Build Log: M57 X5

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by wcs531

Ultra Racing now offers an upgraded front sway bar now: AR29-498 (29mm solid vs 27mm hollow).

I'm getting some squeaks over bumps which I believe is the sway bar bushings as i've replaced almost everything else preventatively, so was looking into upgrades while I'm messing with them. Pretty sure im going with the Ultra rear unless you're no longer happy with it for some reason. Front sway bar install seems A LOT more involved than the rear so I might skip that one, but figured you might be interested. In the F15 forums, which I would assume is a very similar process, someone mentions removing the radiator to install??

Post #36
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1426158&page=2

Good looking out. I may look into it but going to the Ultra Racing website I don't even X5 or X-series listed in their products. Edit: I was on the US website, www.ultrraracingshop.com had the products.

The X5 is still very "tilty" with the side to side weight transfer. I know it comes with a taller SUV but it's always seemed excessive IMO, my wife's 4M Q7 with base spring/strut suspension and static sway bars (as opposed to air suspension and active sways) seems like it's locked in this regard.

That guy who posted #36 in the F15 forum it's unclear that he even owns an X5, his cars are listed an E90 and F10, if he does have an F15 the engine spec might also make a difference inthis regard but who knows. What really throws me is that guy says he runs H&R springs and he "loves it" ....he can't be trusted. lol

I've done some annoying sway bars installs before (E39 540iT) so the hassle isn't a huge deterrent especially since the E70 seems like it could really use it. Not too crazy about the 320GBP price though.

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

I would like to see the output from the stock E70 "E46" projector with a new chrome bowl and a clear lens swap. It might be as good, if not better than the projectors he installed and you wouldn't have to spend money on brackets or spend time trimming.

Well shucks, I wish we had gone for a ride one of the times we met up. I've got the Tony rebuilds, and the output is honesty fantastic.

If you want to compare, tell me camera settings and I can set my old Canon dlsr with fixed settings so we can try to compare.

[ucsbwsr]

End of Winter Start of Spring Update.

Truck/trailer rental? No thanks!


Passenger seat removal was key


Fighting the good fight against winter grime


Got caught in a snow squall on a snowboard trip. This was the drive up...


This was the drive back (in squall)


Aftermath, proud to say this is my best "winter coat" to date.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

X5 + SNOW + MUSHROOMS=


Telluride is very nice, probably the most striking mountains I have seen so far in the Rockies.



Picked up some kayaks from the in-laws. MPG wasn't great driving from Havasu, AZ to Denver.


All 3 vehicles clean at once? Had to snap a pic


New summer wheels inbound. Switching the 5th Gen 1LE ZL1 wheels for 6th Gen. I prefer the more traditional 5 spoke look but the wheels are still chunky, concave, and relatively light. The wheels are currently at the machine shop, then straight to the powder coated for a fresh satin black finish.




I also snagged an exhaust manifold which will be ceramic coated. This is part of my hot-side refresh which will include new ex-manifold studs, hardware, and all new gaskets to hopefully, finally, resolve my annoying exhaust leak.

[MRobi]

[QUOTE=ucsbwsr;25817374
With the dark theme of the X5 the taillights and their bright red bothered me a bit so I got some Lamin-X smoked film. This is the lightest they make and offers the "dark-cherry" look I was going for. I also used some knifeless tape to cut the film so that it was only on the red and the white/clear sections have no film.[/QUOTE]

I'm wondering if you could confirm the tint-color you used. I'm looking to darken the red slightly but don't want that fully tinted look. I know you said smoked film, but you also said the lightest they make which according to their site is "tint" while smoked would be considered medium-dark.

Tail Light Tint Film Color Options
Tint: A light tint film for your tail lights that tones down the red. Adds a sleek look to your tails.
Gunsmoke: A medium tint for your tail lights. A darker and more bold tint that our Tint film.
Smoked: A medium-dark tint for your tails. Smoked has a slight brown hue compared to our Gunsmoke film.
Charcoal (8 mil Thickness): Charcoal is our black-out tail light option. If you want to black-out your tails, Charcoal is for you.
Red (8 mil Thickness): Our Red film is designed to give your tail lights a consistent red look, even if there are large clear sections.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by MRobi

I'm wondering if you could confirm the tint-color you used. I'm looking to darken the red slightly but don't want that fully tinted look. I know you said smoked film, but you also said the lightest they make which according to their site is "tint" while smoked would be considered medium-dark.

