Wastegate Rattle and Engine Malfunction - Reduced Power

[cd85233]

Hi guys, new around here but I'm decently handy with cars. I'm here looking for some help on how I should approach this.

Bought my X5 50i with about 110K mikes. Thing runs great! Unfortunately there are two small issues that I think may be related. I have searched all around but the answers I get aren't for identical to my issue.

So the issues are, waste gate rattle (or at least I think it is).

Idle: No rattle
Cold Start: Rattle
Warm Start: No Rattle
Accelerating: Rattle

Every once in a while, when accelerating hard, I get the Engine Malfunction - Reduced Power light. I can get it to go away by accelerating hard again. It doesn't come up 100% of the time. I don't think it's the HPFP.

Could these two issues be related? I have looked at the codes with Carista and nothing related to the issues I'm having.

Can you guys suggest the course of action? As I see it I have a few options but I don't know the cost of them and if I'm in there I might as well go all in.

1. Check vacuum lines: Cost?
2. Replace Turbo Solenoids: $300?
3. Send turbos for rebuilt to Turbo America or a local place: $1000?
4. Do 1-3.

The waste gate rattle bothers me, but the warning light worries me more. If hey are possibly related, I would like to take care of it. If not, then I'd like to focus on the light and how to figure out what it is.

Thanks in advanced guys!

[m5james]

What codes are you getting? I recently went from gutted stock downpipes to aftermarket ones, I was gonna try and adjust the wastegate arm but long story and I was forced to throw the car all back together. I get reduced power warning randomly at partial/rolling on throttle but never happens at WOT, so naturally I'm heavy foot all the time now...for less headaches :-) I get overboost codes, which seems odd considering when it comes up, but I've read it might be JB4 settings.

I've replaced the easier to access top vacuum lines, the ones under the wiring mess are harder to do access.

Solenoids could help but if their gaskets are good then it's likely not an issue since they're mounted to a higher up plastic charge pipe vs say an N63 engine that mounts the solenoids directly onto the turbo themselves.

I'm planning on going fully rebuilt and upgraded to stage 2 anyways, things just keep coming up to where I haven't done it yet. TLOA can do it for 1/3 the price of Pure, but it'll take them longer to source the parts since our turbos spin backwards vs most.

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by m5james

What codes are you getting? I recently went from gutted stock downpipes to aftermarket ones, I was gonna try and adjust the wastegate arm but long story and I was forced to throw the car all back together. I get reduced power warning randomly at partial/rolling on throttle but never happens at WOT, so naturally I'm heavy foot all the time now...for less headaches :-) I get overboost codes, which seems odd considering when it comes up, but I've read it might be JB4 settings.

I've replaced the easier to access top vacuum lines, the ones under the wiring mess are harder to do access.

Solenoids could help but if their gaskets are good then it's likely not an issue since they're mounted to a higher up plastic charge pipe vs say an N63 engine that mounts the solenoids directly onto the turbo themselves.

I'm planning on going fully rebuilt and upgraded to stage 2 anyways, things just keep coming up to where I haven't done it yet. TLOA can do it for 1/3 the price of Pure, but it'll take them longer to source the parts since our turbos spin backwards vs most.

Thanks for the reply, first of all!

I'm not getting any codes at all. Even when pulling it from Carista there's nothing really in there.

Additionally, I took a long road trip not long ago and noticed I got it very often when pushing it hard. The odd thing was that if i pushed it pretty hard again, it would go away. Would this help diagnose anything?

[cd85233]

Hi guys, Trying to give this a bump and some new details.

Did a carly scan and I got:

Fault Code: 00310B
Fault Explanation: Boost pressure control 2, plausibility

I went looking to do a leak test and didn't get very far. I am trying to figure out where I can plug into in order to pressurize the system. Any ideas there?

I was going after the intake and did discover that the driver side air intake hose is super loose and the screw that holds it in place is broke off. Could this be the issue all along? I don't have any other codes than this.

