argento's alpine white X5M

[JDAURIA]

Yeah just doesn't make sense to get an X5M (at least right now) since I need it for towing and the M would be absolutely atrocious in terms of gas if I were to tow with it LOL.

[argento]

In an effort to clean up my original install from above, I'm sharing additional details on this fix. I watched the video posted by ryansbmw from CKwraps as I always learn something from his videos. Because I didn't wrap my front left headlight I had barely enough to rewrap a tailgate light and the right side taillight. In fact I don't recommend using barely enough, it's already difficult enough, it's nice to have ample excess to pull and maneuver the film. ryansbmw advice helped a lot and I was able to avoid adding tension to the edges. I'll add that when you squeegee, hold the edge of the film lightly so as you squeegee the film to the surface you are laying down film from the edge in your hand AS OPPOSED TO stretching the film at the point of squeegee. Doing the latter will add tension to the film. Adding pix in case folks can glean something that helps.

1. Already taped off and cleaned; Started on inside most light edge and squeeged about 2", then stretched the film across the light. Then I began to squeegee from that edge toward the raised feature in the middle of the light.
2. Pulled it back half way, heated to relax film (I see it as returning it to original condition), then pulled again across the back half of the light.
3. Did most of the internal surface, you can see the outer edges are rough
4. Bottom edge with lots of folds and wrinkles
5. Heated that bottom edge and squeegee
6. Lifting the film edge, heated and pressed the film into the gap between the light and the body
7. Another edge with wrinkles;
8. Heated, squeegee, press into the gap. You can see some diagonal lines that show from this angle. That's where I pulled back and reheated. The edge touching the surface seems to leave this artifact. It didn't happen all the time, maybe it was too much heat or too little.
9. Heat, squeegee into the gap all around, making sure the excess film is loose so when I press the squeegee in the gap I don't pull on the surface film just laid, instead I pull from the excess edges of the film.
10. Closeup of the gap filled
11. Another gap filled closeup
12. Cut and done. Make sure you have a new or very sharp blade to make this part easy.

[ryansbmw]

Looks fantastic! I really need to do this on mine

[boneca]

Originally Posted by argento

In an effort to clean up my original install

great job

[argento]

This is a teaser pic, I'm far from complete. Please don't judge me on the diffuser wrap just yet, it's completely prototype, lol.

I've been toying with wrapping my diffuser versus buying an aftermarket carbon fiber diffuser. With vinyl wrap so cheap, I had to try and see if I could find something I liked...plus it's fun. I've been purchasing different carbon fibers and in the image below I used some Vvivid Black True R Carbon Fiber vinyl wrap on the diffuser. As you can see it's very black and to me, from a distance, it looks like I'm missing a panel (like the wheel well). You can see a rectangular patch of Generic 5D Premium HIGH GLOSS Black Carbon Fiber that I put on for comparison. High gloss is the way to go, the light reflects off the glossy curved body surfaces. The matte tends to hide any curved body surface, imo. Subjective, but I think the color needs to be a dark gray..so I've ordered some Autospeed 5D and some Vvivid High Gloss Carbon Fiber films to try.

I will say wrapping this diffuser looked easier than it really is...it took some trial and error, very frustrating. I finally got it to look as-is by sticking the sheet across the top, stretching it down over the middle section of the diffuser, then working outward. Start at the middle raised fin leaving a smooth air bubble on either side (inherently appears there when you stretch it down over the diffuser). Then once you get the surfaces pretty much complete, come back and heat the sides of the fin and press the film into place. So the lesson here is don't give up, I almost trashed the whole piece two times, but on day three this worked out. It didn't help that it was steaming outside in the mid-90's. The Vivid wrap is awesome, as I've posted before. Any mess ups, I would un-peel, heat, and it's almost new and ready to try again.

The next issue is that the exhaust tips are in the way. For me to do a single wrap I need to remove the rear bumper. Below you can see I cut out the diffuser exhaust cutouts. I then made a template of that inside surface and started to place some 3M Matte Deep Black in there, I started it, but didn't finish. I decided that if I go this route I'll just remove the rear bumper and use one piece.

