X5M turbo coolant pipe leak?

[Dawgz]

Are these the two Y connections? I would have thought they are refered to as T connections.

[pearlpower]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Are these the two Y connections? I would have thought they are refered to as T connections.

No, the Y connector is for the head to head connection under the intake pipes., pictured on the 1st page of this thread.

[Dawgz]

Coming back to this.

Will be putting on PureTurbos soon so going to do some of this preventative work.

Found this Y (8mm) that looks very similar to the OEM plastic piece there, and has a bead at the edge so the clamp can stay put.



https://www.amazon.com/QFS-FTY-516-Q...678820&sr=8-38

[Dawgz]

The Y fitting is delivered.

[Dawgz]

The OD seems to be a little larger than 5/16.

5/16 is the ID from the measurements. Should still work. Will be a tight fit.

Also I called the company that makes it, they said the material is Nickel plated steel.

So, shouldn't rust.

[Dawgz]

Going to return the nickel plated steel Y fitting.


Ordered this one instead (below). Exact same fitting but it's stainless steel. A bit overkill in price also @ $47 shipped but I think it's worth it.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=90892

[Wally303]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Going to return the nickel plated steel Y fitting.


Ordered this one instead (below). Exact same fitting but it's stainless steel. A bit overkill in price also @ $47 shipped but I think it's worth it.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=90892

I'm assuming you went with the 5/16 Y fitting? Looking to order the parts to do this soon... Thank you all for this thread as I have been hunting a coolant smell for weeks!

[Ahmedbmwx6me71]

I need a help
I have x6m e71 2013 ,
I checked log error and found :"charging pressure control, boost pressure too low" 0030FF and 310B: Boost Pressure Control 2, Plausibility Fault.
what will I do ?

[Dawgz]

So I finally got around to taking the stock Turbos out to install the Stage 2 Pureturbos, noticed some nice coolant caked on the oil return lines and noticed the plastic Y that everyone talks about, pretty much falling apart as soon as you touch it. Cant believe this is plastic.

[Dawgz]

Well, that took a bit to fish out the broken pieces from the tubes.

Stainless steel Y is now in, crimped correctly.

[Dawgz]

Also, the stock Y has a super smaller ID.

5/16 or 3/8 is more than enough, double the size really.

[argento]

Really helpful info. Is the Y fitting pressurized or can you remove in place w/o a lot of spill? Did you happen to take a wider view pic to orient myself to that location? TIA

Funny - I have the exact same calipers...bought like in '97...

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by argento

Really helpful info. Is the Y fitting pressurized or can you remove in place w/o a lot of spill? Did you happen to take a wider view pic to orient myself to that location? TIA

Funny - I have the exact same calipers...bought like in '97...

It's not pressurized, however as soon as you remove each of the three tubes from the Y fitting, face the tube upwards as it does spill some coolant. You can cap the tube with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YJYQJM9...ing=UTF8&psc=1

(Like I did in the pic below).

This Y fitting is accessable in two ways, either you remove the alternator or the turbos.

Removing the alternator might actually give you much better room to work on it.

[heatmizr]

So, I guess it's my time to visit this issue thread... MY 2012 @68k miles (e70 X5 50i ).
My Turbo Coolant Supply lines are leaking at the infamous T junction. (Return lines were already replaced 20k mi ago. Probably need to do those again next year!)
Of course the dealer suggested replacing all 4 lines for $300 in parts and $500 in labor.

After reading this and other threads I am going to just replace the two hoses leaking now with some high quality silicone heater hose, upgrade to a metal T junction, and install Oetiker style clamps. If I can't fit the Oetiker crimping tool on the bottom/turbo end of the left supply hose I will opt for a quality screw clamp there.

Here is the parts list I am buying:
Blue Silicone heater hose 3/8 ID (sold by the foot, I'm getting 2 ft)
Brass T for 3/8 hose
Oetiker tool/clamp Set - this has both the 18.5 and 21mm size clamps others referenced needing

Maybe I will buy a similar brass Y junction to have on hand for the lower cross-bank hoses. Since the Valve Stem Seals were replaced under Warranty 2 yrs / 10k mi ago, it was replaced at that time and hopefully has a few more years on it. Looks like a bitch to get to.

BTW - some guys are looking for metal T- and Y- junctions, Pelican parts seems to carry a couple brands and this one actually already has the metal junction in it.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...SVSI=5507&fs=0
Can search site for "Turbo coolant hoses" for the others once you punch in the vehicle info.

