Telephone Screen Stuck On "Please Wait" No Bluetooth or USB

[Melbowski]

Hi all, I did a moderate search, but wasn't able to find anything definitive on how to diagnose this problem out. Long and short is that when the iDrive is set to telephone it just says "please wait" forever. My phone doesn't connect or even show my Bimmer in its bluetooth menu. The USB in the center console doesn't work either (one in glovebox works though). Everything else appears to work just fine.

What I've found so far:

2011 X5 35i
professional nav (S609A)
bluetooth w/USB (S6FLA)
Firmware is up to date via BMW.com/update

Reading codes I saw one unit under CIC stated as disabled due to overheating.

Anywho, I'm assuming this is the TCU or MULF (don't know which I have, nor how to tell) so I'd like to start diagnosing this problem out. Any input on how to test these modules and where they're located would be greatly appreciated. I have NCS Expert and such on my laptop, so as long as I can code in another module it shouldn't be a big deal, I just have to figure out which one I need to replace. All help is appreciated

[smass]

Download ISTA+ and scan. If you TCU or MULF has issues it should let you know.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1023698

Id you have the sos button you will have tcu and mulf. Both are in the drivers side of the hatch by the amp. When one go bad, the other looses connectivity as the fiber is in series. That is why both bluetooth phone (tcu) and USB (mulf) are not working.

[Melbowski]

Thanks for the reply! I'll start downloading ISTA (I think I only have INPA installed), downside is that my internet is pretty slow so it'll take a while. In the meantime I was going to see about digging out the modules (I have SOS so it sounds like I have both; SOS also doesn't work) and looking them over.

Is there any way to physically inspect them? I've read that you can pull the fiber cable and see if the units are emitting light, would that be a viable quick check? At the very least I'll need the part numbers so I can find a used replacement online anyway. Also I'm assuming the replacement units will require coding? Is that done through ISTA or NCS Expert? I also have BMW Pro Tool on my tablet if it can be done with that.

Thanks again for all the info, and for answering my newb questions. I've only recently moved up to this generation from my E46, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can.

[Melbowski]

So I got ISTA up and running; wow is that nice! So the long and short is that it didn't really tell me anything I don't already know. It shows that neither the mulf nor the TCU are communicating, but that's about it. I'm not sure how to test the units beyond that, but I attached the screenshots I've got. If there's more diagnostics available that I don't know about, please let me know. Thanks again for all the help so far

[smass]

With the CIC awake, pull the fiber plug on the MULF. If you don't see a red light in the plug, the TCU is not passing the signal on to the next device in series. Plug it back in and do the same thing with the TCU plug.

You could also use a most terminator to bypass the tcu mulf one at a time. Or re-patch the most bus.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Genuine...-/262510254362

Most likely you have a bad TCU or MUlf. Replacement pricing for either is similar to a Combox which will replace both and get you bluetooth music streaming. So research "bmw combox retrofit" before you throw money at old components. Some 2011 E70 got them from the factory so yours just missed the cut off.

[Melbowski]

Alright, got in the trunk and started checking the cables; no light to the plug in the mulf, but there is a light in the plug to the TCU. Looks like it's my TCU that gave up the ghost. I'm not particularly against moving up to a combox, but it looks like the TCU will be much cheaper. Realistically, the car is my mother's, and she is not particularly tech savvy nor does she listen to the radio very often. She'll be happy enough with just having her phone work again and USB music. Either way I have some questions I hope you can clear up:

If I swap the TCU: Can any TCU be used, or do the part numbers need to exactly match? I've read that any one will do for bluetooth, but SOS won't work (though I've read BMW ended that service anyway). I also couldn't find any information on actually coding it, will the same HW and SW make it plug and play, or will it still require coding? Any DIY articles on coding one? Other posts say you need an ICOM cable to code the TCU and MULF, do I need an ICOM cable?

