argento's alpine white X5M

[argento]

Originally Posted by boneca

beautiful tips
I remember paying $400 for Akra tips 3 years ago.

(sigh) I over-invested in tips. Oh well, it just kinda happened and I got a very nice product. In hindsight Akra tips would have been perfect...OR the tips 9vapors linked...those are nicely priced!

I recently looked at the Supersprint setup that 0-60Motorsport referenced...really like Supersprint, used to run them on my E36M3 (but was already in these).

[quick]

Originally Posted by argento

Here are the tips I'm planning to install soon. .

Would these fit stock OEM exhaust and how big are they as compared to the stock pipes?

[argento]

Originally Posted by quick

Would these fit stock OEM exhaust and how big are they as compared to the stock pipes?

Good question. These are 3.5" (~90mm) outer diameter. Stock tips are 3.125" OD (~80mm). The pipe side of the tip is 2.5"OD. I measured the OEM pipe to be 2.35"OD, so (depending on stock pipe wall thickness) the installer will need to flare/swedge the OEM side just a tad to slip these in and weld (common practice).

[quick]

Do these stick past the stock rear diffuser? I am asking all these questions as I just bought a '12 X5M AW/Merino Interior (?) myself too

[argento]

Originally Posted by quick

Do these stick past the stock rear diffuser? I am asking all these questions as I just bought a '12 X5M AW/Merino Interior (?) myself too

I haven't installed them yet, and my guess is yes they stick out. I plan to have them as close to flush as allows. Will let you know. If too much then it's a reason for a vorsteiner diffuser.

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

Here are the tips I'm planning to install soon. I originally purchased DiMisa tips in black powdercoat. The powdercoat turned out to be polyester based, which is what I think they use on outdoor furniture. Tips appear to be great quality. I decided to coat them in a thermal ceramic coating for longevity. At this point I had already spent more than one should on tips, but made it worse to get them coated. Took them to Houston Cerakoters and they were extremely helpful and fair. Tips looked amazing. They want to get into more auto part coating and asked to photoshoot the //M after install...I left that place and 3 minutes later had the accident :-|

Attachment 1979731

Attachment 1979732

Attachment 1979733

A little about cerakote: 9H pencil hardness; low coef friction results in 5000 wear cycles for each thousandth of thickness; tested in salt solution for rust resistance; 160 in-lb of impact force with no cracking/flaking.

Those look great bud.

[argento]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Those look great bud.

Thanks! You should post some pix of your E46M3...I used to have an 03 in Sterling Grey/Black.

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

Thanks! You should post some pix of your E46M3...I used to have an 03 in Sterling Grey/Black.

Here's an old thread with pics

Some New Pics of my M3 aka DARTH VADER https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721092

[argento]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Here's an old thread with pics

Some New Pics of my M3 aka DARTH VADER https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721092

Outstanding! Amazingly clean, looks like day 1. I spent countless hours on mine. Love that you take care of it so nicely.

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

Outstanding! Amazingly clean, looks like day 1. I spent countless hours on mine. Love that you take care of it so nicely.

Thank you brother. It's a few years old, that shoot. Will have to take some newer pics soon since the weather is nice and not 125f LOL

[argento]

Updated Post #46 with this information:


LESSONS LEARNED UPDATES 17FEB2019
7. Maximum Policy Value. There are usually two policies that will be used in a claim: Property and Personal Injury. Before going to for ASK what the policy holder's maximum policy value is for Property. In my case, I find out at the end that the maximum property policy value is $25K. All the repairs ended up costing just under that and it left me holding the bag for the $650 ceramic coat AND the diminished value claim. You have two choices at this point. 1) Sue the driver that is responsible for the accident or 2) Check your own policy to see if you're covered for UNINSURED/UNDERINSURED MOTORIST COVERAGE (property/personal injury). In my case, opening a claim on U/UM does not impact my policy or my zero claim discount. You need to know this value before you start. Luckily all the supplemental claims on my repair had been paid, if not then I might have received a bill from the shop for the remaining cost. Make sure you have this coverage and make sure you know the maximum value so you and the shop can plan appropriately.

8. Rental Car, Again. This cost goes against the property policy, so in my case $36XX of rental car was used with 6-7 weeks of that due to the Insurance Company's investigation. If the property policy is low, manage this aspect. See if your policy will cover this w/o impacting you negatively. There might even be some separate coverage for rental car on your personal policy.

