argento's alpine white X5M

[argento]

Hadn't posted in a while, awaiting some mods to be shipped. Quick pic of dirty car through dirty office window…

[argento]

For anyone considering this MOD, I updated the F-Series Shifter DIY on Pg.13, Post #274. I added a section at the end "FINAL BOOT ADJUSTMENT", pdf also attached below.

Basically, once it's installed and even though completely functional, the shifting may not be as smooth as you expected. This is because the leather boot may have too much tension. The added update explains a quick method to fine tune the leather boot tension.

Upgrading E70 Shifter to F-Series Shifter_5June2022.pdf

[argento]

REPOST from General X5 (E70) Forum:

Some details on one E70 system phone/music operations. Gave me a chance to test what I can/can't do...

I have a May 2013 build X5M and after purchase I found out the previous owner deactivated the combox (B840316 Service Action). Being overzealous with my new purchase I decided to reactivate the combox. Looking at my notes it appears I bought a new combox: p/n: 84-10-2-447-926, Combox 4G, Option S609A (navigation) = YES and S639A (prep for mobile phone) = YES. I must have either a) had an older combox and went all in with latest revision or b) the old one was removed…I don’t recall. I purchased the ConnectedDrive subscription and all worked as advertised, the bmw apps, office etc. However, it was clear they are no longer really supported and news/apps were out of date.

Then I purchased a used universal bmw iPhone Snap-In Adapter (p/n: 84-21-2-365-786) with lightning connector…this is off an F15, popped right in.

I did all this thinking I would gain some significant capability, but in reality I don’t really use any of this that much, especially now with an Android Monitor. However, here are the capabilities my car does have with respect to phone/music usage:

IPHONE XR BLUETOOTH TURNED OFF (3 configurations):

1. With key in ignition, engine off: If I plug the iphone into the snap-in adapter lightning cable.
-On OEM display, in CD/MULTIMEDIA>External Devices, it shows the USB Icon “Reading…”; Snap-In Icon “Reading…”; BT icon “Not Connected”



-My iPhone got a notification saying it was incompatible w/o the BMW Combox App. I hit the button to search for the app, but nothing appears and I assume it is NLA. I wish I had screen shot this notification, it hasn’t returned since.

-The display Snap-In Icon then shows connected to my iphone and displays my iphone name; Click on it.



-It takes you to a menu I’ve rarely seen, likely b/c I never use this function. It’s the “USB: My Iphone” menu and it displays 5 icons for action while displaying the song in my Vox (player) app. NOTE: I recommend the Vox app (or equivalent) as it has a nice parametric equalizer that allows you to make needed adjustments and save the settings.



-The 5 options are BACK, FORWARD, VIDEO, PLAYLIST, SEARCH, CURRENT SONG.
-The song is playing only through my iphone speaker, not the car speakers.
-The connection does charge my iphone, so I left the snap-in adapter in place.

2. With key in ignition, engine off: I plug an apple lightning to USB cable from my iphone to the glovebox USB.
-On OEM display, in CD/MULTIMEDIA>External Devices, it shows the USB Icon “Reading…”; Snap-In Icon “Reading…”; BT icon “Not Connected”.
-Then they all display “Not Connected”.
-I press the PLUG IN icon and the next menu window says device not compatible

3. With key in ignition, engine off: I plug an apple lightning to USB cable from my iphone to the center console USB.
-On OEM display, in CD/MULTIMEDIA>External Devices, it shows the USB Icon “Reading…”; Snap-In Icon “Reading…”; BT icon “Not Connected”.
-The display USB Icon then shows connected to my iphone and displays my iphone name; I click on it.
-It takes me to the “USB: My Iphone” menu and it displays 5 icons for action while displaying the song in my Vox (player) app.
-Music plays through my car speakers.



IPHONE XR BLUETOOTH TURNED ON:

1. With key in ignition, engine off:
-Make sure you’ve previously paired your phone to the car.
-Wait for BT to connect to BMW BT module.
-NOTE: If you had BT connected on your last trip, it automatically connects at restart w/o any menu actions needed. Otherwise activate as follows…
-Under CD/Multimedia menu click “Bluetooth (audio)”. Note in the image the External Devices menu is also displayed and shows my iphone already connected to Bluetooth.



-It takes you to the Bluetooth (audio) menu where your phone(s) are listed and should show your current phone connected. Next to your phone you should see the phone icon and musical note icon in bold.



