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      02-23-2020, 06:12 PM   #1
Spyro235
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Hard wired in a tekonsha P3- “no trailer connected”

Hi all,
After having some issues with my tekonsha RF brake controller unpairing, and the fact that I had a p3 laying around, I decided to hard wire it in. I have it wired in now, but while my lights all work, the brake controller only displays “no trailer connected.”
I’m pretty darn sure everything was coded right, as I had the RF functioning for about 2000 miles. Coding was done by Codemycar in NJ.

Upon install I found the p3 didn’t have power, so I checked the 30a fuse- blown. Replaced that, and it’s giving the p3 power now, but only shows “no trailer connected”. Fuse is ok, and has not popped.

I triple checked my wiring. The colors all match up as they should, used 4x14g wire to extend it. Snipped the BMW connector, wired in the 14x4, and put the tekonsha connector on the end of the extension. Again, unit is powered, so I assume the ground and the positive are working at least.
I’m sure the trailers brakes are good, as they worked in September when I parked the trailer. That was at the end of a 2500 mile trip and the brakes worked the entire time. Wiring is all inside the frame- trailer is a big Tex 18’ car hauler.

Any ideas how to troubleshoot? What is the tekonsha looking for to see if there’s a trailer attached?
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      02-24-2020, 08:39 PM   #2
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      02-24-2020, 08:46 PM   #3
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      02-25-2020, 07:08 PM   #4
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I have Redarc controller.. so you want a photo of the wire connections to verify? The wire labels I'm sure are the same.

I don't think many people have installed a controller.
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      02-26-2020, 07:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan5034 View Post
I have Redarc controller.. so you want a photo of the wire connections to verify? The wire labels I'm sure are the same.

I don't think many people have installed a controller.
It's actually turning out to be a few issues... one being that my trailer brakes are suddenly not working! So, One of the two ways I wired the controller was probably right, and when I was assuming the trailer was a good "check" device, it threw errors. It still threw the same "no trailer connected" error when I hooked up to a friend's trailer, so I think my wiring is reversed on two wires. Another issue is that my brake circuit doesn't have continuity. I tapped the brake power and the ground line, Jumped the trailer's plug between brake power and ground, and checked for continuity. Has continuity.

Removing the jumper, no continuity- and I'm 99% sure that trailer brakes SHOULD be a closed circuit, and googling confirms that. I've got a broken line, or bad brakes somehow. Figure out this by hooking up a friend's truck with a factory brake controller, and finding "no trailer connected" on HIS truck too!

The reason I know there's an issue with my controller wiring/ wiring harness is that when I jump the brake power line and the ground, it blows the brake power fuse. That shouldn't happen- the brake power should only be live when the controller is outputting something. Right now my brake power line has live continuous power no matter what, so long as the controller is plugged in.
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      02-27-2020, 12:14 PM   #6
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Just an FYI. My factory harness had the blue and black wires reversed. I've swapped them, and my and the brake controller seems to function just fine. Now to diagnose the trailer!
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      02-27-2020, 09:00 PM   #7
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Good you got that figured out. The american pickups are so much better prepared for towing. I'm still thinking about those air bags, you have, working good still?
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      02-28-2020, 01:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan5034 View Post
Good you got that figured out. The american pickups are so much better prepared for towing. I'm still thinking about those air bags, you have, working good still?
True about pickups in preparation, but the X5 tows like a champ! Airbags are still working wonderfully. been on 20k miles, like 3.5k of those towing various things. Mostly 6 or 7k lbs of car.
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      03-01-2020, 05:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan5034 View Post
Good you got that figured out. The american pickups are so much better prepared for towing. I'm still thinking about those air bags, you have, working good still?
Better prepared for towing in an American pickup? I supposed that depends on the pickup. My F-450 Powerstroke doesn't have a hitch or a trailer wiring from the factory. Its never towed a trailer. (in its defense its a commercial vehicle with a service body and boom lift)

Most trucks have towing goodies as optional. Brake controllers as optional, and hitches aren't even standard equipment on the 1/2 ton class. The class 1-2 trucks so called 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton light duty trucks squat like crazy as they have no self leveling suspension. Except for ram of course. Self leveling is huge for handing as eliminating squat really improves handling and reduces unwanted sway.

