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      11-26-2020, 03:40 AM   #1
slovakE70
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N63 engine – Engine fault, reduced power

Hello guys,

Last couple days i am getting Engine fault message on idrive. It happened 3 times already in last 5 days. No prior problems or faults with the engine nor with the car. First time it happend i was driving normaly pulling from stop sign and engine fault message pop up. But engine was running normally, no misfiring, knocking etc. So i pulled over, restart the car and no more idrive message. I was 20 miles from home, so drove home with no problems. 3 miles from home i stopped at gas station, filled her up and as soon as i drowe away from gas station Engine fault again but this time with check engine light. But again engine was running fine and smooth.
Next day i started the car and all was good exept check engine light still lit on the dashboard, but no idrive message and engine was running smooth. Went to my friend - mechanic who has OBD2 scanner and this codes it showed :

P0022 - "A" CAMSHAFT position- timing over-retarded (Bank 2)
2A7F – VANOS intake

So it looks to me like Vanos solenoid is becoming faulty – maybe dirty / clogged up ? We erased the codes and i was back on the road with no problems.
Yesterday same scenario, was driving through traffic and Engine fault on idrive poped-up (no CEL this time) but engine ran smooth. So pulled over, restarted it and message went away and all was back to normal. I didn't have time to scan it yet, but even this morning car started fine (cold start at -2 C / 28 F) and no Engine fault or rpm fluctuation.
So is this just random Vanos solenoid malfunction or maybe cam sprocket getting faulty ? Im changing oil every 5000 miles and last oil change was 2500 miles ago (fresh 5W-40 LL-01 oil with MANN filter) so i don't see how solenoids can get dirty/cloged but understand these things can wear out.
So can i just take out Vanos solenoids and clean them ? I was thinking maybe clean them and swap the intake and exhaust and see if code returns to exhaust cam - that should confirm faulty solenoid, isn't it ?
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      11-26-2020, 06:45 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovakE70 View Post
Hello guys,

Last couple days i am getting Engine fault message on idrive. It happened 3 times already in last 5 days. No prior problems or faults with the engine nor with the car. First time it happend i was driving normaly pulling from stop sign and engine fault message pop up. But engine was running normally, no misfiring, knocking etc. So i pulled over, restart the car and no more idrive message. I was 20 miles from home, so drove home with no problems. 3 miles from home i stopped at gas station, filled her up and as soon as i drowe away from gas station Engine fault again but this time with check engine light. But again engine was running fine and smooth.
Next day i started the car and all was good exept check engine light still lit on the dashboard, but no idrive message and engine was running smooth. Went to my friend - mechanic who has OBD2 scanner and this codes it showed :

P0022 - "A" CAMSHAFT position- timing over-retarded (Bank 2)
2A7F – VANOS intake

So it looks to me like Vanos solenoid is becoming faulty – maybe dirty / clogged up ? We erased the codes and i was back on the road with no problems.
Yesterday same scenario, was driving through traffic and Engine fault on idrive poped-up (no CEL this time) but engine ran smooth. So pulled over, restarted it and message went away and all was back to normal. I didn't have time to scan it yet, but even this morning car started fine (cold start at -2 C / 28 F) and no Engine fault or rpm fluctuation.
So is this just random Vanos solenoid malfunction or maybe cam sprocket getting faulty ? Im changing oil every 5000 miles and last oil change was 2500 miles ago (fresh 5W-40 LL-01 oil with MANN filter) so i don't see how solenoids can get dirty/cloged but understand these things can wear out.
So can i just take out Vanos solenoids and clean them ? I was thinking maybe clean them and swap the intake and exhaust and see if code returns to exhaust cam - that should confirm faulty solenoid, isn't it ?
I would recommend you just replace it, getting to them it a bit of work, requiring removal of the Intercooler. Possible could be the cam adjuster or timing chain stretch but usually it's the solenoids. If you have ISTA and a DCAN cable, you can test the solenoids and see if they are out of spec. The new Solenoids have an improved design