[argento]

2013 E70 X5M INTERIOR LED DIY INSTALL

NOTES
-THANKS to everyone on this forum who wrote DIYs and provided tips, as well as the NEWTISINFO website. I suggest you search and read as many DIYs as you can. If you find a better way to do something or have additional information, then post and share here.
-THERE are various types of LEDs that work and each with varying costs. I used entirely OEM LEDs, as such, this approach is not the cheapest method of LED light swap. I have no errors. The F85 footwell lights appear overbearing in the photos. These light the footwell area pretty well and do not exactly match the bluish light style of the OEM LED Kit.
-THIS approach swaps in four F85 X5M Footwell LED lights in lieu of the four E70 X5M Footwell lights. Then I used the OEM LED Lighting Kit (10pc) to swap the remainder. It didn’t go exactly as planned, because I was one round LED short and had one flat LED extra. I used door projector kits, purchased used from the classifieds section, in the door locations. I will soon replace the visor lights with the OEM LED Kit.

TOOLS
-THE two tools shown are all that is really needed. I actually used other shaped pry tools, but kept coming back to the BSW tool. The pick was only used for the upper rear lights and the pliers for the visor lights.



INTERIOR OEM LIGHT LOCATIONS & QUANTITIES

OEM Bulb Style, All Locations:

(1) Glovebox Light – in glovebox, Qty.1 bulb, 12V/5W
(2) Front Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(3) Front Ceiling Light (Roof Switch Unit) – front, center console on headliner, with two reading lights and one dome light, Qty.3 bulbs, 12V/5W
(4) Mirror/Visor Lights – on headlinder behind folded visor, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(5) Interior Rear Ceiling Lights – above each rear door on headliner, includes lighting and reading light each side, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W
(6) Luggage/Trunk Hatch Lights – interior side of hatch, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(7) Rear Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, under seat bench, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(8) Footwell Door Lights - bottom of door panel, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W

PARTS
Qty.4, 63-31-7-941-911, F/R Footwell, F85 LED Light
Qty.1, 63-12-2-212-788, OEM LED Interior Light Kit; Qty.6 round LEDs (overhead lights); Qty.4 flat LEDs (footwell lights)

Qty.2, 63-31-2-414-105, OEM LED Projector Light Kit; Qty.2 per Kit

Qty.1, 63-12-2-351-265, OEM LED Interior Lamp Kit, Qty.2


GLOVEBOX LIGHT INSTALLATION
-I don’t have the DVD and it appeared the DVD trim cover was in the way, so I removed it.

-TO remove the light, you’re supposed to pry down the light starting from the right side. However this was not as simple as it seems b/c the light is in there very tight, at least on my car. And there was little space to maneuver with tools. Using the BSW pry tool, I wedged to wedge both sides of the light down enough for me to get my fingers on it and pull down. Start on the right side and use wedge end of the bsw pry tool (not forked end) oriented so the tool is perpendicular to the dvd cover trim opening. Push the tool forward while wedging the tool between the light and the cutout. This will drop that end of the light down a small bit. I repeated for other side of light. Then I could grab and pull it straight down and out. Very tight fit.

-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face down when installed. Also take care to ensure the LED is not touching the metal surround on the light fixture…if it touches it will blow the F2 fuse, located under the passenger side dash. If needed, remove lower passenger side dash cover (one phillip screw and two T-20 screws), lower fuse box (one green phillips screw), and replace F2 fuse (10A, ATC Fuse type). Press light fixture back in place and reinstall DVD trim cover.


FRONT/REAR FOOTWELL LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location and/or black surround frame. Use the prytool to remove. The rear footwell lights have this detent on the lense part…there is no need to remove the black surround frame.
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the F85 X5M light fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The F85 light fixture has two pins, align the E70 connector to the F85 light fixture, ignore the keying of the E70 light connector. Shown below installed.



FRONT CEILING LIGHT (ROOF SWITCH UNIT) INSTALLATION
-REMOVE U-shaped trim surrounding dome light. Use the pry tool to open a gap and insert an old credit card. Push forward and down and it pops off. You then have access to the two clips holding the unit to the headliner. Unlatch the clips and pull the front of the unit down with unit hinged from rear. I did not remove unit and replaced bulbs with unit hanging.


