argento's alpine white X5M

[ryansbmw]

You are a wrapping machine

[argento]

Originally Posted by ryansbmw

You are a wrapping machine

One of the few inexpensive and fun things to do on this car :-)

Have you been doing any more wrapping lately?

[ryansbmw]

Originally Posted by argento

One of the few inexpensive and fun things to do on this car :-)

Have you been doing any more wrapping lately?

I have not. I could stand to re-wrap the long pieces on either side of the center arm rest. The back corner right above the rear air vents is a bit messy. I just havent been in the mood to take it all apart and I never see it since Im never in the back seat.

[Bowchow]

Looks great!

[x5m Fritz]

Originally Posted by argento

......
Here are some pix since I haven't posted anything in a while...

Final Template:
Attachment 2502039

Testing template on the mirror:
Attachment 2502040

Parts wrapped in gloss black:
Attachment 2502041

Attachment 2502042

Will post pix on vehicle when they get put back on...

Awesome work - congratulations....!

And by the way, when you posted the diference carbon fiber wraps, i also orderd just a 4-5 different carbon samples to experiment a little bit, exactly on the mirrors.... ;-)


keep on going on whit your posts - i follow gladly....

[argento]

Thanks for posting, much appreciated...

Coming soon...

I've been working the Bowers & Wilkins speaker upgrade to my S752A Individual audio system, but been posting my details on the General BMW X5 (E70) forum b/c of the collaboration with other members. To sum up, I found a guy who is building me custom XO's based on the B&W speakers and the E70 listener seating positions. Last week I sent mid and tweets off for frequency response testing to help create the custom E70 crossovers for the center dash, front doors, and rear doors. Now we'll get to see how these g-series B&W speakers actually fare. If it works out you'll be able to order the same XO kits since I already paid for the analysis. I'll keep you all updated here and hopefully it's not a flop...

Also FINALLY ordered the oem parts to install the dinan suspension kit...been sitting on this for years. I dusted off the DIY I was writing for this job (a combination of many diys found on forums plus TIS), I just need to do the install so I can finalize the writeup...actual install always varies from written.

Other stuff still on my list, but moved down: Android screen DAC audio adventure, removing oem exhaust tips w/o chopping and welding, F85 rotors...

[0-60Motorsports]

That's great. Thanks brother

[argento]

Where we stand today, 34,707 miles, kinda dusty and bad glare...

Shown here with Front 10mm spacers and Rear 15mm spacers. Soon to add parts on the bench: lowering springs, 12.5mm Front, 20mm Rear spacers, and titanium studs. An excel program I created (details later) tells me these are the closest I can get (F1.8mm/R4.3mm from fender flair edge) without exceeding the fender, given these 21" wheels and Michelin tires.

[JDAURIA]

Looking good Argento, can't believe only 34k miles!

[Jon_G]

Originally Posted by argento

REFERENCE POST #144 ABOVE for my exact Android Monitor Model and Purchase Options, as well as pre-purchase Q&A from the Vendor:

Some things to consider when installing the Android Monitor:

1. Prior to disconnecting the battery, move the passenger seat (or seat you plan to use for install) to a far forward comfortable position to keep you from having to lean forward as much. Also open glovebox.

2. The Android monitor needs GPS and the factory radio needs GPS (if vehicle equipped with factory NAV). IF your vehicle has the factory navigation option you can use the GPS splitter to split the radio GPS to the monitor **OR** leave GPS to the radio and install the provided GPS module (LVSD connection on back of monitor) somewhere in your dash near the windshield. If you don't have factory navigation, then you must install the provided GPS module.

3. If vehicle does not have middle dash speaker, then the two speaker wires in the provided Android harness are not used.

4. Install Harness - Camera +12V, Rear Camera RCA’s not used in installation if vehicle already equipped with backup camera.

5. On the back of the Android Monitor, plug in two smaller connectors first (if applicable to your application), b/c difficult to install if larger connector first installed

6. IF, once connected, audio is not picked via the factory harness, connect the Android AUX OUT to OEM AUX IN using an Aux Cable. You need at least a 4ft Aux Cable (very minimum). I recommend purchasing a better aux cable than is provided by the MFG of the monitor. See audio Methods in SOUND QUALITY post above for more info

7. If, after all connections are made, no OEM display can be seen then cycle through all CAR TYPES first to see if one works. I cycled through 9 and the ninth one worked for me. If still no display, disassemble monitor and check all monitor connectors

8. If you plan to use the Monitor's USBs, you'll likely need an 1m usb extension cable.

9. I created wiring diagrams in Visio showing oem wiring versus android wiring. PM me if you want me to email you a PDF.

10. Just a reminder that the flat black connector that connects into the OEM display is unused in the Android Monitor; tuck it away.