-If the musical note icon is greyed out, click the OPTIONS button on your idrive, then scroll and click on CONFIGURE PHONE, and ensure ‘telephone’ and ‘audio’ are checked and select OK.





-Return to CD/Multimedia menu and you should see a speaker icon next to “External Devices”, click it.



-It takes you back to the ‘External Device’ menu where you see the check mark next to the Bluetooth icon and your phone’s name. Click it.



-It takes you to the “Phone: My iPhone” menu and displays the current song with action icons for FORWARD and BACK to select the song.



-Music plays through my car speakers.

[argento]

FWIW, BMW Ultimate Car Care Oil Service for BMWs that have reached 60 months or 60k miles, 3 years prepaid for $199. I asked and it's one a year max for three years plus the first one. Four total.

https://bmwusaservice.com/ultimatecare

Car at shop this week: oil service, 90C tstat, prev maint water pump, fluid flush, new battery.

Finally working on catch cans and oil pressure gauge.

[argento]

Was recently experiencing some intermittent sagging in the right rear and one morning I woke up to it fully bottomed out. This DIY is almost entirely covered by the Arnott video that you can find online and I reference below, There is also an ISTA procedure if you have access to ISTA. Not a lot of new insight in this post, but here it is anyway...

After installation and vehicle sitting for about 12hours, I had more sagging. I had to get back in there because I didn't tighten the banjo bolts enough...I was too light handed and didn't want to strip the delrin thread. But you need to bottom them out.

DIY provided for reference only. Use all safety precautions necessary.


1. REFERENCE: Arnott Air Spring DIY:

2. COMPONENTS: Rear Pneumatic Air Spring, OEM P/N: 37-12-6-790-083, Qty.2 (Includes new gaiters, banjo bolts, and ferrules which are unneeded unless these specific vehicle components are damaged)

3. PREPARATION:
- Set vehicle with steering aligned straight ahead
- Measure normal vehicle height of rear fender from the floor
- Remove battery cover and disconnect negative battery cable.
- Place a rag in the latch pocket to prevent the rear hatch from closing and then requiring access from the rear seats to open again.
- Remove trunk carpet lining, or just enough to be able to peel carpet lining and see the tops of the air springs on each side. This will help during installation.
- Raise rear axle and place vehicle on jack stands. Ensure jack stands are tall enough to allow easy access to air supply system and underbody panel below the front passenger side.
- Remove the rear wheels

4. DEPRESSURIZE SYSTEM, NON-ISTA METHOD:
- Under front passenger side, remove air supply system underbody panel. You’ll need a pry tool, 10mm socket and ratchet wrench, and 8mm driver
- Identify the solenoid valve for the air supply system. The red air hose is connected to the left rear (driver side) air spring. The blue air hose to the right rear (passenger side) air spring.
- Disconnect the solenoid connector for easier access to valve nuts.
- Sufficiently loosen the valve nut for one of the air hoses with 10mm brake line wrench or equivalent. Allow the air spring to depressurize, approx. 5 minutes. Confirm the air spring associated with that air hose has deflated.
- Repeat for the second air hose on the solenoid valve.
- Leave solenoid air hoses depressurized until air springs are installed. This allows the air spring to be manually deflated, if needed, during installation. In other words, to more easily press into place between control arm and chassis

5. AIR SPRING REMOVAL:
- The air spring to be removed should be somewhat deflated to allow air spring to be compressed for removal.
- From underneath the air spring (under control arm), use a long flat head screwdriver to press each locking tab (2) while simultaneously pushing the lower air spring Delrin cup upward until the lower air spring is unclipped from the control arm. ISTA recommends to only use your hands to leverage lower cup towards the front and/or side. However, I found a nylon pry tool can help leverage the air spring lower cup upward as you press the tabs. Leaving the pry tool in place may also help prevent the lower cup from snapping back into the locked position as you work on top cup removal.
- Examine how the top of the air spring is locked into the chassis by viewing from the trunk. This will provide clearer understanding of quarter rotation direction for air spring removal.
- ISTA identifies that removing the upper air spring from the chassis is done by rotating the air spring counterclockwise, however this is relative by viewing the air spring from beneath or under the control arm.
- Rotate the entire air spring quarter turn while pulling downward to disengage air spring from chassis. It should rotate and remove easily. If not, access from the trunk area may help to disengage.
- The air supply hose is connected to the top of the air spring by banjo bolt. Note that air hose slack is limited.
- On the driver side air spring, pull bottom of air spring toward brake caliper and rotate air spring by turning 90 degrees so that the top of the air spring points toward the rear of the vehicle. Rest the air spring on the control arm. TAKE CARE to note tension in air hose connected to air spring and that the upstream air hose is clipped to the chassis and may require unclipping for additional slack.
- On the passenger side, pull bottom of air spring toward brake caliper and rotate air spring by turning 90 degrees so the top of the air spring points toward the front of the vehicle. Rest the air spring on the control arm. TAKE CARE to note tension in air hose connected to air spring and that the upstream air hose is clipped to the chassis and may require unclipping for slack.
- Use a 10mm brake line wrench to remove banjo bolt for each air spring. Do not allow banjo bolt and air hose to get contaminated.
- Disconnect the gaiter from the air spring. It is held in place by friction. The air spring is free to remove from vehicle. Please NOTE: 1) The gaiter is fixed to the air hose/banjo bolt and they cannot be separated without cutting the gaiter or removing banjo bolt by cutting ferrule off the air hose. 2) To install a new gaiter, the banjo bolt ferrule must be cut off the air hose. A new banjo bolt and ferrule must then be installed onto the air supply hose after the air hose has been threaded through the hole on the new gaiter. Avoid this unless the gaiter and/or banjo bolt are damaged.