Another problem, I didn't plan ahead on how I would cut the excess off the diffuser. I had some 3M Knifeless Tape on hand, but never thought I'd get as far as I did and I didn't want to waste it. As you can see, I wasn't very good at cutting the excess with a box cutter.

Lastly, and this is subjective, I feel the rear of my X5 is a wall of white. The black roundel and black emblem help...and the diffuser will definitely help. But I felt it still needed something else. So as you can see I added some 3M Matte Deep Black to the taillights. It was just a test, but I REALLY like the way it looks from all angles. I just did this today and it's overcast. I had to create a template to capture the curve in the taillight. I can't wait to get out in some sun to see how it looks. Our taillights are pretty big, compared to the new models, so I figured taping off some of it wouldn't hurt...plus like everything else it's reversible. Let me know what you think, good/bad, all comments are welcome.

Oh, I wrapped the small bumper trim pieces and just haven't installed them...

AND, I tinted the third brake light...

[ryansbmw]

I think the high gloss carbon fiber will look great. I’m a big fan of the tail lights too. I’d be interested in seeing that in the sun and lit up at night.

Wrapping is kind of addicting huh? Lol.

[flapjack]

This looks great - I know you mentioned you were going to try this over going the new diffuser route. interested to see how the High Gloss Carbon Fiber film works out.

P.S. my diffuser came in last week - shipping was quick and the quality looks good. I'll take some pics and post them once installed.

[argento]

Thanks for the feedback. Gloomy and rainy here because of Beta will get more pix out later. YES, I'm actively looking for stuff to wrap, haha. Watching all the cool wrappings on IMSA races doesn't help...

Can't wait to see the diffuser installed. You should snap some pix of the part itself and post...I've never seen the back of those diffusers and how they install. Would like to see closeup of the color and style of the carbon fiber as well...maybe I can find some matching vinyl...

A couple more pix..I can post more details about the template if anyone wants...I used some paper and a crayon to capture the curve (this was the most fun part), then copied over to some card stock. The strip is 13/16" wide. Notice I aligned the strip with the panel line. Lastly, when placing along the curve, place the film edge just under the surface round so the surface round is easily shown and not the film edge. In other words, viewing the pic below, align the film about a mm to the left of the tailgate light curve.

[argento]

Still messing around with CF vinyl wrap for the rear diffuser...

BASE Film: Vvivid Black True R Carbon Fiber - Black - Very dark

From Left to Right:
Vvivid Black True R Carbon Fiber - Anthracite - Same as base, but lighter
Vvivid Expoxy High Gloss Carbon Fiber - Black - You can't see any CF unless your really close, just looks like glossy film reflecting light. Seen here reflecting the driveway.
Generic 5D Premium HIGH GLOSS Black Carbon Fiber - Better, but also reflecting a lot of light w/ no sign of CF
3M 2080 Black Carbon Fiber (2080-CFS12) - Look close, it's there. Very much like the base film, but I feel it's a bit more reflective (not shown in these pics).


Pix...







UPDATE: I rotated the pieces 90 degrees and there is a difference. Esp in the 3M which has a bit more reflectivity. To be fair to these films, here are some closeups, again very rough install, I just slapped them on....




COMING SOON...
Autospeed 5D Premium HIGH GLOSS Black Carbon Fiber - 10/23 Update: This looks pretty awesome, slapped a small piece on the roof and looks great..at eye level you can see the CF hologram. It's still darker than the real CF you'd find on an OEM roof, so kept looking....

Vvivid ORACAL® 975 Premium Structure Cast Film - 10/23 Update: Carbon Fiber Anthracite or black - Did not order, again another dark/black looking CF...found element-6 instead...

