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      12-06-2019, 09:40 AM   #133
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Originally Posted by BOHICA230 View Post
Sup, nice ride there. I am new to this X5 M. I recently bought a 2012 with 60k miles. I want to do that Android Screen swap. How did that work for you? Were you able to continue using the steering wheel controls and center knob? In your honest opinion, was it worth the money? Thanks ahead of time. Great looking ride.
Hey, thanks! You should post a pic of your ride...

There is a very long Android Monitor thread you can get tons of opinions, even mine, when I first installed. But I can tell you now, after 2 years, it's worth it from an aesthetic perspective. I'm iOS user, so I don't get the full Android experience. Below is my latest assessment. If experts out there can help with my CONS below, I'd appreciate it...I stopped reading the android thread a while back...

PROS
-I added CARPLAY, which allows me to use WAZE on long trips
-With a few exceptions, I can just use OEM functions with a larger screen
-I was able to finally sync the OEM volume to the Android Monitor volume (so that upon switching volume isn't too low or high)
-While on WAZE I can listen to SiriusXM, however I won't hear the WAZE notifications (for these notifications I can only listen to music via my phone)

CONS
-Sound using Aux Input is a tangible reduction in sound quality. I purchased a pricey aux cable and sound improved a bit to tolerable, but I it bothers me to listen to music knowing I can have better quality sound going through OEM.
-I lose the OEM NAV button. Pressing NAV sends me to the Android Map or if I have CARPLAY connected to the WAZE app. The latter not being a bad option. But you have to use the menu's to get to the OEM NAV map.
-I lose the OEM VOICE button on steering wheel. Pressing the VOICE button on the steering wheel takes me to CARPLAY...which is fine if I'm connected to CARPLAY, otherwise it's a dead end. Why am I not connected to CARPLAY??...
-When on CARPLAY I have not mastered incoming calls. If I'm on CARPLAY, I believe I have to disconnect my phone's BT from OEM BT. OK. But the calls have static and I don't seem to always be clear to the caller on the other end. So I drop off, turn on BT and get back on the very clear sounding OEM phone function.
-Support is non-existent after your first few emails to them.

Despite all the CONS I like the system as a whole and mostly use the OEM functions. If there were another system out there that fixed my CONS and kept the PROS and was under $500, I'd buy it.

Also, if you decide to install, I routed the USB cables down the driver side center console. You can get inside the center console (aux input, etc) from there (have to remove a couple other items, pretty easy). One screw and a couple clips to remove the carpet trim and you have access.
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      12-07-2019, 02:59 PM   #134
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I mentioned this earlier, this procedure will sync the avin and oem volumes so that when you toggle between the two one isn't significantly louder than the other.

1. Phone Bluetooth Off
2. Connect phone to Carplay via usb
3. Toggle between carplay/avin and x5 Radio using oem Media/Radio buttons respectively. Set radio volume and do not change.
4. In Avin Settings/audio, adjust Media Volume and select HOME icon to save. Switch to Radio to Test against Radio volume. Repeat as needed.
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      03-01-2020, 11:13 AM   #135
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Roof rail delete

I finally did the ROOF RAIL DELETE and wanted to thank 9vapors (xbimmers) and adamt (xoutpost) for their help. 9Vapors confirmed the parts needed for the rail delete and admat had a fantastic DIY for adding roof rails to a vehicle that didnít have rails (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...stall-diy.html). As a result, I'll spare you all from a whole new DIY, Iíll just add to this one.

I spent around $250 for the entire job. I took my time, did it over the weekend, and cleaned as I went. Dropping the headliner took me 90min. From there I had to figure out some stuff not in the DIY. I think the 4 hour mark is reasonable IF you had everything you needed on hand, without interruptions, and no surprises.

The following provides additional information to the DIY aboveÖ.

1. Before you disconnect the battery, open the sunroof entirely (per the DIY) and adjust the front seats forward so they clear the b-pillars. You donít need to remove the b-pillars, but midway I wanted to remove them and my seats were in the way.

2. C-Pillars/Rear Seat Bolsters - When removing the rear seat bolsters, I lowered the rear seats and about 6 inches down from the top I inserted my hands on either side of the bolster and pulled out then up. The bolster has a large clip at the top and long tab pointed downward into a slot at the bottom. The very top of the rear seat bolsters flex a lot and it didnít feel like the place to pull the bolster out. If the clip remains on the car, remove it and attach back to the bolster by installing one side of the clip and leveraging the other side into place. Upon install, insert the tab at the bottom first and then pop the bolster clip back into the seat frame.

3. C-Pillars/Airbag cover Ė This seems trivial, but the less prying you do around here the better chance of not scratching up your c-pillar. Using a pry tool to lift the airbag cover from the center edge. It will raise about an 1/8Ē off the c-pillar surface, then squeeze both sides of the cover to easily remove. The screw beneath requires a T25 torx tool.

