argento's alpine white X5M

[0-60Motorsports]

Originally Posted by argento

I'm not finished with the DIY, b/c there may be some diagnostic work needed...dropping off tomorrow to determine the details. However, I'm far enough along that I can provide you all with the CHECKLIST. I made this AFTER my install as during the install I was fumbling with pages. It's basically the quick version of the DIY, really meant to ensure you don't forget something...OR for advanced installers just needing a quick list of tasks.


DISCLAIMER: This Checklist is for REFERENCE ONLY and serves only as backup to help ensure all steps have been addressed. See DIY for full details. This procedure represents one method of installation on a specific vehicle and is shared/posted for **REFERENCE ONLY**. [COLOR="Red"]This procedure requires **CAUTION** as it involves heavy loads and stored potential energy that could cause serious personal injury and/or vehicle damage if mechanical disassembly and/or assembly is performed improperly. [/COLOR] Use extreme caution and all applicable safety processes when working on your vehicle. This procedure is based on a collection of other DIYs as referenced in the Reference Section of the DIY, as well as ISTA.

CHECKLIST NOTES:
- 2013 E70 X5M
- Checklist based on a complete and consecutive Dinan Spring Install from front to rear axle.
- NORMAL POSITION TORQUE: Place vehicle in ‘normal position’ per ISTA. Otherwise, for consideration: For those fastenings called out to be torqued in normal position, note that the rear fasteners in this DIY can be accessed with the wheels mounted and vehicle on the ground. For the front axle, this is not easily the case. To put front axle in normal position, consider placing jack stands under lower control arms and fully loading suspension to simulate torquing in ‘normal position’.

PRE-INSTALLATION (Prior to Jacking)
☐ (optional) Record ride height for reference
☐ Position vehicle with steering straight ahead
☐ (optional) Fold mirrors to decrease obstructions around vehicle
☐ Ensure emergency brake is OFF
☐ In engine bay, remove left and right microfilter housing covers and right microfilter housing
☐ In engine bay, loosen left and right partition walls and rotate toward vehicle center for access to front strut housing.
☐ In trunk, disconnect negative battery cable
☐ In trunk, for vehicles without third row seating, lift trunk lid and remove carpet trim to access rear strut top mounting bolts.
☐ Jack vehicle, place jack stands, and remove wheels. If jacking one axle at a time, use wheel chocks as necessary.
☐ Place removed wheels under vehicle side skirts as additional safety backup.