Sott Elemento-6 Carbon Fibre - 10/23 Update: Bingo! Of all the CF vinyl wraps I've seen in person, this is the most realistic. In the sunlight it has a gold tint similar to the OEM CF roofs, replicated CF is spot on. I've not wrapped with it yet, but their video looks straight forward. Working to remove rear bumper and attempt to wrap oem diffuser area. It's more expensive than all the others I've tried, but not crazy more...I bought 40sq ft for about $160ish.

[Prelude93]

Originally Posted by argento

2013 E70 X5M INTERIOR LED DIY INSTALL

NOTES
-THANKS to everyone on this forum who wrote DIYs and provided tips, as well as the NEWTISINFO website. I suggest you search and read as many DIYs as you can. If you find a better way to do something or have additional information, then post and share here.
-THERE are various types of LEDs that work and each with varying costs. I used entirely OEM LEDs, as such, this approach is not the cheapest method of LED light swap. I have no errors. The F85 footwell lights appear overbearing in the photos. These light the footwell area pretty well and do not exactly match the bluish light style of the OEM LED Kit.
-THIS approach swaps in four F85 X5M Footwell LED lights in lieu of the four E70 X5M Footwell lights. Then I used the OEM LED Lighting Kit (10pc) to swap the remainder. It didn’t go exactly as planned, because I was one round LED short and had one flat LED extra. I used door projector kits, purchased used from the classifieds section, in the door locations. I will soon replace the visor lights with the OEM LED Kit.

TOOLS
-THE two tools shown are all that is really needed. I actually used other shaped pry tools, but kept coming back to the BSW tool. The pick was only used for the upper rear lights and the pliers for the visor lights.

Attachment 2011288

INTERIOR OEM LIGHT LOCATIONS & QUANTITIES
Attachment 1992832
OEM Bulb Style, All Locations:
Attachment 1992839
(1) Glovebox Light – in glovebox, Qty.1 bulb, 12V/5W
(2) Front Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(3) Front Ceiling Light (Roof Switch Unit) – front, center console on headliner, with two reading lights and one dome light, Qty.3 bulbs, 12V/5W
(4) Mirror/Visor Lights – on headlinder behind folded visor, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(5) Interior Rear Ceiling Lights – above each rear door on headliner, includes lighting and reading light each side, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W
(6) Luggage/Trunk Hatch Lights – interior side of hatch, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(7) Rear Footwell Lights - driver and passenger side, under seat bench, Qty.2 bulbs, 12V/5W
(8) Footwell Door Lights - bottom of door panel, Qty.4 bulbs, 12V/5W

PARTS
Qty.4, 63-31-7-941-911, F/R Footwell, F85 LED Light
Qty.1, 63-12-2-212-788, OEM LED Interior Light Kit; Qty.6 round LEDs (overhead lights); Qty.4 flat LEDs (footwell lights)
Attachment 1992816
Qty.2, 63-31-2-414-105, OEM LED Projector Light Kit; Qty.2 per Kit
Attachment 1992833
Qty.1, 63-12-2-351-265, OEM LED Interior Lamp Kit, Qty.2
Attachment 1992836

GLOVEBOX LIGHT INSTALLATION
-I don’t have the DVD and it appeared the DVD trim cover was in the way, so I removed it.
Attachment 1992814 Attachment 1992819
-TO remove the light, you’re supposed to pry down the light starting from the right side. However this was not as simple as it seems b/c the light is in there very tight, at least on my car. And there was little space to maneuver with tools. Using the BSW pry tool, I wedged to wedge both sides of the light down enough for me to get my fingers on it and pull down. Start on the right side and use wedge end of the bsw pry tool (not forked end) oriented so the tool is perpendicular to the dvd cover trim opening. Push the tool forward while wedging the tool between the light and the cutout. This will drop that end of the light down a small bit. I repeated for other side of light. Then I could grab and pull it straight down and out. Very tight fit.
Attachment 1992815
-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face down when installed. Also take care to ensure the LED is not touching the metal surround on the light fixture…if it touches it will blow the F2 fuse, located under the passenger side dash. If needed, remove lower passenger side dash cover (one phillip screw and two T-20 screws), lower fuse box (one green phillips screw), and replace F2 fuse (10A, ATC Fuse type). Press light fixture back in place and reinstall DVD trim cover.
Attachment 1992820