11. If you find the Android and OEM Monitors blank with no power and you CIC (radio) is also out, check fuse 142 (20A) in the trunk.

12. [UPDATED JAN.2021] AUTO DIMMING OPERATIONS:

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 100%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are same brightness
-Dimmer switch does nothing
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 0%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are same low dim output
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Android Brightness Setting 100%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are bright, I turn on lights, both oem and android screens switch to a random dimmed setting
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 0%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are dim, I turn on lights, NO switch to a random dim setting (guessing it's at the lowest already)
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

The LIGHTS ON auto dim setting is dependent on the Android brightness setting, with 0% the lowest setting in the system. Another option, if more adjustment is needed, is try the CF Lumens app or equivalent. It adjusts screen brightness automatically to time of day and it may have more adjustment options to fit the needs. NOTE: As I learned from Nyc Dito The Dimmer Switch and Control Display Screen Brightness settings don't work because the dimming wire remains with the OEM NAV connector that we tuck away once the Android Monitor is installed.

13. Questions to 4x4 Shop; Thanks to Ray for a response within the hour...

Q: The Android keeps going back to 24hour time, even after setting it to 12 hour in multiple locations.
A: You can go to setting-time-if you select original time will stay with 24 hours, if you select sync to GPS signal, you can do 12 hours format.

Q: The BACK button on the iDrive does not reboot the system per the instructions
A: The back button won’t reboot the system, mistake on the information.

Q: WIFI doesn’t automatically connect, even with settings set to do so;
A: You need to turn off the hotspot from your phone and turn it back on, time out on the hotspot from your phone.

Q: Do you have any insight why some E70 X5 installs don’t need the AUX OUT to OEM AUX IN connection to hear sound?
A: For E70, always need to run the aux cable from the power harness from android to your factory AUX jack.

Q: Is it possible to add the Developer menu option in SETTINGS>SYSTEM>ADVANCED>DEVELOPER OPTIONS>FEATURE FLAGS>settings_seamless transfer? I would like to switch between audio sources: AUX OUT and USB Audio OUT. I successfully am using USB Audio Out to a DAC and coupled with a specific player app (UAPP).
A: You can activate the developer mode, but we don’t recommend customer to do any modification on that.

Q: Does 4x4 Shop offer a front camera setup compatible with my interior Rear View Mirror setup that has high-beam assistant and rain sensor? [I had to send pix of my cover (51-16-9-216-739)].
A: NO.

Q: How do I connect the TV Tuner?
A: You should have one harness with 4-5 RCA jack on it, that is the one for video and audio input, you can use it for your TV tuner. You can get the power for the tv tuner from your factory cigarette lighter adapter.

Attachment 2324174

Attachment 2324175

Attachment 2324193


Plenty more info in this thread regarding other users installation and issues: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...highlight=avin

Good luck. Post more if you have them.

Hey argento - This thread has been super helpful on my journey trying to decide what unit I will buy to start my carplay retrofit. Thank you for all your thoughts here! I'm thinking to most likely get the 4x4 shop 10.25" android headunit—which i believe from this thread, is the same or similar to the one you have. It looks like you're an IOS user too. I really only care about having carplay and the nice new screen, and don't care about the android stuff. In an ideal world (for me personally) the screen would boot up and be carplay only, along with toggling back to OEM idrive stuff. This said, one thing I can't seem to figure out is how easy/fast it is to load up carplay on this 4x4 unit. Assuming you've paired the phone the first time after install, in the future when you re-start the car, how long does it take to actually get connected again over bluetooth/wifi, and into the carplay app? I watched many of their videos on youtube and can't really tell. Sometimes it takes almost a minute to connect and load, and you have to seemingly pair the phone each time. Maybe they weren't previously paired, other videos from 4x4 show the loading to carplay as immediate but maybe it's just an edit trick when the cut the video (the shot is mounted on a tripod). Anyhow, what are your steps? How long does it take for you to, for example, start the engine, and get into carplay and then into waze, ready to input your destination address? Also, can you type in the address on your phone, or do you have to type on the screen? Thanks in advance for your thoughts! It's been hard finding people who have an e70 and this 4x4 unit, who are also primarily ios users.

[Nyc Dito]

Originally Posted by argento

Where we stand today, 34,707 miles, kinda dusty and bad glare...

Shown here with Front 10mm spacers and Rear 15mm spacers. Soon to add parts on the bench: lowering springs, 12.5mm Front, 20mm Rear spacers, and titanium studs. An excel program I created (details later) tells me these are the closest I can get (F1.8mm/R4.3mm from fender flair edge) without exceeding the fender, given these 21" wheels and Michelin tires.


Attachment 2533430


Attachment 2533438

wow 34k! Car looks great Argento!