-THERE are three bulb locations, see image of OEM bulbs installed. Rotate the bulb holder 90 degrees and pull out bulb. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install.


-INSTALLATION of unit is reverse of removal, but on my vehicle pushing the unit into place is not enough to engage clips. Note that to the outside and next to each exposed front clip is a rectangle hole in the unit. Using the wedge side of the pry tool, insert tool into the hole and push upwards with force until you hear the click. Repeat for opposite side clip. Ensure the unit is sufficiently installed. Reinstall U-shaped trim surround.

MIRROR/VISOR LIGHT INSTALLATION
The visor light can be easily pried down, front of vehicle to back using the nylon tool. You will need Qty.2 two-pole LED Kit p/n: 63-12-2-351-265 from BMW. These are shorter than the OEM original bulb, so take the pliers and bend the tangs on the visor light inward until they accommodate the LED bulb taught. You don't want the LED bulb loose or moving around or you'll get blinking. The tangs appear to be tough, but just pay attention and proceed cautiously. The pliers I show allowed me to plant them at the base of the tang and bend inward allowing support at the base while bending...avoid pulling upward.




INTERIOR REAR CEILING LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-I was one bulb short. RealOEM shows I can purchase one bulb, but the part number doesn't show up on ECS Tuning or advantagebmwparts.com (local dealer site with discount).
-EACH rear light fixture is installed into a metal rectangular frame which is fixed to the headliner.


-TO remove you will use the pry tool and the pick. The TiS removal image doesn’t tell the whole story, see below. First wedge the pry tool oriented 90 degrees from what’s shown in the TiS image. Friction will keep the pry tool in place and allows you to use both hands in the next step. As shown in the image below, the clip can barely be seen in the headliner. Insert the pick (straight red arrow) as shown and pry clip away from metal rectangular frame. Simultaneously, with other hand, pull down on light fixture (clip end) until released.


-THERE are two bulb holders. Rotate them 90 degrees and remove. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install. The rear light is installed in reverse order of removal.

LUGGAGE/TRUNK HATCH LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the trunk hatch location. Use the prytool to remove.
-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face outward from the hatch when installed. Image shows one LED light installed.


FOOTWELL DOOR LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-THESE lights are found on the bottom of the door panel. One edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location . Use the prytool to remove. Note that the connector cable for the light may appear to be very short. I was able to pull the connector cable carefully to expose additional slack (about an inch).
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the OEM Light Projector fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The Projector Light fixtures have two pins, align the E70 connector to the Projector Light fixture pins and ignore the keying of the E70 light connector.

FINAL IMAGES

[boneca]

Originally Posted by argento

2013 E70 X5M INTERIOR LED DIY INSTALL

NOTES
-THANKS to everyone on this forum who wrote DIYs and provided tips, as well as the NEWTISINFO website. I suggest you search and read as many DIYs as you can. If you find a better way to do something or have additional information, then post and share here.
-THERE are various types of LEDs that work and each with varying costs. I used entirely OEM LEDs, as such, this approach is not the cheapest method of LED light swap. I have no errors. The F85 footwell lights appear overbearing in the photos. These light the footwell area pretty well and do not exactly match the bluish light style of the OEM LED Kit.
-THIS approach swaps in four F85 X5M Footwell LED lights in lieu of the four E70 X5M Footwell lights. Then I used the OEM LED Lighting Kit (10pc) to swap the remainder. It didn’t go exactly as planned, because I was one round LED short and had one flat LED extra. I used door projector kits, purchased used from the classifieds section, in the door locations. I will soon replace the visor lights with the OEM LED Kit.

TOOLS
-THE two tools shown are all that is really needed. I actually used other shaped pry tools, but kept coming back to the BSW tool. The pick was only used for the upper rear lights.