FRONT/REAR FOOTWELL LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location and/or black surround frame. Use the prytool to remove. The rear footwell lights have this detent on the lense part…there is no need to remove the black surround frame.
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the F85 X5M light fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The F85 light fixture has two pins, align the E70 connector to the F85 light fixture, ignore the keying of the E70 light connector. Shown below installed.
Attachment 1992829


FRONT CEILING LIGHT (ROOF SWITCH UNIT) INSTALLATION
-REMOVE U-shaped trim surrounding dome light. Use the pry tool to open a gap and insert an old credit card. Push forward and down and it pops off. You then have access to the two clips holding the unit to the headliner. Unlatch the clips and pull the front of the unit down with unit hinged from rear. I did not remove unit and replaced bulbs with unit hanging.
Attachment 1992813 Attachment 1992826

-THERE are three bulb locations, see image of OEM bulbs installed. Rotate the bulb holder 90 degrees and pull out bulb. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install.
Attachment 1992825

-INSTALLATION of unit is reverse of removal, but on my vehicle pushing the unit into place is not enough to engage clips. Note that to the outside and next to each exposed front clip is a rectangle hole in the unit. Using the wedge side of the pry tool, insert tool into the hole and push upwards with force until you hear the click. Repeat for opposite side clip. Ensure the unit is sufficiently installed. Reinstall U-shaped trim surround.

MIRROR/VISOR LIGHT INSTALLATION
The visor light can be easily pried down, front of vehicle to back using the nylon tool. You will need Qty.2 two-pole LED Kit p/n: 63-12-2-351-265 from BMW. These are shorter than the OEM original bulb, so take the pliers and bend the tangs on the visor light inward until they accommodate the LED bulb taught. You don't want the LED bulb loose or moving around or you'll get blinking. The tangs appear to be tough, but just pay attention and proceed cautiously. The pliers I show allowed me to plant them at the base of the tang and bend inward allowing support at the base while bending...avoid pulling upward.

Attachment 2011286
Attachment 2011287

INTERIOR REAR CEILING LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-I was one bulb short. RealOEM shows I can purchase one bulb, but the part number doesn't show up on ECS Tuning or advantagebmwparts.com (local dealer site with discount).
-EACH rear light fixture is installed into a metal rectangular frame which is fixed to the headliner.
Attachment 1992835 Attachment 1992824

-TO remove you will use the pry tool and the pick. The TiS removal image doesn’t tell the whole story, see below. First wedge the pry tool oriented 90 degrees from what’s shown in the TiS image. Friction will keep the pry tool in place and allows you to use both hands in the next step. As shown in the image below, the clip can barely be seen in the headliner. Insert the pick (straight red arrow) as shown and pry clip away from metal rectangular frame. Simultaneously, with other hand, pull down on light fixture (clip end) until released.
Attachment 1992834

-THERE are two bulb holders. Rotate them 90 degrees and remove. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Replace with round LED bulb from OEM kit and re-install. The rear light is installed in reverse order of removal.

LUGGAGE/TRUNK HATCH LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-ONE edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the trunk hatch location. Use the prytool to remove.
-LED installation is as easy as removing original bulb and plugging in a flat LED from the OEM kit. CAUTION, BULB IS HOT. Note to install such that the LED side (yellow square) will face outward from the hatch when installed. Image shows one LED light installed.
Attachment 1992818

FOOTWELL DOOR LIGHTS INSTALLATION
-THESE lights are found on the bottom of the door panel. One edge on each of the light fixtures has a slot detent to allow you to pry the light fixture from the footwell location . Use the prytool to remove. Note that the connector cable for the light may appear to be very short. I was able to pull the connector cable carefully to expose additional slack (about an inch).
-ONCE the light is removed, simply connect the OEM Light Projector fixture and install into the original location in reverse order of removal. The Projector Light fixtures have two pins, align the E70 connector to the Projector Light fixture pins and ignore the keying of the E70 light connector.

