Build Log: M57 X5

[khaosx5d]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

What exactly are you swapping between the X5s?

I will be swapping the brakes over for sure. I wanted to swap the M steering wheel with paddle shifters, I'd like to find a way to make the M HUD work in the diesel. Might swap the ventilated seats and controls. I'd also like to update the suspension to as many M spec parts as I can.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by khaosx5d

I will be swapping the brakes over for sure. I wanted to swap the M steering wheel with paddle shifters, I'd like to find a way to make the M HUD work in the diesel. Might swap the ventilated seats and controls. I'd also like to update the suspension to as many M spec parts as I can.

Man, I can't read, lol. I didn't catch it was an X5 MMMMMM parts vehicle. What color is it and what's the condition?

Couple notes which might be helpful.

- I would check the performance of the ventilated seats before swapping them. My D has them and I can't even tell they are cooling while wearing thin athletic shorts. Maybe mine just suck but I think the system might suck in general. Plus all the pores just collect small grains of sand and similar. If you already have comfort seats it may not be worth it, regardless of cooling.

- With the HUD, my understandingi is the "M" interface can activated by simple module coding, no special hardware needed.

[khaosx5d]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

Man, I can't read, lol. I didn't catch it was an X5 MMMMMM parts vehicle. What color is it and what's the condition?

Couple notes which might be helpful.

- I would check the performance of the ventilated seats before swapping them. My D has them and I can't even tell they are cooling while wearing thin athletic shorts. Maybe mine just suck but I think the system might suck in general. Plus all the pores just collect small grains of sand and similar. If you already have comfort seats it may not be worth it, regardless of cooling.

- With the HUD, my understandingi is the "M" interface can activated by simple module coding, no special hardware needed.

It's silverstone metallic. It was my wifes daily driver until she got rear ended in it. The right rear corner was hit hard and then she was pushed forward into a suv with the left front corner. Her cooled seats worked pretty good. Our new one has the comfort seats but not ventilated. I have been doing some reading about the HUD display and saw somewhere that you needed to change the cluster to allow the rpm counter to work properly along with coding? I'm going to start with the easy bolt on mechanical component swaps first and then tackle the more difficult electronic stuff later. I need to get the two side by side on my hoists at work to see what all I can move over on the suspension. I'd like to upgrade as much as I can.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by khaosx5d

I need to get the two side by side on my hoists at work to see what all I can move over on the suspension. I'd like to upgrade as much as I can.

From what I have seen all the "static" suspension and drivetrain components like control arms are essentially the same or without significant differences. The sways, differential, steering are all active so upgrading those would require retrofitting the complete systems. Curious to see if you find value in those active systems, personally I just view them at more complex systems with more sensors to fail and more hydraulics to leak.

[sunny_j]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

From what I have seen all the "static" suspension and drivetrain components like control arms are essentially the same or without significant differences. The sways, differential, steering are all active so upgrading those would require retrofitting the complete systems. Curious to see if you find value in those active systems, personally I just view them at more complex systems with more sensors to fail and more hydraulics to leak.

+1 I would rather replace bushings with stiffer ones than swap over EDC suspension components

[Deftronix]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

100% a better way to share, thanks! Do you mind if I share it with others who might be interested?

You're welcome. Feel free.

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

From what I have seen all the "static" suspension and drivetrain components like control arms are essentially the same or without significant differences. The sways, differential, steering are all active so upgrading those would require retrofitting the complete systems. Curious to see if you find value in those active systems, personally I just view them at more complex systems with more sensors to fail and more hydraulics to leak.

Another option to consider is monoball bushings up front. I installed some Syncro Design Works in March 2017 and has been one of my favorite upgrades. They are still going strong 50K miles later. Cost me $450 + bushing arms. Felt like it handled on rails after that.

[sunny_j]

Originally Posted by Deftronix

Another option to consider is monoball bushings up front. I installed some Syncro Design Works in March 2017 and has been one of my favorite upgrades. They are still going strong 50K miles later. Cost me $450 + bushing arms. Felt like it handled on rails after that.

Got a link?

[Deftronix]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

Got a link?

https://syncrodesignworks.com/produc...nt-thrust-arms

[ucsbwsr]

Played around with the with configuring an inlet system. There might be some subtle changes but I am pretty confident the setup I sketched out will work.

The OEM system seems to perform well for what it is, the goal with this system is to achieve similar filtration and low intake temps while shortening the intake systems length. There are some high HP 335ds which essentially run an ultra short; filter - MAF - turbo inlet pipe. The benefits of the short run and high flow seem to outweigh disadvantage of having the filter in the engine bay and sucking hot air. I hope to have a system that is as short as possible while introducing cold air. Turbo noises and having a unique inlet which cleans up the engine bay are bonuses.

