Time to sell?

[bmwarg]

Just learned I need a new transfer case ($4K) and turbo in bank 1 ($3K). My car is 2012 BMW X5 50i Msport with Napa leather and almost all options. It has ~85K miles. The engine seals were recently done courtesy of BMW so it doesn’t burn oil. I love the car but don’t know if I should pour all this money into it.

[jiggz]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

Just learned I need a new transfer case ($4K) and turbo in bank 1 ($3K). My car is 2012 BMW X5 50i Msport with Napa leather and almost all options. It has ~85K miles. The engine seals were recently done courtesy of BMW so it doesn’t burn oil. I love the car but don’t know if I should pour all this money into it.

$7,000 in repairs is roughly half your vehicle's value. Can you find a different shop that would do it for less?

Still, fixing it is way cheaper than buying a newer one! But yah, at some point you gotta cut your losses. Maybe just trade it in and be done with it

Too bad you don't have a good warranty that would cover those repairs

[Sophisticated Redneck]

I have the exact same car (minis m-sport) but with 150K on it. I just replaced the turbos now and transfer case is fine. I'm curious why they said you need new a new turbo and transfer case. Could just be the oil return lines ( I thought mine were shot at 100k but turned out to just be the oil return lines clogged) and the transfer case just needed a new plastic gear. Under 300 dollars in parts if you do the labor yourself or about a grand at an Indy shop. Definitely get a second opinion on it

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by jiggz

$7,000 in repairs is roughly half your vehicle's value. Can you find a different shop that would do it for less?

Still, fixing it is way cheaper than buying a newer one! But yah, at some point you gotta cut your losses. Maybe just trade it in and be done with it

Too bad you don't have a good warranty that would cover those repairs

Is there a warranty for this type of car you recommend?

I went to an Indy shop and the prices I quoted were those (a bit cheaper than dealer)

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I have the exact same car (minis m-sport) but with 150K on it. I just replaced the turbos now and transfer case is fine. I'm curious why they said you need new a new turbo and transfer case. Could just be the oil return lines ( I thought mine were shot at 100k but turned out to just be the oil return lines clogged) and the transfer case just needed a new plastic gear. Under 300 dollars in parts if you do the labor yourself or about a grand at an Indy shop. Definitely get a second opinion on it

Very interesting. I get a code when I accelerate hard (WOT). The dealer said bank 1 turbo. Indy shop said could be turbo, wastegate or clogged catalytic converter but would have to take stuff apart and charge a bit of labor to know for sure. Wastegate and turbo are one thing so require a turbo if either is the problem.

Transfer case because I get vibration when making 90 degree turns. When they deactivate all wheel drive and just have rear wheel drive it doesn’t do it.

How did you figure out it was oil return lines and plastic gear in transfer case?

[jiggz]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

Is there a warranty for this type of car you recommend?

I have a CNA exclusionary warranty on my 2012 50i - I bought it roughly 3 years ago, but not sure they still offer coverage for a 2012 X5? Anyhow, it's paid for itself twice now - wouldn't own this vehicle w/o it.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

Very interesting. I get a code when I accelerate hard (WOT). The dealer said bank 1 turbo. Indy shop said could be turbo, wastegate or clogged catalytic converter but would have to take stuff apart and charge a bit of labor to know for sure. Wastegate and turbo are one thing so require a turbo if either is the problem.

Transfer case because I get vibration when making 90 degree turns. When they deactivate all wheel drive and just have rear wheel drive it doesn’t do it.

How did you figure out it was oil return lines and plastic gear in transfer case?

No codes in mine, just was buying a quart every 150miles...yes 150 miles, oil was dripping out of the turbos, looked like shot seals but turned our prevent owner ran crap oil plus n63 had habbit of coking up the oil return lines, this forces the oil out into the intake. As for the transfer case gear, same thing as yours vibration at sharp angles, especially when paring going slow. It's just the cheap plastic gear which is used to change the friction clutch pack pressure, 50 dollar part and a couple hours of labor to replace.