FINAL IMAGES
Attachment 1992830

Attachment 1992831

Awesome write up, your X5 looks amazing. Just changed my interiors to LEDs. Tried ebay brand then tried VLEDS neither worked for the dome or map lights. Both brands continuously flickered. Ended up buying 10 pack OEM kit for uppers lights (of course short one bulb) so left rear maps with old bulbs. I could buy single led dome bulb but $35 CDN is a lot. Now working on reverse lights need to code off voltage monitoring but with Carly app I’m getting “Severe fault found in FRM” error message. So thinking to try NCS Expert to code it. But not sure if it will brick the module.

What did you use to code your X5?

[argento]

Hey thanks, I use bImmergeeks ProTool. BUT I haven't coded the voltage monitoring yet, it's on my list. I used PrecisionLED reverse lights, and so far so good (knock on wood).

I get occasional flickering, just a single blip.

[argento]

This post will evolve as I attempt to wrap the OEM diffuser. I will include my install notes and a detailed DIY on rear bumper removal. For now, I'm going to just provide updates as I work on wrapping the diffuser.

First, I want to rave about Sott Elemento-6 Carbon Fiber wrap. I didn't think I'd ever say this, but it is even better to work with than Vvivid wrap, it is so forgiving. Simply heating returns the film to original state. Now, it won't fix scratches or marring you introduce as you apply.

Below are images of my first full attempt at wrapping the diffuser. Overall a poor result, but I realized early on this would be a test application. I spent time 1) learning to apply around the raised fins, 2) stretching over the exhaust cutouts to see if I could do so with one piece, 3) Trying to figure out to what extent I could continue to remove, repair spots, and reapply and 4) properly apply the film over the 3M knifeless tape so I could get a straight edge.

I messed up from the get-go by not removing the protective wrapping. Unlike VVivid, it is not obvious to spot or remove. In fact I started believing they sent me a portion that didn't have protective wrapping. As I struggled with wrapping the diffuser, I eventually cut off a piece as I wanted to confirm there was not protective wrapping. After some time with an exacto knife I was able to finally lift a corner...huge difference. But some damage was done (marring).

If you plan to use this film for complex surfaces, I believe it''s critical to go through the exercise of wrapping something several times to learn how this film works. I'll post notes once I'm done...

Good from far, but far from good. The exhaust cutouts are very rough and incomplete. You can see the material is really stretched toward the back, but luckily this won't be visible normally. The finishing line is not bad, but I've determined some changes on my next application that will help improve the cut line.


Here's a nice shot of a mostly clean area I managed to wrap (a few imperfections). NOTE - This is the most accurate CF I've seen to date in color and graphics. These fins are a pain, but I got much better after hours of messing with this.


Some bubbling, marring, and wrinkles. There is a lot of this across the diffuser on this first run. But it's mostly caused by being hasty and subconsciously knowing that this was not the final run.



SECOND ATTEMPT: This was much better, I'd call it 90% of where I'd like to be. The exhaust cutouts and the 3M knifeless tape are the weaknesses. The knifeless tape worked well, but a couple spots were not clean cuts and detracts from all the work on the surface. I should have worked the tape removal more carefully 4-5 inches at a time, instead of pulling on it like I was reeling in a fish. I could probably use this as-is, but am contemplating a third attempt...





