Brakenetic Rotors & EBC Pads Installed

[pearlpower]

Barely have 30 miles on the brakes, will likely take some time to break them in (EBC states 1000 miles). I drive the X5M around 100 miles a week at most.

No surprises, install was straight forward. Both rotors & pads fit properly.

The Brakenetics rotors appeared to weigh more than OEM-though wore a bit. Hat is coated so this should avoid rusting that a few OEMs have experienced.

Time will tell how well these work.

Total cost $ 695 (10% coupon from the Brakenetic site) for the F&R rotors shipped. $210 for both ends EBC Red Brakes from Autozone with coupon. I will install the rears some other time.

[X5 MAN]

WOW Congrats !! Looks awesomely cool !

I am going to install Stoptech rotors and EBC Yellow stuff on my X5 50i

But I will get it installed at a garege. I don't know DIY

The weight difference could be due to the loss of mass on friction .

[m5james]

I'm sure the aftermarket ones are heavier due to not being a two piece design. I got mine from eBay seller "Fremax" different brand and color, but they look exactly the same for $258. It's been about 6 months and they've been fine.

[Bilbofraggins]

Pearl Power.... good job...what thickness were you down to on the rotors... if you noted that. Did you have the front calipers powder coated? Would be nice to see how these rotors hold up. I’m at 97000km on original rotors... second set of pads...but no plans to replace things yet... I have an OEM set ready to roll though. I take things apart every year to clean and lube.... So far so good.

[0-60Motorsports]

Beautiful! They look great and the calipers on your car look awesome. Planning to Powder coat mine the OE Blue color when i do my brake job.

[Qarban]

Looks good! Is this the same kit?
https://www.brakenetic.com/product/f...ds-bpk94705-2/

[Qarban]

Originally Posted by m5james

I'm sure the aftermarket ones are heavier due to not being a two piece design. I got mine from eBay seller "Fremax" different brand and color, but they look exactly the same for $258. It's been about 6 months and they've been fine.

Can you share the eBay link please? Thanks!

[pearlpower]

Originally Posted by Qarban

Looks good! Is this the same kit?
https://www.brakenetic.com/product/f...ds-bpk94705-2/

This is the kit I ordered as I do not care for the pads they offer, had them in the past and far too weak for my driving style.

https://www.brakenetic.com/product/f...bute_pa_trim=m

[boneca]

congrats as I mentioned before I wish I knew about them back in March while ordering f85s (what a deal!)

probably my next set when the time comes

[Qarban]

Originally Posted by pearlpower

This is the kit I ordered as I do not care for the pads they offer, had them in the past and far too weak for my driving style.

https://www.brakenetic.com/product/f...bute_pa_trim=m

Thanks for the link, I'm also actually just looking for the rotors. I'm planning to install different pads.

[jandref321]

Just installed mine today...I'm having an issue though. I went to bed in the brakes and immediately had pulsation. I went through the bedding cycle like I've always done on 6-7 cars and the pulse is still there. Pulled the wheel and found that the rotors had uneven wear or build up. I did the bed procedure two more times and the pulse has reduced but not gone. Could that pad material be the problem? These posi-quiets are pretty soft.

[Qarban]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Just installed mine today...I'm having an issue though. I went to bed in the brakes and immediately had pulsation. I went through the bedding cycle like I've always done on 6-7 cars and the pulse is still there. Pulled the wheel and found that the rotors had uneven wear or build up. I did the bed procedure two more times and the pulse has reduced but not gone. Could that pad material be the problem? These posi-quiets are pretty soft.

Looks great!

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Just installed mine today...I'm having an issue though. I went to bed in the brakes and immediately had pulsation. I went through the bedding cycle like I've always done on 6-7 cars and the pulse is still there. Pulled the wheel and found that the rotors had uneven wear or build up. I did the bed procedure two more times and the pulse has reduced but not gone. Could that pad material be the problem? These posi-quiets are pretty soft.

It could be the pads. Do you have another set of pads that you can use?

[X5 MAN]

You have to drive 500 miles normal driving before you can judge the pads. Its recommended .