[argento]

[UPDATE 3Mar2023]

After running an Android Infotainment System since 2018, I’m updating my review of sound quality to be more succinct and organized. The most significant takeaway is that the Android 10 system musical audio output from the default integrated player via the OEM AUX-IN is actually VERY GOOD. If you’re interested in minor improvements, then continue reading…

In general, the typical method for sound output from the Android 10 through the OEM speakers is to play digital audio through a player. The player sends the digital signal to a digital to analog converter (DAC), which then outputs an analog signal to the OEM AUX-IN via aux cable. The OEM AUX-IN sends the analog signal to the OEM amp and then on to the OEM speakers.

The out-of-the-box configuration of the Android 10 Infotainment system uses an integrated Android 10 player to send the digital signal to the integrated Android DAC. All other Android applications also send audio signal to the integrated Android DAC. The DAC outputs an analog signal down the integrated aux cable. An aftermarket aux cable is used to extend the signal to the OEM AUX-IN.

The following are audio upgrades to consider adding to this default configuration, however none of them provide a complete package:

UPGRADE AUX CABLE - In general, one impactful improvement is to consider using a high quality aux cable. While there are in-depth discussions arguing that aux cable quality does not make a difference, I found this tangibly incongruent to what I heard when comparing within my system. I heard significant improvements using AudioQuest products (IE: Big Sur and Evergreen, >$100) over standard (<$25) Amazon and Monster aux cables. Use compressed air to ensure the AUX-IN port and aux cable male plug are free of lint or debris. Any debris can add crackling or static to the audio signal.
ADD A MUSIC PLAYER APP – If music listening is a priority, then you’ll be disappointed with the integrated Android player’s poor audio setting capabilities. Adding a music player application can provide sophisticated audio setting features to help improve audio quality. Especially if combined with a RTA tuning. A good quality music player will have a 10+ band equalizer, parametric options, and many more audio features. It will also be able to recognize all DACs, integrated or not, within the system and allow automatic selection of the chosen DAC at startup. I used the USB Audio Player Pro (UAPP) application which provides all the mentioned features and much more.

ADD AN AFTERMARKET USB DAC – Again, if music listening is a priority, then consider sending audio through a well-made aftermarket DAC. The integrated DAC is sufficient, but in testing I found the audio quality was tangibly improved by adding an aftermarket DAC in combination with the UAPP app. The Android 10 comes with a USB audio output cable; however, you’ll need a USB extension (and minor modifications to trim piece) if you want the DAC located in the armrest center console. Then use a shorter aux cable from the DAC to the OEM AUX-IN. The UAPP app recognizes both DACs at app startup and you can set the aftermarket DAC as preferred. However, there are some significant limitations to this setup, especially if music isn’t your priority. Unless all other Android applications are sophisticated enough to identify which DAC is active, and most are not, then their sound will default through the integrated DAC, which is effectively unplugged (no sound) from the OEM AUX-IN. My next used application is Waze, but this app allows you to select your device as the sound source. While it’s not too feasible, I routed both aux cables to my armrest center console and can swap between integrated and aftermarket DAC if truly needed. ABOUT USB DACs, I tested nine (9) different DACs with this Android 10 and the easiest to use with the best audio quality were the AudioQuest Dragonfly Red and Cobalt. I also added an inline USB noise filter (AQ Jitterbug).

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS: Adding a sophisticated player app and an aftermarket USB DAC made significant improvements in my vehicle’s musical audio output. However, I’ve since retrofitted BMW Bower’s & Wilkins speakers as well as custom matched crossovers and RTA tune. The improvement in audio clarity and bass, using the OEM S752A amplifier, are exceptional but realistically do not outweigh the cost of such an upgrade. I can say that these improvements have made the out-of-the-box configuration through the OEM AUX-IN sound much improved and likely contribute heavily to the takeaway that the Android 10 default sound is very good.

[argento]

Superseded by Post #210.

[argento]

This job looks easy, but as I found out, it's filled with pit falls. I started with just wanting to wrap my white painted drip moldings in matte black vinyl wrap. I tried wrapping with the molding in place, but I couldn’t get a nice fit and finish. Working around the gasket was cumbersome and I ended up wrinkling the vinyl edges, then dislodging part of the gasket and it wouldn’t easily return to place. Well, it looks like you have to remove the molding to get a proper wrap.

I begin by removing the first two lower clips using a metal pry tool sitting on top of a nylon pry tool to protect the glass. Try to use a longer pry tool to make removal easier. As I struggled with the third clip, I naturally (without thinking) tried pulling up from the already unclipped lower end of the molding to get some leverage. The molding very easily bent up 45 degrees…TRASHED.

