X5M Ownership Difficulty: Reduced Power Engine Malfunction

[mightyb28]

Thank you for the opinion. My BMW shop verified the Solenoid was failing, so I just need the diagram to verify where it's located, on Bank 2, to replace it.

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by mightyb28

Thank you for the opinion. My BMW shop verified the Solenoid was failing, so I just need the diagram to verify where it's located, on Bank 2, to replace it.

Bank 2 is driver side. Remove intercooler. Located on the cylinder head. You can’t miss it. It’s the 2 solenoid that is held on with a 10mm bolt on each.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by mightyb28

Does anyone have the engine diagram showing the VANOS Solenoid Valve location?
For bank 2 I believe you remove the right side IC and they sit right below?

Like Twin said it's driver side, after you pop off the intercooler you will have access to them. There are two in each head, exhaust vanos is closet to the turbos, intake of course is the other closet to outside of engine and farthest away from the turbos. Get new o-rings if your solenoids don't come with them. Solenoids are the same for intake and exhaust. Oil will come spilling out usually (a few tables spoons so be ready or will leak on your power steer pump pulley)

[frankenm]

Originally Posted by mightyb28

Thank you for the opinion. My BMW shop verified the Solenoid was failing, so I just need the diagram to verify where it's located, on Bank 2, to replace it.

These are facts sir
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...epair-manuals/

Also your hijacking this thread

[mr____p]

Shop says bank 2 waste gate on turbo is just fine (-10,11 ) psi.

They say for bank 1 they need to remove the turbo to be able to adjust the waste gate. They would need 6 hours labor to do that 😂

If worst came to worse I found 2 turbos on eBay for about $2k total.

bank 2 turbo waste Gate is closing within spec of -10 psi. That means the waste gate is doing its thing properly?

But they want to check out bank 1 but there is no bank 1 codes?

we got Bank 2 codes, but turbo wastegate is checking within spec ?

I wonder how confident they are in replacing the turbos to 100% convinced that it would fix the problem. I just want to do a process of elimination like Diverter valves before I commit to a turbo r&r

Will need to rest my thoughts and come out with a choice tommrow.

[Bengineer330]

This is funny, I just stumbled upon your thread because I made the exact same decision two weeks ago. Its not a M model but has the M-Sport package and 120k miles. The Engine was just replaced with a new re-manufactured from BMW. A lot was re-used from the old engine though. They were pretty much giving it away so I thought why not, it'll be my pet project. Great looking car, going to 'spruce' her up over the next few months and hopefully turn her into my daily driver. Especially since gas is so cheap. LOL

But literally on my drive home from the dealership I got the Engine Malfunction after getting on the throttle on an on-ramp. I don't have the ISTA software yet but got a P0238 code, no check engine light, and it went away after a few miles. Checked all hoses, they look good, purchased new boost solenoids and planning on doing them tomorrow. I'll keep up with this thread during all my adventures.

[Bengineer330]

Was able to replace both boost solenoids yesterday. Took about 4hours to do all the work. Learned a lot about why people shy away from this engine, everything is crammed in there and to gain any access to the front of the engine the motor fan has to come out as well as the charge cooler expansion tank and if your motivated the charge cooler electric water pump. I didn't remove the water pump but i did unplug its connector and was able to move it out of my way.

The process I used to get to the boost solenoids.

1) Remove all air intake plastic, acoustic cover, cross memeber

2) Remove engine fan, to do this though I had to take off the top return hose from the left charge air cooler. Coolant went everywhere but was expected. Even with that hose disconnected it was a tight and frustrating to remove the fan. Had to twist the left side to get the tab past the metal tubing at the top

3) Remove expansion tank, coolant was already drained so this was simple, bottom hose was pretty tight though

4) Remove bracket holding the electric water pump, move to the right.

5) Remove bracket holding oil lines, this will give you access to both the solenoids which are tucked neatly under the left charge air cooler

6) Remove the four 10mm nuts holding the solenoids on. These were a pain and I used a mirror to see what I was doing. Ended up being able to get them loose with 10mm wrench then unscrew them by hand.

7) Remove the solenoids and be careful when taking off the vacuum hoses and be sure to remember which goes were

8) Put the vacuum lines on the solenoids and put the solenoids back on the brackets. Be careful when re-routing the vacuum hoses

9) Put the oil lines bracket back.

10) Put the electric water pump bracket back on

11) Put the expansion tank back in and reroute the hoses. Fill to the brim with coolant.