FRONT AXLE
☐ Rotate hub/disc rotor so that concave indentions point in vehicle forward direction or OEM marked surfaces point upwards. Mark rotor/hub orientation so that if the driveshaft uncouples from the final drive and the rotor/hub is unknowingly rotated, you know the approx. orientation of the hub to reinsert driveshaft.
☐ Remove hydraulic brake line clamp with pliers and uncouple grommet/line from strut brake line bracket.
☐ Decouple EDC connectors and cables to allow untethered strut removal from vehicle.
☐ Support lower control arm with hydraulic jack, using wood spacers as needed.
☐ Remove Stabilizer Link from Swivel Bearing. If needed adjust hydraulic jack to unload sway bar for link removal. (18mm Box Wrench and T35 Torx Socket)
☐ Disconnect Swivel Bearing from Upper Control Arm. (16mm Socket and Box Wrench)
☐ Consider tethering Swivel Bearing as it becomes unwieldly and naturally leans outward and can disconnect drive shaft from final drive.
☐ Remove Strut Shock Assembly to Spring Strut Holder Bolt and loosen clamping mechanism between Shock Assembly and Spring Strut Holder using expanding tool. (16mm Socket and Knuckle Expanding Tool)
☐ At Lower Control Arm disconnect Spring Strut Holder by removing Bolt and Nut. (21mm Socket and Wrench)
☐ With Suspension in lowest position, separate Spring Strut Holder from Strut Assembly.
☐ In Engine Bay, with Strut Assembly supported beneath, remove three Nuts at each strut tower.
☐ Remove Strut Assembly downwards out of wheel arch. Record photos capturing relative position of OEM components for future assembly of stock configuration. (13mm Socket)
☐ Using Spring Compressor Tool per manufacturer instructions, slowly compress OEM Coil Spring, remove Strut Nut, and slowly decompress OEM Coil Spring for spring removal. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool and 6mm Allen Wrench)
☐ On bench, install Dinan Auxiliary Pads and new strut components onto Strut Assembly.
☐ Using Spring Compressor Tool per manufacturer instructions, with Strut Assembly and Dinan Coil Spring mounted, slowly compress Dinan Coil Spring, until strut nut can be installed and torqued. Slowly decompress Dinan Coil Spring. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool and 6mm Allen Wrench; M12 Nut 48Nm)
☐ Insert Strut Assembly with Dinan Coil Spring into strut tower and install three new nuts. (13mm Socket; M8 Nuts 28Nm)
☐ Install Upper Control Arm to Swivel Bearing (M10 Nut 56Nm)
☐ Install Stabilizer Link to Swivel Bearing (M12 Nut 100Nm)
☐ Install EDC Connectors and route cables.
☐ Install Brake Line Clamps
☐ Place vehicle in ‘normal position’ per ISTA. Consider using hydraulic jack, position jack stands under lower control arm and load suspension to mimic ‘normal position’. First torque Lower Control Arm to Spring Strut holder Bolt. (21mm Socket and Wrench; M14 Bolt 165Nm in Normal Position).
☐ Then, in ‘normal position’, torque Spring Strut Holder to Strut Assembly. (16mm Socket; M12 Bolt 81Nm, Torque in Normal Position)
☐ Return vehicle to nominal lifted configuration using hydraulic jack and jack stands.
Front Axle Complete.

REAR AXLE
☐ Partially detach rear wheel fender linings (or remove rear bumper) and disconnect VDM cable routing and plugs at connector box to allow strut removal from vehicle.
☐ Remove hydraulic brake line clamp with pliers and uncouple grommet/line from strut brake line bracket.
☐ Remove Bolt connecting Shock Absorber to Control Arm. But first support wheel hub or control arm with hydraulic jack to unload bolt, then remove. (21mm Socket)
☐ Supporting Strut Shock Assembly from underneath to prevent it from falling out, remove three nuts from strut tower in luggage compartment. (16mm Socket) (Requires new sealing grommet at installation).
☐ On bench, disassemble Strut Assembly by removing strut nut. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool and 6mm Allen Wrench)
☐ Replace OEM Auxiliary Pad with Dinan Auxiliary Pad, install new components, and reassembly Strut Assembly. (18mm Strut Nut Socket Tool and 6mm Allen Wrench; M12 Nut 34Nm)
☐ Insert Strut Assembly into strut tower and install three new nuts. (16mm Socket; M10 Nut 56Nm)
☐ Adjust hydraulic jack as needed to insert bolt into Lower Control Arm and Strut Assembly. Hand Tighten in place.
☐ Reconnect EDC Connectors and route cables. Re-install fender linings.
☐ Install Brake Line Clamp
☐ Remove OEM Sensor Rods. (10mm Socket)
☐ Install Dinan Sensor Rods that have been each set to a length of 70.05mm (M6 Nut 8Nm)
☐ Mount front and rear wheels and lower the vehicle in reverse order of raising (17mm Socket; M14 Nuts 140Nm)
☐ Torque Lower Control Arm to Strut Assembly loaded Bolt. (21mm Socket; M14 Bolt 165Nm in Normal Position)
Rear Axle Complete.

FINISHING THE INSTALL
☐ Confirm Torque of all Fastenings
☐ Install Engine Trim in reverse order of disassembly
☐ Install Trunk Trim in reverse order of disassembly
☐ Reconnect negative battery cable in reverse order of disassembly
☐ On vehicles with BMW Active Front Steering (AFS), set Steering Angle:
-Start Engine
-Turn steering wheel left to full lock.
-Turn steering wheel right to full lock.