Attachment 1992823

INTERIOR OEM LIGHT LOCATIONS & QUANTITIES
Attachment 1992832
OEM Bulb Style, All Locations:
Attachment 1992839
(1) Glovebox Light – in glovebox, Qty.1 bulb, 12V/5W
(2) Front Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(3) Front Ceiling Light (Roof Switch Unit) – front, center console on headliner, with two reading lights and one dome light, Qty.3 bulbs, 12V/5W
(4) Mirror/Visor Lights – on headlinder behind folded visor, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(5) Interior Rear Ceiling Lights – above each rear door on headliner, includes lighting and reading light each side, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W
(6) Luggage/Trunk Hatch Lights – interior side of hatch, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(7) Rear Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, under seat bench, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(8) Footwell Door Lights - bottom of door panel, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W

PARTS
Qty.4, 63-31-7-941-911, F/R Footwell, F85 LED Light
Qty.1, 63-12-2-212-788, OEM LED Interior Light Kit; Qty.6 round LEDs; Qty.4 flat LEDs
Attachment 1992816
Qty.2, 63-31-2-414-105, OEM LED Projector Light Kit; Qty.2 per Kit
Attachment 1992833
Qty.1, 63-12-2-351-265, OEM LED Interior Lamp Kit, Qty.2
Attachment 1992836

GLOVEBOX LIGHT INSTALLATION
-I don’t have the DVD and it appeared the DVD trim cover was in the way, so I removed it.
Attachment 1992814 Attachment 1992819
-TO remove the light, you’re supposed to pry down the light starting from the right side. However this was not as simple as it seems b/c the light is in there very tight, at least on my car. And there was little space to maneuver with tools. Using the BSW pry tool, I wedged to wedge both sides of the light down enough for me to get my fingers on it and pull down. Start on the right side and use wedge end of the bsw pry tool (not forked end) oriented so the tool is perpendicular to the dvd cover trim opening. Push the tool forward while wedging the tool between the light and the cutout. This will drop that end of the light down a small bit. I repeated for other side of light. Then I could grab and pull it straight down and out. Very tight fit.
Attachment 1992815
-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face down when installed. Also take care to ensure the LED is not touching the metal surround on the light fixture…if it touches it will blow the F2 fuse, located under the passenger side dash. If needed, remove lower passenger side dash cover (one phillip screw and two T-20 screws), lower fuse box (one green phillips screw), and replace F2 fuse (10A, ATC Fuse type). Press light fixture back in place and reinstall DVD trim cover.
Attachment 1992820

FRONT/REAR FOOTWELL LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location and/or black surround frame. Use the prytool to remove. The rear footwell lights have this detent on the lense part…there is no need to remove the black surround frame.
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the F85 X5M light fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The F85 light fixture has two pins, align the E70 connector to the F85 light fixture, ignore the keying of the E70 light connector. Shown below installed.
Attachment 1992829


FRONT CEILING LIGHT (ROOF SWITCH UNIT) INSTALLATION
-REMOVE U-shaped trim surrounding dome light. Use the pry tool to open a gap and insert an old credit card. Push forward and down and it pops off. You then have access to the two clips holding the unit to the headliner. Unlatch the clips and pull the front of the unit down with unit hinged from rear. I did not remove unit and replaced bulbs with unit hanging.
Attachment 1992813 Attachment 1992826

-THERE are three bulb locations, see image of OEM bulbs installed. Rotate the bulb holder 90 degrees and pull out bulb. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install.
Attachment 1992825

-INSTALLATION of unit is reverse of removal, but on my vehicle pushing the unit into place is not enough to engage clips. Note that to the outside and next to each exposed front clip is a rectangle hole in the unit. Using the wedge side of the pry tool, insert tool into the hole and push upwards with force until you hear the click. Repeat for opposite side clip. Ensure the unit is sufficiently installed. Reinstall U-shaped trim surround.

MIRROR/VISOR LIGHT INSTALLATION
[COLOR="Red"]-TBD[/COLOR]

INTERIOR REAR CEILING LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-EACH rear light fixture is installed into a metal rectangular frame which is fixed to the headliner.
Attachment 1992835 Attachment 1992824

-TO remove you will use the pry tool and the pick. The TiS removal image doesn’t tell the whole story, see below. First wedge the pry tool oriented 90 degrees from what’s shown in the TiS image. Friction will keep the pry tool in place and allows you to use both hands in the next step. As shown in the image below, the clip can barely be seen in the headliner. Insert the pick (straight red arrow) as shown and pry clip away from metal rectangular frame. Simultaneously, with other hand, pull down on light fixture (clip end) until released.
Attachment 1992834

-THERE are two bulb holders. Rotate them 90 degrees and remove. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install. The rear light is installed in reverse order of removal.