If you do change it, don't forget to run the intercooler bleeding procedure after. Don't have it in front of me but if you search the web you will find it.
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      11-26-2020, 08:30 AM   #3
slovakE70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
I would recommend you just replace it, getting to them it a bit of work, requiring removal of the Intercooler. Possible could be the cam adjuster or timing chain stretch but usually it's the solenoids. If you have ISTA and a DCAN cable, you can test the solenoids and see if they are out of spec. The new Solenoids have an improved design

If you do change it, don't forget to run the intercooler bleeding procedure after. Don't have it in front of me but if you search the web you will find it.
Thank you for advice.

I was watching some Youtube videos and saw some guy testing them by connecting to 9V battery and see if they are actuating. Maybe could be a good idea test them this way before purchasing new ones ?
I know that getting to them is some work but that's not a problem for me.

Another question - timing chain stretch - if that would be the case, tensioner should be fully extended right ? Maybe i even take out timing cover and look at tensioner, just to be sure (as i will already be there).

Maybe a noob question, just to be 100 % sure - Bank 2 is cylinder 5 - 8 right ? driver side ?
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      11-26-2020, 09:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovakE70 View Post
Thank you for advice.

I was watching some Youtube videos and saw some guy testing them by connecting to 9V battery and see if they are actuating. Maybe could be a good idea test them this way before purchasing new ones ?
I know that getting to them is some work but that's not a problem for me.

Another question - timing chain stretch - if that would be the case, tensioner should be fully extended right ? Maybe i even take out timing cover and look at tensioner, just to be sure (as i will already be there).

Maybe a noob question, just to be 100 % sure - Bank 2 is cylinder 5 - 8 right ? driver side ?
That test won't help you much, if the solenoid was completely dead you would get an error within a minute of startup. If you have a decent laptop, I really recommend you download ISTA and pickup a DCAN cable so you can test. The Tests In ISTA were extensive and showed me that the other three solenoids on my engine were getting out of spec too even though they had not thrown codes yet so I just replaced them all. It shows you live data as it tests of the cam advance/retard it is requesting vs actual. You can recalibrate it after installing new Solenoids too which is recommended. Amazon has the DCAN cables I can find a link to the one I use which as worked excellent. I downloaded from bimmergeeks

With ISTA you will have access to all of the BMW workshop manuals again. It's kinda of a pain to install and learn but worth it.

Yep bank 2 is drivers side.
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      11-26-2020, 10:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
That test won't help you much, if the solenoid was completely dead you would get an error within a minute of startup. If you have a decent laptop, I really recommend you download ISTA and pickup a DCAN cable so you can test. The Tests In ISTA were extensive and showed me that the other three solenoids on my engine were getting out of spec too even though they had not thrown codes yet so I just replaced them all. It shows you live data as it tests of the cam advance/retard it is requesting vs actual. You can recalibrate it after installing new Solenoids too which is recommended. Amazon has the DCAN cables I can find a link to the one I use which as worked excellent. I downloaded from bimmergeeks

With ISTA you will have access to all of the BMW workshop manuals again. It's kinda of a pain to install and learn but worth it.

Yep bank 2 is drivers side.

Can you use the "virtual machine" ISTA to run these tests as well, if ISTA isnt installed on your main computer itself. I guess the VM would need access to the USB COMs.
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      11-26-2020, 10:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawgz View Post
Can you use the "virtual machine" ISTA to run these tests as well, if ISTA isnt installed on your main computer itself. I guess the VM would need access to the USB COMs.
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with that so I couldn't help you. I just got a low priced used laptop with win7 on it and loaded it up on it. I think it's the best way to make sure no issues,.
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      11-27-2020, 02:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
That test won't help you much, if the solenoid was completely dead you would get an error within a minute of startup. If you have a decent laptop, I really recommend you download ISTA and pickup a DCAN cable so you can test. The Tests In ISTA were extensive and showed me that the other three solenoids on my engine were getting out of spec too even though they had not thrown codes yet so I just replaced them all. It shows you live data as it tests of the cam advance/retard it is requesting vs actual. You can recalibrate it after installing new Solenoids too which is recommended. Amazon has the DCAN cables I can find a link to the one I use which as worked excellent. I downloaded from bimmergeeks

With ISTA you will have access to all of the BMW workshop manuals again. It's kinda of a pain to install and learn but worth it.

