argento's alpine white X5M

[argento]

Real quick photos from this evening, I just wiped it down with Z8 after a little getechniq water spot and ONR. Dealer left some spots, but I forgot to ask not to wash, my bad.

[argento]

Another one on level ground, car on. My front tires have no meat, need replacing very soon. This phone pic came out good, except for mailboxes, lol.

[XRatedM]

Looks awesome!! Love that you don't have front plates

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Another one on level ground, car on. My front tires have no meat, need replacing very soon. This phone pic came out good, except for mailboxes, lol.

I couldn't figure out what was different until I couldn't find no roof rails!!

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

I couldn't figure out what was different until I couldn't find no roof rails!!

Thanks! Yes, rail delete (post #135) with replacement rails in matte black. Will eventually have these rails painted in gloss black. Been flirting with wrapping the roof in carbon or piano black ever since. No decision yet.

I'm not gaga over my 310 wheels, but up close they look super nice and are oem for this vehicle. However at the angle above the spokes are highlighted and the awkward trapezoid shapes between spokes are hard to see...which looks good.

Still hoping the front will settle a little more...I've only driven a few miles since install of the springs.

[g.m00]

Killing it in white, beautiful ride mate

Originally Posted by argento

Real quick photos from this evening, I just wiped it down with Z8 after a little getechniq water spot and ONR. Dealer left some spots, but I forgot to ask not to wash, my bad.

[argento]

Ok, there may not be much new info in this post for many, however I thought I'd share my process for cleaning the steering wheel stitching and subsequently the steering wheel leather. This is the first time I've done a complete clean on this vehicle's steering wheel, though I have applied Leatherique Pristine Clean a few times since 2017. I spent maybe 30m preparing and getting to the wrapped steering wheel part. Then another 30m after the 24hour wait period...but I'm fairly slow.

Apologies, I failed to take BEFORE pictures. You'll have to trust me that there was a tangible improvement. However it looks, note this won't perform miracles, so temper expectations.

DISCLAIMER: This method worked well with my OEM leather Steering Wheel for X5M. It may not work the same for everyone. Prior to proceeding, test process on backside of steering wheel to confirm chemicals pose no threat to your steering wheel leather and stitching. I also tested this process on a 1998 OEM E36 M3 steering wheel (that's leftover from my E36M3 sale a while back - btw night/day improvement) with no issues. Also used on a 2016 Honda Pilot Elite steering wheel with no issues.



STITCHING
-Use microfiber pad to dab Oxyclean onto M Stitching. Then gently rub Oxyclean into M Stitching in circular motion with pad.
-Use Chemical Guys Nonsense Invisible Super Cleaner and microfiber towel as if gently wiping off Oxyclean from steering wheel
-Use microfiber towel with warm water to 'rinse' off chemicals from steering wheel leather and m-stitching
-Use microfiber towel to gently rub dry. Allow to air dry.
-Repeat if necessary for extra soiled threading. I recommend repeating process instead of leaving Oxyclean on stitching and leather to soak for some amount of time. No need to soak stitching IMO.

LEATHER
-There are many leather products but I've been using Leatherique since 2003. It requires a good amount of effort (not wipe-on/wipe-off) but the results have always been worth it. For the full process expect hours or if you have the time, days. The finish is matte (almost like brand new) and not glossy or wet looking (see pix below). There is relatively no odor and I use it once a year, maybe twice. Whatever you do DO NOT SCRUB leatherique (or any product) into your leather unless you want to remove the dye. I saw one post where someone used a scrub brush and were disappointed to see the dye disappear. I have always rubbed in gently with my hands or gloved hands.
-FWIW I do like the smell of leather and between Leatherique applications I use Zaino Z9 (cleaner) and/or Z10 (conditioner). I've tried many products that claim new car leather smell, but these Zaino products are my favorite leather smell. Surprisingly, even the drive-thru folks comment about the pleasant leather smell…or it's a hint I used too much?? It last a couple months, then reapply. The Z10 is apply and allow to dry, EASY. I admit, I'm unsure if they do any cleaning or conditioning, but the smell left in the car is why I use.