THIRD ATTEMPT: This one is 95%. I'm getting much better, but I wish I had a repeatable defined process for doing the fins. Each one is using the technique that fits best at that moment. The surface is much cleaner on this attempt...On Run2 I was using the squeegee edge in arcs to lay down the film...the result was fine arc marks visible at certain angles. For this run, I avoided that technique and the surface is less marred. Notice the curve above right exhaust cutout, the knifeless tape caught and ripped a chunk out I had a similar, but less dramatic, result on the opposite corner. I also developed a better method for doing the exhaust cutout surface with half as much stretching as Runs 1 and 2. However, at a cost, this method put tremendous tension in the diffuser corner film, thus catching the knifeless tape and resulting in the tear (even with me being very careful in the corner with the knifeless tape). HOWEVER as I worked this new method I realized there is an even better method that would work with little to no stretching, however my 12"x60" sheet was not large enough. I would need to redo the entire effort with an 18" wide sheet. Another lesson learned.





FOURTH ATTEMPT: Lots of work and the knifeless tape situation was a crash and burn.

FINAL ATTEMPT: Posting pix only, will post a writeup later...








More below...

[Prelude93]

Originally Posted by argento

Hey thanks, I use bImmergeeks ProTool. BUT I haven't coded the voltage monitoring yet, it's on my list. I used PrecisionLED reverse lights, and so far so good (knock on wood).

I get occasional flickering, just a single blip.

I may try the same reverse bulbs. The ones I bought from Amazon, flicker for about 2-3 seconds every time I start the X5 and then flicker once every minute or two when vehicle running. So would be very distracting to other drivers while driving.

Curious if your bulbs are reacting the same?

[argento]

Originally Posted by Prelude93

I may try the same reverse bulbs. The ones I bought from Amazon, flicker for about 2-3 seconds every time I start the X5 and then flicker once every minute or two when vehicle running. So would be very distracting to other drivers while driving.

Curious if your bulbs are reacting the same?

Ah, sorry, yes you are right they do flicker at startup, then occasionally afterward like you describe. Although I just need to disable voltage monitoring on the reverse lights and it should be good. So it sounds like your Amazon bulbs should be good after coding....

[Prelude93]

Originally Posted by argento

Ah, sorry, yes you are right they do flicker at startup, then occasionally afterward like you describe. Although I just need to disable voltage monitoring on the reverse lights and it should be good. So it sounds like your Amazon bulbs should be good after coding....

No worries. Thanks for checking your bulbs. Guess coding is what I need to do as well.

[argento]

Updates to POST #188 above, three attempts so far at wrapping the diffuser in carbon fiber vinyl...

[argento]

Finally finished the diffuser wrap. More pix in Post #188 above, where I will add a writeup later.



DIFFUSER UPDATE 6/11/2021: It's been 7 months on the car, a couple washes, 223 miles, and always garaged. The wrap is sustaining very well, but it's apparent that the inside corners on each side of the fins has too much tension. There is some delamination (bubbles) in those areas, however the rest is holding up very well. This SOTT vinyl would be a good wrap for the roof, however I've noticed over the past couple months that this vinyl wrap is 'out of stock' just about everywhere. My second choice CF vinyl would be the 3M 2080 CF Black b/c it has a texture that makes it look like real weave...although it's matte and not glossy. If you asked me today, I'd probably recommend a CF diffuser cover instead of wrapping, unless you are or go to an expert vinyl installer. $0.02.

ALSO, I will most likely take a fine pin and relieve the air in the bubbles and keep it a while longer.

NOTE: In hindsight I could have used Rapid Tac on the fins..I even has some in hand...it eliminates bubbles and helps adhesion in the area sprayed. I made a choice not to use it, but sounds like a bad call, lol.


And an update to the rear taillights...swapped matte highlights for gloss black and added a second stripe above the reverse lights:




Some dark smoke headlight film on the LED headlights:

[argento]

Earlier this year I tried to wrap the shift knob in CF wrap to no avail. Tried out the Sott today and wrapped it in 15m. Another 15m and three exacto blades to clean the edges...no over-wrap needed with this film.







Notice that the push button surround on the shift knob is wrapped in gloss black.


I'm thinking of doing the radio panel in CF, instead of the gloss black. The 3M gloss black I'm using has a lot of orange peel and doesn't look 'gloss'...could be b/c of my install, but it's also partly b/c the the original plastic surface is not super smooth like the aluminum trim. You can see it in the background of the last image not looking glossy. The iDrive surface was pretty smooth and it comes out looking gloss. Thoughts?

