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      09-20-2018, 11:47 AM   #1
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Downpipe Install

I've scoured the threads and internet and think I'm going to attempt it myself. I received a $700 quote from a local shop, and I'm just not willing to pay that. Any tips, tricks or info is appreciated.
I picked up the V band gaskets, for the bottom so I need any gaskets where it mates to the two bolt piece? If so, can you provide part numbers? Anything I should be particularly careful with? Doing this with ramps, jacks and jack stands, so any experience with that will help as well. Thanks!
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      09-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9vapors View Post
I've scoured the threads and internet and think I'm going to attempt it myself. I received a $700 quote from a local shop, and I'm just not willing to pay that. Any tips, tricks or info is appreciated.
I picked up the V band gaskets, for the bottom so I need any gaskets where it mates to the two bolt piece? If so, can you provide part numbers? Anything I should be particularly careful with? Doing this with ramps, jacks and jack stands, so any experience with that will help as well. Thanks!
not much help from me as I never installed DP myself nor do I have them in my car but make sure to wrap them before installing
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      09-20-2018, 12:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneca View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9vapors View Post
I've scoured the threads and internet and think I'm going to attempt it myself. I received a $700 quote from a local shop, and I'm just not willing to pay that. Any tips, tricks or info is appreciated.
I picked up the V band gaskets, for the bottom so I need any gaskets where it mates to the two bolt piece? If so, can you provide part numbers? Anything I should be particularly careful with? Doing this with ramps, jacks and jack stands, so any experience with that will help as well. Thanks!
not much help from me as I never installed DP myself nor do I have them in my car but make sure to wrap them before installing
Hmm, have been told not to wrap them... anyone else have some input?
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      09-20-2018, 12:39 PM   #4
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http://www.hotcarparts.de/bilder/Akrapovic/EBA/X5M.pdf

Follow the above DIY. Fairly easy...took me 6 hrs since the driver side bolts underneath are hard to reach...you need a swivel joint and long extension to get around the drive shaft.

I wrapped mine and turned out great. I pulled them recently after 15k miles and the wrap held up well. I’ll post pics later

Edit: I posted the info below. Still follow the link DIY and take your time with the V-Band clamps so you don't strip anything. I could probably do this in 2 hours now that I've done it so many times, but took me a while the first time since I didn't want to mess anything up. Be patient.
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Last edited by jandref321; 09-20-2018 at 01:24 PM.. Reason: Add Info
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      09-20-2018, 01:21 PM   #5
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PARTS:

2 X Turbo to Downpipe Gasket Rings PN: 18307553601
2 X Downpipe to Front Pipe Gasket Rings: PN: 18307577959
4 X Downpipe to front Pipe Collar Nuts PN: 11627509731

OPTIONAL:

1 X 2" x 50' Lava Exhaust Heat Wrap
1 x Package of Metal Self Locking Zip ties for Exhaust Wrap (Minimum 12)

TOOLS:

1/4" Drive Ratchet
3/8" Drive Ratchet
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
3/8" Drive Extension
3/8" Drive Swivel Joint U-Joint
O2 Sensor socket (Cutout Style not offset style)
T25 Torx Wrench (Heat Shielding and Brackets)
E8 External Torx Socket (Heat Shielding)
10mm Socket (Vacuum Tanks and Coolant Reservior)
13mm Socket (V-Band Clamps)
11mm Deep Socket (Collar Nuts DPs to front pipes)
Needle Nose Pliers (Wrap Zip Ties)

Awkward to get driver's side collar nuts on and off:


DPs right before install:




DPs after install:


DPs after 15k miles still look good since no water gets that high under the vehicle. Everything is covered.
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      09-20-2018, 01:27 PM   #6
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task looks daunting
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      09-20-2018, 03:15 PM   #7
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Awesome info, thanks so much for sharing! What turbo blankets are you using? Does the dual/individual setup offer better coverage over the ptp single?
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      09-20-2018, 03:52 PM   #8
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PTP is better...I tossed the individual ones
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      09-21-2018, 10:42 AM   #9
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FWIW, my indy shop in Western NY cost me ~$600 for the install. That included some fabrication work because the Racing Dynamics DPs didn't actually fit right.
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      09-21-2018, 11:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9vapors View Post
I've scoured the threads and internet and think I'm going to attempt it myself. I received a $700 quote from a local shop, and I'm just not willing to pay that. Any tips, tricks or info is appreciated.
I picked up the V band gaskets, for the bottom so I need any gaskets where it mates to the two bolt piece? If so, can you provide part numbers? Anything I should be particularly careful with? Doing this with ramps, jacks and jack stands, so any experience with that will help as well. Thanks!
What brand downpipes did you buy?
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      09-21-2018, 11:48 AM   #11
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What brand downpipes did you buy?
VRSF
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      09-21-2018, 12:53 PM   #12
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So...I looked up the VRSF Downpipes and they are listed as not requiring any changes and the O2 Sensors appear to line up. Be aware when buying DPs that some of them have different locations for the O2 sensors and you have to buy extender wires for the O2 sensors...and the heat shield no longer fits. Hopefully this is not the case for the VRSF Downpipes. I did notice that the VRSF ones do not have welded bolts on the lower flanges. This will make it much more difficult to install. The stock Downpipes have bolts pressed into place. You may do yourself a favor by getting the new bolts tack welded into place on the new DPs.
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      09-21-2018, 12:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
So...I looked up the VRSF Downpipes and they are listed as not requiring any changes and the O2 Sensors appear to line up. Be aware when buying DPs that some of them have different locations for the O2 sensors and you have to buy extender wires for the O2 sensors...and the heat shield no longer fits. Hopefully this is not the case for the VRSF Downpipes. I did notice that the VRSF ones do not have welded bolts on the lower flanges. This will make it much more difficult to install. The stock Downpipes have bolts pressed into place. You may do yourself a favor by getting the new bolts tack welded into place on the new DPs.
whats your take on gutted OEM DPs? thinking of going that route....
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      09-21-2018, 01:12 PM   #14
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whats your take on gutted OEM DPs? thinking of going that route....
Make sure you never want to go back to stock. For all of this keep in mind that you will need a tune otherwise you will throw codes and run rough. I didn't want to gut in the event that I sell and go back to stock. Do a search though, several people on here runn gutted pipes.
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      09-21-2018, 01:23 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
Make sure you never want to go back to stock. For all of this keep in mind that you will need a tune otherwise you will throw codes and run rough. I didn't want to gut in the event that I sell and go back to stock. Do a search though, several people on here runn gutted pipes.
i dont plan on selling so that wont be an issue. although it will throw codes, without a tune, its ok to drive with a gutted DPs?
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      09-21-2018, 01:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9vapors View Post
Hmm, have been told not to wrap them... anyone else have some input?
Anything to lower underhood temps is a good thing, a very good thing for reliability, maintenance, and potential performance gains.

That said, love PTP turbo covers. The best out there. But when it comes to downpipes, I've usually just sent them out for ceramic coating. I suck at wrapping, but the factory DP's look pretty straight and doable.

There is the rare case, where oil dropped on a wrapped item could catch fire and be difficult to control. Thus the preference for coatings over wraps. Wraps predate coatings, so there's that, its got history and is proven.
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      09-21-2018, 02:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
So...I looked up the VRSF Downpipes and they are listed as not requiring any changes and the O2 Sensors appear to line up. Be aware when buying DPs that some of them have different locations for the O2 sensors and you have to buy extender wires for the O2 sensors...and the heat shield no longer fits. Hopefully this is not the case for the VRSF Downpipes. I did notice that the VRSF ones do not have welded bolts on the lower flanges. This will make it much more difficult to install. The stock Downpipes have bolts pressed into place. You may do yourself a favor by getting the new bolts tack welded into place on the new DPs.
My plan is to have some bolts welded in place, my only issue is I don't know how long or what size bolts. I heard it really helps with the install. I was looking at yours and I see you went that route. Here are mine, hope the flex section doesn't give me any problems.
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      09-21-2018, 06:04 PM   #18
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Nice! Have you considered ceramic coating and/or wrapping?
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      09-21-2018, 06:37 PM   #19
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Nice! Have you considered ceramic coating and/or wrapping?
Yeah, I bought the wrap, will get it done tonight. Having the bolts welded tomorrow morning and attempting install tomorrow. Hopefully 2.5" long bolts are going to be long enough.
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      09-21-2018, 06:59 PM   #20
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Awesome, hope everything goes as planned! GL
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      09-22-2018, 09:58 PM   #21
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So an update, I was able to get the downpipes out. The only issues I had were some small things, but they were significant. I ended up needing some t handle torx to get around the oil blow by system. I missed the 2 6mm Allen wrench bolts on the driver side downpipe. So I was frustrated, had to walk away for a bit. Halfway through, my 1.5 ton jack couldn't handle lifting the car anymore, so I had to break and go grab a new 4 ton jack, way overkill, but I have some other stuff to work on with it as well. If I subtract a couple walks to the auto parts store, the jack situation, the removal of the downpipes and taking my time, was probably about 4 hours. This is with me back and forth getting tools, jacking the car up and down, staring at things, taking my time etc. I still need to install my downpipes and get everything buttoned up, but ran out of time today. Also want to add the bottom copper nuts came off without much issue, I didn't remove the aluminum engine cover underneath or anything underneath the car. Just loosened the dp to exhaust slip on coupler, undid the exhaust hanger closest to the dp coupler and used a swivel and extension to get the nuts off. That took in all about 30mins.
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      09-22-2018, 11:32 PM   #22
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It’s never as easy as it seems....hopefully your wife doesn’t stick her head in the garage every 20 minutes and ask why you’re not done yet lol. The struggle is real. I’ve been keeping my auto frustrations at bay watching the YouTube channel “B is for Build.” Regular guy trying to rebuild and now starting to legit build cars. Awesome attitude the whole time even through really scary “the car is ruined” moments makes you feel like your car problems are simple...definitely worth checking out.

You’ll have it easier taking off the aluminum skid plate/stiffening plate. It gives you a straight shot to a nut on each side. Swivels should be a last resort since you have to torque the nuts. One more step to a beast X5M!
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