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05-29-2020, 03:38 PM | #133 |
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thats not bad at all, can you send me his contact info or shop name?
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06-02-2020, 11:04 PM | #135 | |
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His Instagram is @gmi_autodynamics Jared is his name ! Last edited by mr____p; 07-10-2020 at 02:10 AM.. |
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06-03-2020, 06:34 AM | #136 | |
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It will be interesting but if they are like mine where (it was burning a quart every 1200 miles or so) then they honestly wont look bad at all. In-fact I was worried that the new ones were made right as the old ones still seemed to grip the valve stems just as tight as the new ones, just a very slight difference between the new and old. That slight difference is what does it though, Mine was down only 1/4 of a quart after 5000 miles after I did the seals. Normally it would have blown through 4 quarts. Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 06-03-2020 at 07:02 AM.. |
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06-04-2020, 09:58 AM | #137 |
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06-05-2020, 11:30 PM | #139 |
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Pulling the trigger
I spent days, if not weeks trying to pull the trigger on the rebuild. I didn't want to risk spending 40 + hours (5-6k job) of labor on the valve seals for the piston rings to go next.
I also didn't want to do the labor myself either because each valve stem seal takes about 15-30 min to change and there is 32 of them. I know one tech on YouTube T3cklyfe that could do them way faster with amazon tools instead of the AGA tools to do valve stems. You'd be incrediblly stupid to do the valve stems seals with the motor inside the car. There is a centimeter of room to play with along the frame and some of the fuel lines and valve guide tools. Pulling the motor is 90 % the better option. At that point if you are spending that much I said why not and do the rebuild. Not even worth it to just do the valve seals at this mileage. A new s63 motor from factory is about $11-20k. You can use a n63 however in an x5m (X5 motor) just would need the x5m exhaust manifold and turbos since they are twin scroll. I believe the exhaust cam shaft allows for more lift in the s63 compared to the n63 as well. But everything is else is basically the same. Literally even the rods I believe. I believe the compression as well. N63 brand new from factory is about $4-6k + labor $3-4K so I just decided to get my s63 rebuilt. |
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06-05-2020, 11:32 PM | #140 |
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I've heard some of them going out way earlier as far as 60k miles needing new valve stem seals . The n63 is notorious for it and there is a class action law suit for it. The x5m motor, being nearly the same, isnt covered.
The number one issue is oil change intervals. 5w30 doesn't have enough film pressure to cover the rod bearings under its driving style. If you drive it like a Camry then yes use 5w30. But 9/10 5w40 is the Better option to protect the rod bearings. Changing oil every 3-4K is solid choice as well. The s63 issue is heat. The design is relative for it, being that the exhaust manifold and turbos sit on top of the motor. This designs was something bmw engineers couldn't manage to figure out, was a seal particularly. The heat adds excessive stress to hoses, plastics, gaskets and seals over time. Especially with stock cats behind the turbos heat sinking the firewall. The solution when having the opportunity is using high temp silicone vaccum lines, running down pipes either catless or high flow, using a 90C Thermo stat for reduced compenent stress from heat, oil catch cans, running 93 octane + helps keep the car cooler as well. It's a way to resolve the errors the n63/ s63 was born with. |
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06-11-2020, 02:43 PM | #141 | |
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06-11-2020, 03:11 PM | #142 |
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I sure did, works freaking amazing, its incredible what these catch as they are not only baffled but also incorporate Bronze Microfilters that catch oil droplets that would normally bypass the baffling. I added an adjustable one-way valve too to serve two purposes: (block boost pressure from the crankcase and to set the crankcase vacuum and this allowed me to eliminate nearly all of the original CCV tubing wit the internal plastic check-valves. You can do this on any N63 or S63. The S63 has some extra goofy CCV tubes that cross from bank to bank that will also be completely eliminated as a bonus. I used -AN fittings and braided line to make it as strong as possible.
If you are serious about doing it, let me know and I will take the time to work up a parts list for you. Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 06-11-2020 at 03:21 PM.. |
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06-11-2020, 03:30 PM | #143 |
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If you write up a parts list for that setup would be great, I held on to my old CCV lines when I changed them in 2018, just to do something like that with the bits.
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06-11-2020, 11:28 PM | #144 | |
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Can you write up a parts list? |
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06-12-2020, 02:22 PM | #145 | |
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06-13-2020, 11:40 AM | #146 |
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06-17-2020, 04:00 PM | #147 |
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Just wanted to give an update on the build.
Everything is back to normal and looking beautiful. So king bearings, oem rings, oem valve seals, light valve grind, light ball hone on the block. Every gasket and seal replaced , with plugs and water pump. 90c thermostat. New high temp silicone hoses, belts. Counting down the days until it's complete and tuned 🙏 Ps. Got the front bumper sandblasted while it was off & the power steering rack completely rebuilt since it was leaking. |
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06-18-2020, 01:48 PM | #149 | |
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06-24-2020, 04:51 PM | #153 |
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