Sorry for the confusion, it was "tint" the lightest they offer.

[MRobi]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

Sorry for the confusion, it was "tint" the lightest they offer.

Thanks for the clarification!

One more question. I see you did a D2S conversion. I've actually got a set of Morimoto D2S bulbs + 55w ballasts sitting on a shelf in my basement for a project on a vehicle I ended up selling. What else would I need to pick up to use them? I see on their site they have a d1s to d2s adapter but that looks like for use with factory ballasts since it acts as the ignitor. Any more details you could share on that conversion?

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by MRobi

Thanks for the clarification!

One more question. I see you did a D2S conversion. I've actually got a set of Morimoto D2S bulbs + 55w ballasts sitting on a shelf in my basement for a project on a vehicle I ended up selling. What else would I need to pick up to use them? I see on their site they have a d1s to d2s adapter but that looks like for use with factory ballasts since it acts as the ignitor. Any more details you could share on that conversion?

You will need a Female D2S ballast power pigtail and tap that into the OEM wiring for the low beam, this will be your trigger for the ballasts.

Run a relay harness to power the ballasts.

Get some D2S to D1S bulbs adapters, they are circular and snap onto the base of a D2S bulbs and then you can install it onto the projector like a D1S bulb.

[conandrum]

Hey ucsbwsr, how did you manage to remove the Rear compartment monitor aka RSE aka Rear seat entertainment display without damaging it?
I am referencing your post #36 https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...4&postcount=36

What is the correct procedure to follow here if you remember?

[conandrum]

I think I found the correct procedure in this manual attached as a pdf.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by conandrum

Hey ucsbwsr, how did you manage to remove the Rear compartment monitor aka RSE aka Rear seat entertainment display without damaging it?

What is the correct procedure to follow here if you remember?

I followed the steps outlined on NewTIS

[conandrum]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

I followed the steps outlined on NewTIS

Thanks for replying ucsbwsr.

If anyone is wondering how to do this, keep in mind the following:

The key to this job is an old credit card or other loyalty card you may have in your wallet. The pdf guide mentions a special tool sold by BMW, which is essentially a plastic card.
Do not use metallic tools like screwdrivers or any thick plastic trim tools for this job, otherwise you will regret scratching or marring your monitor's finish.

As the guide states, you start with the smallest pieces of the monitor's base. I will use the diagram in my previous post as a reference... see no.7. These are like the shoulders of the monitor and they are NOT hard plastic... they are soft and flexible and rubber like.
So you carefully use the plastic card from their side, where they touch the hard plastic body. Get the card under the soft rubber and pop it out. So easy but do not be violent or in a rush!
Then stick the credit card between the 2 remaining pieces (no.6) of the base and pry them apart.
In my experience, the piece facing the front of the car popped out first. That was the bit which was covering all the screws for the monitor, console compartment and the console wooden trim.

That's all I needed!
I proceeded to remove trim pieces, console compartment, idrive controls, plastic trim covers (repainted a few days ago), console cage, and finally my cup-holder unit to which I performed a sliding cover replacement.
I put everything back together and now the console looks factory new!

Job well done.

[CleanE30]

Hey ucsbwsr, love the writeup and all the details. I have recently purchased a 2012 X5D with 3rd row. The only different to you is that I actually need to use the 3rd row as I have four kids. I have read and try to outline details around your progression with the suspension, but I am a bit confused as to what are the restrictions if I do keep the 3rd row. I am not sure if I can run the modified setup you had with the Konis keeping the 3rd row. Would you mind commenting on how your setup would have been different if you did keep the 3rd row. Also, would you mind outlining the part numbers that you would use to make that setup and finally what kit (part numbers) did you end up using with KW V3's (was it for non-air or air)?

Much appreciated!

[Sam Lin]

Thanks for all the detailed info in this thread. I'm following late in a lot of the same footsteps and it's saving me a ton of Google or trial and error.