LUGGAGE/TRUNK HATCH LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the trunk hatch location. Use the prytool to remove.
-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face outward from the hatch when installed. Image shows one LED light installed.
Attachment 1992818

FOOTWELL DOOR LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-THESE lights are found on the bottom of the door panel. One edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location . Use the prytool to remove. Note that the connector cable for the light may appear to be very short. I was able to pull the connector cable carefully to expose additional slack (about an inch).
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the OEM Light Projector fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The Projector Light fixtures have two pins, align the E70 connector to the Projector Light fixture pins and ignore the keying of the E70 light connector.

FINAL IMAGES
Attachment 1992830

Attachment 1992831

good info here!

I will probably replace my internal LED lights again, I've done it once before few years ago but used aftermarket lights and most of them are flickering now.

[9vapors]

I did the same lights and door projectors... the ones in the back seats are a bear... I cursed a lot while removing those.

[argento]

Originally Posted by boneca

good info here!

I will probably replace my internal LED lights again, I've done it once before few years ago but used aftermarket lights and most of them are flickering now.

I also did the reverse lights. I bought a new set of CREE R4XP-E and one always set off the light malfunction error, but both worked just fine. I bought an unknown set from a user here that claimed no errors and installed those. First install I hit an error, but I then added dielectric grease to both and no errors. If someone wants the CREEs I'll send them to you free (conus).

Originally Posted by 9vapors

I did the same lights and door projectors... the ones in the back seats are a bear... I cursed a lot while removing those.

Yes, first try was awful. Using the pick made a huge difference, out in seconds.

[0-60Motorsports]

Nice DIY on the interior LEDs. used DESAUTOKEY interior LED bulbs and they are great.

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Nice DIY on the interior LEDs. used DESAUTOKEY interior LED bulbs and they are great.

I just grabbed a $35 kit off of eBay, but they've been error free and nice and bright...

[argento]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

I just grabbed a $35 kit off of eBay, but they've been error free and nice and bright...

I seem to have bad luck with aftermarket LEDs. The reverse light LEDs I installed one day without errors, next day threw errors. I checked polarity, greased them, etc. I just removed them...now I have 2 sets sitting on the bench if anyone needs.

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Nice DIY on the interior LEDs. used DESAUTOKEY interior LED bulbs and they are great.

Good to know MFG that is error-free. Thanks!


BTW, I removed the front bumper yesterday to install new PDC o-rings. Seems the shop painted over my PDC o-rings, but over time the paint will crack. A lot of work for o-rings, but it was bothering me each time I walked to the car. Removing isn't difficult with a helper, mostly bolted...you just have to be careful with the six tabs between the front bumper and L/R fender interface.

[9vapors]

Yeah, the kit I bought was just for the interior and license plate lights. The reverse LEDs in mine were constantly getting errors as well in mine. I ended up just swapping them back to stock. If you do find some that don't error, please share.

[Colodano]

Can you get to any of the pdc sensors without removing the bumper? One of my center ones popped in from the snow we had last week, so I need to pop it back in.

[argento]

Originally Posted by Colodano

Can you get to any of the pdc sensors without removing the bumper? One of my center ones popped in from the snow we had last week, so I need to pop it back in.

Not 100% sure, but I think so. I would do the following:

First remove these 8mm bolted bumper connections: 6 underneath, 1 each side behind reflector, 1 each side at wheelwell bottom). Leave the 6-8 bolts on top (just behind kidney grills)...for now.

At the wheelwell bolt, the bumper tab overlaps the wheelwell cover and insert. Uncouple the bumper tab from the wheelwell cover at that area.

You should now have enough play in the lower bumper to push the lower edge forward and get your arm to reach in and pop the PDC back in. DO NOT pull the bumper forward too hard or you'll break the tabs between the bumper and fender interface. These tabs are definitely not fragile, but different people have different ideas of force (leaving the top bolts should mitigate you breaking clips)

If you still need more room, you may try to remove the 6-8 bumper bolts on top (just behind kidney grills at the black trim)...but watch the clips.

Note, you're also only clips away from having the whole thing off. CAUTION, if you plan to remove the bumper and remove connectors definitely disconnect the negative battery cable so you don't get errors for the side camera that require coding to remove.

Good luck.

UPDATED:

[Colodano]

Thanks, very helpful! Luckily mine is a 2010, no lower side cameras!