6. AIR SPRING INSTALLATION:
- The new air spring comes with new banjo bolt and ferrule threaded into Delrin upper cup. Remove new banjo bolt and ferrule from new air spring. The plastic clip in the banjo bolt is only to hold the bolt and ferrule together prior to assembly. It is not part of the installation.
- Apply soapy water to gaiter and air spring to more easily install gaiter onto air spring. Ensure gaiter hole and air hose are aligned to snap slot in air spring upper Delrin cup to capture air hose. Do not snap in air hose at this time.
- Hand thread the banjo bolt into the air spring.
- Tighten the banjo bolt using a 10mm brake line wrench or equivalent.
- Snap air hose into capture slot on air spring. If not done, the air hose could be crushed at final assembly.
- Return the air spring back between the chassis and control arm aligned such that the upper Delrin cup can be inserted and then locked into the chassis via quarter turn. NOTE: 1) Prior to installing the air spring, it is helpful to visually identify the air spring orientation needed when air spring is seated between the chassis and control arm just prior to quarter rotation. 2) Avoid returning air spring in such an alignment where the lower air spring Delrin cup locking tabs align with the control arm and then prematurely lock in place before being able to lock upper Delrin cup. 3) It is useful to get the upper alignment close from under the vehicle, then take advantage of the trunk access to get final alignment correct.
- With the upper portion locked in place, the lower Delrin cup is now properly aligned and can be pressed downward to lock in seated position on control arm.
- Ensure air spring rolling lobe is properly shaped and seated on lower section of air spring before proceeding to repressurize

7. REPRESSURIZE, NON-ISTA METHOD:
- Reconnect and tighten the valve nuts to the solenoid valve
- Reconnect the solenoid valve electrical connector
- Install underbody panel
- Reinstall the wheels and torque (140 Nm)
- Lower the vehicle with a jack until the fender sits approximately two inches below the normal vehicle height measured at the start. DO NOT lower the vehicle completely or you may damage the air springs.
- Connect the negative battery cable
- Start the vehicle
- Wait approximately 3-5 minutes for the air supply system to complete pressurization of air springs and lift the vehicle to normal height.
- Once normal height is steadily achieved, then continue lowering jack fully to remove. If lowering jack results in lowering vehicle, then pressurization may not be complete.
- On vehicles with BMW Active Front Steering (AFS), set Steering Angle. 1) A “4x4” malfunction warning will appear on the instrument cluster once the negative battery cable is reconnected and engine started. 2) Turn steering wheel left to full lock. 3) Turn steering wheel right to full lock. 4) Turn steering wheel to central position. 5) Turn off Engine. 6) After procedure, the “4x4” malfunction warning on instrument cluster disappears.


NOTE:
-Measure and monitor rear ride height over next few days to determine if ride height remains steady over long period of inactivity, indicating no leaks in the system

[argento]

FWIW: Dinan Spring Install Ride Height Update:


After replacing my rear air springs this month (Nov.2022) my ride heights have finally settled and are accurate and repeatable values. In the FRONT I'm at a ride height of of 727mm (measured from the lower rim lip through center cap to the fender per ISTA+). I don't think I ever measured the pre-install ride height accurately, but suffice to say it's a minimum of 0.5" drop and maximum of 0.75" drop. The REAR is a bit more complicated b/c I was trying to get it just right during install, but with rear air springs compromised (unbeknownst to me) it was a moving target. I caved and just took it in and had them adjust the rear to 718mm (measured from the lower rim lip to the fender per ISTA+). The 718mm was based on, again, math with bad air springs. With new air springs and now a steady ride height the rear ultimately sits 1/4" below the front. Honestly, it looks good enough to leave as-is. Taking measurements per ISTA+ removes the parked surface from the equation...while my garage looks flat, it's not.