If your getting codes (please post them here so we can look more in-depth) but most likely underboost codes, could be your diverter valve but I bets it's just worn waste gates. You might be able to adjust them and not have to replace, easy to check. Just grab hand vaccum pump and apply neg -10psi to wastegate actuator, if waste gate feels loose then tighten adjustment arm until it's tight at -10psi. If your not into working on your car then Indy shop that knows turbos can do it for you, takes less then an hour of labor to check and adjust. If wastegates are shot, you can send it in for rebuild or buy kit and do it yourself...be warned it's a NIGHTMARE to rebuild, requires welder and hydraulic press and ear plugs for your kids as you swear and curse so recommend sending in if to worn out. But at 85k I bet your can just adjust them.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

No codes in mine, just was buying a quart every 150miles...yes 150 miles, oil was dripping out of the turbos, looked like shot seals but turned our prevent owner ran crap oil plus n63 had habbit of coking up the oil return lines, this forces the oil out into the intake. As for the transfer case gear, same thing as yours vibration at sharp angles, especially when paring going slow. It's just the cheap plastic gear which is used to change the friction clutch pack pressure, 50 dollar part and a couple hours of labor to replace.

If your getting codes (please post them here so we can look more in-depth) but most likely underboost codes, could be your diverter valve but I bets it's just worn waste gates. You might be able to adjust them and not have to replace, easy to check. Just grab hand vaccum pump and apply neg -10psi to wastegate actuator, if waste gate feels loose then tighten adjustment arm until it's tight at -10psi. If your not into working on your car then Indy shop that knows turbos can do it for you, takes less then an hour of labor to check and adjust. If wastegates are shot, you can send it in for rebuild or buy kit and do it yourself...be warned it's a NIGHTMARE to rebuild, requires welder and hydraulic press and ear plugs for your kids as you swear and curse so recommend sending in if to worn out. But at 85k I bet your can just adjust them.

This is tremendously helpful. Thank you! Few follow up questions:

1. Plastic gear for transfer case: do you know the part number? How do I explain this to a mechanic so they know how to do it?

2. Wastegate: I specifically asked about this because over the past couple of years I heard watergate rattle at cold start. The dealer service center mentioned likely the wastegate is loose and gets stuck under hard acceleration. Both said wastefate is part of turbo and you have to replace all. I light your idea of tightening the adjustment arm (I thought maybe adding code to change angle). Is this definitely something they can try? I wonder why neithered suggested it when I specifically asked about adjusting wastegates.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by jiggz

I have a CNA exclusionary warranty on my 2012 50i - I bought it roughly 3 years ago, but not sure they still offer coverage for a 2012 X5? Anyhow, it's paid for itself twice now - wouldn't own this vehicle w/o it.

Thanks. Read more about CNA but seems they only sell through dealers?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

This is tremendously helpful. Thank you! Few follow up questions:

1. Plastic gear for transfer case: do you know the part number? How do I explain this to a mechanic so they know how to do it?

2. Wastegate: I specifically asked about this because over the past couple of years I heard watergate rattle at cold start. The dealer service center mentioned likely the wastegate is loose and gets stuck under hard acceleration. Both said wastefate is part of turbo and you have to replace all. I light your idea of tightening the adjustment arm (I thought maybe adding code to change angle). Is this definitely something they can try? I wonder why neithered suggested it when I specifically asked about adjusting wastegates.

No problem, happy to help.

Here is the gear I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG...b_b_asin_title

And you may not need this part but best to pick it up just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...b_b_asin_title

Jump on YouTube and search for: " BMW transfer case gear" it will show you about a dozen videos on how to repair, have your mechanic watch them, you can do all the work without dropping the transfer case.

As for the turbos, dealers can't rebuild the wastegates but they certainty can adjust them but they need to pay their bills and most have no morals so there is no way they are going to choose a one hour labor job over a 3k for a new turbo.

The n63 engine you have is a reverse flow engine which means the turbos sit on top of the engine and are very easy to get to so any competent mechanic can check and adjust them. Brand new turbos are set for have the wastegastes closed tight right at -10psi and yours should be adjusted that way also. If the wastegate bushing is so worn out (I seriously doubt it with only 85k on the clock) it cant be adjusted enough to be closed tight at -10psi then they will need to be rebuilt. That is something that BMW dealers can't do so you have to take somewhere and have them rebuild (I think turbolab charges 350 each) or just get rebuilt turbos online (around 700 each, or say screw it and get new for 1K each). Replace or rebuild both if they are so worn out they can't be adjusted as if one is shot, the other is soon to follow. Again I doubt it with just 85k on them and bet you can just adjust them so try that first.

If you know a REALLY good Mechanic (or are a masochist and want to try it yourself) you can rebuild both turbo wastgates for around 100 dollars by picking up the kit off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-550I-X5...ty!85224!US!-1

Its what I did, its just a nightmare to do as the bushing is welded and seized into place so you must have the special equipment to remove it.

