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      04-17-2020, 10:25 PM   #23
Entr0py
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagniappe_718 View Post
Mmm 1700 and change I think. I can try again to double check. Ya I’m still leaning towards something like a fuse or relay that failed.
I've been thinking about a JB4 for my N63 for 3 years now.
How much did you save buying a used one, (would you do it again?)

It's been 9 days since your last post, (I assume you fixed the problem?)
So what was it ??
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      04-18-2020, 08:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entr0py View Post
I've been thinking about a JB4 for my N63 for 3 years now.
How much did you save buying a used one, (would you do it again?)

It's been 9 days since your last post, (I assume you fixed the problem?)
So what was it ??
All signs point to fried DME, or at least components of it. Talked to a few people smarter than me and that was the general consensus. I've sourced a donor and will have to have mine cloned. Still unsure of the root cause...could be user error on install, could be something in the jb4/bcm, could be something else.

Sending the dme off for cloning next week. Will probably hook up the jb4 with just tmap and can wires after because i'm stubborn like that. if it's not happy like that, I'll just have it flashed...which at this point I should've done to begin with. Would have been cheaper. I paid 450 for the used unit. I'd do it again because Burger doesn't offer official support for the s63, so it's a gamble either way.

Last edited by lagniappe_718; 04-18-2020 at 09:56 PM..
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      05-24-2020, 11:31 AM   #25
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Well, took me longer than expected to get dmes shipped off and cloned, but I got both back and still have crank/no start. Only one code...U0100 - Lost communication with ecm. Really hoping i just dont have something connected, or a fuse fried...but it's getting to a point where I don't want to deal with it and will probably have to tow it to a shop.
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      05-26-2020, 10:54 AM   #26
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Update 2: realized battery was pretty low, talked to the guy who did the clone and he said that could cause problems and has seen that in the past. It's been on the charger since last night so we'll see what happens this afternoon. Has anyone ever had crank/no start or DME problems with a low or bad battery?
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      05-27-2020, 01:34 PM   #27
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Update 3: After a good overnight charge, still cranks and no start but I at least have comms with the dme. i'm still getting almost the same set of code prior to the dme clone though. I'm wondering if this is a relay problem... I'm getting codes 2E63 and 2E64 for 'Load Shedding Relay for ignition and fuel injection system'. Somewhat makes sense to me that if the relay failed, no power would be going to the injector harness -> no fuel -> no start -> various other dme codes.

Has anyone else had relay issues? does this logic make sense? My DME guy said it could also be an issue with the actual cloning, and to send both DMEs back to him and we would reclone with different software. Trying to get to the simplest solution
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      06-05-2020, 04:23 PM   #28
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Resolution update: sent both dmes back to my guy, he recloned with different program and updated the software on the donor dme. Got both back, still no start. No codes, just won’t start. Just as I’m about to call my preferred shop to have it towed in, I think ‘ah what the hell’ and slap in the original dme just to see what happens....fires right up. Wtf. Not complaining, just baffled. Drive around the neighborhood and it develops a slight misfire. Throw the scanner on, no codes but cylinder 7 is showing misfires. I’ve been there before, so I run up to Advance auto and they have a cool pack in stock. Toss it in and now it’s running perfectly...no codes, nothing, On the original dme that was perceived toast.

So now I have a spare dme and a jb4 I won’t go near. At least it wasn’t injectors or hpfp.
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      09-03-2020, 09:01 PM   #29
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Good thing you got it running. I'd toss/return the AutoZone coil and replace all 8 from FCP...one is iffy so the others are likely close behind.

As for the misfire post JB4, my only suggestions are two step colder plugs like in my sig and adjusting the FOL in the JB4 to 90.

Last edited by m5james; 09-03-2020 at 09:44 PM..
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      09-03-2020, 09:30 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by m5james View Post
Good thing you got it running. I'd toss/return the AutoZone cool and replace all 8 from FCP...one is iffy so the others are likely close behind.

As for the misfire post JB4, my only suggestions are two step colder plugs like in my sig and adjusting the FOL in the JB4 to 90.
At least it was a Bosch coil. I've since had another go out. That makes 3 in under 5k miles. Probably going to do all 8 and plugs here soon. Then may roll the dice on the jb4 again.
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      09-03-2020, 09:48 PM   #31
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Little something I stole from another forum years back.
I got my coils from FCP, admittedly they weren't the best fit, but I've had them for a few years now I'm guessing and I haven't had an issue since.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's
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