4. Removing Handles - To reveal the screws you have to pry out these fragile covers with tiny plastic pins on the bottom that break easily. The cover hinges down on these fragile pins. Start by prying from the top of the cover away from the handle gingerly to hinge the cover down. Then pull the cover straight down to remove. Once you see a cover in your hand youíll understand. Also take care because they could shoot out and be easily misplaced. Screws are removed using a T20 torx tool.

5. Lights - The rear reading lights are the hardest. See post #100 in this thread where I describe an easy method to remove. This post also shows how to easily remove the front center light console

6. Headliner - Once all the peripherals are removed, the headliner is held in place with screws and clips. As per the DIY, there are four T10 screws on top of the sunroof that you access from above/outside the vehicle. Next, there are two T25 screws holding the headliner behind the front center light console. Next there are clips around the entire perimeter of the sunroof hole that are easily undone with a plastic pry tool. Lastly there is one big clip at the center rear of the headliner. You access this clip by removing the trunk seal from the headliner. Pry the headliner down and you can see this big white clip in the center. Use a flathead to pry the clip out of the roof. I also detached the four door seals to allow the headliner to drop more easily

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7. Now that the headliner is dropped you are either: A) deleting existing roof rails or B) adding roof rails to a vehicle that doesnít have them. The following describes A.

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SUMMARY, DELETING ROOF RAILS Ė Unfasten roof rails (item 5), unclip moldings (item 3), reuse molding seals and endcaps, seal thru-holes in roof, clip new moldings (Item 4) into place

Each rail assembly consists of the rail with threaded studs (item 5) which is then adhered to a long roof molding (item 3) that has two seals and two end caps. This assembly aligns to a deep channel and three thru-holes in your roof for the threaded studs to pass in order to be fastened with nuts behind the headliner.

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From the DIY you can eventually find the nuts holding the rails. You need to know that the rear-most nuts are behind grommets in the roof. The remainder reside behind the airbag curtains that run above the doors. You will have to carefully move the curtains aside to get your socket extension through the hole in the roof that leads to the nuts. Again, this is why I disconnected the negative battery cable. Access to the middle and front nuts reside behind 1.25Ē holes in the roof, behind the airbag curtains, aligned next to the white nylon brackets used for the handles. In the image below, the bottle roughly shows where the nuts should be found.

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Once you remove the six nuts holding the roof rails the entire assembly remains fastened to the roof with clips and some resistance from the threaded studs catching on the roof sheet metal. Not knowing exactly how these were to be removed, and not wanting to break anything I started by prying up on the rails. It so happened that the adhesive gave way before the clips underneath and the rail separated from the molding.

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Using a pry tool I quickly popped off the molding from the clips below. Once I knew how these were fastened, the other side was just a matter of prying up on the molding to unclip and remove the entire assembly. Be careful not to damage the seals and endcaps on the molding and note you may have to jiggle the rail to clear the studs from catching on the roof sheetmetal.

Thanks to 9vapors I figured out the part numbers needed to purchase the proper moldings (item 4). Per realoem, there are two types of molding for deleting roof rails 1) moldings painted black and 2) moldings primed for painting. Having AWIII, I decided to save some effort and money and just use the black moldings (item 4, 51-13-7-250-397, 51-13-7-250-398). Upon arrival I was disappointed to find that these are not gloss black like the roof rails. Instead itís a satin black and not well finished. I plan to return to BMW to confirm these werenít supposed to be gloss. I figure once I have them ceramic coated it wonít matter too much, theyíre on the roof. To my surprise I realized I needed to reuse the old moldingís seals and end caps. I wasnít able to find these as individual parts, but if someone does, please post and Iíll update. [UPDATE: new molding and endcaps are included when purchased new. Mine happen to be stuck deep down in the box.]

Start with removing the two body-colored endcaps from each molding. On the underside of the molding youíll see how the endcap is clipped. Press down in the circle with torx tool and gently pry out the endcaps. Next there are two seals that run along the length of each sideís molding and mine were in good shape. There is a tiny channel in the molding that holds the seals in place. Do not pull the seals out away from the molding, instead start at one end and pull the seal (in the lengthwise direction) out of the channel. A couple of the seals were sticking somewhere along the length. Donít apply anything slippery to the seals at this point, use your fingers and friction to test the seal every couple inches until you find the area where itís stuck. Then I used some soapy water or Aerospace 303 to unstick. Once itís unstuck, the seal easily slides out the end. DONíT LOOSE THE ORIENTATION OF THE SEAL. Note in what direction the seal enters the molding as you will have to install in the new molding in the same direction to maintain the sealing property in the roof when assembled. Once removed, use Aerospace 303 to clean the seal. I would then immediately install it into the new molding. Repeat for all four seals. Install the endcaps into the new moldings. At this point I had one seal that wasnít captured by the endcaps. The endcaps are supposed to keep the seals from escaping the molding channel. The solution was to gently pry/expand the endcap out to ensure seals catch on the endcaps. Lastly, my old moldings had a rectangular foam piece with adhesive on one side. They were small (1Ē x ľĒ) and I just removed them and located them on the exact same place on the new moldings. Take care not to tear them when removing them from the old moldings.