[JellyStyle]

Originally Posted by argento

FWIW: Dinan Spring Install Ride Height Update:


After replacing my rear air springs this month (Nov.2022) my ride heights have finally settled and are accurate and repeatable values. In the FRONT I'm at a ride height of of 727mm (measured from the lower rim lip through center cap to the fender per ISTA+). I don't think I ever measured the pre-install ride height accurately, but suffice to say it's a minimum of 0.5" drop and maximum of 0.75" drop. The REAR is a bit more complicated b/c I was trying to get it just right during install, but with rear air springs compromised (unbeknownst to me) it was a moving target. I caved and just took it in and had them adjust the rear to 718mm (measured from the lower rim lip to the fender per ISTA+). The 718mm was based on, again, math with bad air springs. With new air springs and now a steady ride height the rear ultimately sits 1/4" below the front. Honestly, it looks good enough to leave as-is. Taking measurements per ISTA+ removes the parked surface from the equation...while my garage looks flat, it's not.

Good to know; about to embark on a major build like yourself on a 2013 X5M, do you have someone at your BMW dealer (finance dept) that you worked with for the warranty? I'd like to look into that as well, how has the warranty been since you got it (any more claims or issues?)?

I am wondering if your dealer will do an out-of-state sale.. I can tell them you sent me.. Read all these pages, you're an amazing builder and poster, a whole new level.

Did you ever install your Akra exhaust? Pics? which system did you go with?

Joe

[JellyStyle]

Originally Posted by argento

FWIW, BMW Ultimate Car Care Oil Service for BMWs that have reached 60 months or 60k miles, 3 years prepaid for $199. I asked and it's one a year max for three years plus the first one. Four total.

https://bmwusaservice.com/ultimatecare

Car at shop this week: oil service, 90C tstat, prev maint water pump, fluid flush, new battery.

Finally working on catch cans and oil pressure gauge.

For the S63, don't you need to do the 3 port setup that Sophisticated Redneck did? I highly recommend his setup, will prevent a ton of issues for the S63.. I am in process of building it too.

[argento]

He and I communicate on this topic. He recommends, but I only have 39k miles, no leaks, light duty, and a very good oil analysis report. I think I can wait for the -10psi vacuum from a 3 port setup. Besides I just finally have all the pieces for my 2-port setup and don’t want to start ordering parts all over, lol. I can add later. With that said, you definitely want to hear him out on any topic regarding these engines. *respect*

[argento]

I know everyone has their favorite leather products, there are so many available. My favorite for the past 20+ years has been Leatherique mainly because it leaves the leather like-new, not wet and glossy. Between leatherique application I use Zaino Z9 (cleaner) and Z10 Leather in a bottle, mainly because it's the closest to new leather smell I've found and folks get in my car and always mention the 'new car smell'...but it's just the Z10.

But recently ordering leatherique pristine clean has been problematic as it arrives with chunks of white product as if it has been sitting around for years and started caking together. I notify the vendor, they send more and it's the same. Different vendors, same issue. It clogs up a spray bottle or worse yet can get in your leather perforations. I wasn't really looking, but stumbled across a new (to me) product and was impressed with the process, recommendations, and ease of application. When I use leatherique I can leave rejuvinator soaking for days (For those not familiar with leatherique, it's a two phase process. You first apply the rejuvinator product, soak in warm cabin for a minimum of hours, them remove with pristine clean).

[UPDATE 12/2/2023: IF you don’t wipe up excess Protector it will leave a white residue after drying. Use more protector to wipe over the white residue and don’t leave any excess behind. So it's really annoying to apply and walk out next day w white residue on the seats. It wipes off easy BUT you don’t want to use a dry towel to polish your leather too much bc over time it will smooth the leather and make it look glossy (the micro folds and wrinkles in the leather deflect light making it look flat from the factory). Per the mfg the Protoector product is good for the leather, but gotta say Leatherique Rejuvinator is still my go-to for a deep conditioning. This Colourlock cleaner remains pretty exceptional at cleaning, especially if you haven't cleaned your leather in years or ever.]