Also, can anyone help me with sourcing a new idrive top black plastic piece (the pc with arrows)? Mine is pretty rough and who wants to buy an entire idrive for the top hat??

[argento]

Thanks to krnnerdboy for this DIY: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...ht=rear+bumper

DISCLAIMER - This DIY is for REFERENCE ONLY. These instructions worked for my vehicle and may not work for your vehicle. There is potential for damage if the DIY is not performed with care.

RECOMMENDED TOOLS:
Pry Tools - To remove oem plastic rivets
Heat Gun - To soften oem plastic rivets for removal
T10 Torx Driver - To punch out oem plastic rivets
3mm Allen Wrench - To punch out oem plastic rivets
Plastic Riveter - I used an Astro Pneumatic 1445 90-Degree Hand Riveter for Plastic Rivets
8mm Socket and Wrench - To remove bumper bolts (8X)

REPLACEMENT PARTS:
Expanding Blind Rivets, Black, Rear M Arch, 51-77-7-171-004; Requires replacement after removal (6X)
Expanding Rivets 51-11-8-174-185; Replace if damaged (2X)
Hex Head Screw, ST4, 8x16-ZNS3, Rear Bumper, 07-11-9-901-299; Replace if damaged (8X)

BUMPER COVER REMOVAL
1. On both sides of the vehicle, rear wheel well, remove expanding rivets (1X each side) holding rear bumper to wheel well covers. Using pry tool, pry out center pin and remove. Replace if damaged on install.

2. On both sides of the vehicle, rear wheel well, remove the first 3 blind rivets from the rear fender flare to loosen the wheel arch. For each blind rivet, use a T10 Torx driver to push and release the center pin inward. Finish pushing the pin out with a 3mm Allen wrench. Pry blind rivet outward from arch using pry tools. IF you have trouble with this step you can use the heat gun to first heat the blind rivet until hot to the touch. Then proceed with the T10 Torx Driver. CAUTION, too much heat could cause damage to paint and surrounding area...PROCEED WITH CARE.

3. For each side, disconnect the back portion of the wheel arch from the body panel via the tabs (self-evident; should require very little effort) and pull the rearward portion of the arch slightly away from the vehicle to reveal a bolt. Remove 8mm bolt.

4. On the bumper cover, remove both rear reflectors underneath the taillights using pry tools. Remove 8mm bolt.

5. From underneath the vehicle remove Qty.4 (four) 8mm bolts holding the bumper cover to vehicle.

6. Open bottom tailgate at a 45* angle and tie down in that position. There are four tabs under the tailgate to which the bumper cover is clipped. Use the pry tools to unclip each tab. I found a small metal prytool works best. As you look at the tabs, start on the left side and position the Y of the prytool so that when you rotate clockwise one end of the Y moves the big tab outward and the other end of the Y lifts the bumper tab upward. Now do the same for the left side, except mirrored from the right.



7. Start at one wheel arch and pry the bumper cover from wheel arch cover. Pull outward and down to clear the wheel arch cover so that the bumper cover can be removed rearward. Same for opposite side.

8. Move to the bumper cover area below the taillight and pull towards you evenly until bumper cover tabs detach. SEE IMAGE BELOW. The bumper cover has tabs with a slot, while the body has rigid aluminum male tabs that clip into the bumper cover tab slot. You may need to press down on the bumper cover tabs to clear the rigid aluminum male tab. Same for opposite side.



9. Disconnect PDC connector.

10. Pull bumper cover rearward to remove.


BUMPER COVER INSTALLATION
1. Tie off tailgate at 45degree angle.

2. Place center of bumper cover on vehicle, aligned to four tabs under tailgate

3. Connect PDC connector.

4. Working on one side (directly behind wheel and under taillights) align the bumper cover tabs with slots to the male tabs in the vehicle body. This will require you to stretch/pull the bumper cover over the wheel well cover. Once the cover tabs are aligned to the body male tabs, press them into place to install.