-Using rubber glove, apply generous amount of Leatherique Rejuvinator leather cleaner. Gently, without use of force, roll gloved hand with Rejuvinator over surface multiple times.
-DO NOT apply Leatherique to stitching. Note, I've applied Leatherique to stitching many times before w/o any noticeable issues. However, after just cleaning stitching I didn't want to risk discoloring the stitching given the Rejuvinator is brown.
-Wrap steering wheel with Suran Wrap and allow to sit for as long as you are able…preferably with a warm interior environment, out of direct sunlight (IE: leave outside but put up your sunshade). I left mine on for about 24 hours in the garage (low 80's F temp).



-Using a rubber glove, apply a generous amount (not dripping off steering wheel) of Leatherique Pristine Clean leather cleaner to remove Rejuvinator product.
-In the few minutes while that soaks, grab your microfiber towel, take to the sink, soak in warm water, and wring. Return and GENTLY wipe down the steering wheel where you applied product. I used a bright yellow microfiber towel and you can see the dirt removed and what remained after a simple no soap rinse with hot water. I suppose some of what remains could be dye, but very, very little. I couldn't capture in the images, but the rinsed towel actually looks much cleaner than pictured, not sure why. The takeaway is don't do any scrubbing.



-Using a dry microfiber towel, gently polish away damp areas. Allow to air dry.
-Some time later, return with a flashlight and examine the steering wheel closely…you're bound to have missed some spots. If so, wipe down gently with wet microfiber towel and polish dry.











Not bad for an 8.5 year old steering wheel!

[XRatedM]

Great update - very helpful, I'm finding time to get into interior detail and will certainly use this.

I have used leatherique product a while back but wondered if it can cause issues for perforated seats? Any thoughts on that?

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Great update - very helpful, I'm finding time to get into interior detail and will certainly use this.

I have used leatherique product a while back but wondered if it can cause issues for perforated seats? Any thoughts on that?

Man, great question. I used Leatherique on my wife's Honda w perf leather this past summer. No issues and came out great as usual. I used a light amount on the perf parts and used a wetter towel to wipe up. It really needed it and I was willing to take the risk. I've never done it on a bmw. In hindsight I might consider turning on the vented seats to provide positive pressure as I apply the product. Sorry I don't have a straight answer for you.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Man, great question. I used Leatherique on my wife's Honda w perf leather this past summer. No issues and came out great as usual. I used a light amount on the perf parts and used a wetter towel to wipe up. It really needed it and I was willing to take the risk. I've never done it on a bmw. In hindsight I might consider turning on the vented seats to provide positive pressure as I apply the product. Sorry I don't have a straight answer for you.

Thanks for the info - I'll keep that in mind.

[argento]

Sometimes I find myself searching for older posts, so I listed what I thought was significant to date...