Yep bank 2 is drivers side.
Yeah it would be nice to have ISTA, but installing it and make it run is way beyond my computer skill level, lol.
Maybe if there exist some detailed steb by step manual i would give it a shot. As it looks like to have it is a must when owning a N63 haha.
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      11-27-2020, 05:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovakE70 View Post
Yeah it would be nice to have ISTA, but installing it and make it run is way beyond my computer skill level, lol.
Maybe if there exist some detailed steb by step manual i would give it a shot. As it looks like to have it is a must when owning a N63 haha.
You can get a nice laptop with everything loaded and ready to go and all cables for around 400, so if you have the cash, it's a great investment and can be used with newer models as comes with the Enet cable along with th DCAN. Quite a few different sellers selling similar setups on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Diagnos...UAAOSwsihfFxQq
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      11-27-2020, 06:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
You can get a nice laptop with everything loaded and ready to go and all cables for around 400, so if you have the cash, it's a great investment and can be used with newer models as comes with the Enet cable along with th DCAN. Quite a few different sellers selling similar setups on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Diagnos...UAAOSwsihfFxQq
Thank you, will look into that.

There is a chance to download and install software for free, but is complicated right ? As far as i understand
Looks like for me would be better to buy ready to go laptop....
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      11-27-2020, 07:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovakE70 View Post
Thank you, will look into that.

There is a chance to download and install software for free, but is complicated right ? As far as i understand
Looks like for me would be better to buy ready to go laptop....
Installing is a pain in the ass start to finish, setting up the com drivers and getting ISTA to work with it can take hours of frustration depending on your laptops chipset. For me I had to go back to older chipset drivers to make it work. Not to mention the first DCAN cable I bought was junk and had to get another. There are alot of junk ones out there.

If your not to into computers, then I would just purchase one like linked above that is all setup and ready to go. Plus if you ever decide you don't need it anymore, you can just resell it and get all of your money back since it works on all the new models too.
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      11-30-2020, 04:22 AM   #11
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An update - engine fault message is coming every day. So decided to swap solenoids just to be 100 % sure.
After swap OBD2 shown:
P0025 - "B" CAMSHAFT position- timing over-retarded (Bank 2)
Definetly faulty solenoid, ordered new one today, will be here in couple days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
If you do change it, don't forget to run the intercooler bleeding procedure after. Don't have it in front of me but if you search the web you will find it.
You mean this one ?

"Do not open the coolant expansion tank sealing cap during the bleeding procedure.

Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt the bleeding procedure.

Connect battery charger.
Switch the ignition on.
Switch on low-beam headlight.
Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
Then adjust filling level in coolant expansion tank to maximum.
Check cooling system for leaks.
If the cooling system bleeding has to be performed again, deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3."

We tried this exactly step by step, but with no luck....
Electrical coolant pump was never activated - at least we couldn't hear it. I'm sure my auxiliary water pump is working, because i can hear it after shuting off hot engine. Maybe we did something wrong in these steps ....
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      11-30-2020, 06:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovakE70 View Post
An update - engine fault message is coming every day. So decided to swap solenoids just to be 100 % sure.
After swap OBD2 shown:
P0025 - "B" CAMSHAFT position- timing over-retarded (Bank 2)
Definetly faulty solenoid, ordered new one today, will be here in couple days.



You mean this one ?