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by CleanE30

Hey ucsbwsr, love the writeup and all the details. I have recently purchased a 2012 X5D with 3rd row. The only different to you is that I actually need to use the 3rd row as I have four kids. I have read and try to outline details around your progression with the suspension, but I am a bit confused as to what are the restrictions if I do keep the 3rd row. I am not sure if I can run the modified setup you had with the Konis keeping the 3rd row. Would you mind commenting on how your setup would have been different if you did keep the 3rd row. Also, would you mind outlining the part numbers that you would use to make that setup and finally what kit (part numbers) did you end up using with KW V3's (was it for non-air or air)?

Much appreciated!

I would recommend taking a look at your upper strut mounts in your vehicle and also re-read my thread where I cover the 3rd row and non-3rd row strut mounts. Konis are only made for non-3rd row and only come in a longer strut length, to fit the longer strut I used the non-3rd row strut mounts which was fine by me since I deleted my 3rd row. In your case you could do the same as I did to fit the Konis but the damping may not be ideal for you when the 3rd row is used and there is additional weight over the rear axle, that's a question for Koni.

The KWs I have are P/N 35220091 I kept my rear air.

Originally Posted by Sam Lin

Thanks for all the detailed info in this thread. I'm following late in a lot of the same footsteps and it's saving me a ton of Google or trial and error.

You bet, glad it's useful.

[ucsbwsr]

Just rolled over 131,000 and since my last update in April I have averaged >26mpg over the past 5,000 miles, very respectable. Over the past 5 months the X5 has been a doing it's job facilitating work and play.

Mountain bike here

Mountain bike there

Mountain bike everywhere

Yakin' too


Finally got a strut for my cargo floor!



Got my manifold back with it's ceramic coating.



Pile-o-goodies. Oil, various filters, tie rods, and some window surrounds for the C/D pillar window. Also exhaust manifold studs, nuts, and gaskets.


New tire deflectors


New wheels mounted





Washy wahsy


Back to Work! Strapping and insulation for my garage ceiling. It will be R59!


Back to Play!

[ucsbwsr]

Driving home from a trailhead I was on a dirt road which had a lot of washboard surfaces. On the drive a small front end clunk became a front end bang-bang. When I got back onto paved roads the clunking continued so I knew something let go. When closer to home and stopped at a red light I did notice the smell of raw diesel which I thought was odd but I didn't think too much about it .....until I got home and noticed a trail of fuel in the driveway. lol

As it turns out the Phantom fuel system (which is like a small fuel filter) which was installed in-line near the OEM fuel filter had it's connection rattled loose and was leaking. For simplicity and reliability I removed the unit. This was originally installed since it is intended to "excite" the fuel and improve combustibility and therefore improve economy and performance. Hard to really extrapolate data to confirm that since there are so many variables in the mix but I figured with it now removed I can see if there are any noticeable differences.

I figured the clunking was from the Phantom fuel sysytem banging around since it was loose and was only secured with a couple zip ties. When removing the Phantom fuel system I also swapped in a fresh OEM fuel filter.

Better to have a fuel leak under the vehicle instead of the engine bay!


Phantom system which was removed


We replaced our utility sink with a dog wash for our good boi Oliver.


Dog-wash also = auto parts and wheel washer!


Going for a drive after addressing the fuel system it became very clear I did NOT resolve the clunking. Time to go back in...


rugh rough


RUGH ROUGH!!!



Found the problem! Sturt mounts had 40k on them but this damage was caused by an installation error ...by me. Turns out I didn't install the metal washer on the underside of the strut mount, therefore on the rubber was keeping the strut shaft from poking through, if the washer was installed it would bottom out on the strut mount and squish the foam rings. Whoops!!



I had some sturt mounts shipped from FCP and while I waited for them to arrive I took advantage of having the X5 in the garage and did some other maintenance.

Cabin (and recirc) filters


New passenger handle




Added some more sound deadening material (felt tape) to various locations on the dash to known creaky locations, back of Nav screen shown here.


The metal grills on my P3 vent gauge were once black but have become copper-ish from, I assume, UV. So it was refreshed with Plasti Dip.




On a side-note this style jack stand does well on the Swisstrax floor and doesn't deform or damage it.