FWIW I purchased Colourlock's mild cleaner and protector kit. The cleaner does exactly that and the protector provides the enzymes needed to keep the leather supple over time. They have a Shield product, but that is recommended for newer leather, less than 3 years old. And they also have a Heavy Cleaner.

https://www.colourlock.com/Smooth-Le...ctor/32004-en/

The kiit is offered in 150ml or 1000ml, I purchased the latter. I ended up using at least 2oz (60ml) of cleaner for both front seats. The kit comes with cleaner, protector, brush, foam applicator, two white soft cloth, and 4oz foam dispenser for cleaner.

CLEANING LEATHER: After using compressed air to blow out particles from seams, apply the cleaner to the foam pad or the brush, not directly on surface. For this first time use, I decided to clean thoroughly and use the brush. Lots of videos of them using the brush on softer looking BMW and Ferrari type leathers, so wasn't too concerned about applying to the Merino. I brushed in circles using LIGHT pressure, which for me was just the weight of the brush effectively. I did the whole seat bottom, then wiped it clean with a damp microfiber towel and moved on. I was suprirsed at the dirt I picked up in some places considering I treat the leather several times a year. The armrests seemed to be the dirtiest, and the driver seat bottom. I waited a couple hours to make sure it dries, but actually dried pretty quickly after wiping with damp microfiber cloth.


PROTECTING LEATHER: Now that the surface is clean you can decide to add protectant. I used the white cloth that came with the kit to apply the leather protector product. However, next time I will use a foam or microfiber pad. You just wipe it on and let dry (like Z10). Do not buff. It took longer to dry than I thought. I used very little of the product to cover the front seats. After a couple hours I went out to check and it was dry but glossy. By morning, the leather looked dry and dull...like new leather. Leatherique can be a tiny bit tacky immediately afterwards, but this product was completely dry. In reality I think it takes about 4-6 hours to fully dry depending on environment...but if you apply in the evening and let sit overnight it won't impact your day.
[UPDATE - If you don’t wipe off the excess Protector you’ll find it will dry leaving a white film.]


I'm really happy with the results but I can't capture the finish in pix. There is no odor I can detect, so I still plan to continue using Z10 on the headrests or some place.

[argento]

I am using ECS Tuning Ti Bolts with my R20mm and F12.5mm spacers.

I had a situation on the right rear one wheel where I couldn't get the last bolt in place. It would go 4-6 threads and stop. I would remove everything and start again, then it worked. One time it took me an hour to get them all on, next time no problem at all to get them all on, this last time I couldn't get one on at all. When this first started I suspected the bolts, but they all checked out and why would they all go on sometime but not others I thought. I then suspected an alignment with my spacers, wheel, rear F85 rotor (no fixing set screw), and hub to explain working once and then not the next time.

I worked out a procedure to try and get everything aligned. Three bolts on rotor to hub only hand tight, then tighten each little by little to ensure conentricity. Apply emergency brake. Remove bolts and add spacer. Add bolts, tighten to center spacer on rotor/hub, make mark between rotor and spacer. Remove bolts and install wheel checking to ensure concentricity all the way.

Still problematic. This last time I still couldn't get one bolt on and determined, by swapping sides, that this time it was indeed the bolt. Ordered another (and spares) and it easily threaded into place.

PROBLEM SOLVED: I've deduced that these bolts can't take repeated high torque pnuematic tool removal. At 140Nm, it takes my tool about 2-3 seconds of pounding to loosen. I have a higher setting on my tool but didn't want to use...not sure if better or worse. Likely this bolt got worse over the past 4-6 removals so when it checked out at the beginning, it then kinda worked intermittently in a specific spot, and by the last removal it was unusable. It doesn't look compromised whatsoever so nothing obvious, but it's toast as I determined by replacing with a new bolt that worked perfectly. Bought some spares.

I will be removing bolts manually going forward. Evantually will return back to OEM-like hardened steel or more expensive Titanium bolts.

[argento]

OEM Splitter install begins…

[black_beast]

Originally Posted by argento

OEM Splitter install begins…

Where did you find one

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

OEM Splitter install begins…

Love mine and we have the same color and lights so you’ll love it.

[argento]

UPDATED 9May2023, See PG.15, POST# 318: DIY Installation of Splitter per OEM instructions to remove gaps in the corners.

I guess watching the classifieds daily finally paid off… Thanks Doctor///M ! I did aome correcting and finishing work w my buffer.