The key to the system will be a 3.5" 90 degree oval pipe made by CXRacing. This X5M intake was the closest thing I found to what I want to achieve.


Here is a scribble of the system. It's worth noting the OEM air filter is a larger 9.5x12" panel filter and looking that size up on K&N's website it should flow ~600cfm, that's K&N's panel filter and is thinner than the Bosch unit BMW uses so I assume the stock filter flows a bit less, maybe 500-550cfm.

K&N offers two filters that will work, the RC-5000 which flows 600cfm and the RC-5040 which flows 1,000cfm. I might see if I can atuff the 5040 but if it's too much hassle then the its nice to know the 5000 essentially flows the same as stock.


Conveniently the OEM turbo inlet pipe houses the PCV connection


With the upper portion of the pipe being removable there is a nice flange to clamp onto


Here is the everything but the turbo inlet pipe installed


The next 2 photos show the MAF mocked up and spaced as if there was a 3" to 2.5" reducer between it and the turbo inlet pipe. Off the MAF will be a 3.5"-3" reducing 90 degree silicone elbow directly connected to a 45 degree elbow which connects to the oval pipe. The goal is to have the oval pipe inline with the vehicle and have the silicone do the bending but if space is limited then I might skip the 45 bend and run the pipe direclty off the 90 degree elbow, we shall see.



When reinstalling the turbo inlet pipe the PCV pipe split, you can see it was cracked in multiple locations. I had some heater hose lying around which fit well.



I am excited to delete this leaking CCV system in favor for a vented oil catch can.


Upgraded the switch for my QTP exhaust valve, not sure if I will end up using a wireless controlled but if I do a hardwired switch this toggle is much easier to operate and offers a cleaner design.


Did a few 0-60 runs, 6.5 was the best but it was also on a slightly uphill road so I expect a 6.3 could have been achieved. Not very exciting but nice to have some sort of baseline before power increases. Currently running JBD @10 and a trans tune.


Speaking of trans tune I was having some delay in acceleration from a standstill, part of it seems to be electronic off the pedal but there is also an elastic like delay which I assume is related to the torque converter. Rod's trans tune does manipulate the TC so I asked him about it and he sent and updated file V12.3 to HP5 IIRC.



In the continued spirit of preventative maintenance I replaced the fuel filter.

Turns out the one installed was dated 2014... overdue!


New filter installed, notice 2019 date.


I also noticed some water ingress via the cowls and I am aware the injector related issues this can cause and although I live in San Diego where precipitation isn't so common, I still wanted to nip it in the butt.



Central cowl piece removed, notice the ends where the oem foam has been smashed and morphed into a goo.


I cleaned off the edges and installed some OCI butyl. I do a lot of headlight work so I conveniently had this laying around. I laid a thick bead at each end.



With the panel reinstalled you can see the excess squishing out. This is what I wanted to make sure there were no gaps but its a bit of an eye sore and butyl can be a mess especially when warm so I trimmed it with a razor and gave it a leak test. Good to go!



My "engine acoustics" were chewed up from a rat at some point and contaminated with carbon via boost leaks so I trimmed up the eye sore a bit and I decided not to install the OEM engine cover, because of this I also removed the oil filler neck extension. I like to tidy up the engine bay as I go and keep things minimal as it makes it easier to wrench.

[RL18]

That's funny I was think something exactly like that for the intake piping the other day. I'd just love to get rid of all that clutter over the intake manifold and I'm sure it would make for better airflow too.

I was think of actually doing duals like on the x5m intakes systems like you said. Apparently the x5 m50d oversea has a dual intake pipe setup, but I would like to flip it and make something like that with two fat filters in the grille

Hardest part would be that oval piping, then a 3.5" silicone 90, maf sensor, then a 3.5x3.0" reducer.

I don't know how to tig weld so I was thinking of going the carbon fiber route.

[sunny_j]

Originally Posted by RL18

That's funny I was think something exactly like that for the intake piping the other day. I'd just love to get rid of all that clutter over the intake manifold and I'm sure it would make for better airflow too.

I was think of actually doing duals like on the x5m intakes systems like you said. Apparently the x5 m50d oversea has a dual intake pipe setup, but I would like to flip it and make something like that with two fat filters in the grille

Hardest part would be that oval piping, then a 3.5" silicone 90, maf sensor, then a 3.5x3.0" reducer.

I don't know how to tig weld so I was thinking of going the carbon fiber route.

that's because it's a n57

[RL18]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

that's because it's a n57

Yes I know that but have dual intake pipes going into the grille like that just flipped 180 degrees on the other side 90ing straight down to the hp turbo inlet. Like for dual intakes instead of single. Just so the intakes look symmetrical, plus more air flow.