I ordered two new drip moldings (Left 51-31-7-250-395 and Right 51-31-7-250-395) and they come with gaskets. You will also want to buy new clips all around. There are three different clips per side, realoem shows you the details. These moldings arrive in black, probably primed or ready to be primed because the surface is not presentable as-is. They are satin with a randomly brushed surface. My plan was to wrap the molding as-is and if the new owner wants them painted white they are primed and ready for painting. Quickly wrapped one up and installed the gasket on the molding. It’s a one-piece gasket per side, but very long with a slit/cut down the middle. Each half of the gasket installs differently via channels in the molding. For each gasket half, I recommend you start in the middle of the molding and work toward the ends. I did this, but the ends of the gasket looked floppy and misaligned to the curve of the molding ends. I figured once installed they’d tighten up into the right position with a little adjustment. To install the molding, you have to align it to the body and then press down on the part of the molding directly above each clip (marking clip locations prior to this step is recommended). Also, the molding gasket that interfaces with the glass by default wants to fold down over itself, so afterward you have to come back and properly seat the gasket on the windshield. This try was a FAIL; the gasket ends remained floppy and misaligned no matter what I did. A quick check of the molding I pulled off revealed the ends are going to need adhesive to make this look OEM.

Back to the pry tool to remove the molding and hopefully you didn’t remove the tape marking the clip locations (so you easily know exactly where to pry). The upper most clip was trouble because the two pieces of the clip separated and got tangled up. I spent about 15m trying to remove gingerly so I wouldn’t damage the molding or the vinyl wrap. I believe the gap in the clip was tighter than the other clips. I finally removed the molding, but noticed I pinched some of the gasket channels. Apparently you can’t easily pry these back up (steel) without some force and I didn’t want to mess up the wrap or the molding. With channels pinched, the gasket comes out easily, but harder to install. Luckily it wasn’t too bad and the gasket could be reinstalled, crisis averted.

Ordered some 3M gasket adhesive from Amazon. You need to apply the adhesive in one quick procedure, so get everything you need ready and close by. I recommend using a fan to blow the fumes away from your work area. The goal is to apply the right amount of adhesive and clamp without damaging the matte black vinyl or getting adhesive everywhere. You have to apply adhesive to both sides of the surfaces to be mated. Then wait for it to get tacky and apply the clamp. You can’t put too much or else you’ll have adhesive oozing out everywhere when you clamp. Fortunately, within the first few minutes after application, you can pull away any minor excess but it’s stringy and can quickly get messy. It will start holding place within ~20 minutes, depending on your environment. Choose a proper clamp that doesn’t mangle the vinyl or your paint…I taped up the vinyl side beforehand. I thought I could get away with only gluing the upper end of the molding, but no, you need to apply adhesive to both ends. DONE. NOTE: As shown in the pic, do not install the gasket into the channels before gluing the ends, or else the gasket ends will be preloaded and make it harder for the clamp to hold in place. This ended up being way more work than I thought, but in the end it looks OEM. Now repeat, with no errors, for the other side.

Some additional install/removal notes:
-These drip moldings are shaped with a “T” cross section and are effectively pressed into clips mounted in the exterior A-frame of the body and held in place by friction. Install the clips on the body A-frame, align the molding, then press on the molding over each clip making sure the gasket is properly seated on inside and outside. Mark, with tape, the clip locations prior to installation so you know where to press. You will hear a 'zipping' noise as the molding gets pressed into the clip.

-The gaskets themselves are mounted into channels in the molding by friction only. One side of the gasket is done by hand and requires little effort. Just slowly press the gasket lip into the thin channel, do not force. I recommend aligning the gasket at one end, then press in place every other inch or two as you work toward the opposite end. Then come back and install the rest. Otherwise, pressing in the gasket consecutively toward the end causes stretching and then you end up with excess gasket at the ends. The other side of the gasket required me to press the gasket with my finger while simultaneously pushing down with a flat nylon pry tool. The channel in the molding is wider, like a flat “U”. It takes a few tries to get it in place, but once you understand it goes quickly. Perpendicular to the direction of how the gasket mounts, you can tell when the gasket is properly installed, it sits firm and flat on the molding surface.

-Removal is more tricky and must be done carefully to avoid bending the molding strip. Prying strip molding out of clips can be done but one must pry directly at each clip location and do not pull up on already released strip molding. Sometimes, if the clip is too tight on the molding strip, the clip will start to disassemble when prying on the molding. The metal part of the clip (attached to the molding) will uncouple from the plastic part of the clip (fixed to the body). This could be caused b/c the clip gap was too small, causing a high friction fit. To avoid this, you could check the clip gaps before install by testing them on the old molding. Or you can take a small flathead and gauge that they all have about the same gap.

-To remove the larger clips, you need a very small flat head screwdriver to lift the locking tab, then slide the clip downward, then pull away from body pin to remove.