The other part you need to order are the clips (51-13-7-070-747). These are the clips that the molding will clip to on the roof. These clips are held in place to the roof by attaching to the tiny studs in the roof channel. I only had one clip that was damaged, but I also noticed that the two front-most clips were missing in my roof channel (empty studs). I suspect they were unnecessary with the rail bolted nearby and bmw saved some money on not using one clip across the entire production. But with the new moldings only clipped in place, clips in these locations is necessary. At a $1.xx a piece, buy a handful just in case. Prior to installation of the molding onto these clips, ensure the clips are centered on the studs. The clips are made to allow the installed molding to slide front or back as needed to center the molding on the roof. Also, use some painters tape to mark the location of the clips so upon install you know exactly where to press down.

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Before installing the new moldings, you need to address the thru-holes in the roof channel that were meant to allow the rail stud through to the interior to be fastened in place. I decided these needed to be plugged to avoid any chance of water entering through the roof. I went to autozone and found some standard plastic rivets used on ford body panels that were the correct size for the hole. I filled the bottom of the rivet head with flexseal (got from local grocery store) so that when pressed into place the flex seal mushroomed out. After half an hour, I came back and laid a small strip of Glad PressNíseal over the rivet.

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Ready to attach molding.

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Done.

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      03-02-2020, 12:31 PM   #136
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Excellent post and diy.
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      03-14-2020, 10:31 AM   #137
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Just a quick update, I finally found a set of reverse LED lights that don't throw codes for my specific car. I've been running them since Dec w no issues. Just bought a second set as backup if I ever need. I'm running the 6000k Crystal White from PrecisionLED, #BMWX5LEDRVE70, $29.99 plus tax.

FWIW - They are having a sale right now with promo code SHAMROCK18 that got me a $5.40 discount.

[UPDATE 3July2020: While my car sits idling I've noticed my reverse LEDs flickering intermittently. For those of you who have iCarly or some equivalent, you can deactivate reverse light monitoring to disable flickering of LED lights; You can also deactivate the following lights: Brake Lights, Inner Brake Lights, Third Brake Lights, Tail Lights, License Plate, Fog Lights, Reverse Fog Lights, Low Beams, High Beams, turn signals, side markers, and angel eyes.]
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      03-15-2020, 09:58 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Just a quick update, I finally found a set of reverse LED lights that don't throw codes for my specific car. I've been running them since Dec w no issues. Just bought a second set as backup if I ever need. I'm running the 6000k Crystal White from PrecisionLED, #BMWX5LEDRVE70, $29.99 plus tax.

FWIW - They are having a sale right now with promo code SHAMROCK18 that got me a $5.40 discount.

Sorry, no pix at the moment, will get some soon.
That's great! Going to order a set tomorrow. Thanks for the post.
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      04-05-2020, 12:24 PM   #139
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Windshield Repair DIY - Scratch Removal

I've been catching up on several things with time at home. The PO apparently actuated the wipers without a refill in the driver's side causing some long scratches across the driver's side. They are exactly at eye level for me when I drive and I finally put in the time to remove them.

DISCLAIMER
This DIY, as written below, worked to remove scratches from my specific vehicle and oem windshield. Caution: Incorrect application of materials could result in a damaged windshield. Eastwood glass polishing kit instructions can be found in the link below and take precedence over this DIY. (https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/12525Q_inst.pdf)

SCOPE
Remove long arching scratches, caused by empty wiper arm, from 2013 BMW X5M. Multiple fine line scratches that made a swath 1.5” wide (various depths) from wiper arm stowed position to driver’s side a-pillar. These could be lightly felt with your fingernail, but easily visible from driver seat at eye level.

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MATERIALS
-Eastwood Pro Glass Polishing Kit with Diamond Fast Powder and 3” Felt Polishing Buff
-Clean Plastic Cup
-Wooden mixer stick
-Distilled Water (or tap water)
-Painter's tape
-Painter's Tarp, 8’x10’
-Porter Cable Dual Action Buffer (or equivalent) with 3” Hook and Loop pad
-Spray Bottle for distilled water
-Eye Protection
-Respirator Mask
-Gloves

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PREPARATION
-Eastwood instructions allow for use of a pneumatic electric tool that allows rpm of 600-1500. Using a drill with chuck falls into this category, however in many you cannot control rpm outside of HI/LO or trigger response. I decided to use my dual action porter cable buffer with adjustable speed. Using this tool (as opposed to drill or orbital) extends the length of time needed to remove scratches but mitigates damaging the windshield with excessive heat.