[jandref321]

That code is a wastegate code. I had to pull mine recently because the code was going constantly between 65-75 mph. I pulled the turbos and found that my driver’s side wategate arm was jacked up. When it closed it over extended and opened back up, lots of play. The passenger was okay, but looked like it was about to go bad also. I sent them off to a rebuilder and he confirmed the driver side wastegate arm/valve needed to be replaced and the passenger was in the way. I’m unsure of the difference between our turbos but should be the same issue. I haven’t gotten mine back yet but will report back here. I’m doing an upgrade at the same time and should be able to provide feedback on that also.

Aside from that, you should still replace your intake hose.

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by jandref321

That code is a wastegate code. I had to pull mine recently because the code was going constantly between 65-75 mph. I pulled the turbos and found that my driver’s side wategate arm was jacked up. When it closed it over extended and opened back up, lots of play. The passenger was okay, but looked like it was about to go bad also. I sent them off to a rebuilder and he confirmed the driver side wastegate arm/valve needed to be replaced and the passenger was in the way. I’m unsure of the difference between our turbos but should be the same issue. I haven’t gotten mine back yet but will report back here. I’m doing an upgrade at the same time and should be able to provide feedback on that also.

Aside from that, you should still replace your intake hose.

I though 30FF was the waste gate code? Usually come in pairs but mine doesn't have it.

How much did the turbo rebuilds run you, if you don't mind me asking?

[cd85233]

I just tried doing a leak test. I think I did it right. Removed the intake, plugged into the turbo and applied about 20 psi of pressure. I certainly hear a leak. I think it's coming from the inter-cooler.

Should I be hearing any leaks from any where? Did I do this right? Also, do I have to do each turbo independently? I would assume the system is connected somehow so if there are no leaks anywhere I wouldn't need to test both sides.

Is this the right way of testing?

[jandref321]

Checked everywhere but never wrote down my code other than “charging pressure 2 plausibility.” Major fail, sorry. Yours could still be the wastegates, or the divertervalves, or the vacuum hoses, or your boost sensor

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Checked everywhere but never wrote down my code other than “charging pressure 2 plausibility.” Major fail, sorry. Yours could still be the wastegates, or the divertervalves, or the vacuum hoses, or your boost sensor

Thanks! I'll keep going on getting this leak fixed. If it ends up being that then we'll know. If not Turbo rebuild time!

[jandref321]

I finally got my scanner to work after firmware update made it fail to connect a few times... The code I was getting is: 310B Charging Pressure Control 2, Plausibility.



Don't mind the diverter valve codes...I ran the diagnostic with the engine bay in disarray.

[X Driver]

i just replaced my turbos because of this code, it went away.

[cd85233]

Got the leak fixed. Turns out the hose out of the intercooler was not even tight... No more leak. Still have the code though, which sucks. I guess I need to call uncle and rebuild them.

While I was messing around there I did a age to get myself another code. Anyone familiar with this one? I think I got the map sensor wet.

"Charge air Cooling, energy operation Code: 002EA6."

[Colodano]

I just started getting the 310B code on my X5M as well. Only happens when really hot out, so I am wondering if it might just be the boost control solenoids overheating? I may give them a shot, and wrap them in gold foil to help keep external temps from effecting them as much.

Really don't want to replace turbos right now, but if that's what it ends up being...

Oh, and I am stock aside from Velos tune and k&n filters, running at 5000+ ft elevation.

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by Colodano

I just started getting the 310B code on my X5M as well. Only happens when really hot out, so I am wondering if it might just be the boost control solenoids overheating? I may give them a shot, and wrap them in gold foil to help keep external temps from effecting them as much.

Really don't want to replace turbos right now, but if that's what it ends up being...

Oh, and I am stock aside from Velos tune and k&n filters, running at 5000+ ft elevation.

Hmm, are you getting it when stepping on it really hard? I am in Arizona, 115 here a few days ago and I haven't really seen it be related to temperature.

I ran my logger (Carly) and plotted Boost set point vs absolute intake pressure and I get the code when I don't meet the pressure at 24 PSI. So i think I have a leak at the wastegate keeping me from getting to the 24 PSI since I can get to like 17 PSI.

Have you logged those two elements?