Post #7, Page 1 - Adding BMW OEM Style 310 21" Wheels
Post #8, Page 1 - IND Custom Trunk Roundel, chrome ring remains
Post #15, Page 1 - Using Forever Black
Post #31, Page 2 - 15mm Rear Spacers Installed on 21" OEM Wheels
Post #39, Page 2 - Start of Accident Documentation
Post #46, Page 3 & #99, Page 5 - Accident Lesson's Learned and Status
Post #58, Page 3 - Accident Status and Dome Hood
Post #67, Page 4 - Up and Running Again
Post #71, Page 4 - Dashcam Hardwire DIY
Post #76, Page 4 - Ceramic PRO Pix (post-accident)
Post #87, Page 4 - Cerakoted DiMisa Exhaust Tips (now for sale)
Post #100, Page 5 - F85 OEM Interior LED Light DIY
Post #XXX, Page 5 - Front Bumper Removal notes
Post #119, Page 6 - Aftermarket Kidney Grill Install Tips
Post #121, Page 6 - 10mm Front Spacers Installed on 21" OEM Wheels
Post #122, Page 6 - Polishing OEM Exhaust Tips
Post #123, Page 6 - Pix of Yeti MTB build
Post #133, Page 7 - Android Monitor PROS/CONS (one of many)
Post #135, Page 7 - Roof Rail Delete DIY
Post #137, Page 7 - LED Reverse Lights
Post #139, Page 7 - Windshield Scratch Repair DIY
Post #144, Page 7 - Android Monitor Questions/Answers from Vendor (4x4)
Post #147, Page 7 - DEI Heat Wrap Tips
Post #149, Page 7 - 4x4 Android Monitor Installation Notes
Post #156, Page 8 - USB Cable Routing from Android Monitor to Armrest
Post #158, Page 8 - P3 Gauges - Vent Gauge - V2 DIY
Post #163, Page 8 - Gloss Black Interior Wrapping
Post #169, Page 8 - Tinting Headlights and Taillights, Part I
Post #172, #173, Page 8 - Addressing "Tension" in vinyl wrapping
Post #178, Page 9 - Tinting Headlights and Taillights, Part II
Post #181, #184, #193, Page 9 - Alternate Taillight and Headlight Tinting
Post #185, Page 9 - Comparing Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wraps
Post #188, #193, Page 9 & #214, Page 10 - Rear Diffuser CF Vinyl Wrap
Post #194, Page 9 - CF Vinyl Wrapped Shift Knob
Post #195, Page 9 - Rear Bumper Removal/Install DIY
Post #197, Page 9 - Exterior Mirror Gloss Black Vinyl Wrap w/Template
Post #210, Page 10 - 4x4 Android Monitor Sound Quality, Part I
Post #211, Page 10 - 4x4 Android Monitor Sound Quality, Part II (in work...)
Post #212, Page 10 - Windshield Drip Molding Removal/Install DIY
Post #217, Page 10 - Rear Caliper Polish & F85 Rear Rotors
Post #218, Page 10 - Dinan Lowering Springs, Pre-DIY, Part I
Post #219, Page 10 - Bowers & Wilkins Speaker Frequency Analysis & Fabricated Crossovers & XO Response Analysis
Post #220, Page 10 - Dinan Lowering Springs, Checklist DIY, Part II
Post #231, Page 11 - Dinan Lowering Springs, FULL DIY, Part III
Post #232, Page 11 - Aftermarket Carbon Fiber Diffuser, Part I - At first glance...
Post #234, Page 11 - Aftermarket Carbon Fiber Diffuser, Part II - About the Vendor...
Post #237, Page 11 - Zurich Aftermarket X5 Warranty Details
Post #238, Page 11 - Aftermarket Carbon Fiber Diffuser, Part III - Test Fit...
Post #240, Page 11 - Bowers & Wilkins Matched XO Installation (in work...)
Post #241, Page 11 - Bimmergeeks ProTool Coding Parameters
Post #244, Page 12 - X5M Pic w/Lowering Springs on OEM 21's
Post #249, Page 12 - BMW Steering Wheel Stitching and Leather Cleaning

[argento]

Continued from Page 11, Posts #232 (part received), #234 (vendor info), #238 (test fit). Corrections from previous posts: The diffuser DOES follow the OEM diffuser outline once installed and the outer edges pushed into position. I was able to install the diffuser w/o removing the rear bumper and I now recommend this as it keeps the bumper static while you apply pressure to the diffuser for install. I did not use 3M double sided tape and I don't believe it would help b/c the tension created by the diffuser is pretty high.

FINALLY got this installed today and I do recommend this product for the price. This is my second diffuser install (E46M3) and based on my expectations I'd give this product an "A-". To get a higher score this item would need to include hardware that is usable, provide clean thru holes that are actually drilled all the way through, and be installed with little effort. Despite this I was actually able to install the diffuser to look satisfactory and I could probably spend more time and effort to get it slightly better.