-Clean windshield area of interest

-Tape and/or cover painted areas

-Use tarp to cover and protect hood of vehicle; I used a towel for the roof.

-Lift the needed wipers off the windshield if necessary.

-Outline the affected area to work with a crayon or painters tape.

-Using glasses, mask, gloves, and a clean container, mix powder with a small bit of water to create a thick paste consistency. Work well to ensure powder is thoroughly mixed with no lumps. Not much water is needed and I unwittingly made an excessive amount despite only needing a quarter or half-dollar size amount. Ensure container is clean to avoid adding scratches to glass.

-From Eastwood: NOTE: It is extremely important to maintain cleanliness throughout the entire process as any foreign material can quickly cause scratches on the glass.

-Soak Felt Polishing Buff in ľ” of water for a few minutes prior to starting to polish.

POLISHING
NOTE: For those not familiar with polishing, the primary factors affecting the removal of scratches in this process are some combination of 1) Buffer Speed, 2) Hand Pressure, 3) Heat Buildup (surface dryness vs pass speed), and 4) polishing buff grit. However, the polishing buff grit is constant in this process b/c it is provided by Eastwood.

Set the DA Buffer to a speed setting of 2.75. I started with 1.5 and slowly figured out I could go as high as 2.75 with no issues. I was tempted to go higher, however by the time I got to 2.75 I felt comfortable with the process and decided not to change.

Spray the area with a mist of water

Depending on the size of the work area, apply a dab of paste on the windshield. For my application, I placed a dab the size of a polo button or used smaller dabs in various locations. A little bit goes a long way.

This is where it gets subjective, but I’m sharing FWIW. In my situation it worked better to do an 8” section at a time. [I started out by doing the entire 36” of travel, but this took too much time and effort with little results.] I applied a consistent amount of hand pressure for each pass. You want to watch the glass just behind the pad (opposite side from direction of travel) b/c it will indicate heat buildup. In other words, if during your pass the pad is moving to the right, you want to watch the glass on the left side of the pad. If the moisture on the glass begins to evaporate as you pass, then this is an indication that heat is building up. You will see the surface go from a moist haze to clear real-time as you pass. Getting to this condition may take several passes and is dependent on the speed of your pass and the hand pressure you provide. When I saw this occur, I would get to the end of the pass and immediately return back over the area with the same speed and pressure. I went over the dry area with a pass at least once, sometimes twice (if I saw moisture on the leading edge of the pad as I passed). CAUTION: IF you continue to pass over the dry area you will remove more but you also increase the chance of marring the glass by introducing too much heat. I then stopped and sprayed a mist of water on the area. REPEAT, adding additional paste as needed.

FINAL THOUGHTS
-Wash your car afterwards, or at least the front of your car.

-This process worked very well for me w/o any marring or damage to the glass. The time it takes will depend on your work area and how you apply the factors above. My application involved a lot of trial and error to determine the final process above. I spent 2.5 hours on 2 separate days to do the entire scratched swath. However, the last 90m of my second day I had the most removal using the process above and applying a little firmer pressure in areas that were more deeply scratched.

-I was happy to clear about 99% of the scratches with just one scratch too deep to remove without investing more time. I figured it wasn’t worth the risk and was happy with the results.

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-When the windshield is dry, there is no visible indication that one specific area was polished. When you wet the windshield you may be able to see the patch that was worked, like being able to see the area on the windshield where the wiper passes repeatedly.

-I decided to do a light polish to the entire windshield. I spent maybe 10m on each half of the windshield polishing with a faster pass speed than before and the glass appeared very clean afterwards.

Good Luck!
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      04-28-2020, 07:18 AM   #140
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Clean X5M! I was really debating getting one of these, but ended up with what I know again (35d). End of the day, we needed to possibly tow and as capable as the X5M would be at doing that, the gas would be absurd!
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      04-28-2020, 08:18 AM   #141
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I guess fine scratches on the windshield can be minimized by replacing the wipers often...

Last edited by quick; 04-28-2020 at 08:26 AM..
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      04-29-2020, 07:28 PM   #142
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Thanks guys. Well, gas guzzling isn't a problem at the moment and I can thank the previous owner for windshield scratches.

Coming soon...upgrading my AVIN to a Snapdragon Qualcomm Android 10 screen (w/LG Display, Built-in Wireless Carplay, etc.) and Interior trim refreshment.

New monitor ordered, will be selling minty AVIN (w/carplay) soon for $300 obo.
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      04-30-2020, 04:31 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Thanks guys. Well, gas guzzling isn't a problem at the moment and I can thank the previous owner for windshield scratches.