[COLOR="Magenta"]TBD - As needed perform (diagnostic system needed):
☐ Perform 4-wheel computerized alignment
☐ Headlight Adjustment
☐ Ride Height Calibration
☐ Vertical acceleration sensor adjustment[/COLOR]

NOTE: If possible, allow Dinan coil springs to settle a few days prior to ride height adjustments.

END.


[COLOR="Blue"]==================>[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]The DIY is about 40 pages, including the checklist above. It includes a torque table, the required parts needing replacement (per ISTA), a tools list, and lots of figures and explanation. Most will not likely want or need all this info, but it will be available. I reviewed all the suspension DIY's I could find and referenced them and their links, coupled with procedures from ISTA. Once I'm finished I'll offer to post the PDF.

DIY Excerpt, Install Dinan Sensor Rods:[/COLOR]

Attachment 2663303


Jeremy

Awesome notes! What is your rear ride height with the rods set at 70.5mm

[argento]

I measured just under a 7/8" drop in the rear at 70.5mm rods...center bore to arch. That's with it running and no occupants. The front initially varied with only about 3/8" drop, but the springs are still settling and it's at the shop now for the ride height calibration.

=====>
Other work while there...Upper and Lower oil pan leaks, intercooler reservoir hose leak behind the front bumper, rear door lock actuators (finally failed for someone to see), new front tires (all on backorder at discount or tirerack, bmw checking emergency stock), emergency brake adjust, and alignment. Also, thanks to Sophisticated Redneck for his post on the oil pump chain, since we're already there, having that checked to confirm it's not loose.

Also, my Zurick Comprehensive Exclusionary warranty approved covering all the leaks and lock actuators...FWIW I'm really impressed with this warranty. They work directly with the SA and pay BMW directly, I only have to pay my $100 deductible at pickup. The documents also claim to cover emergency roadside (within limits), rental reimbursement, trip interruption, and it's transferable. It ends next spring, but I called them and there are no issues with buying another contract once this one expires. The max mileage they cover is 150k and 15years old from date of inquiry. This service alone covers what I paid, but have also used it a couple times prior w/no hassles. For those interested, it's not available at every bmw dealership, though I got mine from Minetonka BMW at purchase. You'll have to call Zurich and they'll find a dealership in your area that carries the warranty and you can purchase from them...

[Doctor///M]

Originally Posted by argento

I measured just under a 7/8" drop in the rear at 70.5mm rods...center bore to arch. That's with it running and no occupants. The front initially varied with only about 3/8" drop, but the springs are still settling and it's at the shop now for the ride height calibration.

=====>
Other work while there...Upper and Lower oil pan leaks, intercooler reservoir hose leak behind the front bumper, rear door lock actuators (finally failed for someone to see), new front tires (all on backorder at discount or tirerack, bmw checking emergency stock), emergency brake adjust, and alignment. Also, thanks to Sophisticated Redneck for his post on the oil pump chain, since we're already there, having that checked to confirm it's not loose.

Also, my Zurick Comprehensive Exclusionary warranty approved covering all the leaks and lock actuators...FWIW I'm really impressed with this warranty. They work directly with the SA and pay BMW directly, I only have to pay my $100 deductible at pickup. The documents also claim to cover emergency roadside (within limits), rental reimbursement, trip interruption, and it's transferable. It ends next spring, but I called them and there are no issues with buying another contract once this one expires. The max mileage they cover is 150k and 15years old from date of inquiry. This service alone covers what I paid, but have also used it a couple times prior w/no hassles. For those interested, it's not available at every bmw dealership, though I got mine from Minetonka BMW at purchase. You'll have to call Zurich and they'll find a dealership in your area that carries the warranty and you can purchase from them...

If you're doing the oil pan gasket replacements, be sure to ensure that your tech primes them prior to running the engine. Can potentially be a source of future issues down the line.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

I measured just under a 7/8" drop in the rear at 70.5mm rods...center bore to arch. That's with it running and no occupants. The front initially varied with only about 3/8" drop, but the springs are still settling and it's at the shop now for the ride height calibration.

