Issues with starting the engine

[yober]

I have 2012 X5 35d (E70) without comfort access. A few days ago had it coded , i. e. enabled 2 options : 1) folding mirrors; 2) closing rear gate door with fob.
It was done by using Bluetooth dongle and Bimmercode app.
After that first surprise was that I could not turn off the engine. Only after having foot on the break I was able to stop the engine. Prior to the coding I didn't need to keep my foot on brake when turning of the car.
The next time when I needed to shut of the engine all went well as prior to the coding, i.e. was no need to keep the foot on the break.
Yesterday I had another surprise - after stopping car for 5 minutes I was not able to start the car. When I slide in the fob in to the slot the dashboard lights in the middle section showed a key symbol and car was not starting after pushing the Start button. After 20 minutes of trying to close/open the doors all of the sudden the engine started.
Today in the morning same thing - I could start the engine. After shutting once the door, car engine started.
I'm wondering if this is due to coding?
The fob battery can't be replaced, i.e. the inner battery is rechargeable and fob has sealed seams.
Any idea what is going on?

[sunny_j]

I have coded the same options and have CA and don't have these issues. I would start by either flashing the modules back to stock or replace the battery in the key fob. Chances are the battery is low

[yober]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

Chances are the battery is low

The fob battery can't be replaced, i.e. the inner battery is rechargeable and fob has sealed seams.

[ilia]

Originally Posted by yober

The fob battery can't be replaced, i.e. the inner battery is rechargeable and fob has sealed seams.

I've changed the key fob battery twice on my ownership so far... what kind of a key do you have? It takes CR2032 watch batteries in mine.

[sunny_j]

Originally Posted by ilia

I've changed the key fob battery twice on my ownership so far... what kind of a key do you have? It takes CR2032 watch batteries in mine.

Exactly. I've replaced mine a few times in the 7 years of ownership

[yober]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

Exactly. I've replaced mine a few times in the 7 years of ownership

My fob is a sealed type because the car doesn't have the comfort access.
It has rechargeable VL2020 battery.
You can't easily open the fob. Need to cut it with utility knife. Like here:

But I don't want to start this surgery procedure until I am absolutely sure this is the cause of my problem.
Today in morning my car would not start at all. I have checked the voltage of the car battery and it is 12.15V.
Not sure what else to do.

[ilia]

And here I thought that buying more options complicates a car... it might simplify the keys though. Thanks for the enlightenment and sorry for being no help with your issue.

[yober]

Big thanks to fellow forum member sj22 , yesterday we have jump-started my car and then reset all the coding back to original configuration.
So far my car starts every single time without any issues.
Looks like the coding via Bimmercode was the cause of the problems.
Now I will need to figure out how to code the folding of mirrors and open/close the rear gate via K+DCAN cable.

[yober]

I am having the same problem. Car can't start.
When jumper cables were hooked up I've noticed that the dashboard doesn't light up. even windows can't roll down.
The battery voltage is showing 12.5V .
What can be done?

[sunny_j]

do you have any (soft)code stored? did you scan your car?

[yober]

Originally Posted by sunny_j

do you have any (soft)code stored? did you scan your car?

I'm not sure what do you mean "soft" codes.
I have scanned with Autel MaxiDiag MD802 scanner and found 2 codes:
I deleted them and ran scan again. No more codes popping up.
Strange thing though. I just came home after work and tried to start the car and it started normal. I am puzzled

[sunny_j]

Soft codes are usually codes stored in the DDE but don't trigger a CEL.
I wonder if the reducing agent valve code is causing the no start

[yco]

after resetting the car and after some time if it comes back it can be a module problem and it can be any of them.. do you har any crank when hit the start or nothing?

[yober]

No any sounds of crank.
It feels that the car is completely dormant.

[yco]

Originally Posted by yober

No any sounds of crank.
It feels that the car is completely dormant.

it can be anything but the closest and easiest one to check.. i dont know which fuse is the one for car access module but it can be a good place to start.. you can find that fuse from web searching for CAS.. right after the problem, if unplugging that fuse for 30 seconds and putting that fuse back in solves the problem each time is a good sign to change that fuse.. good luck..

[yober]

I had car electrician to run tests and he discovered the following code in CAS module :

code A0B8 - Hall sensor locked

He stated that CAS module controls mirrors and ignition. Hence when I coded the mirrors to fold when locked by fob, some kind of error got created which effected the ignition. He didn't have the BMW original software to look deeper into CAS module. He said that it takes 1.5 hours to clean up and restore all the settings back to original.

He suggested to replace the key slot first. Does anyone knows if there will be a need to register the new key slot to the car?

[yober]

First suggestion from the car electrician is to try replacing the key slot.
Does anyone knows if there will be a need to code/register the new key slot to the car?

[yober]

an update , just to close this thread...
Car electrician suggested to try in following oredr:
-replace key-slot
if no change
- replace the ribbon cable between the key slot and the CAS module
if no change
- replace CAS

I've purchased from a junkyard a key-slot with its ribbon cable. I tried to replace the keyslot which didn't help. I didn't thinks of to replace the cable since there is no any electronic component within it (just plain regular ribbon cable).

Prior to purchasing a new CAS I took the car to the dealership for the diagnostic and it appeared that the ribbon cable between the key slot and the CAS module had 2 wires almost torn (i.e. the braided bunch of each individual wire was connected just by a single wire). Hence the reason, i.e. the signal was not strong enough to wake-up the car once in awhile.
So at the dealership altogether it costed me $286 for the diagnostics and the ribbon replacement (I provided the ribbon).

Should of listen to the car electrician who suggested to replace the cable too.