Coming soon...upgrading my AVIN to a Snapdragon Qualcomm Android 10 screen (w/LG Display, Built-in Wireless Carplay, etc.) and Interior trim refreshment.

New monitor ordered, will be selling minty AVIN (w/carplay) soon for $300 obo.
Can you please post a link for the new screen, would love to get one. Thanks
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      04-30-2020, 10:47 AM   #144
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4x4 Android Monitor Questions/Answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Can you please post a link for the new screen, would love to get one. Thanks
It's the 4x4 Shop one...they have been very responsive with all my questions, unlike AVIN. Once you order and create an account you'll have access to spec sheets and DIY videos.

2010-2013: https://4x4shop.ca/product/2010-2013...al-cic-system/


1. Snapdragon, do I understand correctly that the monitor itself has 4G and I can access the internet, etc. independent of my phone? Do I pay a monthly service fee? ==>Monthly service required IF I choose to use the LTE option. It's not required to use the LTE option, I can just use my phone's hotspot.

2. Built-in Carplay, does it require that I plug my phone in or is it wireless? ==> Carplay is wireless on the Snapdragon model (the PX6 I have to plug in to a dongle)

3. Does the audio go through OEM mic/speakers or does it use it's own speaker/mic? If the former, does it go through the OEM Aux Input? ==> Yes, goes through OEM Aux Input, however see SOUND QUALITY below. Need to keep OEM aux input internals clean or else static (IE dust can cause noise). Also, hiss and other sound issues can be controlled via reducing aux input volume...but need to sync between idrive and android volumes.

4. Does the monitor have bluetooth? Are there any issues if I'm connected to the car's BT and the monitor BT? ==> Monitor has BT, but can only use monitor or OEM BT at a time, not both.

5. Am I able to sync volume between OEM and Monitor? So that when I switch from one to the other, there's not a significant sound difference. ==>Yes.

6. I have a GPS splitter for my AVIN install, do I need to purchase your GPS splitter to complete install? ==>All GPS splitters are the same.

7. Is the rear view camera you sell a direct replacement for OEM...IE: fits in the same location? No issues displaying on OEM side? ==> Rear Camera is a handle with lense, not a direct camera replacement. If installed, can view both OEM and 4x4 rear camera via Monitor by switching to preferred view.

8. What is the volume output voltage of the monitor (internal DAC)? ==> In work...

9. Sound Quality - Explained in detail in this build thread, Post #210/211.

10. Selected Options:
-(2010-2013) BMW X5 E70 Replacement 10.25” Screen
Android/GPS/WIFI/BT/A2DP/USB Multimedia for Original CIC System

-Snapdragon Qualcomm Android 10 – 4G/LTE capability
Snapdragon 625 (MSM8953)n Version Android 10 – 8 core, A53, CPU 2.0GHz, 14nmLPPn-GPU: Adreno 5-6, Support 4K HD H.264 (AVC)30FPSn-CPU: build-in Hexagon 546 DPSn- Use X9 LTE modem, support all kinds o networks (4G): LTE Category 7/13 – Support double frequency: 2.4G and 5G WIFI.n-SD Card: SD3.0, max 128GBn- Video format: MP4, AVI, MKV, WMV, MOV, FLV n- Audio Format: MP3, WMA, AAC, FLAC, APE, WAV

-North America and Argentina
-Left Hand Drive
-1920 x 720 (LG Display) Screen Resolution
-LG HD Anti-Reflection Black Screen
-Build-in Wireless Apple CarPlay / Wired Android Auto Function
-Digital TV Tuner (ATSC, North America)

No Addition of internal HDMI output (last minute, after purchase, trying to add...)

No Addition of backup camera
No addition of GPS Splitter
No addition of OEM Fit Dash Cam
No addition of Aux splitter
No addition of WIFI OBD2 adapter for Torque app
No addition of DAB+ USB Hub
No Addition USB extension
No addition of Tool Kit
No addition of One Year Live Tech Support ($59.99), email Technical Support included free.


[UPDATE 13APR2021: I cannot recommend wireless CarPlay because audio skips and several of us have not been able to solve it. My phone is an XR.]
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      04-30-2020, 12:27 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Can you please post a link for the new screen, would love to get one. Thanks
It's the 4x4 Shop one...they have been very responsive with all my questions, unlike AVIN.

2010-2013: https://4x4shop.ca/product/2010-2013...al-cic-system/


1. Snapdragon, do I understand correctly that the monitor itself has 4G and I can access the internet, etc. independent of my phone? Do I pay a monthly service fee? ==>Monthly service required IF I choose to use the LTE option. It's not required to use the LTE option, I can just use my phone's hotspot.

