drops in temp, with this fluid alone.
If it meets the spec, I'd recommend it. Other wise, you can do more of a 70/30mix of water to coolant and waterwetter additive. |
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06-22-2021, 02:58 PM | #3 |
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There's also the lower temp oil cooler valve.
https://n63intake.com/collections/be...l-cooler-valve You could also wrap/ceramic coat your cats. |
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06-22-2021, 04:49 PM | #4 | |
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1 - If you haven't already, trim rain gutters down 1/2" inch where is meets the hood, this allows for addition airflow and still allows proper water defection. 2 - Cut and Rivet heat shielding to to fit under factory turbo oil heat sheild. 3- Wrap Manifolds in 1" wrap. 4- Wrap Downpipes/cats in 2" wrap 5- Cut heat shielding to size to fit underneath stock oil catch pan/heat shield under turbos. 6 - Cut heat shielding to size to fit on top of turbo/cat main heat shield. 7 - This is also an excellent time to replace the head to head coolant line and wrap it in heat shielding (which always goes bad) and turbo/pressure converter vacuum lines and update the plastic T fittings on the turbo coolant lines to stainless steel. Here is what you will need 2 x DEI 1" wrap (for manifolds): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4XL2Q 2 x DEI 2" wrap (for downpipes/cats): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4U72I 1 X Stainless steel ties: https://www.amazon.com/SunplusTrade-.../dp/B072WC1MXT 1 x Locking tie tool: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine.../dp/*****U1UOI 1 x Heat Shielding for engine valley and turbo shield:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YJERW40 |
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06-22-2021, 07:34 PM | #5 |
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Go Cat-less Downpipes if you can. The catalytic converter generates a large amount of the heat in the engine bay and going cat-less will significantly reduce under hood temperatures.
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06-24-2021, 01:49 AM | #7 | |
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I'm going with carless downpipes soon... So I guess 1" wrap will be a better option for that. |
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06-24-2021, 01:50 AM | #8 | |
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You are a blessing to this community! I've been through most of your posts and I can't thank you enough! I'll definitely go through this list and follow all of this! |
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06-24-2021, 01:51 AM | #9 |
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06-24-2021, 09:55 AM | #10 |
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I wouldn’t recommend removing the “back engine cover and weather stripping” if you mean the plastic engine partition. They serve a purpose to keep the rain out of the engine bay. The water does over time damage injectors and electrical components as well as corrode the engine bolts. Unless you plan to never drive it in the rain. I cant say if it lowers under hood temps a meaningful amount as I don’t recall anyone doing before and after measurements. Just some anecdotal reports. Unlike some of the other mods like hood louvres.
The lower temp oil cooler is fine in the summer. But could keep oil temps too low in the winter to burn off water/fuel. There are downsides to this mod. No downsides on the low temp thermostat as far as I can tell. No downsides on a turbo blanket Catless dp, makes it hard to pass inspection if you have a state that requires it. Personally I’ve done, low temp coolant thermostat, turbo blanket, and heat shielding on oil and coolant lines. I run mine in pretty extreme conditions most of the time and these mods seem to be fine. I tow in 100+ heat at full throttle for long stretches. |
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06-24-2021, 10:49 AM | #11 |
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06-24-2021, 11:52 AM | #12 | |
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I also used wireless thermal probes to conduct highway, city, and parked temps. I recorded a 20 degree drop on average in city driving, highway would run cooler partition-less much sooner, but the biggest difference is actually in parked temps. It shaves 30-40 degrees depending on the location in the engine compartment. When I conducted the tests it was 116 out. With the partitions in place and the engine bay reached 220-240 degrees after 15min parked and stayed in that range for hours. With the back partition removed and the gutters trimmed, peak temps were 167-190 degrees in the engine compartment. It also cooled down to ambient temps on average 3 hours earlier then with the partitions. This is when most of the high temp oxidative damage to all the plastic and rubber bits under the hood occurs. It does have its downsides, there will be more dust and dirt allowed into the engine compartment, you will hear your injectors clicking away (as well as sweet turbo noises!) and I do not know how snow would effect it as being in Phoenix, I have only seen pictures of that white stuff. But for us desert dwellers where heat is the number one enemy of our cars and trucks, I highly recommend it. Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 06-24-2021 at 12:08 PM.. |
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06-29-2021, 06:47 AM | #13 |
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Just do the lower temps tstat and clean out your coolers. I am here in a high heat and high humidity and very harsh environment (125f air temps, Ground temps are higher) and my X5M never even reaches half for the oil temps and runs cooler as far as water temps are concerned. Also I used one bottle of water wetter in the turbo coolant and 2 in the radiator as well.
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06-29-2021, 07:15 AM | #14 | |
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I will comment that the low temp thermostat and turbo blanket have noticeably reduced underhood temps. I remember after towing opening the hood I'd be welcomed with a blast of heat. Now I don't feel anything but I know its warm in there. Anecdotal I know. My X5M is used mostly as a tow vehicle and burns 0 oil and was generally healthy before the mods. It has 66K miles now. I've been running a low temp t-stat on this car for 1.5 years, and a turbo blanket for 1+ years, and heat sheilding over the turbo lines. Though all of my turbo coolant lines, oil lines, and oil return block seals have been replaced before I added the turbo blanket. Also had to replace the electric turbo cooling pump. |
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07-03-2021, 02:21 PM | #15 |
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I do NOT recommend VRSF Down pipes for the S63. I have a separate thread on my experience with them. Pain in the Ass and did not fit for me, with install attempt done by a BMW/MB specialty tuning shop.
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07-03-2021, 06:56 PM | #16 | |
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07-15-2021, 07:20 AM | #17 |
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07-15-2021, 07:25 AM | #18 | |
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Sometimes I get the "itch" to step on the gas a little; I worry about the heat ruining the internals slowly but surely. So, whatever helps it last longer, I'd do it. Good to hear from you |
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07-15-2021, 12:53 PM | #20 |
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So bad it made me write an article about it to spare others the frustration. I mean you already have other people saying the same thing so not sure what other proof you need. I would hate for you to try it and experience the same thing
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07-16-2021, 05:40 PM | #21 |
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Great suggestions in here, I've done many and will be doing more from this post. What I didn't see is running Evans Waterless coolant, which I've been running for about 4yrs now. Slightly expensive but ZERO pressure on BMW's notorious use of shitty, brittle plastics. I've driven from Seattle to Hollywood to Vegas (Bimmerfest trips) and countless places in between, currently have 144k and around 700hp, all without cooling issues.
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07-16-2021, 07:11 PM | #22 | |
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- 2 rolls of 1"x50' header wrap...seems like a lot but then again I'll be wrapping S63TU manifolds - 2 rolls of 2"x50' DP wrap...I've already wrapped mine but wasn't sure if it was used elsewhere while you're at it - 100 SS exhaust cable ties...I used safety wire from work but this would probably work better - your locking tool link is broken but I found "Design Engineering 010220 Locking Tie Tool" - 1 sheet measuring 42" x 24" or 7 sq ft...you just lay this in the valley pan before putting the turbos back in?
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