"Do not open the coolant expansion tank sealing cap during the bleeding procedure.

Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt the bleeding procedure.

Connect battery charger.
Switch the ignition on.
Switch on low-beam headlight.
Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
Then adjust filling level in coolant expansion tank to maximum.
Check cooling system for leaks.
If the cooling system bleeding has to be performed again, deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3."

We tried this exactly step by step, but with no luck....
Electrical coolant pump was never activated - at least we couldn't hear it. I'm sure my auxiliary water pump is working, because i can hear it after shuting off hot engine. Maybe we did something wrong in these steps ....
Close but below is what I followed. Did you hook up a charger? It may not start of voltage is too low. Also the pump is quite but you can hear it if you listen very closely (pump is on passenger side very low next to radiator)and see the fluid moving In the intercooler reservoir. You have to watch the fluid like a hawk as it will go down during the procedure.

Connect a battery charger to the battery or jumper cable ports under the hood.
Turn ignition to the ON position.
If equipped with a START button, push button twice (with key fob installed or active), but do not depress the brake or clutch pedals.* This will turn the ignition on, but not crank the starter.
Set heater temp to MAX and blower to low speed.
Press the accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds.
The self bleeding procedure will begin
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      11-30-2020, 07:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Close but below is what I followed. Did you hook up a charger? It may not start of voltage is too low. Also the pump is quite but you can hear it if you listen very closely (pump is on passenger side very low next to radiator)and see the fluid moving In the intercooler reservoir. You have to watch the fluid like a hawk as it will go down during the procedure.

Connect a battery charger to the battery or jumper cable ports under the hood.
Turn ignition to the ON position.
If equipped with a START button, push button twice (with key fob installed or active), but do not depress the brake or clutch pedals.* This will turn the ignition on, but not crank the starter.
Set heater temp to MAX and blower to low speed.
Press the accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds.
The self bleeding procedure will begin
Thanks again.
Yes charger was connected via ports under the hood.
Maybe it was running but very quietly and we couldn't hear it.
Will definitely try again after we replace solenoid.

I wonder if bleeding procedure has to be done afterall ? As i said we didnt do it and it seems everything is fine. After solenoid swap i toped up intercooler coolant tank (as it was little low) and checked again after longer drive.
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      06-25-2022, 07:16 PM   #14
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Engine Light Yellow N63 E70

Check engine light came on shortly after I climbed steep dirt mountain road for about 10miles. When I turned engine off and started back up, engine light turned off. Then a few miles down the road came back on nice I got on throttle. Seems like there's no turbo power. BMW service was closed so went to advance auto parts to pull code. At this time the light was back off and was unable to read a code. I reset the codes anyhow to see if that would change anything. Nothing… still running with less power and no error light on to say anything is wrong?… anyone else experience similar issue with their n63 x50i?
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      06-26-2022, 03:14 AM   #15
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yours sounds very familiar to the TheCastle experience

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1879290

He had a lot of troubleshooting around turbocharger, but all turned OK. But the problem was still there.

Below one of my speculation on his case; in case obvious checks will turn ok.

Hi,
I know this is more rhetorical now, but I bumped this information in the N63 engine description.

HPI Limp-home mode
If a fault is diagnosed in the system, such as e.g. failure of the rail pressure sensor, the volume control valve of HPFP is de-energized (of the high pressure fuel pump) ; the fuel then flows via a so-called bypass into the rail.
In the event of HPI limp-home mode, turbocharging is deactivated by an opening of the wastegate valves.
Causes of HPI limp-home mode may be:
• Implausible rail pressure sensor values
• Failure of volume control valve
• Leakage in high pressure system
• Failure of high pressure fuel pump
• Failure of (fuel) rail pressure sensor

=====================================.
Admit some error codes should have been visible if this condition was really the case, but I think when looking at these things we should be prepared to accept we get hit in one place, but hurts somewhere else
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