X5M Spark Plug DIY

[kennyt]

Got mine done yesterday. About 2.5 hours. Thank you for your thorough instructions.

[hawkku]

Since nobody bothered to answer the question about the gap, I found that my stock plugs were set at .032 so I had to adjust the Bosch replacement plugs slightly as they came with a .028 gap.

[ncbimma]

Thanks for the write-up. Just did my plugs last night in about 45mins!

Replaced some worn plugs with nkg 95770 due to misfires from stage 1 BMS tune.

I didn't gap my plugs just kept the as is out of box and car runs solid now! Zero issues/codes

I may gap them later if I do the coilpacks

[yco]

nice post.. thought sparks were NGK but seems it was Bosch..

[OvalPiston]

Excellent writeup. I bought the same plugs, the non-M stamped Bosch plugs. Mine showed "R8" on them, the M-stamped plugs I took out were "R6". Bosch stated that those numbers are irrelevant, they are a manufacturer code only. I used ZR5TPP33 plugs in mine.

It really is a pretty simple job. Only plug on the back passenger side was tricky. Next time I'll zip it out and in faster using a U-joint for my extensions.

Here is a pic I took showing the interior of the engine compartment with the coils in full view, driver-side.

[Proflyer]

Just did mine. 1hr start to finish. You do NOT need to take off the intake. The engine cover will pop up off the posts and slide back far enough to clear the intake cover.

As a precaution I added a bit of dielectric grease to each coil before I put it back in where the connector is (NOT IN THE PLUG BOOT!) that’s a good thing to do with any electric plug as many coils and injectors have gotten smoked with corrosion. I have a misfire in my #8 cylinder so I swapped that coil with #1 and now it’s in 1. I did that so when the new one gets here it’s easy to swap out.

Thanks for the write up!

[boneca]

Originally Posted by Proflyer

Just did mine. 1hr start to finish. You do NOT need to take off the intake. The engine cover will pop up off the posts and slide back far enough to clear the intake cover.

As a precaution I added a bit of dielectric grease to each coil before I put it back in where the connector is (NOT IN THE PLUG BOOT!) that’s a good thing to do with any electric plug as many coils and injectors have gotten smoked with corrosion. I have a misfire in my #8 cylinder so I swapped that coil with #1 and now it’s in 1. I did that so when the new one gets here it’s easy to swap out.

Thanks for the write up!

did u order just one coil to replace?

[Dawgz]

Since these are 14mm, TIS calls for 30NM torque spec.

The 12mm ones are 23NM.

In the initial post it says 23NM?


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-plugs/5rctKot

[quick]

Originally Posted by OvalPiston

Excellent writeup. I bought the same plugs, the non-M stamped Bosch plugs. Mine showed "R8" on them, the M-stamped plugs I took out were "R6". Bosch stated that those numbers are irrelevant, they are a manufacturer code only. I used ZR5TPP33 plugs in mine.

It really is a pretty simple job. Only plug on the back passenger side was tricky. Next time I'll zip it out and in faster using a U-joint for my extensions.

Here is a pic I took showing the interior of the engine compartment with the coils in full view, driver-side.

Can you or any one else please post a picture of the passenger side bank to assess the difficulty level? The driver side looks really easy from what I see.

Thanks

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by quick

Can you or any one else please post a picture of the passenger side bank to assess the difficulty level? The driver side looks really easy from what I see.

Thanks

Passenger side is easy as easy as driver. Just did mine a couple weeks ago and it took maybe an hour and a half tops. Here's a picture I took of the passenger side showing the extent of what needs to be moved - basically the coolant reservoir and the vacuum canister.

Edit: looks tight in the picture and can't really see the tops of the coils well but there's plenty of room to work. To help with pulling the coils out of the tighter areas you can slide an extension through the latch on the coil and give it a tug. Also make sure to put some dielectric grease on the ceramic parts of the plugs to discourage arcing.

[quick]

So I had misfires in Cyl 1&3 and the spark plugs looked something like these, possibly cracked at the bottom.

The mechanic helping me didn't have the Bosch spark plug gapping tool so we never gapped the plugs. Everything went smoothly but I still have the limp mode under hard acceleration.

Since car has 41K miles, I guess it's time to change out the coils. I am thinking BAV auto one for the fact the the coil caps are red in color

I haven't bought the scan tool yet so not sure where the misfires are coming from, could and or should I change the coils?

