FIXED: X5 E70 3.0D Slugging/Non-existing power - Drives like snail.

[Bazal]

Hi everyone, so got hold of this car recently and so not know much about the history.

Starts, goes in all gears, drives ok. Just not enough power, even when pedal on floor. Also, feels like gear not shifting appropriately in D. If you take it slow, can go to any speed though.

Sounds like turbo boost issue but nothing on dash, nor any turbo related codes.

Glow plug activation codes on almost all of em, could be the controller but that shouldn’t be the culprit as had similar codes in my 320d which ran all well.

Any guesses? Can share log of codes next time I visit car.

And yes, turbo boost was 1.0 bar stationary and approx 2.0 if peddled in neutral.

[Bazal]

Log upon first scan:

Engine:
3FF0 - Air Flow Meter
4212 - Glow Plug Cyl 1 – Activation Interrupted
4222 - Glow Plug Cyl 2 – Activation Interrupted
4232 - Glow Plug Cyl 3 – Activation Interrupted
4242 - Glow Plug Cyl 4 – Activation Interrupted
4252 - Glow Plug Cyl 5 – Activation Interrupted
4262 - Glow Plug Cyl 6 – Activation Interrupted
3EED - Power Management Closed Circuit Current
4A35 - Intelligent Battery Sensor
4530 - Boost Pressure Actuator – Regulation Pressure too Low
3F57 - Charge-air pressure controller
4BC2 - Air Flow Meter -Short Circuit
4BC7 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor
4BA1 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor -Signal too Low

Transmission:
CF37 - SMG 3

xDrive AWD:
54C6 - VTG: oil wear

Heater & air conditioning:
9C4A - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)
E723 - No message (condensation sensor, 0x2D1), receiver integrated automatic heating / air conditioning system

Traction/stability control:
5DEA - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

Instrument cluster:
A559 - Power supply switched off

Auto-leveling suspension:
5FB4 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

Central module (in driver's footwell) (FRM):
A8C0 - Right rear fog light faulty

Junction box (passenger) (JBBF):
A737 - Timeout

Center roof module:
A670 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

CD changer:
D810 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

Telephone:
A36C - Bluetooth antenna error
D690 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)

Gear selector switch:
A82E - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)
A834 - Manufacturer-specific code
(tap to search)


Obtained with Carista 8.3.1 for iOS.



Reset all and only a few came back from glow plugs, IBS, xDrive and some more. Will share latest log soon.

[conmar]

Hi, some ideas springing to my mind:

- change All fluids ( tranny, transfer case, differential, engine)
- air flow meter, try electrical contact spray first before swapping it
- check battery, a weak/dying battery may cause interesting error messages, so to say
- check all hoses for leakage ( see error boost pressure agitator)
- check fuses/box
- boost pressure agitator

Btw, does your car have a DPF? Perhaps clogged, or also the EGR ( not sure however if it would throw an error message), and driving like a snail sounds like the emergency program.

Regarding the glow plugs I would still consider the controller a potential suspect.

Good luck !

[wcs531]

4BC2 - Air Flow Meter -Short Circuit

Mass airflow sensor code will cause limp mode I believe, and you should have a check engine light because of it so thats confusing. I got a check engine light from a mass airflow code when the pipe from the Mass airflow sensor to the turbo came loose. Short circuit maybe means it actually died though.

The 3.0d is probably different with a single turbo but the part number im talking about on the twin turbo 35d is 13717808157. The gasket (13717799839) also goes bad , but double check parts for your engine on realoem.

[Bazal]

Originally Posted by wcs531

4BC2 - Air Flow Meter -Short Circuit

Mass airflow sensor code will cause limp mode I believe, and you should have a check engine light because of it so thats confusing. I got a check engine light from a mass airflow code when the pipe from the Mass airflow sensor to the turbo came loose. Short circuit maybe means it actually died though.

The 3.0d is probably different with a single turbo but the part number im talking about on the twin turbo 35d is 13717808157. The gasket (13717799839) also goes bad , but double check parts for your engine on realoem.

Unplugged MAF, still no codes or change in how it drives. I know it’s weird. Could be wiring?

[Bazal]

Originally Posted by conmar

Hi, some ideas springing to my mind:

- change All fluids ( tranny, transfer case, differential, engine)
- air flow meter, try electrical contact spray first before swapping it
- check battery, a weak/dying battery may cause interesting error messages, so to say
- check all hoses for leakage ( see error boost pressure agitator)
- check fuses/box
- boost pressure agitator

Btw, does your car have a DPF? Perhaps clogged, or also the EGR ( not sure however if it would throw an error message), and driving like a snail sounds like the emergency program.