Time for the long overdue leather cleaning. I previously used Leatherique on my wife's Q7 which has awesome Valcona leather and the results were awesome.

Q7 leather BEFORE


Q7 After



Shortly after coating all of the leather in Leatherique I realized I wasn't sure is Dakota was even real leather. As it turns out it's a real leather but has a coating on top which renders Leatherique not as effective. Thankfully my leather is perforated so the cleaner can penetrate there. I followed through with the procedure knowing it's unlikely the results would be as spectacular and in the end I am happy with the results but this really makes me want to track down an X5M interior with Merino leather. No doubt the Dakota is durable but I am not a fan of the way it feels, it reminds me of Crayons and plastic.

Anywho, back to pictures!


Here are BEFORE photos





Leatherique Rejuvinator applied. 2.5 coats and let it sit overnight.




Leatherique Pristine Clean applied and then leather was agitated with a horse-hair brush, wiped, and buffed. It's always a fun transformation to observe, notice how the leather has a nice matte finish.




Steering wheel stitching before


Stitching after


Wheel after. There is still some shiny-ness (dirt and grease) up top so I may reapply later but overall it's a dramatic change.


Bucket before cleaning driver seat and steering wheel


...After


Pokey pokey!




Rear seat During/After


AFTER



New strut mounts arrived. I couldn't find my OEM strut dust shields/washers and FCP/BMW wanted $35 per washer *pfft* get outta here, to the local yard I went for some recycling.


New strut mounts AND WASHERS installed, we're back in business.


Yea, that's some nice rubbing. You gotta pay the the 295/45/20 tax in order to enjoy the benefits of those cushy sidewalls.

[Aha]

I've tried to look for the fitting that you've used on the OCC but couldn't find one..
Can you give me some information about the 2 fitting that you used on the OCC?

Really confused about the size... Already failed buying different size

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by Aha

I've tried to look for the fitting that you've used on the OCC but couldn't find one..
Can you give me some information about the 2 fitting that you used on the OCC?

Really confused about the size... Already failed buying different size

If you are so kind to edit your post and remove all the photos you quoted I will dig up the info on the fittings for you. Also, there were more than 2 fittings used on the system, do you mind being specific on which ones you need help with?

[Aha]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

If you are so kind to edit your post and remove all the photos you quoted I will dig up the info on the fittings for you. Also, there were more than 2 fittings used on the system, do you mind being specific on which ones you need help with?

Sorry about messing up the board I just removed it.

I already purchased the 12an fittings for the pcv plate and the plastic hose.
I was just looking for the fitting that you plugged in to the oil separator.
I have purchased the same oil separator. The oil separator has two 1" wholes and since the 12an fitting for the pcv's uses 3/4.
And also using fitting like you looks way better too..

Thanks and sorry for my bad english!

[ucsbwsr]

Originally Posted by Aha

Sorry about messing up the board I just removed it.

I already purchased the 12an fittings for the pcv plate and the plastic hose.
I was just looking for the fitting that you plugged in to the oil separator.
I have purchased the same oil separator. The oil separator has two 1" wholes and since the 12an fitting for the pcv's uses 3/4.
And also using fitting like you looks way better too..

Thanks and sorry for my bad english!

It took me a while to dig this up but I found it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191856804642

Also, you are Korean? I used to live there in 2010/2011 when I played volleyball for Korean Air. I love that place!
Evan

[Aha]

Originally Posted by ucsbwsr

It took me a while to dig this up but I found it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191856804642

Also, you are Korean? I used to live there in 2010/2011 when I played volleyball for Korean Air. I love that place!
Evan

OMG Thank you so much!
Yes I am Korean
Oh wow Glad you liked it in Korea! I miss Korea too Q__Q

[wcs531]

Originally Posted by Aha

I've tried to look for the fitting that you've used on the OCC but couldn't find one..
Can you give me some information about the 2 fitting that you used on the OCC?

Really confused about the size... Already failed buying different size

Just fyi I have read that catch cans can cause more harm than good in other forums (specifically the Facebook group "North American BMW Diesel Owners"). I think it was related to excess crank case pressure even with a high flow catch can like a Provent and large tubing.

ucsbwsr Last I remember you took the OCC off - Is it still off and if so any findings one way or the other?