2. Built-in Carplay, does it require that I plug my phone in or is it wireless? ==> Carplay is wireless on the Snapdragon model (the PX6 I have to plug in to a dongle)

3. Does the audio go through OEM mic/speakers or does it use it's own speaker/mic? If the former, does it go through the OEM Aux Input? ==> Yes, goes through OEM Aux Input, however see SOUND QUALITY below. Need to keep OEM aux input internals clean or else static (IE dust can cause noise). Also, hiss and other sound issues can be controlled via reducing aux input volume...but need to sync between idrive and android volumes.

4. Does the monitor have bluetooth? Are there any issues if I'm connected to the car's BT and the monitor BT? ==> Monitor has BT, but can only use monitor or OEM BT at a time, not both.

5. Am I able to sync volume between OEM and Monitor? So that when I switch from one to the other, there's not a significant sound difference. ==>Yes.

6. I have a GPS splitter for my AVIN install, do I need to purchase your GPS splitter to complete install? ==>All GPS splitters are the same.

7. Is the rear view camera you sell a direct replacement for OEM...IE: fits in the same location? No issues displaying on OEM side? ==> Rear Camera is a handle with lense, not a direct camera replacement. If installed, can view both OEM and 4x4 rear camera via Monitor by switching to preferred view.

8. What is the volume output voltage of the monitor (internal DAC)? ==> In work...

9. Sound Quality - Thanks to Sunny_J for this thread on sound quality (below). I plan to confirm his setup so I've been researching this topic with observations below. This section not complete...

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...ight=dragonfly

==>Sunny_J connected a DAC to the USB cable of the monitor and then connected DAC to OEM Aux Input [Connection IE: Monitor USB>USB/DAC/AUX Out>OEM AUX In]. According to his thread, the monitor recognizes the DAC and outputs signal through the DAC.

==>The audio signal from the monitor's Aux Output cable is analog and thus has already been converted by the internal DAC.

==>The monitor's USB cable outputs digital signal when a DAC is recognized, thus adding a third party DAC will convert the signal to analog. Sound quality generally follows: HDMI>Optical>RCA>Aux.

==>External DAC, farther from monitor's electronics, reduces audio interference when converting digital to analog. The monitor's internal DAC converts to analog with interference and sends through monitor's Aux Output.

==>I realized after the fact that had I ordered the HDMI Output option I could have tried using the HDMI signal.

==>My planned setup is to use the Monitor USB > AudioQuest Jitterbug (noise filter) > Dragonfly Red > Big Sur Aux Cable > OEM Aux Input. Hopefully this will provide good quality sound and according to Sunny_J's thread above the DAC is a great improvement.

10. Selected Options:
-(2010-2013) BMW X5 E70 Replacement 10.25" Screen
Android/GPS/WIFI/BT/A2DP/USB Multimedia for Original CIC System

-Snapdragon Qualcomm Android 10 – 4G/LTE capability
Snapdragon 625 (MSM8953)n Version Android 10 – 8 core, A53, CPU 2.0GHz, 14nmLPPn-GPU: Adreno 5-6, Support 4K HD H.264 (AVC)30FPSn-CPU: build-in Hexagon 546 DPSn- Use X9 LTE modem, support all kinds o networks (4G): LTE Category 7/13 – Support double frequency: 2.4G and 5G WIFI.n-SD Card: SD3.0, max 128GBn- Video format: MP4, AVI, MKV, WMV, MOV, FLV n- Audio Format: MP3, WMA, AAC, FLAC, APE, WAV

-North America and Argentina
-Left Hand Drive
-1920 x 720 (LG Display) Screen Resolution
-LG HD Anti-Reflection Black Screen
-Build-in Wireless Apple CarPlay / Wired Android Auto Function
-Digital TV Tuner (ATSC, North America)

No Addition of internal HDMI output (last minute, after purchase, trying to add...)

No Addition of backup camera
No addition of GPS Splitter
No addition of OEM Fit Dash Cam
No addition of Aux splitter
No addition of WIFI OBD2 adapter for Torque app
No addition of DAB+ USB Hub
No Addition USB extension
No addition of Tool Kit
No addition of One Year Live Tech Support ($59.99)


More to come...
That's excellent! Thank you my friend.
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      05-15-2020, 09:37 AM   #146
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Teaser pic...

Just a quick teaser pick of what I've been working on...BMW purists shield your eyes...

This is my third E70 since 2007, AW and Black each time, I just want something different for a while. Obviously not finished, maybe in a few weeks. Pretty tedious to get it just right plus been working other fun stuff like exterior mirrors, complete leather conditioning, deep carpet clean, ceramic coating the black trim, flat aluminum wrapped trim, and new android monitor on the way, etc. I ran down the rabbit hole of ceramic knobs, but no joy..gloss black doesn't look bad, imo.

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      05-20-2020, 10:27 PM   #147
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Copied from my post in the General X5 E70 forum:

Thanks to Sophisticated Redneck for the lead on heat wrap. I had some left over so just kept wrapping, lol. I still need to get under the heatshield..will do soon.

