argento's alpine white X5M

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by argento

TTV8M Engine rebuild! Oh man, I bet you have some stories! I hope you share details when you’re done, will look forward to it.

In the middle of my next DIY, Y-Pipe coolant mess cleanup, turbo oil return line o-ring replace, and oil return cover replacement. All cleaned, but waiting on parts for assembly…

Just got my motor running today. Puuuurrring like a kitten

[argento]

Congrats TTV8M !! Any break in period? Glad to hear you’re back on the road. Share pix when you can.

[TTV8M]

Thanks brother. Its been a long a$$ 5 year project. Na not on the road yet. Parts just showed up from FCP euro. I needed the 2 donut gaskets from the downpipes to the rest of the exhaust, the special olystimoly lube for the driveshaft cause i separated it to replace the round bushing/mount. Still have to torque the 36mm nut on each axle, put on the wheels and go for a ride.

For my break in period, I will go with several individuals' advice on keeping the rpms under 3000 for the first 1000 miles (hope I last that long), and will change the oil at the first 250 miles to get all the assembly juice outta there. Then will change the oil again at the 1000 mile mark. Both times I will be thoroughly reviewing the oil filter for any glitter

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Thanks brother. Its been a long a$$ 5 year project. Na not on the road yet. Parts just showed up from FCP euro. I needed the 2 donut gaskets from the downpipes to the rest of the exhaust, the special olystimoly lube for the driveshaft cause i separated it to replace the round bushing/mount. Still have to torque the 36mm nut on each axle, put on the wheels and go for a ride.

For my break in period, I will go with several individuals' advice on keeping the rpms under 3000 for the first 1000 miles (hope I last that long), and will change the oil at the first 250 miles to get all the assembly juice outta there. Then will change the oil again at the 1000 mile mark. Both times I will be thoroughly reviewing the oil filter for any glitter

5 years, wow has it really been that long?! Switch to Motul oil as well and dont use that junk LM.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

5 years, wow has it really been that long?! Switch to Motul oil as well and dont use that junk LM.

cool, ya will do. i have 10L left for the 250 mile change, then will go with motul. what about the adder? does motul have an adder like LM has that ceratec? something with more zinc in it i believe i read on other posts? (antifriction adders)

[TTV8M]

tonight is the maiden voyage down the street. lets see how she does

[werdn]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

5 years, wow has it really been that long?! Switch to Motul oil as well and dont use that junk LM.

Which Motul do you use? 8100 Excess Gen 2 or 8100 Power?

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Attachment 3834709

tonight is the maiden voyage down the street. lets see how she does

Never made it. First, trans won't go into gear and we gotta troubleshoot, but more importantly, I believe the arrow rods are hitting something. Either the notches in the block are not big enough or maybe one rod is hitting the oil pump. I gotta drop the pan and look.

Removing the filter I see only a few pieces of tiny aluminum chunks, no steel, no bearing material and a loud ass clank clank which goes perfectly with the engine rpms

[argento]

Oh man! Sorry to hear! I wouldn’t know where to start, but you known it insde and out by now. Hoping it’s a straightforward find…

Jealous of your led over you engine, nice!

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by werdn

Which Motul do you use? 8100 Excess Gen 2 or 8100 Power?

8100 Power

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Never made it. First, trans won't go into gear and we gotta troubleshoot, but more importantly, I believe the arrow rods are hitting something. Either the notches in the block are not big enough or maybe one rod is hitting the oil pump. I gotta drop the pan and look.

Removing the filter I see only a few pieces of tiny aluminum chunks, no steel, no bearing material and a loud ass clank clank which goes perfectly with the engine rpms

What?!?! Thats nuts. Hopefully you can find the issue and resolve it quick.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by argento

Oh man! Sorry to hear! I wouldn’t know where to start, but you known it insde and out by now. Hoping it’s a straightforward find…

Jealous of your led over you engine, nice!

