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      10-14-2019, 11:17 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by mirob View Post
Another update. Got the adaptations reset. Shifting issue remains. May try the Sonnax Zip Kit next as recommended earlier, however at this point I'm not sure if the issue is in the mechatronic or the actual transmission itself. I may be SOL.
I did the Zip Kit in the 8HP, it does help. Its basically the last thing you can do to as after this your only choice is a complete teardown and rebuild unless you find some issues with the valve body. (Sonnax has a selection of kits for the 6HP that address specific issues with the valve body, you might want to give them a call, they have free tech advice)
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      10-14-2019, 11:46 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
I did the Zip Kit in the 8HP, it does help. Its basically the last thing you can do to as after this your only choice is a complete teardown and rebuild unless you find some issues with the valve body. (Sonnax has a selection of kits for the 6HP that address specific issues with the valve body, you might want to give them a call, they have free tech advice)
What type of issues were you experiencing (if any) that made you get the kit?
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      10-14-2019, 10:36 PM   #69
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What type of issues were you experiencing (if any) that made you get the kit?
Slow upshifts (some shifts would take a second+ to engage even in sport mode), horrific down shifts in some gears, slow torque converter clutch disengagement, and a NASTY coast-down clunk. I could tell by the adaptation values it was mainly solenoid issues but at the time (about this time last year) finding new solenoids for the 8HP was pretty much impossible so I did the zip kit just for the hell of it. I will say that some of the shifts greatly improved, some not changed at all but thats a solenoid issue, and over all a nice improvement and well worth the money. I did it at 130K, have over 150k on the transmission now and finally located new solenoids and will be installing them in a few weeks.

Since you have covered that, you may very well have bad accumulators, valve body leaks, leaky end plugs, etc. The Zip will solve all of those. One thing I HIGHLY recommend is getting a borescope so while you have it apart, you can inspect the internals of the valve body for wear. If you have never done a valve body before, make sure to take pictures of everything as you pull it apart. The check balls and one-way valves can differ greatly from version to version so document everything and dont be temped to reuse the separator plate even if it looks like the gasket surface is ok. Its a pretty simply job as long as you are meticulous and only takes about an hour to install the in the valve body

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 10-14-2019 at 10:47 PM..
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      10-15-2019, 06:32 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Slow upshifts (some shifts would take a second+ to engage even in sport mode), horrific down shifts in some gears, slow torque converter clutch disengagement, and a NASTY coast-down clunk. I could tell by the adaptation values it was mainly solenoid issues but at the time (about this time last year) finding new solenoids for the 8HP was pretty much impossible so I did the zip kit just for the hell of it. I will say that some of the shifts greatly improved, some not changed at all but thats a solenoid issue, and over all a nice improvement and well worth the money. I did it at 130K, have over 150k on the transmission now and finally located new solenoids and will be installing them in a few weeks.

Since you have covered that, you may very well have bad accumulators, valve body leaks, leaky end plugs, etc. The Zip will solve all of those. One thing I HIGHLY recommend is getting a borescope so while you have it apart, you can inspect the internals of the valve body for wear. If you have never done a valve body before, make sure to take pictures of everything as you pull it apart. The check balls and one-way valves can differ greatly from version to version so document everything and dont be temped to reuse the separator plate even if it looks like the gasket surface is ok. Its a pretty simply job as long as you are meticulous and only takes about an hour to install the in the valve body
So, another twist to the story. Pulled the mechatronic yesterday to prepare for the zip kit and found A TON of sizeable metal shavings in the pan and oil. Oil is really dark and milky - probably has ~100 miles on it. So this thing is shot. Going to do the zip kit, put some new oil in, and have it towed to a specialist for a rebuild.
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      10-15-2019, 08:23 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by mirob View Post
So, another twist to the story. Pulled the mechatronic yesterday to prepare for the zip kit and found A TON of sizeable metal shavings in the pan and oil. Oil is really dark and milky - probably has ~100 miles on it. So this thing is shot. Going to do the zip kit, put some new oil in, and have it towed to a specialist for a rebuild.
Damn sorry to hear that, if it's milky that usually indicates the heat exchanger must be damaged and coolant is leaking directly in. It's located underneath your radiator. I would make sure they check it out also.
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      10-15-2019, 09:22 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Damn sorry to hear that, if it's milky that usually indicates the heat exchanger must be damaged and coolant is leaking directly in. It's located underneath your radiator. I would make sure they check it out also.
Thanks man, I'll have them take a look.
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      10-15-2019, 09:27 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Damn sorry to hear that, if it's milky that usually indicates the heat exchanger must be damaged and coolant is leaking directly in. It's located underneath your radiator. I would make sure they check it out also.
I was about to mentioned the same thing. There’s a video on YouTube with a 7 series and the heat exchanger crack. Not only the transmission system is contaminated, but also the coolant system.
Sorry to hear Mirob , open your coolant tank and check.
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      10-15-2019, 10:02 AM   #74
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I was about to mentioned the same thing. There’s a video on YouTube with a 7 series and the heat exchanger crack. Not only the transmission system is contaminated, but also the coolant system.
Sorry to hear Mirob , open your coolant tank and check.
Yeah, it sucks. Do you have that link by any chance?
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      10-15-2019, 10:25 AM   #75
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Yeah, it sucks. Do you have that link by any chance?
I tried searching for it but couldn’t find it. It was a while ago I was randomly searching for transmission jerk problem and happened to find that video. It was hard to watch.