I bought from Amazon bc it was a little bit cheaper than DEI's website. I ordered Qty.2 p/n 010405, 0.5"-1.25" by 3' long. I also ordered Qty.2 p/n 010457, 0.75" by 3' long.

The pic I posted represents using qty one each of the above. I had 4" left over of one, don't recall which. Note that the stitching is weaker than I expected, don't pull on it too much or it may unravel a little bit.

I ordered this bc it was easy to install and you can cut to length. I bought cool tape 010408 thinking I may need it for the edges after cutting, but I did not need it. It went on solidly. Also, I measured with a rope before cutting, but you should expect to cut an extra 1/2" for every bend in the hose...my guess and ref only.

NOTE! Watch your idle your first start after installation. My idle was running a couple hundred rpm high and I guess I was rough with crankcase connecting line (top center). It wasn't completely disconnected, but when I checked the connections I felt a slight snap on one side, all good again.

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      05-26-2020, 09:57 PM   #148
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4x4 Android Monitor SOUND QUALITY

UPDATE 7Mar2021: I am reworking this section on Sound Quality and will re-post in the thread with all new information.
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Last edited by argento; 03-07-2021 at 01:21 PM.. Reason: Information outdated...
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      05-27-2020, 09:36 PM   #149
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4x4 Android Monitor INSTALLATION NOTES

REFERENCE POST #144 ABOVE for my exact Android Monitor Model and Purchase Options, as well as pre-purchase Q&A from the Vendor:

Some things to consider when installing the Android Monitor:

1. Prior to disconnecting the battery, move the passenger seat (or seat you plan to use for install) to a far forward comfortable position to keep you from having to lean forward as much. Also open glovebox. You may want to take this time to make sure you AUX IN is working correctly, so if it's not after install you have a data point.

2. The Android monitor needs GPS and the factory radio needs GPS (if vehicle equipped with factory NAV). IF your vehicle has the factory navigation option you can use the GPS splitter to split the radio GPS to the monitor **OR** leave GPS to the radio and install the provided GPS module (LVSD connection on back of monitor) somewhere in your dash near the windshield. If you don't have factory navigation, then you must install the provided GPS module.

3. If vehicle does not have middle dash speaker, then the two speaker wires in the provided Android harness are not used.

4. Install Harness - Camera +12V, Rear Camera RCA’s not used in installation if vehicle already equipped with backup camera.

5. On the back of the Android Monitor, plug in two smaller connectors first (if applicable to your application), b/c difficult to install if larger connector first installed

6. [UPDATED] I don’t believe you can connect the Android monitor and get sound output through the oem audio harness alone. You will need to use the OEM AUX IN as described by the manufacturer of the android monitor. You need at least a 4ft Aux Cable (very minimum). Use a high quality aux in cable for best sound results. I went with AudioQuest, FWIW.

7. If, after all connections are made, no OEM display can be seen then cycle through all CAR TYPES first to see if one works. I cycled through 9 and the ninth one worked for me. If still no display, disassemble monitor and check all monitor connectors. I use Car Type: [09]CIC_F01/F02_7Series(2011)(8.8", 10.25")

8. If you plan to use the Monitor's USBs, you'll likely need an 1m usb extension cable.

9. I created wiring diagrams in Visio showing oem wiring versus android wiring. PM me if you want me to email you a PDF.

10. Just a reminder that the flat black connector that connects into the OEM display is unused in the Android Monitor; tuck it away.

11. If you find the Android and OEM Monitors blank with no power and you CIC (radio) is also out, check fuse 142 (20A) in the trunk.

12. [UPDATED JAN.2021] AUTO DIMMING OPERATIONS:

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 100%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are same brightness
-Dimmer switch does nothing
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 0%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are same low dim output
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Android Brightness Setting 100%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are bright, I turn on lights, both oem and android screens switch to a random dimmed setting
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

Key In, Start ON, Engine OFF, Lights Off, Android Brightness Setting 0%
-Both Android and OEM Screens are dim, I turn on lights, NO switch to a random dim setting (guessing it's at the lowest already)
-Dimmer switch does nothing.
-OEM>Settings>Control Display>Screen Brightness does nothing

The LIGHTS ON auto dim setting is dependent on the Android brightness setting, with 0% the lowest setting in the system. Another option, if more adjustment is needed, is try the CF Lumens app or equivalent. It adjusts screen brightness automatically to time of day and it may have more adjustment options to fit the needs. NOTE: As I learned from Nyc Dito The Dimmer Switch and Control Display Screen Brightness settings don't work because the dimming wire remains with the OEM NAV connector that we tuck away once the Android Monitor is installed.

13. [UPDATE 29MAR2021] I recommend immediately after install, take pictures of the settings in FACTORY menus. Then make your changes and do it again. I can't tell you how many times I wanted to know what the original settings were for a particular menu without returning all settings to DEFAULT.