TOOLS & MOUNTING HARDWARE
-8mm Socket to remove OEM Screws from lower bumper
-Phillips Head Screwdriver
-5/32" Drill Bit for pilot holes
-13/16" Drill Bit if needed to drill out diffuser thru-holes
-Scratch Awl to mark pilot holes on bumper



-Throw away the random hardware that came with the diffuser and purchase as shown in pic:
-McMaster Carr, Qty.1, 90399A249, Rounded Head Screws with Washer for Sheet Metal, Black-Phosphate Steel, Number 10 Size,1-1/4" Long, Packs of 50 (or equivalent).
-McMaster Carr, Qty.1, 94808A153, Black-Phosphate Steel No-Slip Clip-On Nut, 10-24 Thread, for 0.13" Maximum Thickness, 0.31" Hole Center to Edge, Packs of 25 (or OEM C-Clip Nuts or equivalent for sheetmetal screws)
-#10 Rubber Washer, Min. Qty.4. (happen to have these already in my toolbox)



INSTALLATION
CAUTION! USE PPE – Wear a mask and eye protection PPE as carbon fiber dust can get into your eyes and lungs. Use gloves to avoid carbon fiber splinters from the diffuser. ALSO - The diffuser manufacturer recommends this be installed by a professional. This installation DIY is for REFERENCE ONLY
1. Remove two screws on center bottom of bumper cover using 8mm socket. Leave OEM C-Clip Nuts in place as they will be reused
2. Mount diffuser using center two bolt locations to OEM C-Clip Nuts using Screws and Rubber Washers. First mount loosely to make sure diffuser is centered, then tighten. If these fasteners are loose, then you will not create an accurate mark for the pilot hole on the outside fasteners. NOTE: The tightness of these fasteners can have influence on the final location of the diffuser against the bumper cover. By tightening here first, hopefully this will make your pilot holes more accurate and make final installation easier.
3. Starting on one side, use moderate force to align the diffuser to the OEM diffuser outline and hold. Then use the scratch awl to mark the pilot hole location on the bumper cover so it is aligned to the thru hole on the diffuser. NOTE: This is a critical step, so try to be as accurate as possible. If the mark/hole is too far toward the front of the vehicle, it will pull the diffuser top edge away from the bumper cover on final install. If the mark/hole is too far toward the rear of the vehicle the diffuser could sit loose. I recommend marking the hole as far forward as allowed by the diffuser through hole. If needed, b/c the diffuser does not sit correctly on final install, you can file the hole toward the rear of the vehicle creating a slot as needed. If you mark and cut the hole furthest aft, you can no longer move the hole toward the front of the vehicle, at least not without some repair work to patch the hole and drill again. IF you need to repair the hole, then I recommend taping the hole, punching the hole to clear the tape, use JB Weld plastic to fill the hole, then remove the tape and let dry.
4. Drill the pilot hole on the mark using a 5/32" drill bit. This allows the threads of the #10 sheetmetal screw to bite into the plastic bumper cover for added rigidity, in addition to the c-clip nut.



5. Repeat pilot hole for opposite side.
6. Next, ideally, you just reassemble the diffuser using the screws, washers, and c-clips. I used the mcmaster c-clips as basic nuts on the pilot hole fastening. Once the sheetmetal screw protrudes on the opposite side of the bumper cover, manually install the c-clip nut, rotating until it is tight, then continue with tightening of the sheetmetal screw.
7. In my case, at this point, I had trouble getting the diffuser upper corners to sit up against the bumper cover. I did not use the strategy above to mark the pilot holes, that was developed after the fact as I struggled to make adjustments. I loosened and tightened the four fasteners various times to get an understanding of how the diffuser is affected by the tightness of the four fasteners. After many iterations the diffuser sits as shown in the pix above. In my case, loosening the pilot hole fastening allowed the corners to sit closer to the bumper cover.
8. Good Luck! Next to install the Arka muffler and improve those exhaust tips...







3Jan2022 - Diffuser Update - LESSON LEARNED....

I've driven 22 miles since installation of the diffuser and found bubbles on top near the exhaust tips. Contacted the vendor and their guess was high heat to which all resins are susceptible. Then I remembered, in those 22 miles I had about two 30m stints in idle while I fielded work calls. That coupled with the tips sitting inset and exhaust gasses folding up and over the diffuser edge...HIGH HEAT EXPOSURE! Disappointing, but I only notice up close and like everything else it's easily replaceable if needed.

[argento]

Just thought I'd share this universal steering wheel cover I bought for my wife's Honda Pilot. She wanted a thicker steering wheel and continued function of the heated steering wheel feature. It's slightly thicker and heater function remains, so a nice perforated leather product for $15.99.