As I mentioned before open your coolant tank and stick a paper towel in it. Any oil should should float up( if there’s any coolant in there) and soak on to the paper towel.
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      10-16-2019, 12:12 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by TwinSnailz View Post
I tried searching for it but couldn’t find it. It was a while ago I was randomly searching for transmission jerk problem and happened to find that video. It was hard to watch.

As I mentioned before open your coolant tank and stick a paper towel in it. Any oil should should float up( if there’s any coolant in there) and soak on to the paper towel.
I'll try that. Would there be a leak, evidence of leak on the undertray/splash guard or the heat exchanger itself? Dripping or pooling of liquid?
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      10-16-2019, 01:36 PM   #77
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Quote:
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I'll try that. Would there be a leak, evidence of leak on the undertray/splash guard or the heat exchanger itself? Dripping or pooling of liquid?
Its hard to explain but if you look at the heat exchanger itself maybe you can understand better. Transmission fluid is heated or cooled internally. The raised area(where I circled)is for the trans fluid and is separated from the coolant inside. If the inside walls crack, it will mix the 2 fluid together. Hope that makes sense. The unit is in front of your front sway bar.
According to realoem, there hasn’t been any updated version. So if it happens, its just one of those dark clouds hovering. Goodluck bro
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      10-24-2019, 06:52 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinSnailz View Post
Its hard to explain but if you look at the heat exchanger itself maybe you can understand better. Transmission fluid is heated or cooled internally. The raised area(where I circled)is for the trans fluid and is separated from the coolant inside. If the inside walls crack, it will mix the 2 fluid together. Hope that makes sense. The unit is in front of your front sway bar.
According to realoem, there hasn’t been any updated version. So if it happens, its just one of those dark clouds hovering. Goodluck bro
Coolant seems to be fine so I'm hoping that stuff that was in the oil is just the clutches melting.

UPDATE: Zip kit did nothing. So EBay transmission is on the way along with more oil and another filter. I'll try to reuse as many sleeves as possible but I don't think I'm opening my mechatronic to recover the zip kit stuff.
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      11-13-2019, 12:53 PM   #79
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Good write-up. Thanks
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      11-13-2019, 07:23 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirob View Post
Coolant seems to be fine so I'm hoping that stuff that was in the oil is just the clutches melting.

UPDATE: Zip kit did nothing. So EBay transmission is on the way along with more oil and another filter. I'll try to reuse as many sleeves as possible but I don't think I'm opening my mechatronic to recover the zip kit stuff.
I just replaced my trans recently, finally back on the road after almost a year of dragging my feet. I've still got an odd and very intermittent Christmas tree of lights where it'll show parking brake, traction control, etc errors but it still keeps driving at least so vs before where it'd force itself into Park and/or failsafe and do nothing. You'll have to have the Mechatronics coded (cost me an extra $150 at a friends shop) if you don't reuse your old one. I'll take the Zip Kit if you don't reuse it in your replacement trans.
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      12-03-2019, 06:43 AM   #81
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I just replaced my trans recently, finally back on the road after almost a year of dragging my feet. I've still got an odd and very intermittent Christmas tree of lights where it'll show parking brake, traction control, etc errors but it still keeps driving at least so vs before where it'd force itself into Park and/or failsafe and do nothing. You'll have to have the Mechatronics coded (cost me an extra $150 at a friends shop) if you don't reuse your old one. I'll take the Zip Kit if you don't reuse it in your replacement trans.
I'm back on the road as well. No issues so far but I'm petrified to go beyond 1/3 throttle...just paranoia I guess.

I ended up transferring the "brain" over to the "new" mechatronic to avoid coding. I also reused some of the zip kit.
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      12-03-2019, 06:55 AM   #82
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Ordered all my parts during the Blackfriday/Cyber Monday sales..... Looking forward to getting the trans service done. After that i will only be left with the stupid diff service to do with its 2-3 different kind of oils...and no ones really knows which one goes where lol
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      02-26-2020, 04:49 AM   #83
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Update: OP Thank you for posting this thread. Helped a lot. Full trans service done and I used the metal trans gasket. Didnt feel comfortable using the paper one. The trans shifts so much better now and so much smoother especially 3rd gear where i felt a little roughness before. Current mileage 60,100km. My transmission took 7.5 quarts of trans fluid. I used the same fluid recommended by the OP.
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      02-26-2020, 05:57 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
. After that i will only be left with the stupid diff service to do with its 2-3 different kind of oils...and no ones really knows which one goes where lol
Please share ^ as everytime I try to look up the Info, my head goes in a spiral mode with bad dizzy spells

Who did your transmission service and please share what all was involved to do it?

Thanks
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      02-26-2020, 05:59 AM   #85
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Quote:
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Please share ^ as everytime I try to look up the Info, my head goes in a spiral mode with bad dizzy spells

Who did your transmission service and please share what all was involved to do it?

Thanks
Redline fluid for all parts of the rear and front diff. Trans service, you can read the first post of this thread. its all there. Im in Bahrain so the shop i use, their techs did the service.
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      09-14-2020, 11:19 PM   #86
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Are people replacing all of the pan bolts? Seems excessive for such low torque parts.

Is the Liquid Moly TOP TEC 1800 ATF a good fluid for this trans?
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      09-15-2020, 12:28 AM   #87
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Are people replacing all of the pan bolts? Seems excessive for such low torque parts.

Is the Liquid Moly TOP TEC 1800 ATF a good fluid for this trans?
I replaced mine to the new PN and will not be replacing them next time i do the Trans service unless the PN changes again.
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      01-02-2021, 09:24 AM   #88
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Bringing up old thread I know faux pas but will this be the same on 35d? Thanks
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