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by quick

So I had misfires in Cyl 1&3 and the spark plugs looked something like these, possibly cracked at the bottom.

The mechanic helping me didn't have the Bosch spark plug gapping tool so we never gapped the plugs. Everything went smoothly but I still have the limp mode under hard acceleration.

Since car has 41K miles, I guess it's time to change out the coils. I am thinking BAV auto one for the fact the the coil caps are red in color

I haven't bought the scan tool yet so not sure where the misfires are coming from, could and or should I change the coils?

Didn't Bav Auto shut down? See info on ECS site: https://www.ecstuning.com/Page/bavau...rsrc=bvadomain

I went with Eldor coils and NGK 97506 plugs gapped at ~0.020". Wasn't having any issues prior to the plug/coil swap but regardless it seems smoother on cold start and throughout the rev range.

[quick]

Can anyone post what's the gap on the OEM plug with "M" or what are they gaping them to?

[Thecastle]

I did my plugs on Saturday. Of the 3 v8 bmws I’ve changed plugs on the m was pretty much the easiest. The biggest headache was the n62 4.8i as it was a pia to even get the coil packs out at the firewall due to almost no clearance. A shade tree should be able to do this in under 3 hours. I think it took me 3 hours to replace both map sensors, both diverter valves, and start on the thermostat and replace all plugs. I only needed 2 extensions and one joint for the rears and used a thin wall socket. I always get misfires from not having the coil packs seated right. They look seated but aren’t. So 2 minutes with Carly and a reinstall took care of that.

I replaced the map sensors and diverters chasing a 30ff. I’m also going to replace the waste gate pressure converters and thermostat with a 90c. The only way to get at those is to remove the fan, I tried without and it got dark so this was moved to another weeekdend.

I had a smoke test for vacuum leaks and boost leaks. My car runs better after replacing the map sensors, diverters and plugs. I suspect a failing map sensor or pressure converter is the source of my 30ff. No other associated codes.

[chris604]

Originally Posted by quick

Can anyone post what's the gap on the OEM plug with "M" or what are they gaping them to?

Did you find out what the gaps are?

[chris604]

Originally Posted by hawkku

Since nobody bothered to answer the question about the gap, I found that my stock plugs were set at .032 so I had to adjust the Bosch replacement plugs slightly as they came with a .028 gap.

So was the correct gap .032 then?

[TurnOne]

Is it me or the S63 plugs replacement is easier than the N63?

[milarsky]

Great write-up! The only pain the arse coil and plug is the passenger closest to the firewall. That damn vacuum canister cannot really be moved out of the way due to the vacuum routing lines. Don't struggle with it but rather work through it. The OP mentioned that you will need at least 3 to 4 different length 3/8" socket extensions depending on your preference regarding angles etc. By the way, I did all coils and spark plugs and it took me only 90 minutes. I am by no means an experienced mechanic. Just take your time, don't get frustrated, and keep things organized and calm.
jeff

[Grantsblue]

Originally Posted by OvalPiston

Excellent writeup. I bought the same plugs, the non-M stamped Bosch plugs. Mine showed "R8" on them, the M-stamped plugs I took out were "R6". Bosch stated that those numbers are irrelevant, they are a manufacturer code only. I used ZR5TPP33 plugs in mine.

It really is a pretty simple job. Only plug on the back passenger side was tricky. Next time I'll zip it out and in faster using a U-joint for my extensions.

Here is a pic I took showing the interior of the engine compartment with the coils in full view, driver-side.

Hey bud would u be able to take pics of where the vacuum pipes run. Ive recently had downpipes installed and want to make sure there correctly install as now the exhaust butterfly's arnt working.

[Grantsblue]

Originally Posted by ncbimma

Thanks for the write-up. Just did my plugs last night in about 45mins!

Replaced some worn plugs with nkg 95770 due to misfires from stage 1 BMS tune.

I didn't gap my plugs just kept the as is out of box and car runs solid now! Zero issues/codes

I may gap them later if I do the coilpacks

So u went to a hotter plug??

[JellyStyle]

Burger tuning says you run 2 colder if you have a tune, gapped to .022, its on their website under their plugs, their gapping tool is also the coolest thing.