Thanks. Yeh I also have the milwaukee battery light too but its a little different. i guess being 43yrs old, im a little old fashioned to the lights with wires/plugs.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by argento

Oh man! Sorry to hear! I wouldn’t know where to start, but you known it insde and out by now. Hoping it’s a straightforward find…

Jealous of your led over you engine, nice!

yep so I dont think its a total catastrophe...........ill drain the oil and drop the oil pan tonight. i think the larger m5 straight rods are tapping on something....maybe the windage tray which is in the upper oil pan, but just below the rods. it cant be the block notches we put in for the rod bolts as we measured them and they had more than 1mm of clearance.

lesson learned, when you modify an engine, especially when putting in different rods, you must assemble the block and turn it by hand a few times, check for resistance. i remember we did but dont remember it being tight/loose/tight. so lets see what we can see tonight.

then a separate issue is the trans not playing nice. doesnt want to go into drive or reverse. kicks right out. more than likely low trans fluid from the swap. gotta think about that more once we get this rod-rapping (lol sounds funny) cleared up

[argento]

Was it hitting/interfering at first startup or did it develop after?

[TTV8M]

Yeh sounded like a bull in a china shop right from the get-go

Turns out the arrow rods and those arp2000 rod bolts are a weeeee bit longer and the windage tray got the beating.

[TTV8M]

I did some searching and reading about the ARP2000 rod bolts and this seems to be a common issue with other platforms.....Honda....Chevy....you name it. Moroso even goes and makes a custom pregapped windage tray for LS blocks.

Now I gotta figure out the fastest and least crazy way to get this upper oilpan out. Does the subframe really have to come out. Or can it just be lowered

[argento]

I asked Sophisticated Redneck , he shared “Ya I dont see anyway to access everything without dropping it. Plus depending on year of engine, it's nightmare to pull upper pan without pulling front case sections too. Not saying it cant be done but would take more time and be more of a pain in the xxx then just dropping it imho”

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by argento

I asked Sophisticated Redneck , he shared “Ya I dont see anyway to access everything without dropping it. Plus depending on year of engine, it's nightmare to pull upper pan without pulling front case sections too. Not saying it cant be done but would take more time and be more of a pain in the xxx then just dropping it imho”

oh cool, hes still around? thought something might have happened to him since we havent heard from him here.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by argento

I asked Sophisticated Redneck , he shared “Ya I dont see anyway to access everything without dropping it. Plus depending on year of engine, it's nightmare to pull upper pan without pulling front case sections too. Not saying it cant be done but would take more time and be more of a pain in the xxx then just dropping it imho”

i was able to lower the subframe about a foot and have it supported using two underhoist safety stands. and then the engine suspended up top with an engine support bar.

[werdn]

Originally Posted by argento

Thanks to many who have posted previously and/or have answered questions directly. FWIW, here is my DIY for the E70 X5M Dinan Spring Install. Please only use if you are mechanically capable, there are some potentially hazardous tasks to this process. The checklist above in post #220 provides a shorter summary of the DIY and skips a lot of detail. The checklist is also in the DIY.

[UPDATED TO REV.3, 4/13/2025]

FULL DIY PDF: Attachment 3709620

CHECKLIST PDF ONLY: Attachment 3709625

Do you happen to have the CAD file or schematic with callouts for the Dinan rear link calibration? My links are two different lengths

[argento]

Originally Posted by werdn

Do you happen to have the CAD file or schematic with callouts for the Dinan rear link calibration? My links are two different lengths

Does this work? I don't have an actual CAD file, but one can be made with the drawing below. I used the drawing to create my test/sizing template.

D100-0915_Installation Instructions.pdf

D113-0010_0_Sensor Rod Length Drawing.pdf

[werdn]

Originally Posted by argento

Does this work? I don't have an actual CAD file, but one can be made with the drawing below. I used the drawing to create my test/sizing template.

Attachment 3845385

Attachment 3845384

Thank you, I will make something approximate out of wood, since I don't have a 3D printer at home.

Did you set it to 69.4 exactly, or did you end up increasing the distance, so that the rear is a bit taller?