5. Align and insert the tabs under the tailgate starting from the bumper cover side that was just installed; work toward the uninstalled side.

6. Working on the remaining side (directly behind wheel and under taillights) align the bumper cover tabs with slots to the male tabs in the vehicle body. As before, this will require you to stretch/pull the bumper cover over the wheel well cover. Once the cover tabs are aligned to the body male tabs, press them into place to install.

7. Install hex head screws behind the wheel arch trim (2X) and the reflectors (2X).

8. Install hex head screws (4X) beneath the bumper cover

9. Install 1X expanding rivet, then 3X blind rivets on wheel arches of both sides. I was able to install blind rivets without removing the wheels. Images shows one blind rivet after removal and one prior to install.



10. Install reflectors (2X).

END.

[argento]

Removed 3M gloss black from climate/radio trim and rear console trim. and wrapped in CF. BTW, the climate/radio trim has a very thin black coating that unpeeled when removing the wrap...two small spots. I wrapped over it and a barely visible line shows, but just letting you know to take caution. Most gloss wrap will be compromised slightly and is dependent on the smoothness of the surface to which you apply. The Sott still looks better than the 3M gloss, but you can still see some fine orange peel. I used a Seal-It-Pen for corners and the long edge, which will de-laminate without. Coated all the Sott Wrap with 9H ceramic coating and it makes a big difference. BTW, FWIW, the 9H ceramic coat was an inexpensive Amzaon selection so I had something on hand. I didn't do much research, but very easy to apply and looks very glossy after application. NOTE: Don't forget to orient the carbon fiber grain so it's all in the same direction once applied to all the pieces.

OTHER PROJECTS IN WORK:
1. Wrap lower exterior mirror in CF - Currently wrapped in 3M gloss black (which looks very good). Not much left that I want to wrap. May try to wrap roof in CF to see how it looks...

2. Remove OEM exhaust tips - I think I now understand how to remove w/o completely cutting them off, we'll see...

3. Install new 3.5" exhaust tips - I have two sets on hand, one clamp and one requiring welding. Probably start with the clamped versions.

4. B&W (Option S6F1A) Speaker Upgrade - As posted by another forum member; I have the S752A Individual audio system. Been PMing with him to understand totality of this mod. Based on his upgrade the 825 watts with the individual amp should be sufficient; I've placed orders for some of the components.

[argento]

Months ago I had wrapped the lower exterior mirror trim in gloss black and thought a triangular piece in the proper place might give the mirror some aesthetics and mimic F85 mirrors. However, I decided back then it was too tedious and maybe too much.

This week, as I wait for speaker parts, I accidentally stumbled across a shape that could work. After some testing of the template on the mirror, I decided to wrap them up and evaluate. Not shown are other templates I had to make to be able to mirror the location (positionaly) on the opposite mirror (template below is for both L and R mirrors). It definitely required some patience with trial and error.

Here are some pix since I haven't posted anything in a while...

Final Template:


Testing template on the mirror:


Parts wrapped in gloss black:




On the vehicle:

[boneca]

Originally Posted by argento

Months ago I had wrapped the lower exterior mirror trim in gloss black and thought a triangular piece in the proper place might give the mirror some aesthetics and mimic F85 mirrors. However, I decided back then it was too tedious and maybe too much.

This week, as I wait for speaker parts, I accidentally stumbled across a shape that could work. After some testing of the template on the mirror, I decided to wrap them up and evaluate. Not shown are other templates I had to make to be able to mirror the location (positionaly) on the opposite mirror (template below is for both L and R mirrors). It definitely required some patience with trial and error.

Here are some pix since I haven't posted anything in a while...

Final Template:
Attachment 2502039

Testing template on the mirror:
Attachment 2502040

Parts wrapped in gloss black:
Attachment 2502041

Attachment 2502042

Will post pix on vehicle when they get put back on...

Looks awesome