[Colodano]

Have not logged it yet, but that is a good idea.

I did drive around for a few hours yesterday, with a bunch of varied loads and situations, and no reduced power warnings at all.

[cd85233]

Just an update. I took the turbos out and applied about 10 PSI to them and the flap was wide open. Did some back yard engineering and tightened down the flap inside, adjusted the rod and shimmed the connection between the waste gate and the rod. Took it out for a drive the first night and everything was great. I am inclined to believe I was getting almost no boost before...Now I can hear the BOV going off which is awesome.

New issue is misfire on Cylinder 6. I was concerned I was over boosting since the flap was pretty closed off. Swapped coil between 6 and 7. 7 Is now giving me a misfire. More than likely coils needed to be redone a while ago. Ordered 8 coils and 8 plugs for under $200 (all OEM) from rock auto. Should be an incredible increase in power.

All-in-all it took me about 12 hours to do the job. I didn't have to take the cat pipes off but probably would have been easier. If I have to replace them again It should take me half the time since I know what I'm doing and I setup the clamps so I can take it apart. 12 hours and about $1 worth of copper sheets for shim and some copper wire to tighten down the flap. Not sure if copper was the best thing to do but it seemed fine.

Thanks for the help from others!

[Colodano]

Sounds interesting, did you take any pictures of how you shimmed the valves and rods?

I am trying to compare this to what I know of tightening wastegate arms and such on Subarus.

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by Colodano

Sounds interesting, did you take any pictures of how you shimmed the valves and rods?

I am trying to compare this to what I know of tightening wastegate arms and such on Subarus.

Sadly no, I was in DGAF mode at that time (8 hours in with 4 to go). But it's pretty simple. There is a rod between the flap in the solenoid, which tightens. You will the the interface where the rod and flap meet will be worn away from a perfect circle to an ellipse causing some play. I put some copper shims in there to keep that from wiggling. Inside the where the flap meets the arm, there was tons of up and down movement. I wrapper some solid copper wire in there to make things tighter and soldered it together to keep it from going anywhere.

If i was to do it again, I probably would not do the last part which included some high temperature pipe solder...it might be too low temp and if the wire unwinds it will mess things up pretty badly.

All of that 100% got rid of my wastegate rattle and gave me tons of boost back. I will report back after I get the new plugs/coils in to see if it is all kosher.

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by cd85233

Got the leak fixed. Turns out the hose out of the intercooler was not even tight... No more leak. Still have the code though, which sucks. I guess I need to call uncle and rebuild them.

While I was messing around there I did a age to get myself another code. Anyone familiar with this one? I think I got the map sensor wet.

"Charge air Cooling, energy operation Code: 002EA6."

For future reference, just as I thought this was the result of a bad MAP sensor at the intercooler. Got a used one from Ebay in great condition and that code went away.

[Thecastle]

I just caught up to this thread,

I just wanted to nmention I too just had a similar issue causing reduced power mode (aka limp dick mode) in the last 2 weeks.

In my case it was due to a massive vacuum leak caused by a faulty filtered air duct and a bad bank 1 pressure sensor.

[ncbimma]

Is there a visual resource for all hose, sensor etc related to vacuum issues?

I need to rule out my limp mode cause too. Got the 310b, 2a28 and 2ac4...

Wastegate...or vac issue or what?

[cd85233]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

I just caught up to this thread,

I just wanted to nmention I too just had a similar issue causing reduced power mode (aka limp dick mode) in the last 2 weeks.

In my case it was due to a massive vacuum leak caused by a faulty filtered air duct and a bad bank 1 pressure sensor.

Yea I had those too. The clamps at the intercooler/TB interface were not tight. Had to tighten one and put a new on on the other.

Originally Posted by ncbimma

Is there a visual resource for all hose, sensor etc related to vacuum issues?

I need to rule out my limp mode cause too. Got the 310b, 2a28 and 2ac4...

Wastegate...or vac issue or what?

Not sue about that. I looked too but didn't get much. I just did a smoke test/pressure test as shown above. This is a great site for instructions. Has pretty much anything you might need.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...epair-manuals/