I received rear sensor rods at different lengths, so I reached out to Dinan to confirm and they recommended 69.4mm center-to-center. Did you keep them at 70.5mm for preference?

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

==================>

The DIY is about 40 pages, including the checklist above. It includes a torque table, the required parts needing replacement (per ISTA), a tools list, and lots of figures and explanation. Most will not likely want or need all this info, but it will be available. I reviewed all the suspension DIY's I could find and referenced them and their links, coupled with procedures from ISTA. Once I'm finished I'll offer to post the PDF.

DIY Excerpt, Install Dinan Sensor Rods:




Jeremy

Apologies, I just saw this - I'm not sure why there are two variations.

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Apologies, I just saw this - I'm not sure why there are two variations.

AH, just saw it....yeah I got the drawing and email from a different tech. Unless one is Rev.- and the other Rev.A....there are two stage 1 configs...I am using Rev.A.

But the config difference I thought was only component related...

[argento]

Originally Posted by argento

AH, just saw it....yeah I got the drawing and email from a different tech. Unless one is Rev.- and the other Rev.A....there are two stage 1 configs...I am using Rev.A.

But the config difference I thought was only component related...

ARRGGHHH...math error on my part, it is 69.39 if you don't use a truncated mm conversion....I used 0.039, instead of 0.3937....AND I added the text in the drawing for reference. Fixing now...Thank you.

Luckily my stupidity was corrected when I built the block using inches...

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

AH, just saw it....yeah I got the drawing and email from a different tech. Unless one is Rev.- and the other Rev.A....there are two stage 1 configs...I am using Rev.A.

But the config difference I thought was only component related...

I'm using Rev.A as well.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

ARRGGHHH...math error on my part, it is 69.39 if you don't use a truncated mm conversion....I used 0.039, instead of 0.3937....AND I added the text in the drawing for reference. Fixing now...Thank you.

Luckily my stupidity was corrected when I built the block using inches...

Phew! got it! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't off Lol

Thank you for the detailed write up!!

[argento]

Originally Posted by Doctor///M

If you're doing the oil pan gasket replacements, be sure to ensure that your tech primes them prior to running the engine. Can potentially be a source of future issues down the line.

YES I confirmed, they do this, thanks for the heads-up. Still waiting on a backordered intercooler coolant hose before they wrap everything up...at least I'm in a loaner.

[argento]

Thanks to many who have posted previously and/or have answered questions directly. FWIW, here is my DIY for the E70 X5M Dinan Spring Install. Please only use if you are mechanically capable, there are some potentially hazardous tasks to this process. The checklist above in post #220 provides a shorter summary of the DIY and skips a lot of detail. The checklist is also in the DIY.

[UPDATED TO REV.2, 21Feb2022]

DIY REV.2_E70X5M Dinan Spring Install_argento-xbimmers_21Feb2022.pdf

[argento]

Since I will be installing the Akrapovic muffler soon, and my diffuser wrapping wasn't exceptional, and flapjack had some great pix of his diffuser on his build thread, I decided to purchase a carbon fiber diffuser.

Because I am dropping in a brand name exhaust, I thought I wouldn't skimp and decided to install a Vorsteiner diffuser. I hit every website that listed it in stock or not. None in stock. I did find one broken, but they claimed it was demolished. SO, I had to go with a replica, which saved me almost $1k from a Vorsteiner, so I'm not too disappointed. I spent less than $500 shipped and it arrived in 15 days (order to front door), despite claiming months for delivery.

Their communication was spotty at best and I'm still not sure it mounts without double sided tape, but that's what they claim. I haven't installed yet, but I can say the carbon fiber quality exceeded my expectations, FWIW. The real question is how it fits, so I'll report back once I go through that process.

[XRatedM]

Looking forward to exhaust and diffuser install - share the link of where you got this from

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Looking forward to exhaust and diffuser install - share the link of where you got this from

Me too, lol.