They have several color and material variations, but his is what I purchased:
Carodi Leather Steering Wheel Cover, Breathable Non-Slip Design, Soft and Comfortable Feeling, Universal 15 Inch Auto Car Steering Wheel Stitch on Wrap（Size M+, Black)
https://www.amazon.com/Carodi-Breath...23&sr=8-5&th=1

If you have a third generation Honda Pilot (2016-Present), then you need to disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the two hex screws on either side of the steering wheel which allows the airbag to be lifted up. I disconnected the horn (top) cable on the airbag by pressing the tab and removing clip. I left the airbag connections alone and folder the airbag over so it sat on top of the steering column. Next you have to loosen the steering wheel trim so you can fit the leather steering wheel cover under the trim. Remove or loosen three phillips screws on each side. The top is easiest as access is from the front behind where the airbag sits. The middle one took me forever to figure out a tool to remove. The access hole is behind the steering wheel, in the same cutout to access the airbag hex screws, but perpendicular. My phillips were either too bulky, too short, or too long. It was a pain. The lowest screw is accessible from behind the steering wheel and appears to be captured, so loosen only. This resulted in just enough play for me to pry the trim enough to fit the leather cover under. PM me if you need more detail.

I'm super slow so don't go by me...but I spent about 90m prepping and trying to figure out how to remove the Honda steering wheel trim...way too complicated design to pop off trim, terrible. I just ended up loosening the screws and prying the trim. And then about 90m stitching. Takes some patience and you don't want to be interrupted, lol.

Honda OEM Steering Wheel




IF you skip every other stitch, you'll get the same style of stitching found on the bmw steering wheels. If you look close on your ///M steering wheel the stitching thread is purple...mine is obv. black below and you can order with red stitching.

[argento]

I just installed a Spring Booster V3 with a SBV3 Controller Mounting. Huge Kudos to Sophisticated Redneck for creating a highly detail-oriented kit for installation. My bad, I did not take a picture of the kit before tearing into it, but it comes with all the parts, fasteners, tools, and instructions. You can find more details in his thread here:

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1883805

The controller mount is amazingly accurate and works perfectly. I did my best to wrap it with 3M 2080 CF vinyl wrap, but I only had a 4"x6" sample size and had to make it work with that..don't look too closely.

Test Fit after a bit of test wrapping. I have the leather CF oem trim and this 3M CF vinyl is close but a bit more glossy than the OEM trim.


Final wrap and Assembly of the SBV3 Controller into Mount:




I used a piece of tubing b/c it was a bit more rigid than string to find a path from the trim panel to the accelerator pedal:




Run the cable under the carpet trim to the pedal area. I'm skipping the part about removing the pedal assembly to install the rest of the SBV3 pigtail, as it's covered in the Spring Booster instructions. The pedal can be removed by remove torx bolt at the base of the pedal (after removing the tiny circular trim cap), then lift pedal assembly UP along the line of the floorboard/carpet.


The oem pedal assembly has a small notch that kinda holds the controller cable in place.


All Done!


Really great work and detail by Sophisticated Redneck on this controller mount. As always, he's a wealth of knowledge. Thanks!

[0-60Motorsports]

How is the Sprint booster? I am tuned to stage 2 and was thinking about getting one of these but i feel it might be too aggressive in M mode.

[argento]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

How is the Sprint booster? I am tuned to stage 2 and was thinking about getting one of these but i feel it might be too aggressive in M mode.

I've only done a test drive and it's all subjective. In Race5, Mbutton & Sport Shift, it upshifts with very little pedal input. I didn't like it. But in regular mode it felt very nice and smooth. In Sport5 or below the difference in regular or M mode was very subtle.

So all that to say I need some drive time to find the balance and give you better info.

[argento]

Diffuser Update - LESSON LEARNED....