I rebuilt mine and put another nearly 40K miles on it before I just decided to replace them with brand new (a grand each) as with nearly 140k at the time, the actual turbine/compressor bearings are showing their age and I could never find a decent turbo bearing rebuild kit that I would trust. Plus I am about to add a JB4 to nearly double the stock boost so I wanted everything to be fresh and new.

Leaky diverter valves can cause boost codes as well as the pressure converters can too. All are relatively cheap and easy to replace but start with the wastegates, most of the time they cause the issues.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

No problem, happy to help.

Here is the gear I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG...b_b_asin_title

And you may not need this part but best to pick it up just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...b_b_asin_title

Jump on YouTube and search for: " BMW transfer case gear" it will show you about a dozen videos on how to repair, have your mechanic watch them, you can do all the work without dropping the transfer case.

As for the turbos, dealers can't rebuild the wastegates but they certainty can adjust them but they need to pay their bills and most have no morals so there is no way they are going to choose a one hour labor job over a 3k for a new turbo.

The n63 engine you have is a reverse flow engine which means the turbos sit on top of the engine and are very easy to get to so any competent mechanic can check and adjust them. Brand new turbos are set for have the wastegastes closed tight right at -10psi and yours should be adjusted that way also. If the wastegate bushing is so worn out (I seriously doubt it with only 85k on the clock) it cant be adjusted enough to be closed tight at -10psi then they will need to be rebuilt. That is something that BMW dealers can't do so you have to take somewhere and have them rebuild (I think turbolab charges 350 each) or just get rebuilt turbos online (around 700 each, or say screw it and get new for 1K each). Replace or rebuild both if they are so worn out they can't be adjusted as if one is shot, the other is soon to follow. Again I doubt it with just 85k on them and bet you can just adjust them so try that first.

If you know a REALLY good Mechanic (or are a masochist and want to try it yourself) you can rebuild both turbo wastgates for around 100 dollars by picking up the kit off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-550I-X5...ty!85224!US!-1

Its what I did, its just a nightmare to do as the bushing is welded and seized into place so you must have the special equipment to remove it.

I rebuilt mine and put another nearly 40K miles on it before I just decided to replace them with brand new (a grand each) as with nearly 140k at the time, the actual turbine/compressor bearings are showing their age and I could never find a decent turbo bearing rebuild kit that I would trust. Plus I am about to add a JB4 to nearly double the stock boost so I wanted everything to be fresh and new.

Leaky diverter valves can cause boost codes as well as the pressure converters can too. All are relatively cheap and easy to replace but start with the wastegates, most of the time they cause the issues.

Thank you so much for your time and helpful insights. I’ll try to get a mechanic to do this.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

No problem, happy to help.

Here is the gear I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG...b_b_asin_title

And you may not need this part but best to pick it up just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...b_b_asin_title

Jump on YouTube and search for: " BMW transfer case gear" it will show you about a dozen videos on how to repair, have your mechanic watch them, you can do all the work without dropping the transfer case.

As for the turbos, dealers can't rebuild the wastegates but they certainty can adjust them but they need to pay their bills and most have no morals so there is no way they are going to choose a one hour labor job over a 3k for a new turbo.

The n63 engine you have is a reverse flow engine which means the turbos sit on top of the engine and are very easy to get to so any competent mechanic can check and adjust them. Brand new turbos are set for have the wastegastes closed tight right at -10psi and yours should be adjusted that way also. If the wastegate bushing is so worn out (I seriously doubt it with only 85k on the clock) it cant be adjusted enough to be closed tight at -10psi then they will need to be rebuilt. That is something that BMW dealers can't do so you have to take somewhere and have them rebuild (I think turbolab charges 350 each) or just get rebuilt turbos online (around 700 each, or say screw it and get new for 1K each). Replace or rebuild both if they are so worn out they can't be adjusted as if one is shot, the other is soon to follow. Again I doubt it with just 85k on them and bet you can just adjust them so try that first.

If you know a REALLY good Mechanic (or are a masochist and want to try it yourself) you can rebuild both turbo wastgates for around 100 dollars by picking up the kit off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-550I-X5...ty!85224!US!-1

Its what I did, its just a nightmare to do as the bushing is welded and seized into place so you must have the special equipment to remove it.

I rebuilt mine and put another nearly 40K miles on it before I just decided to replace them with brand new (a grand each) as with nearly 140k at the time, the actual turbine/compressor bearings are showing their age and I could never find a decent turbo bearing rebuild kit that I would trust. Plus I am about to add a JB4 to nearly double the stock boost so I wanted everything to be fresh and new.

