X5 5.0i - Talk me out of it

[Cosmo Kramer]

Hey all,

So my 2011 Cayenne S now has 135,000 miles on it so I am looking to replace it with another vehicle. I took out a 5.0i, wow on the performance! I would say it lands somewhere between a Cayenne S and a Turbo. Very solid and smooth feeling. Looking at something that could tow a car hauler if need be, and I am a power junkie.

I am targeting vehicles with under 60,000 miles as I want something a lot lower mileage than I already have. There are four in my price range locally that fit the bill and budget, but here's the history on Carfax:

2011, 75,000 miles, US vehicle: Just had head gaskets replaced, was lemoned in 2012

2011, 55,000 miles, US vehicle: Has been in shop every few months on carfax, lemoned in 2012

2012, 55,000 miles, CDN vehicle: At BMW dealer, has just received new engine

2011, 60,000 miles, CDN vehicle: Has new turbos and water pump

It seems these cars have all had lots of issues for low mileage cars. Am I nuts to want one of these things? My Cayenne has its problems but am I jumping from the frying pan and into the fire?

I imagine if I go for one an aftermarket warranty is a must for at least powertrain (just from a cost perspective). I am a pretty good wrench, I work on my own cars, I am picky on doing all the maintenance that is needed and have a lift. I just don't want to be dealing with issues every month.

Thoughts?

[X5 MAN]

I won't talk you out of it
Its like buying an old house.
You need to have a budget for replacing wear items like in a house.
Also budget to replace certain parts proactively to make it last longer.
I have a 2011 50i and I spent $10 k on top of the $15k I bought it for.
Now it runs like dream.

[Spyro235]

If ou don't want to be having issues every month, v8 bmw life is not for you. the 5.0 X5 is pretty much the epitome of the "needs expensive repairs constantly" from what I can tell. I got a diesel, and I'm deleting it soon. At 212k miles on stock everything, it's more reliable than my old honda accord was.

The diesel might not hat the high end rush that the v8 will, but when deleted and tuned it's as reliable as a honda in the 90's, and makes over the spec of torque at the wheels, at like 1700 rpm. I actually bought my X5D specifically to be a daily/ occasional tow rig. Buying my 18' trailer on Sunday. I've only had a measly 2500 lbs behind the X5 so far, but it towed it like an absolute champ.

Plus, I got over 20mpg while towing, and I get 27-28.5 highway while commuting. When deleted those numbers should increase around 3-4mpg too, and the full delete and tune is costing around $2000.

[X5 MAN]

Yeah.

if towing a car trailer is your priority, Diesel 35D is the way to go. You will burn up the innards of the 50i on towing trips.

50i is a Thoroughbred race horse and not a pack mule for Indiana Jones adventure.

[IN-FLT]

When i checked insurance... an X5M was the same. From what I've seen an M is a little more reliable than the 5.0i and .. more collectible. I'd talk you out of it only to get an M

[Naz24]

This could be you...

Get the M instead...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

I have a 2012 50i with 140k on it. Picked it up with 100k last year, drove the piss out of it and slapped 40 thousand miles on it in less then 12 months and I am not nice to it. I make runs to Tucson all the time and at 100+mph for extended periods of time. EVERY SINGLE DAMN PROBLEM that plagues the 50i and to a lesser extent the M is related to heat. It's a reverse flow engine sealed in an engine compartment with ZERO airflow and topped off with a engine cover. The under hood temps hit 275+ degrees, baking the piss out of your hoses and tubes, coil packs, valve stem seals, turbo oil lines, coolant lines, etc. I cry every time I see a thread about someone needing to replace their rear engine compartment partition....yes that's it, keep the heat inside and make sure you put your engine cover back on so it looks pretty when you take it to a dealer every 5k miles to replace something else that failed prematurely due to heat saturation. BMW never could design for shit when it comes to heat saturation...or perhaps it was there plan all along..... replacement PART$$$$$

[Sophisticated Redneck]

With all that being said, the 50i is a blast to drive (beats my buddies new mustang 5.0 0-60 cause TRACTION and I'm glued to his ass until 120 lol) If you get a 50i, do yourself a favor, toss your rear engine compartment partition (some fool on here will pay you for it) and your engine cover. You will greatly extend your engines life and all those little hoses and bits life exponentially. Also when picking out your 50i, get one that didn't see much city driving if possible. Stop and go in the heat of the summer kills these cars.

[boneca]

I agree with few posters here
If you want performance go with M, it will def depends on u budget but M E70 prices came down so much lately that you might be able to find something in similar price range. Also S63 is better engine over all.
If you want to tow u trailer around go with Diesel (it has its own issues but its better for the purpose)

As for Redneck, I see his comments about engine compartment heat almost every day starting with engine partitions thread. I do agree with him somewhat as far as heat goes, but I wouldn't suggest throwing away all plastic parts under the hood. If u buy u car at 100k and don't show it any love for a year putting 40k miles under AZ sun, this is what u get!