Regarding the glow plugs I would still consider the controller a potential suspect.

Good luck !

DPF, yes. Not clogged says the OBD. I’m guessing chocked EGR but again, no codes.

New glow plug controller on hand, will be replaced soon.

Mechanic pointing towards faulty turbo (he knows no errors) and I’m waiting for it to arrive. Fingers crossed, turbo replacement sorts this out and we learn something new.

[dude8383]

I would clear the codes first and start fresh. Some of those are coming on from perhaps a dead battery?

[wcs531]

Originally Posted by Bazal

Unplugged MAF, still no codes or change in how it drives. I know it’s weird. Could be wiring?

Originally Posted by Bazal

DPF, yes. Not clogged says the OBD. I’m guessing chocked EGR but again, no codes.

New glow plug controller on hand, will be replaced soon.

Mechanic pointing towards faulty turbo (he knows no errors) and I’m waiting for it to arrive. Fingers crossed, turbo replacement sorts this out and we learn something new.

I think youre skipping a step going straight for a turbo. My money is on a bad MAF, and unplugging it and having no change before/after whatsoever convinces me even more. Plus its a lot cheaper/easier to replace before replacing the turbo.

When searching your codes you get the same 4BC2 code as this guy linked below, and while the 2 following codes are different they share a very similar description.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170966

[Bazal]

Originally Posted by wcs531

I think youre skipping a step going straight for a turbo. My money is on a bad MAF, and unplugging it and having no change before/after whatsoever convinces me even more. Plus its a lot cheaper/easier to replace before replacing the turbo.

When searching your codes you get the same 4BC2 code as this guy linked below, and while the 2 following codes are different they share a very similar description.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170966

😬 only noticed this post now. But still, I doubt MAF would have made this significant of a difference. Turbo spool was almost instantly noticeable as soon as the new turbo was fitted.

[Bazal]

UPDATE:As suspected, it was the actual turbo. Replaced and sorted!

Apparently, the waste-gate was needing too much effort to move and actuator was unable to handle it (probably, can’t say for sure as both components were replaced together) so there wasn’t much of a electrical issue for OBD to report.

Had to do a regen on DPF due to insane back pressure but realised there’s now a leak, most likely a cracked manifold. It’s very noticeable at certain rpms. Mechanic saying ok to drive as is.

As soon as I took it out for a test, EML illuminated for the high emissions. My guess is it just needs driving few hundred highway miles with dpf cleaner and premium diesel.

[conmar]

Originally Posted by Bazal

UPDATE:As suspected, it was the actual turbo. Replaced and sorted!

Apparently, the waste-gate was needing too much effort to move and actuator was unable to handle it (probably, can’t say for sure as both components were replaced together) so there wasn’t much of a electrical issue for OBD to report.

Had to do a regen on DPF due to insane back pressure but realised there’s now a leak, most likely a cracked manifold. It’s very noticeable at certain rpms. Mechanic saying ok to drive as is.

As soon as I took it out for a test, EML illuminated for the high emissions. My guess is it just needs driving few hundred highway miles with dpf cleaner and premium diesel.

Great you got it sorted. However, a crack in the manifold can and will likely get worse, so keep it on your mind.
As the dpf is concerned, premium diesel will help, but it may take up to 6 tanks, till the job is done ;-) as per my own experience with a different make, though you should feel a difference nearly immediately.
Fingers crossed.

[wcs531]

Originally Posted by Bazal

UPDATE:As suspected, it was the actual turbo. Replaced and sorted!

Apparently, the waste-gate was needing too much effort to move and actuator was unable to handle it (probably, can’t say for sure as both components were replaced together) so there wasn’t much of a electrical issue for OBD to report.

Interesting, hadn't really considered the wastegate failing. Thanks for following up. The turbos on our US version usually fail more spectacularly with oil leaks causing tons of smoke.

[Bazal]

Originally Posted by wcs531

Interesting, hadn't really considered the wastegate failing. Thanks for following up. The turbos on our US version usually fail more spectacularly with oil leaks causing tons of smoke.

Yeah, was something new for me aswell.

Anyways, running the car for some 100ish miles now, drives much better but now I have an EML for EGR: P0401 and 4501 - insufficient exhaust gas recirculation. Any advices?

Also, the car seems to have noticable turbo lag and gear shifting lag at lower end; pulling from a stop. I can feel that it is stuck in a lowr gear, higher rpms for longer than needed. Its a single turbo 3.0d. Is it normal?

Dpf regen done and soot level is normal now.