Leaky diverter valves can cause boost codes as well as the pressure converters can too. All are relatively cheap and easy to replace but start with the wastegates, most of the time they cause the issues.

The transfer case ring from FCP Euro is $100, I assume the quality is no better?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-actuator-gear-x3-x5-27107566296g?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407 319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=8521 8275839&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-95712134825&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_m edium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Oe7ob7i5AIVFdRk Ch2UPwLtEAQYAiABEgI7NvD_BwE

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

The transfer case ring from FCP Euro is $100, I assume the quality is no better?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-actuator-gear-x3-x5-27107566296g?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407 319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=8521 8275839&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-95712134825&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_m edium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Oe7ob7i5AIVFdRk Ch2UPwLtEAQYAiABEgI7NvD_BwE

I would definitely go with that one from FCP. I either missed it or they didn't stock it at the time when I got mine last year. I'm sure it's better quality then the one off Amazon

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I would definitely go with that one from FCP. I either missed it or they didn't stock it at the time when I got mine last year. I'm sure it's better quality then the one off Amazon

Appears that the FCP euro part is only for BMW X5 35i. Were you able to verify that the part in the Amazon link was for X5 50i? They don’t seem to specify the different models.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I would definitely go with that one from FCP. I either missed it or they didn't stock it at the time when I got mine last year. I'm sure it's better quality then the one off Amazon

Bump

[NorthCountryGuy]

Go here and find exact part number after you locate your specific vehicle.
Best Wishes with your car.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

Appears that the FCP euro part is only for BMW X5 35i. Were you able to verify that the part in the Amazon link was for X5 50i? They don’t seem to specify the different models.

As far as I know there is only one sized gear that fits both models of the transfer case used In the 35i and 50i as the actuator unit is the same between the two transfer cases. Don't forget to pick up th white nylon driver coupling linked too just in case and grab yourself s transfer case oil change kit as you will need to do this also at the same time oh and last but not least: it's reccomended that you reset the transfer case adaptations too so get th nt510 scanner or bimmergeeks pro tools or load up ista on your laptop so you can reset them after you fix it.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by NorthCountryGuy

Go here and find exact part number after you locate your specific vehicle.
Best Wishes with your car.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

Unfortunately for the transfer case, BMW does not sell just the actuator motor gear... you have to buy the entire actuator motor assembly for 1400 dollars =(. So you have to go to 3rd party aftermarket to get the gear itself.

[bmwarg]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Unfortunately for the transfer case, BMW does not sell just the actuator motor gear... you have to buy the entire actuator motor assembly for 1400 dollars =(. So you have to go to 3rd party aftermarket to get the gear itself.

Got the parts. First Indy shop refused to do it. The manager who used to work at BMW dealership said 98% of the time it didn’t work back when BMW did it this way.

For you it worked - any special tricks/insights that could make a difference? Did you see that the ring was broken?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by bmwarg

Got the parts. First Indy shop refused to do it. The manager who used to work at BMW dealership said 98% of the time it didn’t work back when BMW did it this way.

For you it worked - any special tricks/insights that could make a difference? Did you see that the ring was broken?

Jump up on YouTube, you will find a bunch of videos on its replacement and have a new shop check it out (alot are for slightly different models but same concept applies as they did not change much over the years), they will see how it's really not a difficult thing to do. Removing the transfer case support it about the most difficult thing. When you pull it, the gear should be pretty torn up with the teeth worn down. If the gear looks good when you pull it, the. The actuator motor itself is bad and needs to be replaced. It's almost always the gear though. Make sure to have the transfer case adaptations reset after.

[Thecastle]

go to car-parts.com

Find a wrecked xfer case out of a bmw, by it and install it. Saves a ton of money. The car is fixable, but it takes more time to find a good deal.

[bandwagn]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

go to car-parts.com

Find a wrecked xfer case out of a bmw, by it and install it. Saves a ton of money. The car is fixable, but it takes more time to find a good deal.

Try and find a used transfer case, unless you're putting in new everything else - should be an 'easier' swap.

Also, rebuild turbos or go aftermarket instead of new oem replacements.

The 'is it worth it' question is very subjective and depends on your situation and viewpoint.

$7k is cheaper than a new one and simply the cost of maintaining a high-performance vehicle - or $7k can go a ways towards the down payment on a new X5