If I swap a combox: I keep seeing that I need an FSC code in order to code this; is this the same FSC code for updating maps, or can it not be acquired with the 1b and FSC generator? I've also seen mention of needing an ICOM cable, though I haven't seen this mentioned in the DIY articles, do I require one?

Sorry to keep asking all these questions; I'm certain all of this information is out there somewhere, but I sure can't find it. I've looked through dozens of threads, but the vast majority are just dead ends that have zero explanations on how to do anything at all. Thank you so much for your help so far, I really do appreciate it

[smass]

Swapping to a used TCU probably will work but you may get an SOS error which would need to be coded out.

You won't need an icom to do the basic parts of this project. Icom is only needed to update the firmware software on modules on the fiber. Or to update the CIC if software is too old for Combox. FSCs are needed for map updates but not normally needed for Combox retrofit.

There is a free option. Your mulf has bluetooth phone features that can be activated to replace the non working TCU bluetooth. Remove the TCU and terminate fiber with terminator (or un-patch from most bus for free). Move the mic pins from the TCU plug to the MULF plug. Pins 1, 19 & 21. Move BT antenna wire. Code out SOS/BMW assist and TCU. Enable BT in MULF.

[Melbowski]

I know this post is pretty old, but I just wanted to say thank you to Smass for all the information and your help!

I ended up sitting on the issue for a few months and decided to bite the bullet with a combox retrofit. The available guides weren't the clearest, but I was able to piece together a diagram and coding instructions. Been over a year now running the combox and it's been basically flawless! So glad you suggested this route over just the TCU replacement! Thanks again for all your help diagnosing the issue and pointing me in the right direction on getting it fixed.

[Captain_MoDala]

Oki same thing happened to me. So these are the steps that I did to fix it. 1st I'll explain what caused it and then how I fixed it. Hopefully it will work for others also.

I wanted to update the Idrive so got onto the website download latest software and updated it, then connected a phone and an OBD adapter to code in the Bluetooth audio settings as I wanted to listen to music via Bluetooth. After coding I go into the Bluetooth interface and it "keeps loading with please wait" making me wait forever. I had this trouble for a week. As it was eating me I did some trail and error and came to a fix.

So basically you'll need Bimmercode plus an adapter OBD which in my case I used the CX Link made for bimmercode.

All you have to do it get onto the app bimmercode and head into the Headunit - go into expert mode - it has a refresh type of symbol which will allow you to revert all settings and go bad to the default Idrive settings. Don't worry it will only reverse the Bluetooth settings and won't mess anything else up.

Once you revert the Headunit interface then click code and you'll be all good back to it working 100%.

You can also get it done by a friend who might have an OBD that can code.

Let me know if it worked for anyone. Thanks

[Bmweiner66]

Originally Posted by Captain_MoDala

Oki same thing happened to me. So these are the steps that I did to fix it. 1st I'll explain what caused it and then how I fixed it. Hopefully it will work for others also.

I wanted to update the Idrive so got onto the website download latest software and updated it, then connected a phone and an OBD adapter to code in the Bluetooth audio settings as I wanted to listen to music via Bluetooth. After coding I go into the Bluetooth interface and it "keeps loading with please wait" making me wait forever. I had this trouble for a week. As it was eating me I did some trail and error and came to a fix.

So basically you'll need Bimmercode plus an adapter OBD which in my case I used the CX Link made for bimmercode.

All you have to do it get onto the app bimmercode and head into the Headunit - go into expert mode - it has a refresh type of symbol which will allow you to revert all settings and go bad to the default Idrive settings. Don't worry it will only reverse the Bluetooth settings and won't mess anything else up.

Once you revert the Headunit interface then click code and you'll be all good back to it working 100%.

You can also get it done by a friend who might have an OBD that can code.

Let me know if it worked for anyone. Thanks

Hi I am In the same boat, I have went to bimmercode expert settings but CANNOT find the refresh symbol. do you have iPhone or android? been trying to figure out this problem for months