12) Put the Motor Fan back in, again a pain to put back

13) Run the bleeding procedure by turning the car on, putting it to max heat on the lowest fan setting, then press the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds. You'll hear a whooshing sound, lasts about 12min. Put a battery charger on if your battery is old. I didn't

14) Start the car and pray

These made a HUGE difference in overall performance. Before the car was sluggish starting from a stop at an intersection. I chalked it up to the transmission gearing but now that I did these there is a noticeable difference through the whole powerband! Pulls like you'd expect now, it was powerful before but now its a whole different feeling. Going back I wish i would have pulled vacuum on the lines before putting everything back but I don't have the tools to do it.

When I need to access the front of the engine again I would suggest removing the expansion tank first, then the motor fan. Will make life a lot easier.

I still get the Engine Malfunction Light when I go WOT and it hits redline and shifts, then it immediately throws the code. All other times its good. Planning on getting the actual codes read before trying anything else but glad I did these.

[mr____p]

Just picked up the x5m from the shop.

I was able to get the vacuum pump done with the solenoids and the lines.

I was also able to replace a lower radiator hose and repair about 3 smaller coolant leaks in the process of the tech being down there.


Idk if its just a conincidence but this car pulls way harder. 1st and second gear is solid and even 3rd. The light is a lot harder to trigger, but the malfunction light still does pop under heavy boost on the freeway.

Street driving its like a rocket. Im guessing this did help with the issues overall, but this damn light is such a game kill driving this thing.


The shop is pleading that it is the turbos and reccomend replacing both for $1440 labor only. I could pick up the turbos for about 2k brand new.

As far the smoking from the exhaust its still there. Hoping this ATP will help build those seals back to rejuvination. I Would say the total drive time is about 3-4 hours since putting in two bottles.

I can say its definitely less. Hoping a few more hours will do the trick. If not will do a oil changer with a bit thicker viscosity going into summer here in Vegas. Its running 5w30 in it right now so i may go up a bit in weight and add some more bottole of the atp to see how it treats that issue.

Overall, the car drives, and gets me from point a to b. Will keep you guys updated if I find anything out next.

[TwinSnailz]

Pipsniperr : you my friend need to invest in a good bmw code reader. At least a Carly or some sort with all the money you have slapping the shop folks.

Did you not change the diverter valve yet?
Just saw your first post on the code for blow off valve.
Blow off valve = Diverter valve

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...601058#fitment

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

Pipsniperr : you my friend need to invest in a good bmw code reader. At least a Carly or some sort with all the money you have slapping the shop folks.

Did you not change the diverter valve yet?
Just saw your first post on the code for blow off valve.
Blow off valve = Diverter valve

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...601058#fitment

Drop a link, I'll buy one.

&& I will be looking at them very soon since I finally have the car back. I will most likely change those out next to see if it's the issue.

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Drop a link, I'll buy one.

&& I will be looking at them very soon since I finally have the car back. I will most likely change those out next to see if it's the issue.

You need 2x Diverter valve

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Drop a link, I'll buy one.

&& I will be looking at them very soon since I finally have the car back. I will most likely change those out next to see if it's the issue.

I know that a pretty popular diverter valve is the GoFast Bits DV+. And like snailz said you'll need two.

[frankenm]

Turbosmart makes one as well now bit more expensive but they are OEM fit I made a thread about them

Can get the OEM for 54 on rockauto same manufacturer

[mirob]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Just picked up the x5m from the shop.

I was able to get the vacuum pump done with the solenoids and the lines.

I was also able to replace a lower radiator hose and repair about 3 smaller coolant leaks in the process of the tech being down there.


Idk if its just a conincidence but this car pulls way harder. 1st and second gear is solid and even 3rd. The light is a lot harder to trigger, but the malfunction light still does pop under heavy boost on the freeway.

Street driving its like a rocket. Im guessing this did help with the issues overall, but this damn light is such a game kill driving this thing.


The shop is pleading that it is the turbos and reccomend replacing both for $1440 labor only. I could pick up the turbos for about 2k brand new.

As far the smoking from the exhaust its still there. Hoping this ATP will help build those seals back to rejuvination. I Would say the total drive time is about 3-4 hours since putting in two bottles.

I can say its definitely less. Hoping a few more hours will do the trick. If not will do a oil changer with a bit thicker viscosity going into summer here in Vegas. Its running 5w30 in it right now so i may go up a bit in weight and add some more bottole of the atp to see how it treats that issue.

Overall, the car drives, and gets me from point a to b. Will keep you guys updated if I find anything out next.

Is your exhaust stock?

Right after I did my exhaust I would get the message consistently at WOT around 90mph. Turns out you have to plug the two tiny rubber hoses that control the exhaust valves/flaps on the stock exhaust if you disconnect them. So if you have aftermarket exhaust make sure they are plugged. Even if you still have your stock muffler, make sure both are still attached to the exhaust valves/flaps...make sure hoses are not cracked and leaking air even if they're connected...

Good luck man, I know how bad this can suck.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by mirob

Is your exhaust stock?

