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      06-24-2022, 07:27 PM   #1
Tractorguy77
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Red death with less than 200 miles to go…

Diesel gurus,

What to do now? Refilled DEF fluid in my 2012 x5 diesel and then cleared error codes… short after I received the msg from the devil… 200 miles till no start due to fluid. First I thought it was the fluid but it turns out it has something to do with me deleting the error after refilling the DEF. How do I get this reset?

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      06-25-2022, 10:39 AM   #2
crystalworks
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Ugh, yeah good luck. Never reset that code, or any SCR efficiency codes. Just drive around with the CEL on until the car turns it off for you. Then go in and clear the memory.

As for what to do now... you're going to have to run through the SCR/DPF system testing. Get a "pass" from ISTA and then go for a ~40 mile drive >60mph. Then the DDE should turn off the codes for you.

I just got my DDE/CAS/Key back from a service because the DDE had locked in no start after reaching mileage countdown (+ 1 50mile reset). I had failed NOX sensors that complicated things which is why I ran out of mileage.

Good luck. Keep the thread updated.
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      06-26-2022, 11:26 AM   #3
Tractorguy77
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Thank you very much! Before I start running through the test. What do I do if I get a pass and after the drive the error does not turn off? Also, is the 4d16 error the one that I want the system to run through? My nox sensors may also not be working correctly…
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      06-26-2022, 01:03 PM   #4
crystalworks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tractorguy77 View Post
Thank you very much! Before I start running through the test. What do I do if I get a pass and after the drive the error does not turn off? Also, is the 4d16 error the one that I want the system to run through? My nox sensors may also not be working correctly…
Yes, you will want to work through the test plan for 4D16. LOL, NEVER reset that code in a diesel Bimmer. It triggers all those other codes you have <50 miles after you reset it if no repairs have been made.

The test will take 25-30 minutes and will check each part of the system. Before that though it will go through the DEF fluid check and the dosing valve check. It will want you to drain and test the DEF. I clicked through the DEF check as it was freshly added. I just took my dosing valve off to inspect it to make sure it was free of DEF crystals. You can do the whole measuring step for the sake of completeness. I had rebuilt my active tank about 15k miles before (tank heater failure code) so was pretty sure everything was operating well. The valve looked perfect, not even dirty. Then it will run through the SCR system test, the exhaust gets VERY hot so don't park over grass or you risk a fire at worst, and killing the grass at the least. Ask me how I know.

The test results will recommend parts to replace if you fail. And if you pass it will say to go on a conditioning run. You need a certain amount of fuel to complete the test too, so fillup before starting any testing. If all is well the X5 will reset the countdown code for you. If you run out of mileage, you can restart the vehicle within 180 seconds after shutting it down. ISTA will also allow you to reset the "No Start" condition only once, and for only an additional 50 miles. So only enough for one more conditioning drive attempt.

I've learned a lot about these over the last year+ and there is a very specific way to diag repair systems. I never top off DEF fluid until the truck asks for it anymore. Then I refill it (any DEF is fine, I have bought at Oreilly and Lowes). Then just drive it with the warning still on asking for refill. The X will reset it within 20 miles by itself.

In your situation, I would replace the glow plugs and glow plug module, and reset those codes to have the best chance at the conditioning runs. The X5 will not allow a regen to occur with certain codes present and you want the best shot possible at passing the drive. The test will let you know if you need NOX sensors. If they have never been replaced, that is a likely possibility. They are ~$1000 for the pair. I got lucky and found them for ~$800 at a local dealer. Oh, and don't buy your NOX sensors off Ebay, even if they claim to be genuine and cost more than the knock-offs on there, they are not. Again, ask me how I know. Cost me a lot of time and money to remedy that error. Even old dogs have to re-learn lessons sometimes I suppose.

Again, good luck, the DDE can be a frustrating black box to navigate and I understand why some people just delete the ABC systems to avoid the headaches, gain power, and mileage improvements. Just wasn't an option for us, and costs at least $2000 to complete.
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      06-26-2022, 01:40 PM   #5
Tractorguy77
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Thank you so much for pointing out eBay items. Prices look good but if those dont work… that helped a lot! I will see that I get the nox sensors purchased prior to starting the process. Did not really want to also do the glow plugs… given in Houston it seems to give me no real problems, at least right now

Deleting would be another option. Has certainly crossed my mind… just would need help get that done. Not sure if any business would actually do it…
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      07-22-2022, 12:24 PM   #6
Tractorguy77
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Working through all of this over the last weekend, I am seeing that two bolts/studs are totally rusty. Also no nut visible NE salt did a good job eating it up. Not sure how it is holding together.

Can those be replaced? Cannot find a part number for them. Anyone know the part number or where to obtain the part?
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      07-25-2022, 10:56 AM   #7
wcs531
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Hopefully someone else will chime in but might be easier to just drop the exhaust instead of dealing with rusted bolts/studs.

IF you do want to replace them, I'd probably still want to drop the whole exhaust anyway just to have more freedom of movement etc. I believe the n54 guys would either use a torch+hammer or drill out the studs on the factory downpipes. Once you get them out I would just use some class 10.9 nuts/bolts.
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      07-29-2022, 01:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tractorguy77 View Post
Working through all of this over the last weekend, I am seeing that two bolts/studs are totally rusty. Also no nut visible NE salt did a good job eating it up. Not sure how it is holding together.

Can those be replaced? Cannot find a part number for them. Anyone know the part number or where to obtain the part?
Seems to be part of the front pipe. I'd cut, drill, or pop them out and use a quality nut and bolt in their place.
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