No surround view cameras, or hitch cameras until the last 2 years.... They've gotten better but are still primitive beasts. My 2011 X5M's cameras were light years better than anything ford, ram or chevy had in 2011, in regards to hitching your trailer without assistance.

Personally I've towed our trailer with a 2017 F-150 3.5 ecoboost and a 2016 Chevy 2500 HD duramax. I'll take the X5M with its superior brakes (compared to trucks), better ride and less sway (especially compared to the F150). Those soft non-performance suspensions and squat due to self leveling really harm the ride/handling in pickups. Its not until you get a new truck with air suspension, a turbo engine and all the towing goodies that trucks begin to shine and improve upon the X5.

Last edited by Thecastle; 03-01-2020 at 06:12 PM..
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      03-01-2020, 05:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro235 View Post
Just an FYI. My factory harness had the blue and black wires reversed. I've swapped them, and my and the brake controller seems to function just fine. Now to diagnose the trailer!
I have the same brake controller.

The easiest way to check if the trailer brakes are working as they are supposed to is to pull the trailer brake away cable and see if the brakes fully engage.

If they do the problem is likely a blown fuse in the tow vehicle for power to the brakes. I've had that happen.

Tekonsha has great tech support, call them with a voltage tester.
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      03-02-2020, 07:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecastle View Post
I have the same brake controller.

The easiest way to check if the trailer brakes are working as they are supposed to is to pull the trailer brake away cable and see if the brakes fully engage.

If they do the problem is likely a blown fuse in the tow vehicle for power to the brakes. I've had that happen.

Tekonsha has great tech support, call them with a voltage tester.
Originally my issue was a blown fuse, then it turned out my factory harness splitoff for a controller has the blue and black wire switched. Long story short, I ended up having 3 issues. First was a bown fuse, second was the harness being wired wrong, and third was that I counted on my trailer being functional, and it wasnt... making the entire process of troubleshooting really hard, since I can't solve 2 different problems with no "check"

Switching those solved the controller issue. But my controller still wasn't sensing and brakes on my trailer, so I had a buddy with a truck who's used the trailer before come hook up to it. No brakes. Start investigating, and the brake system has no continuity.

I traced all the wiring, found a broken broke power line at one of the pass-throughs into the frame by the front axle. Broken wire before they split off, so both axles were unpowered. I fixed the wire, but there's no gasket there or anything, so there's no reason that it won't happen again. I think I'm going to take some sealant or seam sealer or something and fill that space with it, so that i kind of locks the wires in place in that pass through. When the axles move for bumps, I'd rather it wear/ break wires OUTSIDE of the frame than have to pull the wiring through the entire frame again.

Now I've got a wired brake controller, which is better at the end of the day since I couldnt brake and use my turn signals with the RF unit. It worked great other than the weird turn signal behavior, and in hindsight, the fast that my brake wire was broken is likely why I couldnt get it to pair with the cabin controller again. Going to list the RF unit for sale soon, it was expensive, and while I'm doing long distance towing I'd rather have the knowledge that mine's hardwired in.
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Daily/ Tow: 2010 X5 35D - 326k, Deleted w/DUDMD Stage 2, Sutphin Trans tune, Comfort seat retrofit
Fun car: 2004 ZHP 6mt - 256k miles, z4m FCAB, stock. Drift car: 2001 330i for sale

Last edited by Spyro235; 03-02-2020 at 08:26 AM.. Reason: Reread my first statement, and it sounded unintentionally harsh. changed a bit.
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      03-02-2020, 12:56 PM   #12
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use this to protect the wires

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-...s%2C177&sr=8-3

it works well, also electrical tape over the sharp edges on the metal to protect the wiring
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      03-02-2020, 01:34 PM   #13
Spyro235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecastle View Post
use this to protect the wires

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-...s%2C177&sr=8-3

it works well, also electrical tape over the sharp edges on the metal to protect the wiring
admittedly, I haven't though of tat. I'll measure the hole in teh frame today so I cna order the right size. That should allow it to slide/ not get cut up. Thanks!
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