PIX:

Marking the windshield with clip locations:


Lower two clips are different part numbers from the remaining upper clips:


How I pried the molding without damaging the windshield:


Example of how molding surface arrived:


This gasket adhesive worked perfectly:


Workspace I used to apply adhesive, not showing fan to dissipate the fumes:


Closeup of molding and seal clamped:


Upper gasket glued to molding; Shown wrapped in 3M 2080 Matte Deep Black:


Thin vs Wide Channel description for gasket install:


Thin Channel gasket Installation:


Wide Channel gasket before and after proper installation:


How I installed Wide Channel gasket using a pry tool; pinch and press:


Clip removal; This applies to all but the lower-most clip:


In ISTA, these are called GUTTER STRIPS:

[argento]

Trying out matte black reflectors for a while..goes with the other black bits...

[argento]

DIFFUSER UPDATE 6/11/2021: It's been 7 months since I vinyl wrapped the diffuser, a couple washes, 223 miles, and always garaged. The wrap is sustaining very well, but it's apparent that the inside corners on each side of the fins has too much tension. There is some delamination (bubbles) in those areas, however the rest is holding up exceptionally well. This SOTT vinyl would be a good wrap for the roof, however I've noticed over the past couple months that this vinyl wrap is 'out of stock' just about everywhere. My second choice CF vinyl would be the 3M 2080 CF Black b/c it has a texture that makes it look like real weave...although it's matte and not glossy. If you asked me today, I'd probably recommend a CF diffuser cover instead of wrapping, unless you are OR go to an expert vinyl installer. $0.02.

ALSO, I will most likely take a fine pin and relieve the air in the bubbles and keep it a while longer.

NOTE: In hindsight I could have used Rapid Tac on the fins..I even have some in hand...it eliminates bubbles and helps adhesion in the area sprayed. I made a choice not to use it, but sounds like a bad call, lol.

[argento]

Coming soon...

Cleaned, brushed w/Boeshield T9 on non-friction surfaces to reduce future rust. DO NOT APPLY lubricants to friction areas (where pads operate). Our discs are monstrous in size and I didn't grasp that until I had these in my hands...and these are only the rears...fronts on order...

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

Coming soon...

Cleaned, brushed w/Boeshield T9 on non-friction surfaces to reduce future rust. DO NOT APPLY lubricants to friction areas (where pads operate). Our discs are monstrous in size and I didn't grasp that until I had these in my hands...and these are only the rears...fronts on order...



Attachment 2625709

Attachment 2625710

I did the f85 brake discs a few months ago and they are awesome. You'll love them. Let us know what pads you decide to go with.

[argento]

Been pretty quiet lately but am finally working on the M. Actually not yet finished, but thought I'd post some pix. Decided to install the F85 rotors as I installed the dinan springs. Add cleaning and it really extended the effort required and waiting until summer was a bad idea, the heat slows it all down. I only installed the F85 rotors on the rear during this run...I got side-tracked by that NIB Akropovic muffler and blew some budget on that and tips, but I'm sure it will be well worth it, more on that later.

-Pic of rear caliper after cleaning it up with Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 1 Car Paint Cleaner. Dingy.
-Pic of the caliper after buffing with Griot's Correcting cream and a lake county green polishing pad and some ceramic coating.
-Next two pix of rotor installed with TMS 20mm spacers
-Final pic with wheel on and Titanium bolts.

[argento]

Been sitting on this for a while. Finally working and should wrap it up this weekend. Cleaning all around certainly elongates this activity. I was surprised at the heftiness of the suspension components compared to my E46M3 or E36M3, when I last did suspension work. Thanks to my dad who spent a day building a stand for this old 100lb vice so that I could mount the spring compressor (it was more complex than it looks).

I wrote up a detailed DIY, but as usual not everything went as written, so I have some work to do to update the document. One part that has me questioning is the orientation of the RF strut end cap. While the LF was keyed just like ISTA says, the RF came out of the car not keyed like ISTA said it should be. The endcap is properly aligned to the assembly as shown by the factory blue alignment marks. So I'm reinstalling with the same keying that the assembly came out of the car.

-Pic of lifting position on the rear diff and some under-cleaning
-Pic of Vice/Stand for Spring Compressor
-LF Strut Assembly installed







More later...

[argento]

Ok, juggling several projects now...these long awaited custom crossovers are fabricated. Matched to B&W Midrange and Tweeters for the 4X Doors and 1X Dash Center Channel.

Lots to discuss on this topic, but my next priorities are 1) Spring Install DIY (95% done), 2) Akrapovic Muffler Install, 3) Front F85 Rotors, and then this 3) B&W Speaker Upgrade.