[sunny_j]

Even if you manage to get more airflow, isn't the bottle neck still the turbo inlet?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

Even if you manage to get more airflow, isn't the bottle neck still the turbo inlet?

I'm sure the performance benefit would hardly be noticeable. Really I want to do it to get rid of the air filter box right on top of the intake manifold, I want to hear some more noises, and because I think two filters would look pretty aggressive in the grille.

Sure I'll for sure need a pre-filter and running it in the winter in Maine might not be a great idea with all that "stuff" they put on our roads but hey who cares. I'll switch from stock to that every season.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by RL18

That's funny I was think something exactly like that for the intake piping the other day. I'd just love to get rid of all that clutter over the intake manifold and I'm sure it would make for better airflow too.

I was think of actually doing duals like on the x5m intakes systems like you said. Apparently the x5 m50d oversea has a dual intake pipe setup, but I would like to flip it and make something like that with two fat filters in the grille

Hardest part would be that oval piping, then a 3.5" silicone 90, maf sensor, then a 3.5x3.0" reducer.

I don't know how to tig weld so I was thinking of going the carbon fiber route.

I played around with the idea of modding the current inlet pipe to fit the passenger side, N62 intakes and I think the 3.0D from overseas are other possible OEM intakes that could be modified to work for us but the idea of cutting and then plastic welding or taping? the OEM intake back together seems like it would possible offer a rough transition for the air flow and/or look a bit unrefined so I will stick with the pipe and silicone. I think if executed properly it will look clean.

It will be a tight fit to stuff all of those items in the engine bay with such a short run but I think it's possible, it at least seems possible enough for me to try.

As for the OEM dual intake piping, I guess if you wanted maximum filter surface area that is a good way to go but then again if you are that concerned about filtration then sticking filters in the direct line of ram air may not be the best idea.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

I played around with the idea of modding the current inlet pipe to fit the passenger side, N62 intakes and I think the 3.0D from overseas are other possible OEM intakes that could be modified to work for us but the idea of cutting and then plastic welding or taping? the OEM intake back together seems like it would possible offer a rough transition for the air flow and/or look a bit unrefined so I will stick with the pipe and silicone. I think if executed properly it will look clean.

It will be a tight fit to stuff all of those items in the engine bay with such a short run but I think it's possible, it at least seems possible enough for me to try.

As for the OEM dual intake piping, I guess if you wanted maximum filter surface area that is a good way to go but then again if you are that concerned about filtration then sticking filters in the direct line of ram air may not be the best idea.

Yeah I'm not too worried about stuff getting in there. I'd definitely use a prefilter and wouldn't mind switching back to stock in the winter. But you've already given me some great ideas and that site you mentioned that has oval bent steel pipe just might give me enough to want to start this project some time. Maybe next summer I can tac something together for a rough design on a dual ram intake setup in the grille, then if it works out and fits nicely I'll weld it up, paint it then run it! If not, like you say a single pipe looks like it should work no problem or maybe I could downsize to the 3.0" oval pipe for less bulk since it'll be duals instead of single. Idk it's just an idea I had in my head, most will say it's a waste but I like custom little touches like that to make my vehicles unique.

[ucsbwsr]

Replacing vacuum lines turned into bypassing the low pressure EGR cooler and deleting the high pressure EGR cooler.

OEM vac lines had ~80,000 miles on them and were nice and toasty. Even with expanding pliers I wasn't able to get the lines off the nipples without cutting them with a razor. The last vac line I replaced was for the low pressure EGR cooler (located under the LP turbo) and accidentally broke the plastic nipple off. After doing some research I sounded like this wasn't worth repairing since I plan to delete it eventually and the non functional valve should only throw a CEL, not put the X5 into limp.

After learning my EGR delete intake pipe could be installed without limp mode I decided now was a good tie to do that as well. Even while on a stock tune I like having this done to slow carbon build up and have a nice bump in engine efficiency.

The e61 that's for sale gets the garage so the workshop moved to the driveway.



Roasted and toasted!




The best tip I have is to figure out how to remove this rear solenoid, reaching many of the vac lines is awkward but these two are impossible unless you pop the solenoid out.


I didn't see any holes but the lines were not in good shape



Farewell cooler






With the braces out I hit them with some sandpaper and applied some top coat, hopefully they stay looking fresh, I am a bit fan of brushed metals, especially in engine bays.

[RL18]

If you're servicing the vacuum system I recommend doing the three actuators and two pressure converters too! They're common failure items. What vacuum line did you end up using? Also I recommend replacing the gaskets on the vacuum pump as preventative maintenance. That should get your vacuum system running top notch!

