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      07-19-2019, 03:09 PM   #1
OvalPiston
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Any DIY for replacing turbo coolant lines on X5M/X6M?

I searched but i couldn't find any DIYs. Just a few posts of pictures of what people did, but no DIY steps. The top is simple, the bottom connections are what I'm concerned about.

Would be great if there was a DIY out here, but I can't find one.
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Last edited by OvalPiston; 07-23-2019 at 05:18 AM..
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      07-23-2019, 07:39 PM   #2
Ryan5034
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It's complicated getting to the lower hoses. When you replace the top don't use fuel line hose because it melts and gets soft at too low a temp.
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      07-23-2019, 07:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OvalPiston View Post
I searched but i couldn't find any DIYs. Just a few posts of pictures of what people did, but no DIY steps. The top is simple, the bottom connections are what I'm concerned about.

Would be great if there was a DIY out here, but I can't find one.
This will help you replace with OEM hose (hard and soft with stepless clamps): https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1537049

I recommend just pulling the rubber hoses and replacing with .50" silicone heater hose. Dealer is like $700 otherwise. Make sure you do the electronic bleed afterward and fill at the auxiliary fill location. Here is a discussion on the hose replacement using silicone heater hose and normal worm clamps: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1335376
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      07-31-2019, 08:43 AM   #4
OvalPiston
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So while I was under there, both plastic air ducts going into the turbos were loose. They were missing the grommet which ensures a tight fit, and the one side was cracked. The other not too far behind, so I replaced both. Had to use a stand-alone torx 30T and a 1/4" wrench to turn it to get the back-most bolt off of the heads. I replaced just the top part because the bottom ones weren't leaking and it looked like a PITA job, plus I was already 1 week into it and other priorities. I used the compression seals instead of the worm-screw clamps. The compression seals are better b/c they apply a consistent tightening all around the hose, while the worm-screw clamps do not. For large hoses, worm clamps are fine, but these small ones I didn't want to compromise. And I put in a new coolant tank. I followed the bleeding directions and she runs like a top, better, smoother power, and no leaks!
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