Custom Crossovers's, what am I talking about? Late last year we learned that B&W speakers from the G05, 06, and 07 series were plug and play into the E70 depending on which audio system option you have. I have the S752A Audio option (aka Individual Audio System). I started with the D-pillars and then center dash. Next were the doors, but I got distracted by a post back in Jan-Feb in the General E70 forums where some were discussing crossovers to use with the B&W speakers. I then stumbled across a custom high end speaker designer and crossover fabricator and he agreed to build me some XO's. I sent him a B&W Tweeter and Midrange and he performed a speaker frequency analysis. I also provided him with other details about the upgrade, took measurements, etc. It took him 5 months b/c he was so busy, but he finished this past week. Here's a sneak peek at them...


B&W (Tweeter and Midrange) Speaker Frequency Analysis used for crossover design. He mentioned these were decent or maybe just above average speakers (possibly didn't want to burst my bubble), but not exceptional. However he also said he's seen many high end high dollar speakers on the market fair worse:



Fabricated crossover's w/o lead wires attached:



Custom Crossover Response for all five Crossovers (near perfect match):



Final System Response with XO's attached to the B&W drivers:



I found these Takachi enclosures and the designer made the crossovers to fit in these. They are actually polycarbonate/clear, but I haven't taken the protective film off yet. I will not be using the PCB studs, I will actually be hot melting the board in place. These are actually a VERY NICE kit meant for Raspberries, direct order from Japan. Great customer service, very nice. They sent a questionnaire to gather info that could help with their new enclosure designs.


A lot still to do...I'll need some custom pigtails which I've already designed with OEM connectors, but have to build...still need to buy the rest of the drivers, figure out where/how to mount crossovers, etc. Also, in case you're wondering, I did mention to him that others may be interested in the same and recommended he keep the design, he didn't comment. But given my verbose descriptions and long emails, he was extremely patient, lol.

OH and if you are wondering why I didn't use the Diamond Tweeters, I was talked out of it, FWIW some opinion: "The main advantage they have is that the membrane works as a piston higher in frequency allowing greater clarity but other than that, they have a rolled off top end and sound harsher than metal. The metal domes can be made thinner and easier to dampen the ringing, also the metal domes weigh less and had more output at the top..........there is much more to be said, but wont go into it too much here. I designed many hi-fi tweeters. Personally, I would go with the metal dome over the diamond dome as the diamond will have a lack of air due to its fall off above 10khz. Since you are listening off axis mostly in a car, you want a boost above 10khz, not a roll-off". . I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that BMW accounts for some of this in their system and amp, but I'm using my S752 amp, so...in the end I didn't need much more rationalization to spend LESS money and use the regular tweeters, lol.

More to come...

[argento]

[UPDATED 11/28/2022]

Full DIY PDF:
DIY REV.2_E70X5M Dinan Spring Install_argento-xbimmers_21Feb2022.pdf

After replacing my rear air springs this month (Nov.2022) my ride heights have finally settled and are accurate and repeatable values. In the front I'm at a ride height of of 727mm (measured from the lower rim lip through center cap to the fender per ISTA+). I don't think I ever measured the pre-install ride height accurately, but suffice to say it's a minimum of 0.5" drop and maximum of 0.75" drop. The rear is a bit more complicated b/c I was trying to get it just right, but with rear air springs compromised (unbeknownst to me) it was a moving target. I caved and just took it in and had them adjust the rear to 718mm (measured from the lower rim lip to the fender per ISTA+). The 718mm was based on, again, math with bad air springs. With new air springs and now a steady ride height the rear ultimately sits 1/4" below the front. Honestly, it looks decent enough to leave as-is. Taking measurements per ISTA+ removes the parked surface from the equation...while my garage looks flat, it's not.


DISCLAIMER: This Checklist only lists highlights and is for REFERENCE ONLY. It serves only as backup to help ensure major steps have been addressed. See DIY for details and only use latest version. This procedure represents one method of installation on a specific vehicle and is shared/posted for **REFERENCE ONLY**. This procedure requires **CAUTION** as it involves heavy loads and stored potential energy that could cause serious personal injury and/or vehicle damage if mechanical disassembly and/or assembly is performed improperly. Use extreme caution and all applicable safety processes when working on your vehicle. This procedure is based on a collection of other DIYs as referenced in the Reference Section of the DIY, as well as ISTA.


CHECKLIST NOTES:
- 2013 E70 X5M
- Checklist based on a complete and consecutive Dinan Spring Install from front to rear axle.
- NORMAL POSITION TORQUE: As required and defined by ISTA, place vehicle in ‘normal position’. For those fastenings called out to be torqued in normal position, note that the rear fasteners in this DIY can be accessed with the wheels mounted and vehicle on the ground. For the front axle, this is not easily the case. There is a method recommended by a third party used and referenced in the full DIY that simulates ‘normal position’.