I can't recommend this unit until I install, but I got it on ebay, Item # 254973801507, enter this number into search.

There are a few vendors on ebay selling these. The vendor I bought from has a lower feedback % than the others, but was also cheaper. In reading the negative reviews it appears to be a problem in COMMUNICATION, mostly with newer model car diffusers with more complex installs. Their problem is that multiple depts (different products) at this vendor see the ebay messages and each dept may respond, causing confusion. For instance, and this may be TMI, but I emailed them about three times prior to purchase to see how this installs. I was told no double sided tape, only oem fasteners and a buckle at the bottom. I could never get a clear answer on how the buckle at the bottom works to keep the top part from being loose. They assured me they've been making for a long time and fits perfectly, but I would need to remove bumper..ok, done that a few times. They even required me to send a pix of my car to confirm fitment. Ordered, arrived. No buckle, but a bunch of screws came with the product. I messaged them about no buckle and we traded several messages, summarizing their responses in this order: 1) we included free 3M tape and screws for install. 2) No need for double sided tape, use only the screws. 3) Sorry, multiple staff a different depts received your message. So clearly I'm on my own on the install, but others that bought this exact product mentioned it fit, so we'll see. To me, it looks like it installs with the existing OEM fasteners and I may or may not need 3M double sided tap along the top...I don't see why the bumper needs to be removed, at least not yet.

There is one vendor on ebay selling these for $1500+, not sure what that's all about.

Picked up my car from the dealer as TS Nicholas is arriving and didn't want my car outside while I wait for parts to arrive. I actually got it back two Friday's ago, but then I found coolant on my garage floor over the weekend. Took it back, last Mon and my Zurich warranty once again covering the cost of another hose and the pump, no questions asked all parts/fluid covered. I don't complain about the time it takes b/c they've given me 750 loaner both times, been driving it for weeks and it's hard to swap back out, lol. I actually prefer being lower...coming from M3's...one day I'll get into an M5 and someone can take over this build for me :-)

[argento]

Activity Update ===>

1. Working custom crossover install into door panels. This has taken most of my time lately as I research and prep for install. Trying to make this install look as OEM as possible as well as making it reversible. I've been ordering lots of tools, including a brady label system for the crossover harnesses. Been testing adhesives that don't affect the abs plastic on the door panel back side, I've sourced some high quality UP-OCC copper wire and solder, etc. I've got almost everything, but taking this time to upgrade some electrical tools, so waiting on those. I'll mention that the enclosures I bought are much bigger than the crossovers (or the xo's are much smaller than I thought they would be), so I'll probably only use one for the dash install. The door panel has pocket area where the XO's fit perfectly, so will mount them with no enclosure.

2. I have almost everything I need for the exhaust install, except the parts for the exhaust grounding cable (can get any time) and exhaust valve hose extension kit. I thought I had everything I needed for the kit, but the new oem exhaust valve hose I've sourced (from two different places) is completely different, low durometer (soft), different ID/OD dims, appears much lower quality. It appears functional, however the different dimensions don't work with the other hose I bought for the kit so I'm left to source some a few inches of used oem exhaust valve hose OR purchase all new hoses to remake the kit...

3. Decided to remove the piano black vinyl on the interior aluminum trim. Leaving the CF vinyl wrap on center radio console trim for now.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Me too, lol.

I can't recommend this unit until I install, but I got it on ebay, Item # 254973801507, enter this number into search.

my Zurich warranty once again covering the cost of another hose and the pump, no questions asked all parts/fluid covered.

It looks fairly decent for the price, I'll wait for you to install before I pull the trigger.

And how does your warranty work, I looked into warranties through BMW and they quoted me $950/mo for 3 years, I'd rather pick up a new truck for that. So for now living without warranties lol

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

It looks fairly decent for the price, I'll wait for you to install before I pull the trigger.

