Oil Change Inquiry

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

the oil return lines sit under the compressor (cool side) at the front of the engine. Air comes in at the front of the engine from the intake to the compressors, The rear of the engine is where the turbines and hot side sit, at the rear of the engine which is not over the oil return block. I can measure the oil lines, and they have hardly changed in temp. You can see them from the front of the engine with the heat shield off. I noticed mine are leaking slightly..... anyway the lines are located this way to stay away form the exhaust side. The manifolds all run along the side of the engine which is the hottest part, and by placing the oil return block in the center its the place furthest from the manifolds on the top of the engine. The manifolds will be hotter than the turbine. The turbine spins by the action of hot manifold gases expanding into cooler exhaust. Expansion cools.

Makes sense. I guess it's not such a bad idea after all.

So there would be no extra heat hitting the rear of the block where cyl 1,2,3 and 6,7,8 are. Not the outside but internally as the turbo blanket would trap more heat in the valley compared to the stock heat shield.

I'm trying to understand this fully before I get the turbo blanket...as I really want it. But I don't want to inadvertently cause additional heat related stress to components in that area.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Makes sense. I guess it's not such a bad idea after all.

So there would be no extra heat hitting the rear of the block where cyl 1,2,3 and 6,7,8 are. Not the outside but internally as the turbo blanket would trap more heat in the valley compared to the stock heat shield.

I'm trying to understand this fully before I get the turbo blanket...as I really want it. But I don't want to inadvertently cause additional heat related stress to components in that area.

No I gotcha there. My goal is a reliability improvement for my car, as I use it a lot as a tow vehicle. My X5M is all stock, no changes to the intake, no tune. I've just been spending lots of money/time replacing failed engine bay components due in large part to plastic embrittlement which is a function of chemistry, age, and heat. The only parameter I can control on these parts is heat.

What I can say is that M5 owners who are at 1000hp, have had problems with the back two #4,#8 cylinders consuming lots of oil and having misfires due to high heat from turbos and aftermarket down-pipes. The OEM downpipes are double walled so they radiate a lot less heat then the aftermarket ones. So they've done a lot of experimenting with wraps/turbo blankets to address the heat issue.

On the S/N63 the turbos exhaust side are completely surrounded by heat shields. The top of the engine is covered by an additional layer of plastic and sound deadening which are a decent insulator themselves. The engine valve covers are another heat-shield between the turbo heat shield and engine internals. I don't have a way to measure the internal block temps to see if the turbo blanket makes a difference to the heat levels on the back of the engine. I suspect it doesn't change a lot at stock power levels since I'm not running the turbos outside their efficiency range. The blanket mostly redirects the heat out the exhaust when under load, keeping the engine bay cooler which also impacts engine internal temps. I have a 90C thermostat as well, which also impacts engine temps. So I'm not a good test case. I should have measured timing to see if the engine pulls timing under load, but didn't.

https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517342
https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1580001

[ryansbmw]

Liqui Moly in mine. No issues to report

[nuwde]

How many of you all are doing the lifetime replacement guarantee at FCP?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11427848321kt

or

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427848321kt-lm

Would love to hear your experience

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by nuwde

How many of you all are doing the lifetime replacement guarantee at FCP?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11427848321kt

or

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427848321kt-lm

Would love to hear your experience

I just give my used oil to my buddy that has a shop/lift at his house where I do most of my oil changes, mods, maintenance. He has a waste oil heater he uses in the winter so it helps him out a bit.

Something just feels wrong to me about sending a company back used oil and getting fresh oil in exchange. I know they have the lifetime warranty but I'd use that on other parts. It's not like oil changes cost all that much and I only drive 10-15k annually so spending a couple hundred on oil per year is cool with me.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by nuwde

How many of you all are doing the lifetime replacement guarantee at FCP?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11427848321kt

or

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427848321kt-lm

Would love to hear your experience

I use it all the time

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

No I gotcha there. My goal is a reliability improvement for my car, as I use it a lot as a tow vehicle. My X5M is all stock, no changes to the intake, no tune. I've just been spending lots of money/time replacing failed engine bay components due in large part to plastic embrittlement which is a function of chemistry, age, and heat. The only parameter I can control on these parts is heat.

What I can say is that M5 owners who are at 1000hp, have had problems with the back two #4,#8 cylinders consuming lots of oil and having misfires due to high heat from turbos and aftermarket down-pipes. The OEM downpipes are double walled so they radiate a lot less heat then the aftermarket ones. So they've done a lot of experimenting with wraps/turbo blankets to address the heat issue.

On the S/N63 the turbos exhaust side are completely surrounded by heat shields. The top of the engine is covered by an additional layer of plastic and sound deadening which are a decent insulator themselves. The engine valve covers are another heat-shield between the turbo heat shield and engine internals. I don't have a way to measure the internal block temps to see if the turbo blanket makes a difference to the heat levels on the back of the engine. I suspect it doesn't change a lot at stock power levels since I'm not running the turbos outside their efficiency range. The blanket mostly redirects the heat out the exhaust when under load, keeping the engine bay cooler which also impacts engine internal temps. I have a 90C thermostat as well, which also impacts engine temps. So I'm not a good test case. I should have measured timing to see if the engine pulls timing under load, but didn't.

https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517342
https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1580001

Good to see others were concerned with, and that it's an actual concern.... Lol

[quick]

Would driving (not in rain) without the engine cover not be better for the heat dissipation? It seems good for the engine but would that extra heat hurt the hood?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by quick

Would driving (not in rain) without the engine cover not be better for the heat dissipation? It seems good for the engine but would that extra heat hurt the hood?

Hood will be fine, I have been running mine for the past 50,000 miles with no engine cover. It's a giant blanket designed to absorb sound (BMW calls them Acoustic covers) and they are excellent at trapping heat too. Do your engine a favor and throw it away.

I also removed my rear partition and trimmed the rain gutters a half an inch. I have driven through Arizona monsoon rains without issue. It is incredible how much heat is allowed to escape now instead of just being trapped in the engine compartment. However if you are in a state that rains all the time, I would be hesitant to recommend the rear partition delete and rain gutter trim.

[Thecastle]

I'd also say if your not garaged and you get rain/condensation don't delete the rain tray (for cooling). The problem with deleting the rain tray is that it allows water to enter the engine compartment and over time causes corrosion of sensors/coils and etc, and check engine lights, limping, etc.

I would not do it where I live given how many problem threads I've seen from corrosion induced problems from broken trays/partitions. Parts of the engine are not designed to be exposed to constant moisture.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by quick

Would driving (not in rain) without the engine cover not be better for the heat dissipation? It seems good for the engine but would that extra heat hurt the hood?

Hood will be fine on a stock car.... However, most auto paint begins to degrade at temps of 300C I've read. If you're seeing that on your hood you need to address that or loose the paint. My heat-shield registers around 270C, without a turbo blanket/engine cover.

If you're tuned especially on a hot tune where you're way outside the efficiency range of these turbos, then I might be worried about the paint. Don't remove the heat shields. The acoustic cover is there for sound.

[nuwde]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

I use it all the time

Can you link which package you buy? Thanks!