I didn’t use the oem cement to mount, I want to be able to remove and sell one day. Doctor///M had clearance holes for mounting. The oem holes line up perfectly but i still have a small gap on the front corners…so may revisit install in the future.

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

I guess watching the classifieds daily finally paid off… Thanks Doctor///M ! I did aome correcting and finishing work w my buffer.

I didn’t use the oem cement to mount, I want to be able to remove and sell one day. Doctor///M had clearance holes for mounting. The oem holes line up perfectly but i still have a small gap on the front corners…so may revisit install in the future.

Looks gorgeous! What gaps in the corners? Can you post pics please. Thanks

[///SY33]

[argento]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Looks gorgeous! What gaps in the corners? Can you post pics please. Thanks

You can kinda see it in the close up pic, under the PDC sensor, a shadow. It's held on with 8 fasteners now and 3m tape, so not going anywhere. I'm sure there's a solution, thanks for your help to get me some pix from your installer.

I was running out of time yesterday so didn't troubleshoot.

OH and that vinyl wrapping on the aux radiator intake was just a test to see if I'd like the look...I ended up removing it.

[Doctor///M]

Originally Posted by argento

I guess watching the classifieds daily finally paid off… Thanks Doctor///M ! I did aome correcting and finishing work w my buffer.

I didn’t use the oem cement to mount, I want to be able to remove and sell one day. Doctor///M had clearance holes for mounting. The oem holes line up perfectly but i still have a small gap on the front corners…so may revisit install in the future.

Wow, impressed that you removed the bumper cover to install (I didn’t). Finishes up the front end nicely from stock!

Curious you ended up with a gap on the underside. I went through 3 installs to get the front to fit snugly, but the undersides were always fine. Just gotta get it lined up that one time and it’s good to go. Car looks great, suggest you take off all the black vinyl including the side markers since the OEM look is classic.

[argento]

Hey, thanks for posting, I will refit this weekend. I have to ask, on the splitter, the outer most original hole aligns correctly but seems like it needs a longer screw as the oem screw requires me to pinch the splitter excessively...did you use oem fastener or find a longer one?

You're right you don't have to remove the bumper to install, however I wanted to check all the clips were properly aligned and I needed to create a template to wrap the bumper surface where double sided tape would be touching...for ease of removal later.

The bumper removal only takes 15m, and the hardest part is making sure not to break the 3 clips per side under the headlights. I use old credit cards and slide in there to deflect the clips and the bumper pops off (after all the fasteners removed of course). NOTE: disconnect negative battery cable before disconnecting the side cameras, else you'll have to get in there and recode. You can reconnect the neg battery cable with the PDC disconnected with no issues (except monitor warnings it's disconnected).

Regarding the reflectors, I was thinking exactly same yesterday. Your post has made up my mind to remove the wrap as the splitter totally changes the front end. The only other wrap currently on there is the dark headlight wrap eyebrows, which I've been reconsidering, but overall I still like them. I also ordered the black IND bmw hood logo, so will add that soon.

[JellyStyle]

has anyone found replacement lens for the BMW LED Headlights on the X5M ? I'v tried to sand and polish BMW lights before and it wears off the coating on the outside and never looks the same. I know you can recoating them, it might be my only option..

There is X6 lens out there, but they have an indent in them on the front corners, like the non OEM headlights have.. So I am wondering if anyone has ever found LED headlight lens replacements out there?

argento - where did you get your headlight eyebrows?

PS. since you have one of the cleanest X5M's out there, wait till Sophisticated Redneck is done with the three port catch can setup.. He's making them for my F02 and X5M, but will be the best-looking and best-performing catch cans for any N63 and S63 platform, with controllable vacuum valving, machined fittings (no plastic OEM connections) and machined flappers too. We'd love to get your feedback on them once done.

[argento]

Hey, don’t laugh, but this is where I got my eyebrows…a template and some dark headlight wrap.

I appreciate the kind callout on the X5M and I’m sure there are many others just not posting as often.

Yes SR strongly recommends the 3 port option, sounds like it’s going to be super nice…I can’t wait to check it out. Bad timing for me as I do have all the components for a 2 port option ready to go. I may go ahead and install until the 3 port is ready. I designed a custom bracket and he printed it for me…however he just offered to make me a metal bracket as soon as he gets a mill he has eyes on. This bracket allows you to run with the engine cover…but I’ve since learned those only hold in the heat of these hot engines. However I have my hood up and fan on every night to cool it down upon arrival.