PRE-INSTALLATION (Prior to Jacking)
☐ (optional) Record ride height for reference
☐ (optional) Fold mirrors to decrease obstructions around vehicle
☐ Position vehicle with steering straight ahead
☐ Ensure emergency brake is OFF
☐ In trunk, disconnect negative battery cable. [10mm Socket; M6 Nut 5Nm]
☐ In trunk, for vehicles without third row seating, lift trunk lid and remove carpet trim to access rear strut top mounting bolts. [pry tool]
☐ In engine bay, remove left and right microfilter grated housing covers and right microfilter housing assembly. [13mm Socket]
☐ In engine bay, loosen left and right partition walls and rotate toward vehicle center for access to front strut housing. [pry tool; 5mm Hex Allen; 10mm Socket]
☐ Jack vehicle, place jack stands, and remove wheels. If jacking one axle at a time, use wheel chocks as necessary. [Hydraulic Jack; Jack Pads; Chocks; 17mm Socket; Wheel Hangar; M14 Nut 140Nm]
☐ Place removed wheels under vehicle side skirts as additional safety backup.


FRONT AXLE
☐ Rotate hub/disc rotor so that concave indentions point in vehicle forward direction or OEM marked surfaces point upwards.
☐ Mark rotor/hub orientation so that if the driveshaft uncouples from the final drive and the rotor/hub is unknowingly rotated, you know the approx. orientation of the hub to reinsert driveshaft.
☐ Remove hydraulic brake line clamp with pliers and uncouple grommet/line from strut brake line bracket. [Pliers]
☐ LEFT SIDE ONLY, uncouple (friction fit) brake pad wear sensor cable from strut brake line bracket.
☐ Decouple EDC connectors and cables to allow untethered strut removal from vehicle. Blue connector sits above black connector. Consider removing other cable/connectors in vicinity to help facilitate smoother strut assembly removal.
☐ Support lower control arm with hydraulic jack and wooden block(s) as needed.
☐ Remove stabilizer link from swivel bearing by removing M12 nut. Adjust hydraulic jack as needed to unload sway bar for link removal. Use socket and breaker bar to first loosen nut, then proceed with wrench and Torx socket. Note bolt insertion is in direction of forward travel. [18mm Box End Wrench; T35 Torx Socket]
☐ Disconnect swivel bearing from upper control arm by removing M10 bolt and nut. Adjust hydraulic jack as needed to facilitate bolt removal. Note bolt insertion is in direction of forward travel. Bearing surfaces to remain clean and oil free; [16mm Socket; 16mm Box End Wrench]
☐ Tether swivel bearing as it becomes unwieldly and naturally leans outward and can disconnect drive shaft from final drive. [Rope]
☐ Remove spring strut holder to strut assembly M12 bolt. Note bolt insertion is in direction of forward travel. Bearing surfaces to remain clean and oil free. [18mm Socket]
☐ At lower control arm disconnect spring strut holder by removing M14 Bolt and Nut. Adjust hydraulic jack as needed to facilitate bolt removal. Note bolt insertion is in direction of forward travel. [21mm Socket; 21mm Box/Open End Wrench]
☐ With Suspension in lowest position, separate spring strut holder from strut assembly and remove spring strut holder from area. Use steering knuckle expanding tool to unclamp strut from strut holder as needed. [Knuckle Expanding Tool]
☐ In engine bay strut tower, with strut assembly supported from beneath, remove three M8 nuts at strut tower. [13mm Socket]
☐ Remove strut assembly downwards and out of wheel arch. Record photos capturing relative position of OEM components for future assembly of stock configuration.
☐ Using Spring Compressor Tool per manufacturer instructions and slowly compress OEM coil sring and remove M12 Strut Nut. Then slowly decompress OEM Coil Spring for spring removal. [18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool; 6mm Allen Wrench]
☐ On bench, place Dinan auxiliary pads and new strut components onto strut assembly. Orient upper spring pads to ISTA key coding specifications.
☐ Using Spring Compressor Tool per manufacturer instructions, with strut assembly and Dinan coil spring properly oriented per ISTA, slowly compress Dinan coil spring until strut nut can be installed and torqued. After strut nut is installed, slowly decompress Dinan coil spring. [18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool; 6mm Allen Wrench; 21mm Box End Wrench or Crescent; M12 Nut 48Nm]
☐ Insert strut assembly with Dinan coil spring into strut tower and install three new M8 nuts but do not tighten yet. Only install to ensure strut assembly is supported.
☐ Insert spring strut holder onto strut assembly via strut alignment pin and position spring strut holder onto lower control arm.
☐ Install spring strut holder to lower control arm M14 bolt and nut. Tighten but do not torque yet as that will be done under ‘normal position’. [21mm socket; 21mm open end wrench]
☐ Install spring strut holder to strut assembly M12 bolt. Hand-tighten (snug) but do not fully torque yet as strut assembly will need to settle into spring strut holder at ‘normal position’. [18mm Socket; Knuckle Expanding Tool]
☐ Install M12 nut for stabilizer link to swivel bearing. If needed adjust hydraulic jack to unload sway bar for link installation. Tighten but do not torque yet. [18mm Box End Wrench; T35 Torx Socket]
☐ Install upper control arm to swivel bearing M10 nut and torque. [16mm Socket; 16mm Box End Wrench; M10 Nut 56Nm]
☐ Torque stabilizer link M12 nut. [18mm Socket; M12 Nut 100Nm]
☐ Tighten and torque strut tower M8 nuts. [13mm Socket; M8 Nuts 28Nm]
☐ Install EDC Connectors and route cables.
☐ Install brake line clamp and LEFT SIDE ONLY brake pad wear sensor cable.
☐ Place vehicle in ‘normal position’ per ISTA. This may need to be done after rear axle complete and rear wheels on the ground. Consider using hydraulic jack, position jack stands under lower control arm and load suspension to mimic ‘normal position’.
☐ First torque lower control arm to spring strut holder M14 bolt in ‘normal position’. [21mm Socket; 21mm Box End Wrench; M14 Bolt 165Nm in Normal Position]
☐ Then torque spring strut holder to strut assembly M12 nut in ‘normal position’. [16mm Socket; M12 Bolt 81Nm, Torque in Normal Position]
☐ If needed, for rear axle work, return vehicle to nominal lifted configuration using hydraulic jack and jack stands.
Front Axle Complete.