[Cosmo Kramer]

Thanks so much for all the advise. I'm leaning towards the 2012 with the new engine at BMW. At least I would be starting fresh. Lol. It's also a one owner vehicle.

Like I said I can turn a wrench pretty good (most experience is Porsche's).

Any other things? How about transmissions and transfer cases? Transfer cases are weak in the Cayenne and I replaced one on my 640i after only 40,000 miles.

[boneca]

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer

Thanks so much for all the advise. I'm leaning towards the 2012 with the new engine at BMW. At least I would be starting fresh. Lol. It's also a one owner vehicle.

Like I said I can turn a wrench pretty good (most experience is Porsche's).

Any other things? How about transmissions and transfer cases? Transfer cases are weak in the Cayenne and I replaced one on my 640i after only 40,000 miles.

I want to say u making right decision based on 2 points:
1. sounds like u pretty good with DIY and also have a lift
2. if u get new engine I'm pretty sure you'll get 3-5 years warranty on it if anything goes wrong!

so u should be covered in any case!

[X5 MAN]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I have a 2012 50i with 140k on it. Picked it up with 100k last year, drove the piss out of it and slapped 40 thousand miles on it in less then 12 months and I am not nice to it. I make runs to Tucson all the time and at 100+mph for extended periods of time. EVERY SINGLE DAMN PROBLEM that plagues the 50i and to a lesser extent the M is related to heat. It's a reverse flow engine sealed in an engine compartment with ZERO airflow and topped off with a engine cover. The under hood temps hit 275+ degrees, baking the piss out of your hoses and tubes, coil packs, valve stem seals, turbo oil lines, coolant lines, etc. I cry every time I see a thread about someone needing to replace their rear engine compartment partition....yes that's it, keep the heat inside and make sure you put your engine cover back on so it looks pretty when you take it to a dealer every 5k miles to replace something else that failed prematurely due to heat saturation. BMW never could design for shit when it comes to heat saturation...or perhaps it was there plan all along..... replacement PART$$$$$

That is why you do not use it for towing or soccer-mom shopping runs. Use it as an Interstate cruiser and you can put thousands of highway miles on it with no sweat.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by boneca

I agree with few posters here
If you want performance go with M, it will def depends on u budget but M E70 prices came down so much lately that you might be able to find something in similar price range. Also S63 is better engine over all.
If you want to tow u trailer around go with Diesel (it has its own issues but its better for the purpose)

As for Redneck, I see his comments about engine compartment heat almost every day starting with engine partitions thread. I do agree with him somewhat as far as heat goes, but I wouldn't suggest throwing away all plastic parts under the hood. If u buy u car at 100k and don't show it any love for a year putting 40k miles under AZ sun, this is what u get!

You misunderstood, let me clarify: within two weeks of purchasing my 50i, it started smoking bad, tossing codes with bunk plugs and coils.Noticed engine compartment hotter then Chernobyl when opening hood. Tossed rear parition and engine cover. Replaced the coils and plugs, CCV tubes, coked up turbo oil lines, installed catch-cans, adjusted the CC vacuum to proper -8psi (a big FU to the BMW engineer that set it at -0.85,) proceeded to drive living hell out of in in AZ heat for past year, only needing o change oil every 5k ( 5-40 moly, with mos2 additive, best oil there is for n63/s63) and slapped in downpipes too for fun). I can guarantee you had I left all it's wonderful heat retention equipment in there, it would not have made it this far. It's not rocket science, under hood temps hit close to 300 degrees, the hotter something is, the faster it oxidises. Tossing the rear parition drops 60 degrees in under hood temps. Pick yourself up a Bluetooth BBQ thermometer and see for yourself

[boneca]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

You misunderstood, let me clarify: within two weeks of purchasing my 50i, it started smoking bad, tossing codes with bunk plugs and coils.Noticed engine compartment hotter then Chernobyl when opening hood. Tossed rear parition and engine cover. Replaced the coils and plugs, CCV tubes, coked up turbo oil lines, installed catch-cans, adjusted the CC vacuum to proper -8psi (a big FU to the BMW engineer that set it at -0.85,) proceeded to drive living hell out of in in AZ heat for past year, only needing o change oil every 5k ( 5-40 moly, with mos2 additive, best oil there is for n63/s63) and slapped in downpipes too for fun). I can guarantee you had I left all it's wonderful heat retention equipment in there, it would not have made it this far. It's not rocket science, under hood temps hit close to 300 degrees, the hotter something is, the faster it oxidises. Tossing the rear parition drops 60 degrees in under hood temps. Pick yourself up a Bluetooth BBQ thermometer and see for yourself

I gotchu sounds like u had an issue to begin with!