And how does your warranty work, I looked into warranties through BMW and they quoted me $950/mo for 3 years, I'd rather pick up a new truck for that. So for now living without warranties lol

I can't claim, nor expect, everyone will have the same experience as I, but I've had more covered than I paid in warranty. Considering another contract when it expires next spring.

FWIW:

Call Zurich, get a list of local dealers selling their warranty. Go to the dealer, negotiate a deal, IF they negotiate. I got mine at purchase Mar.2017 for $4k, 5yr/75k miles...and that was discounted $500. 150k miles is the maximum mileage coverage. They cover vehicles 15yrs old from the date of inquiry. They have several levels of coverage and then you can select mileage/term. I purchased their highest coverage plan: Comprehensive.

Local BMW dealerships are not mandated by bmw on which warranties to offer. The dealership owners, at least with my local dealership, only offer third party warranties in which they are invested. Despite pleas from the service advisors, quality of warranty is not a factor. I stumbled across the Zurich warranty as it was offered by BMW of Minnetonka [FWIW a place which I highly recommend solely based on my experience buying this X5M from them].

Zurich is an exclusionary warranty (they explicity list what is not covered), they pay bmw directly, they cover all new gaskets/fasteners/seals, and I pay $100 deductible to bmw. My SA says some warranties will replace the part/labor, but expect existing fasteners and seals to be reused.

[argento]

Did a quick test fit of the CF diffuser. I noticed the following:

1) It does not exactly follow the oem diffuser outline FWIW. The upper corners of this diffuser are a bit more rounded, but it's not a significant factor to me. It does follow along most of the top and at the bottom. I will have to remove some of the vinyl wrap I installed so it doesn't peek out. Otherwise, fitment seems very good. I'll leave the vinyl cf wrap for protection from any rubbing, etc.

2) It appears the two inner fastener locations of the lower diffuser do align to the two oem fastener (nut plates) locations from beneath. However, I couldn't tell how accurately they align yet. The oem fasteners are too short to reuse.

3) You will have to drill some pilot holes (for sheetmetal screws) on the bottom of the OEM bumper cover for the two outermost mounting hole locations of the diffuser. I'm going to research to see if oem nut plates fit. When the CF diffuser is removed you would never see the drilled holes as this area is directly beneath the vehicle. I prefer reversible installs, but these small holes aren't significant IMO.

4) The fitment along the top seems firm when I hold the diffuser in place, but I may still incorporate some double sided tape on the installed vinyl wrapping just in case.

5) I feel the upper end of the diffuser needs to be perfectly aligned and held, then match drill beneath. For me, alone, this is cumbersome with the bumper on the vehicle and I'd rather remove the rear bumper to ensure the fitment is perfect. With that said, I don't think it's necessary for most, it just seems easier for me to remove the bumper cover and get best fitment. I posted a DIY on how to remove the rear bumper cover in this build thread, post #195.

[argento]

Post# 231, DIY for Spring Install updated to Rev.1.

I removed the sensor rods yesterday to adjust and realized I didn't provide the details in the DIY...it's more than a 10mm socket to remove.

[argento]

Continued from Post #219...

It's taken some patience, but I finally figured out how I want to mount the custom crossovers. I ditched the enclosure idea. I created oem-like harnesses using felt tape, a brady labelmaker, and oem connectors/pins/sockets. I'm going to mount the crossovers as shown using high strength 3M Advanced Adhesive Velcro and tape the harness bundle at the label with gaffer's tape to stress relieve the wires at the XO. Installation schematic shown.















UPDATE: [12DEC2021] - I've installed three crossovers and finished completing the harnesses on all five XOs. The three installed are located in the rear doors and I one in the center channel. I had a filtered B&W tweeter in the center channel, but replaced the tweeter with B&W without filter and installed the XO. When I compare the XO's to existing speakers three things are very obvious: 1) The B&W speakers in the rear doors are quieter than the front door S752 Individual Speakers. This is because the resistance of the B&W speaker pair is almost double than the S752 individual speakers. 2) The S752 individual speakers high frequencies are quite muddy. High frequency is loud and clear in the B&W. 3) Sitting in the rear seats the D-Pillar B&W's, where I used filtered B&W tweeters, sound significantly different than the rear door speaker set. And not for the better. This tells me I need to install XO's in the D-pillars so it matches the rear door setup.