[pearlpower]

Did you clean the hub before installing the new rotors? Mine had a lot of rust and debris. That could prevent the new rotor from being true. Also, the slots might be causing issue until more miles are one it, or a combination of both. Generally pads never cause pulsating, but with slots I have experienced it until broken in.

[chris604]

I got the ebc Yellow front pads, and new stock rotors. They are basically for track purposes, but still streetable, I'm attempting to remove the front rotor on the passenger side, but that little screw that holds the rotor on won't budge. I think I will strip it if I'm not careful. Any ideas on how to loosen that thing up? It takes a 6mm allen wrench, and it fits perfectly, but I can't get enough torque on it without it starting to strip. Any ideas? Thanks

[chris604]

Originally Posted by chris604

I got the ebc Yellow front pads, and new stock rotors. They are basically for track purposes, but still streetable, I'm attempting to remove the front rotor on the passenger side, but that little screw that holds the rotor on won't budge. I think I will strip it if I'm not careful. Any ideas on how to loosen that thing up? It takes a 6mm allen wrench, and it fits perfectly, but I can't get enough torque on it without it starting to strip. Any ideas? Thanks

Pics:

[m5james]

Originally Posted by chris604

I got the ebc Yellow front pads, and new stock rotors. They are basically for track purposes, but still streetable, I'm attempting to remove the front rotor on the passenger side, but that little screw that holds the rotor on won't budge. I think I will strip it if I'm not careful. Any ideas on how to loosen that thing up? It takes a 6mm allen wrench, and it fits perfectly, but I can't get enough torque on it without it starting to strip. Any ideas? Thanks

Give it a couple taps with a hammer to make sure the allen is really seated and it might break things up a bit, otherwise a little spray of WD40. Unless you strip it and can't remove it, it should be fine if it's messed up a bit...technically it's only there to help hold the rotor but it's gonna get sandwiched into place when you put the wheel on anyways until you go find a replacement bolt.

[chris604]

Originally Posted by m5james

Give it a couple taps with a hammer to make sure the allen is really seated and it might break things up a bit, otherwise a little spray of WD40. Unless you strip it and can't remove it, it should be fine if it's messed up a bit...technically it's only there to help hold the rotor but it's gonna get sandwiched into place when you put the wheel on anyways until you go find a replacement bolt.

I guess worse comes to worse, I could possibly just drill it? As you said, it's just there to align the rotor onto the hub. No real need for it, I think.

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by chris604

I guess worse comes to worse, I could possibly just drill it? As you said, it's just there to align the rotor onto the hub. No real need for it, I think.

I firmly believe in the little screw that holds the rotors on. After all they are there for a reason. My tech who is a master tech told me we would be machining a new hole for the tears if I decided to go with F85 rotors on my X5M.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by pearlpower

Did you clean the hub before installing the new rotors? Mine had a lot of rust and debris. That could prevent the new rotor from being true. Also, the slots might be causing issue until more miles are one it, or a combination of both. Generally pads never cause pulsating, but with slots I have experienced it until broken in.

I did clean the hubs and lubed them up with antiseize. The pulsing is gone...I may have been braking too hard initially for break in.

Originally Posted by m5james

Give it a couple taps with a hammer to make sure the allen is really seated and it might break things up a bit, otherwise a little spray of WD40. Unless you strip it and can't remove it, it should be fine if it's messed up a bit...technically it's only there to help hold the rotor but it's gonna get sandwiched into place when you put the wheel on anyways until you go find a replacement bolt.

+1 on the hammer and penetrating oil. Put an allen key socket in the bolt and tap the socket with a hammer. Use PBblaster to break up the rust on the threads. If it keeps stripping then use a torx bit just larger than the allen key and hammer it into the bolt and remove it.

[chris604]

Originally Posted by jandref321

+1 on the hammer and penetrating oil. Put an allen key socket in the bolt and tap the socket with a hammer. Use PBblaster to break up the rust on the threads. If it keeps stripping then use a torx bit just larger than the allen key and hammer it into the bolt and remove it.

Ok. Got it. Also, I realized that the rotor just turns freely, making it a one hand job on the wrench, as you have to turn the wrench with one hand, and hold the rotor with another. Is there a way to keep the rotor from moving?