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

hotter then Chernobyl

glad u solved it

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

You misunderstood, let me clarify: within two weeks of purchasing my 50i, it started smoking bad, tossing codes with bunk plugs and coils.Noticed engine compartment hotter then Chernobyl when opening hood. Tossed rear parition and engine cover. Replaced the coils and plugs, CCV tubes, coked up turbo oil lines, installed catch-cans, adjusted the CC vacuum to proper -8psi (a big FU to the BMW engineer that set it at -0.85,) proceeded to drive living hell out of in in AZ heat for past year, only needing o change oil every 5k ( 5-40 moly, with mos2 additive, best oil there is for n63/s63) and slapped in downpipes too for fun). I can guarantee you had I left all it's wonderful heat retention equipment in there, it would not have made it this far. It's not rocket science, under hood temps hit close to 300 degrees, the hotter something is, the faster it oxidises. Tossing the rear parition drops 60 degrees in under hood temps. Pick yourself up a Bluetooth BBQ thermometer and see for yourself

You really live up to your username daily.

I wonder if there's any additional correlation between engine part life and color of the car as well. As white would probably be the coolest in AZ sun

[heatmizr]

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer

I'm leaning towards the 2012 with the new engine at BMW. At least I would be starting fresh. Lol. It's also a one owner vehicle.
How about transmissions and transfer cases?

DING DING This sounds like a winner! You can easily get 60k+ out of a new engine before too many of the issues start creeping in.
I'm at 57k and nothing but new plugs, baby!

However I did get a new Transfer case by 50k...

Good luck to you sir

[Cosmo Kramer]

Thanks again everyone for the advise, especially now knowing most of the issues are from excessive heat. In my area, the ambient temp is only a real issue a few months of the year, I imagine how Arizona and other southern states have to mitigate the under hood heat to a greater extent.

heatmizr: What was the cost for a transfer case?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer

Thanks again everyone for the advise, especially now knowing most of the issues are from excessive heat. In my area, the ambient temp is only a real issue a few months of the year, I imagine how Arizona and other southern states have to mitigate the under hood heat to a greater extent.

heatmizr: What was the cost for a transfer case?

If your in cooler climate and grab the one with the new engine, your going to be in good shape but at least toss your engine cover. Your engine will thank you for it. Can't speak for the gentleman who replaced his, but the 50i transfer case weakspot is the plastic gear used to adjust the pressure on the friction discs. It's a 20 dollar part you can do yourself if your handy with tools. Other then that, it's pretty rare to have one fail outright it's such a simple design.

It's ZF 8HP70 tranny is solid but make sure to change your oil at 70-80K and reset your adaptations after you do, ZF actually recommends this BMW says it's lifetime but they are smoking crack...me thinks the actual manufacturer of the transmission knows more then BMW's smooth as 20grit soaked in glass shards marketing team...

[Cosmo Kramer]

So I went and looked at the one with the new engine. Unfortunately it was a bit of a turd. Based on appearance I can see why it needed the engine if the outside maintenance matched the mechanical maintenance. I passed on it.

I went back and investigated the first one I looked at, a 2011. It has about 15,000 miles more but cleaner inside and out. The seller showed me a receipt for head gaskets, valve seals water pump and a bunch of stuff just done at an independent mechanic at the tune of $6500. Car drive nice and really pulled strong. Out of the three I tested it drove the best by a long shot. Also was cheaper and came with two sets of rims. Put a deposit on it. (Pic shows winter wheels, comes with staggered 20").

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer

So I went and looked at the one with the new engine. Unfortunately it was a bit of a turd. Based on appearance I can see why it needed the engine if the outside maintenance matched the mechanical maintenance. I passed on it.

I went back and investigated the first one I looked at, a 2011. It has about 15,000 miles more but cleaner inside and out. The seller showed me a receipt for head gaskets, valve seals water pump and a bunch of stuff just done at an independent mechanic at the tune of $6500. Car drive nice and really pulled strong. Out of the three I tested it drove the best by a long shot. Also was cheaper and came with two sets of rims. Put a deposit on it. (Pic shows winter wheels, comes with staggered 20").

Excellent, glad you were able to get out there and test them out. Sounds like you'll be behind the wheel soon. Welcome aboard!

[TwinSnailz]

Welcome to the v8 DIY board. Get yourself a good set of tools and software.

For me, after a rough winter my coolant expansion tank busted again just after I replaced it before winter. Which leads to my turbo coolant pump failure, then which leads to turbo overheating and cooked the bearings. LoL Never ending.

[Cosmo Kramer]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

Welcome to the v8 DIY board. Get yourself a good set of tools and software.

For me, after a rough winter my coolant expansion tank busted again just after I replaced it before winter. Which leads to my turbo coolant pump failure, then which leads to turbo overheating and cooked the bearings. LoL Never ending.

Thanks!

I have a Foxwell NT520 Pro that I use on the Porsche's, I will just have to purchase the BMW software for it. It should work well for this vehicle.