14. A DAC can be used with this system by plugging it into the Android monitor USB cable. Then I recommend purchasing the UAPP player app. The default android audio player equalizer doesn’t work for me when using the DAC. The UAPP equalizer and gain settings are a tremendous help in sound quality and sound equalization between oem and android sides. I summarized my oem and UAPP settings in post #211. Doing this requires extra effort to setup just right and understand the quirks, however when playing your lossless music files you get exceptional sound. If not playing lossless music files, then you probably don’t need to use the DAC. Also not just any DAC works properly, see my post #210 for the extensive trial and error on DACs.

15. Avoid wireless carplay, get the dongle. Several experience skipping with wireless carplay.

16. When in OEM mode listening to audio and then switch to Android mode, the OEM mode continues to play until you make a selection on the Android side that requires sound. This way I was able to listen to OEM satellite radio and view the Waze map. However, you won’t hear the Waze audio until you make an effort to change the audio focus to the Android side.

17. Questions to 4x4 Shop; Thanks to Ray for a response within the hour...

Q: The Android keeps going back to 24hour time, even after setting it to 12 hour in multiple locations.
A: You can go to setting-time-if you select original time will stay with 24 hours, if you select sync to GPS signal, you can do 12 hours format.

Q: The BACK button on the iDrive does not reboot the system per the instructions
A: The back button won’t reboot the system, mistake on the information.

Q: WIFI doesn’t automatically connect, even with settings set to do so;
A: You need to turn off the hotspot from your phone and turn it back on, time out on the hotspot from your phone.

Q: Do you have any insight why some E70 X5 installs don’t need the AUX OUT to OEM AUX IN connection to hear sound?
A: For E70, always need to run the aux cable from the power harness from android to your factory AUX jack.

Q: Is it possible to add the Developer menu option in SETTINGS>SYSTEM>ADVANCED>DEVELOPER OPTIONS>FEATURE FLAGS>settings_seamless transfer? I would like to switch between audio sources: AUX OUT and USB Audio OUT. I successfully am using USB Audio Out to a DAC and coupled with a specific player app (UAPP).
A: You can activate the developer mode, but we don’t recommend customer to do any modification on that.

Q: Does 4x4 Shop offer a front camera setup compatible with my interior Rear View Mirror setup that has high-beam assistant and rain sensor? [I had to send pix of my cover (51-16-9-216-739)].
A: NO.

Q: How do I connect the TV Tuner?
A: You should have one harness with 4-5 RCA jack on it, that is the one for video and audio input, you can use it for your TV tuner. You can get the power for the tv tuner from your factory cigarette lighter adapter.

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Plenty more info in this thread regarding other users installation and issues: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...highlight=avin

Good luck. Post more if you have them.
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Last edited by argento; 08-25-2021 at 09:42 AM.. Reason: More information...
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      05-28-2020, 12:39 AM   #150
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Do you have the part number for the ceramic idrive knob?
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      05-28-2020, 12:42 AM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Do you have the part number for the ceramic idrive knob?
There are many. There isn't one for our cars. I bought one and disassembled hoping I could make it work, not close. Amazed at how similar they look, but minor differences make it completely incompatible. I'll probably offer mine up for parts in the F10 forum

What you see in my image above is 3M film in gloss black. More pix of that soon. I've been wrapping a lot for the past month. By that I mean, a few parts repeatedly for practice to get them wrinkle free.
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      05-28-2020, 12:49 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argento View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Do you have the part number for the ceramic idrive knob?
There are many. There isn't one for our cars. I bought one and disassembled hoping I could make it work, not close. Amazed at how similar they look, but minor differences make it completely incompatible. I'll probably offer mine up for parts in the F10 forum

What you see in my image above is 3M film in gloss black. More pix of that soon. I've been wrapping a lot for the past month. By that I mean, a few parts repeatedly for practice to get them wrinkle free.
Ah ok gotcha. I thought you found one that works. Thanks
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      06-05-2020, 10:10 AM   #153
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Continuing down my blackout path...

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Modified for Android Monitor Aux and USB Cables under Center Console Armrest
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4 pieces of Gloss Black...
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      06-14-2020, 04:49 PM   #154
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Hey decided to check out your build thread after seeing the link in your signature. My heart sank when I saw the accident photos and so glad to hear and see everything is going well with both you and the M! What a roller coaster!

Your M looks amazing!

Couple questions. I live in Austin and decided to keep my front plate on. Have you ever been pulled over for not having one in the front? Second question - I saw that you swapped out your aluminum trim for carbon leather, but you are now wrapping the trim with gloss black? I've got wood trim and was contemplating wrapping it, but if either of your non-wood trim is for sale I would consider that instead of wrapping. Thanks and let me know! Keep up the awesome work!
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