Right after I did my exhaust I would get the message consistently at WOT around 90mph. Turns out you have to plug the two tiny rubber hoses that control the exhaust valves/flaps on the stock exhaust if you disconnect them. So if you have aftermarket exhaust make sure they are plugged. Even if you still have your stock muffler, make sure both are still attached to the exhaust valves/flaps...make sure hoses are not cracked and leaking air even if they're connected...

Good luck man, I know how bad this can suck.

Wow thats a good point. Im 90% sure it is a stock exhaust, but I will double check for these issues

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by pdX5M

I know that a pretty popular diverter valve is the GoFast Bits DV+. And like snailz said you'll need two.

Does this vent to air?

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Does this vent to air?

As far as I know it functions in the same was as the stock diverter valve which I think recirculates air and vents some to atmosphere. Pretty good discription of the part here but at a quick glance I didn't see anything about recirculating/venting: https://www.kmdtuning.com/bmw/x-seri...roduct_id=6816

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by pdX5M

As far as I know it functions in the same was as the stock diverter valve which I think recirculates air and vents some to atmosphere. Pretty good discription of the part here but at a quick glance I didn't see anything about recirculating/venting: https://www.kmdtuning.com/bmw/x-seri...roduct_id=6816

Yes I confirmed that it doesnt vent to atmosphere. Which is prob a good thing for drivability issues.

For what they cost it isnt a bad idea to replace them. I remember the shop had replaced the charge pipe(turbocharger compressor housing), wondering if they come with new diverters or they use old ones from previous charge pipe.

I drove the car again today. A complete beast. Pulls real hard but once shift happens into third gear in automatic or high boost 3rd gear in manual I get the code. My mechanic strongly believes its the turbos.

It's unfortunate how sensitive the iDrive system is considering its PCM values the tubro should meet. If it wasn't for the stupid malfunction CEL, I wouldn't even be concerned really...

My biggest problem is the white smoke on a quick rev from exhaust after a few minutes of idling. I put 2 bottles of atp 205 in it last month. I don't think iv'e put more than 800 miles on the car so im going to keep driving.

Im keen to trying 10w40 full synthetic with some more snake oil additive to see if i can get lucky on the valve stem issue.. maybe that lucas additive and some more atp205 or maybe ill try a differnnt additive this time round.

[mr____p]

I have done some reading up on the the Bits DV+ and how it helps hold higher boost pressures and Ive decided to pick up a pair. its worth a shot. It just makes sense that it could be possibly the DVs since most of the posts Ive read on bad DVs are in WOT in higher gears.

Tomorrow I will pop the hood and remove my valves to inspect the diaphragms for tears and leaks.

Regardless, it will be a upgrade.

Another thing I have noticed is my gas mileage. I drive mostly city and average 7.9mpg, which clearly isn't the advertised (12mpg city 17mpg highway). Extremely low and Ive reset iDrive multiple times.

I do have slight memory of when first getting the car before the engine malfunction light it was around 13mpg. Who knows.

If the new DVs dont work, Ill be looking into the next simple issue. Im not convinced these turbos are bad. They pull so hard in 1st and second. Even in 3rd and 4th if I get lucky without the light coming on.

I make a great living, thankfully I can afford it. I just hope its worth it at the end of the day.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by frankenm

Turbosmart makes one as well now bit more expensive but they are OEM fit I made a thread about them

Can get the OEM for 54 on rockauto same manufacturer

'

Checking out your post now..

I have heard the other brand Bits DVs + fasteners dont work in the plastic housing, and youll need to get correct bolts for them..

[frankenm]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

'

Checking out your post now..

I have heard the other brand Bits DVs + fasteners dont work in the plastic housing, and youll need to get correct bolts for them..

Screws are STS KN1038 6x35 T25 sold by screwerk

This is also an OEM compatible upgrade that I would prefer over the gf+ since u don’t need to assemble and reuse an existing ... From turbosmart I have not tried it but I used their BOV for my other chargepipe setup and it worked great - the BOV sound it made was very distinct turbo woooooooooosh so fun even when venting back to intake, atmospheric was almost obnoxious but that was a vacuum operated bov and not the same design as these

https://www.turbosmart.com/product/b...lumb-back-vr9/

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by frankenm

Screws are STS KN1038 6x35 T25 sold by screwerk

This is also an OEM compatible upgrade that I would prefer over the gf+ since u don’t need to assemble and reuse an existing ... From turbosmart I have not tried it but I used their BOV for my other chargepipe setup and it worked great - the BOV sound it made was very distinct turbo woooooooooosh so fun even when venting back to intake, atmospheric was almost obnoxious but that was a vacuum operated bov and not the same design as these

https://www.turbosmart.com/product/b...lumb-back-vr9/

269$ x 2 sheesh! And these are direct bolt on?