Sitting in the front seat, the overall sound is enjoyable in this state, but you get the feeling (hearing clarity from rear area) it can be better. I'm currently running bavsound underseat subwoofers. The low end is likely not as clear as the B&W subs, but these are contributing nicely to the overall sound. I'm not at a want for bass and coupled with B&W mids, the midbass is tight. Note that I have the OEM equalizer set FLAT, which is critical. I have been primarily playing my lossless music files through the Android infotainment system, coupled with my USB DAC upgrade. The USB Audio Player Pro (UAPP) gain and equalizer allows me to make much finer frequency adjustments than OEM and I'm fairly certain the DAC and the UAPP attribute to the sound significantly. I can definetly say that the Android DAC Setup plays music at level above the OEM sound. STILL, you can't help wonder how much better B&W subs would sound...I have plans to upgrade to B&W subs if needed and once I finish the XO install.

The S752 Individual Speakers are great, however as I mentioned before, the "muddy' problem is likely that OEM capacitor/filters in the system are aging badly and likely aren't high end components to start. I've tested this degradation and it's tangible. It affects all the tweeters, except in the front doors. The front doors have an oem crossover and that's where the capacitors are for the front door system. I looked at adding the oem crossover to the rear doors and if you make a pigtail, this is easily doable. Instead of redoing my system back to the S752 level, I decided to go with this custom XO route and new B&W speakers. It also allowed me to request the highest end electrical components available from the fabricator for the XO build.

[argento]

I've had this Bimmergeeks ProTool with BT adapter for a while and finally got it working. After talking with Bimmergeeks it appears to be user error b/c I didn't disconnect Wifi and other BT devices besides the device using the ProTool App. After a lot of recent coding, I found this start procedure worked best for me and the BT adapter:

1. Ensure all other BT Devices are turned off in Android Device
2. With Android Device (I used a Kindle) WIFI ON, open ProTool Application and ensure no App updates are required.
3. Once ProTool App open, turn Android Device WIFI OFF
4. Plug ProTool BT Adapter into vehicle (remove lower trim panel to ensure snug fit)
5. Plug key into vehicle and press ignition button ON (do not start engine)
6. With Android Device WIFI OFF, pair new BT device, “Bimmergeeks!”, enter password. Should auto connect after first time login.
7. Follow instructions in ProTool Application

In hindsight I should have bought the cable, but now this works so I'm good.

The current version of ProTool organizes parameter coding into POPULAR, STANDARD, and EXPERT. Below is the path to get to the specific coding parameters (blue text). This may not all make sense unless you have the ProTool App open, but thought I'd share some of my coding changes.

1. ENABLED > Video In Motion - Enables video viewing while driving. Entertainment>Radio System>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Video In Motion. Default Setting = DISABLED

2. ENABLED > Remove Camera Disclaimer - Removes the camera legal disclaimer from Idrive/monitor. So when you put the car in reverse or choose side cameras, the legal ribbon doesn't obscure the display. Entertainment>Radio System>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Remove Camera Disclaimer. Default Setting = DISABLED

3. VALUE 02 [PWM_AL] > Low Beam - I believe changing this value increases the low beam voltage and thus intensity. Safety>FRM>Coding>Edit Coding>Standard>Low Beam. Default Setting = Value 01.

4. ENABLE > Comfort Closing FOB - Enabling this will allow you to Lock your vehicle and roll the windows/sunroof up by holding LOCK BUTTON on your key FOB for 1.5 seconds*. There is another coding [Comfort Closing Delay] that selects delay time from pressing lock button. Conversely, already enabled as default, is holding the UNLOCK BUTTON to open all windows and sunroof (default setting Comfort Open Delay = 2.5 seconds). IF Safety>FRM>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Folding Mirrors via FOB is enabled, then activating comfort closing folds mirrors as well after delay. Safety>CAS>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Comfort Closing - FOB. Default Setting = DISABLED.