Notice any difference in performance? I know when I did a complete refresh on my 335d at 100k it was like I was driving a new car! Way more response low in rpm!

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by RL18

If you're servicing the vacuum system I recommend doing the three actuators and two pressure converters too! They're common failure items. What vacuum line did you end up using? Also I recommend replacing the gaskets on the vacuum pump as preventative maintenance. That should get your vacuum system running top notch!

Notice any difference in performance? I know when I did a complete refresh on my 335d at 100k it was like I was driving a new car! Way more response low in rpm!

I used the OEM Continental hose but will probably refresh it all again with thicker hose when it's needed, OEM lines seem to have a pretty short lifespan.

The actuators and converters were the meat and potatoes of what I did with this vac line refresh, pretty much everything on the hot side has been replaced. Good tip on the vac pump gasket.

No real difference in performance TBH, I don't think my lines were leaking just in rough shape and getting worse. Curious to see if MPG goes up with the EGR bypassed.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

I used the OEM Continental hose but will probably refresh it all again with thicker hose when it's needed, OEM lines seem to have a pretty short lifespan.

The actuators and converters were the meat and potatoes of what I did with this vac line refresh, pretty much everything on the hot side has been replaced. Good tip on the vac pump gasket.

No real difference in performance TBH, I don't think my lines were leaking just in rough shape and getting worse. Curious to see if MPG goes up with the EGR bypassed.

Gotcha. Well when you do a refresh I highly recommend getting your vacuum line stuff from mcmaster. The hoses are actually rated for the conditions they're in, you can get metal barb fittings, and some other things to neaten things up. As far as I'm concerned I shouldn't have to worry about vacuum lines for the life of my 335d which makes me happy.

This is what I'll be buying when I do my x5 delete process along with other some other things (double check on the barb fittings I had a couple I needed/didn't need when I did my 335d): https://www.mcmaster.com/order/rcvRt...;device=iPhone

And if you want to do the vacuum pump gaskets here's a link for that too, you want to make sure you get both of those gaskets: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F321320251247

Getting the vacuum system to 100% is definitely the most important thing on these engines since a leak anywhere in the vacuum system will affect the entire vacuum system (brakes, turbos, and engine mounts). My 335d was on my shit list for awhile because of the poor/inconsistent performance I was getting from multiple leaks, but now its a beast!

Mpg probably won't be too different if any difference. Everyone always fights about how much of a difference removing the egr makes, me personally, felt a difference in response on initial acceleration and low rpm acceleration/cruising. But everyone has different opinions on what they feel.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by RL18

And if you want to do the vacuum pump gaskets here's a link for that too, you want to make sure you get both of those gaskets: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F321320251247

Thanks for the info, ironically moments before seeing this post I placed an order for some additional maintenance parts which included the the vacuum pump gasket, the BMW variant. Do you know if that large non-BMW O-ring is available elsewhere or do you by chance know the dimensions?

I have a fluidampr sitting here so I ordered a few specialty tools for that along with new belts, idler pulley, thermostat, LP EGR block off plate.

After this a cooling flush, oil change, and installing an oil catch can are the only maintenance left to do on the engine before the performance mods can start.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

Thanks for the info, ironically moments before seeing this post I placed an order for some additional maintenance parts which included the the vacuum pump gasket, the BMW variant. Do you know if that large non-BMW O-ring is available elsewhere or do you by chance know the dimensions?

I have a fluidampr sitting here so I ordered a few specialty tools for that along with new belts, idler pulley, thermostat, LP EGR block off plate.

After this a cooling flush, oil change, and installing an oil catch can are the only maintenance left to do on the engine before the performance mods can start.

No problem! I figure I could save you the headache since I've already gone through it myself once! If I'm not mistaken If you go on that link I want to say it gives you the part # for the big gasket and maybe you can find dimensions that way. I possibly might still have the gasket in my box of parts I don't need anymore so I'll look through and see if I can find it. You literally can't find a kit anywhere with both gaskets In the US though, that's not even a ebay link in the US Its like a ebay in europe or something haha.

I went with a FAI Automotive Viscous dampener on my 335d. It's half viscous half rubber so the dampening is a lot better than just the fluid in the fluidamper HD so you might find that there are more vibrations than before. Also make sure you get the clutched alternator pulley since it's been found to be the reason for HD failure. And not sure your mileage but I changed the water pump while I was in there just incase.

Looks like you're doing the process the right way though not doing what I did and delete first then fix everything lol. I'll be doing everything at once on my x5 when I'm ready to delete, make a weekend out of it and make sure its 100%. Goodluck man, your build looks to be coming together nicely