REAR AXLE
☐ Partially detach rear wheel fender linings (or remove rear bumper) and disconnect VDM cable routing and plugs at connector box to allow strut removal from vehicle.
☐ Remove hydraulic brake line clamp with pliers and uncouple grommet/line from strut brake line bracket.
☐ Remove M14 bolt connecting shock absorber to control arm. But first support wheel hub or control arm with hydraulic jack to unload bolt and then remove. (21mm Socket)
Supporting strut assembly from underneath to prevent it from falling out, remove three M10 nuts from strut tower in luggage compartment. A new sealing grommet is recommended at installation. (16mm Socket)
☐ On bench, disassemble strut assembly by removing M12 nut. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool; 6mm Allen Wrench)
☐ Replace OEM auxiliary pad with Dinan auxiliary pad, install new components, and reassembly strut assembly. Torque M12 Nut. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool; 6mm Allen Wrench; M12 Nut 34Nm)
☐ Insert strut assembly into strut tower and install three new M10 nuts and torque. (16mm Socket; M10 Nut 56Nm)
☐ Adjust hydraulic jack as needed to insert M14 bolt into lower control arm and strut assembly. Tighten in place, but do not torque yet as torquing requires vehicle to be in ‘normal position’.
☐ Reconnect EDC connectors and route cables. Re-install fender linings (or bumper).
☐ Install brake line clamp
☐ Remove OEM sensor rods. (10mm Socket; 8mm and 8.5mm Box End Wrench)
☐ Install Dinan Sensor Rods that have been each set to a length of 69.4mm/2.732” (M6 Nut 8Nm)
☐ Mount front and rear wheels and lower the vehicle in reverse order of raising (17mm Socket; M14 Nuts 140Nm)
☐ Torque lower control arm to strut assembly M14 bolt. (21mm Socket; M14 Bolt 165Nm in Normal Position)
Rear Axle Complete.

FINISHING THE INSTALL
☐ Confirm Torque of all Fastenings
☐ Install Engine Trim in reverse order of disassembly
☐ Install Trunk Trim in reverse order of disassembly
☐ Reconnect negative battery cable in reverse order of disassembly
☐ On vehicles with BMW Active Front Steering (AFS), set Steering Angle:
-Start Engine
-Turn steering wheel left to full lock.
-Turn steering wheel right to full lock.

Consider performing as needed (diagnostic system needed):
☐ Perform 4-wheel computerized alignment
☐ Headlight Adjustment
☐ Ride Height Calibration (not required with Dinan Sensor Rods)
☐ Vertical acceleration sensor adjustment
NOTE: If possible, allow Dinan coil springs to settle a few days prior to ride height adjustments.

CHECKLIST END.


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The DIY is about 40 pages, including the checklist above. It includes a torque table, the required parts needing replacement (per ISTA), a tools list, and lots of figures and explanation. Most will not likely want or need all this info, but it will be available. I reviewed all the suspension DIY's I could find and referenced them and their links, coupled with procedures from ISTA. Once I'm finished I'll offer to post the PDF.

DIY Excerpt, Third Party Simulation of Normal Position (REF ONLY):