5. 0 Seconds > Comfort Closing Delay - The delay from when pressing the LOCK button on the FOB until the comfort closing starts. Can change to 0, 1.5 seconds, or default. With Comfort Closing FOB and Fold Mirrors enabled, when you press the lock button on the FOB the car immediately locks and mirrors fold. If any windows are open, they also close. Safety>CAS>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Comfort Closing Delay. Default Setting = 1.5 seconds.

6. ENABLED > Comfort Eject - This makes the key FOB automatically eject when turning off the ignition. Safety>CAS>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Comfort Eject. Default Setting = DISABLED.

7. ENABLED > Show Seat Heating - Upon pressing heated seat button, display monitor shows seat heating distribution for a short time then disappears. If you have aftermarket Android Monitor, it does not switch back to OEM display. Entertainment>Radio System>Coding>Edit Coding>Standard>Show Seat Heating. Default Setting = DISABLED.

8. ENABLED > Remove Legal Disclaimer - Removes the legal disclaimer from Idrive monitor/display upon startup. Entertainment>Radio System>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>Remove Legal Disclaimer. Default Setting = DISABLED.

9. 5 > One Touch Blinker Count - Default car/key memory for one touch turn signal functionality, choose from 1, 3, 5, or 7 count. There is also an idrive setting that allows you to select a box for Blinker Count 3. With setting at 5, the box for 3 is un-selected. Safety>FRM>Coding>Edit Coding>Popular>One Touch Blinker Count. Default Setting = 3.

10. DISABLED > Cold Check Reverse Lights - ‘Cold Check’ means checking or monitoring the bulb when it is OFF, no power. In this case, disabling cold check means the system will not check/monitor the reverse lights when the lights are not in use (IE: vehicle not in reverse and bulb off). Since the vehicle has been upgraded to LED reverse lights, the LEDs flicker when a cold voltage check is made by the system. There is no flickering with halogen bulbs. This flickering of the LED reverse lights can be seen at startup. No fault is thrown because this brand of LED reverse lights meet the voltage range of the system check. If the LED fails when the vehicle is not in reverse (or LED not in use), no check will be made and no fault displayed on the cluster. As long as ‘Hot Check: Reverse Lights’ remains ENABLED, and the bulb has failed, then a fault will be sent to the cluster the next time the vehicle is put into reverse (or LED attempts turn on, IE: HOT). Safety>FRM>Coding>Edit Coding>Standard>Cold Check Reverse Lights. Default Setting = ENABLED.

11. ENABLED > Windshield Wipers Down - When using the windshield wipers and the ignition is turned OFF, force wipers to finish their cycle. Enabling this feature, will result in the wiper arms returning to full down position at Ignition OFF. Interior>Junction Box (JBBF70)>Coding>Edit Coding>Windshield Wipers Down. Default Setting = DISABLED.

12. ENABLED > Close Trunklid via FOB and Button - With this feature enabled, the interior center console ‘open trunklid’ button can be used to close the trunk. The FOB can also be used to open and close the trunklid. Chassis>Tailgate>Coding>Edit Coding>Close Trunklid via FOB and Button. Default Setting = DISABLED.

13. CUSTOM VALUE [Data: 10161E262E36404040] > DREHZAL_SEGMENT_SCHL - Trunklid Slam Fix, now closes softly. See thread https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1809659. Chassis>Tailgate>Coding>Edit Coding>Expert>HKL_70 CODING>DREHZAL_SEGMENT_SCHL. Default Setting = Value 02 [wert_02|Data: 404040404040404040].

I've connected to the ProTool App using my Android Monitor [with no real success, presumably b/c of my user error described above], however I've not done any real testing with it. Will report back.

I'm testing a few other parameters as well...

[XRatedM]

It's been a while since you posted photos of the truck, how does it sit after the springs?