I've driven 22 miles since installation of the diffuser and found bubbles on top near the exhaust tips. Contacted the vendor and their guess was high heat to which all resins are susceptible. Then I remembered, in those 22 miles I had about two 30m stints in idle while I fielded work calls. That coupled with the tips sitting inset and exhaust gasses folding up and over the diffuser edge...HIGH HEAT EXPOSURE! Disappointing, but I only notice up close and like everything else it's easily replaceable if needed.

[argento]

Items on the horizon...

1. Install B&W Subs (sell bavsound subs)
2. Finish Catch Can routing design, order parts, and install
3. Finish B&W matched crossover installation on front doors (order XO's for D-Pillars)
4. Path for new bmw shift knob determined, order parts to test/confirm
5. Akra Muffler Install
6. Front F85 Rotors and Brakes

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by argento

Items on the horizon...

1. Install B&W Subs (sell bavsound subs)
2. Finish Catch Can routing design, order parts, and install
3. Finish B&W matched crossover installation on front doors (order XO's for D-Pillars)
4. Path for new bmw shift knob determined, order parts to test/confirm
5. Akra Muffler Install
6. Front F85 Rotors and Brakes

Hey man, long time! Your ride is looking great as usual! I bought a bunch of parts for my E70 to do a catch can setup before I sold mine. It uses billet aluminum adapters to go from BMW clips in the oil lines to AN fittings. Let me know if your interested in using it. I planned to ditch the regular hose and run braided AN…

[argento]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

Hey man, long time! Your ride is looking great as usual! I bought a bunch of parts for my E70 to do a catch can setup before I sold mine. It uses billet aluminum adapters to go from BMW clips in the oil lines to AN fittings. Let me know if your interested in using it.

Hey Man, glad you still check in with us! It's quiet w/o you, boneca, and others posting. Though XRatedM thread is chock full of great work and images he's been sharing.

Sincere thanks for offering! But I'll have to miss out, I already committed and ordered a separate/ lightly-used set of filtered air ducts and new fittings. I'm going to go with Sophisticated Redneck design and use 8AN to 3/8"NPT adapter to the oem lines and then 8AN swivel hose ends and black nylon braided tubing throughout. I should mention I won't be doing his very well thought-out 3 hose method, just a basic 2 hose per catch can. One day I may need to upgrade to three hose and use that negative pressure to stem oil leaks, so keeping that link handy, lol!

Hopefully someone else can benefit and take those off your hands...

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by argento

Hey Man, glad you still check in with us! It's quiet w/o you, boneca, and others posting. Though XRatedM thread is chock full of great work and images he's been sharing.

Sincere thanks for offering! But I'll have to miss out, I already committed and ordered a separate/ lightly-used set of filtered air ducts and new fittings. I'm going to go with Sophisticated Redneck design and use 8AN to 3/8"NPT adapter to the oem lines and then 8AN swivel hose ends and black nylon braided tubing throughout. I should mention I won't be doing his very well thought-out 3 hose method, just a basic 2 hose per catch can. One day I may need to upgrade to three hose and use that negative pressure to stem oil leaks, so keeping that link handy, lol!

Hopefully someone else can benefit and take those off your hands...

Sounds good man, looking forward to your set up! I just picked up an F85, already have things moving lol, hasn't even been a month yet.

[boneca]

Originally Posted by argento

Hey Man, glad you still check in with us! It's quiet w/o you, boneca, and others posting. Though XRatedM thread is chock full of great work and images he's been sharing.

Sincere thanks for offering! But I'll have to miss out, I already committed and ordered a separate/ lightly-used set of filtered air ducts and new fittings. I'm going to go with Sophisticated Redneck design and use 8AN to 3/8"NPT adapter to the oem lines and then 8AN swivel hose ends and black nylon braided tubing throughout. I should mention I won't be doing his very well thought-out 3 hose method, just a basic 2 hose per catch can. One day I may need to upgrade to three hose and use that negative pressure to stem oil leaks, so keeping that link handy, lol!

Hopefully someone else can benefit and take those off your hands...

Thanks man for honorable mention

I do see u posts and always love what u do!

Don't have much to say as I'm currently don't own BMW but I have X5 (not M) on order due to arrive late in the month!

Might do something to it as well, u know me

Talk to you later and Happy New Year!