[heatmizr]

*COMPLETED* FOLLOW UP NOTES: (for e70 X5 50i )
- I found the actual replacement of two hoses and the T joint very easy to accomplish.
- I couldn't reach a couple of the Oetiker clamp crimps but a tiny screwdriver allowed me to pry apart the clamps themselves easily enough. Then bend them and remove.
- I did not drain coolant prior, and only lost a little but not more than the couple paper towels underneath could handle.

- It wasn't apparent until I had it apart and was reconnecting the supply line from the radiator, but all the hoses are LARGER on the end at the T than they are at the other ends. Tapered hoses?! WTF BMW! I bought hoses and T that matched the diameters of the smaller ends. So the one hose I didn't replace (supply line from the radiator [the black one]) is larger than the brass T (see second pic). Not a big deal I think, flow would be limited by the smaller ends (though, I suppose there ARE two of them...).
To mitigate I used two Oetiker clamps and tightened them as much as I could. BTW I used the "15.3-18.5mm" size clamps for ALL connections.
This will likely be my next leak, so will monitor and replace that one hose all the way to the radiator when needed. It looks like a pain but doable.

- Once complete I performed the secret "coolant circuit bleed procedure" (see last pic below) but I am not even sure if it applies to the TURBO coolant pump, or only the main pump. With the noise from the HVAC fan, I could NOT tell if either coolant pump was running or not. So, I did it twice to try to make sure (with battery trickle charger connected). No codes or lights after a couple errand trips so assuming it's good to go??? I have no idea how to know for sure. I did not monitor or even look at the coolant expansion tank as indicated in the below instructions, maybe this would have helped.

I'll be getting on the highway soon under more load and will check after. I put a fresh paper towel under there and left the plastic engine cover off for now. When I am satisfied it's ok I will button it up.

[GregWX5]

For those who had the Y-Connector leak, did you replace the entire PN 17127589731 or just did the Y connector? How hard is it to access the 3 hose connections if replacing the entire assembly? How hard is it to remove the Alternator?

[My135i]

Originally Posted by GregWX5

For those who had the Y-Connector leak, did you replace the entire PN 17127589731 or just did the Y connector? How hard is it to access the 3 hose connections if replacing the entire assembly? How hard is it to remove the Alternator?

Replacing the entire assembly will definitely take some time! I was able to just break the clamp and replaced it with T brass by removing that small intake box because i got small hands.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by GregWX5

For those who had the Y-Connector leak, did you replace the entire PN 17127589731 or just did the Y connector? How hard is it to access the 3 hose connections if replacing the entire assembly? How hard is it to remove the Alternator?

Removing the alternator is not to bad, just a tight fit, lots of hoses you have to work it around. Recommended replacing entire assembly if the hoses are getting dried out, otherwise just y connector works.

[GregWX5]

Originally Posted by My135i

Replacing the entire assembly will definitely take some time! I was able to just break the clamp and replaced it with T brass by removing that small intake box because i got small hands.

By only removing the small intake box do you mean removing the two larger hoses and curved plastic charged intake air line and you were able to see the Y-connector and install new clamps and brass fitting?

Would you happen to have any pictures?

[GregWX5]

I replaced the upper lines after observing considerable coolant leaking onto some aluminum foil I placed to monitor how much is leaking. Used some 3/8" lines from Autozone, i think this was some high grade fuel line because they didn't have coolant line available in 3/8". Mine is a 2010 X5M built in July 2009, currently at 140,000 miles. Both of my fittings were already metal T's with bleed screws. I just trimmed the ends that were leaking and only replaced the small "tapered" section with the new line. Installed the 3/8" ne wline onto the T-fitting off the car since this was a tight fit (placed the end in some boiling water and used a tiny drop of dish soap to stretch it on).

Holding up good for about a week now, but I think my Y-fittings is leaking so need to try that next.

Before:

[My135i]

Originally Posted by GregWX5

By only removing the small intake box do you mean removing the two larger hoses and curved plastic charged intake air line and you were able to see the Y-connector and install new clamps and brass fitting?

Would you happen to have any pictures?

Yes! You'll have enough room to replace that plastic T fittings with brass Tee from Home Depot!

[My135i]

Originally Posted by My135i

Yes! You'll have enough room to replace that plastic T fittings with brass Tee from Home Depot!

Brass Tee