X5m - Lots of Smoke and Misfire

[AnotherArchitect]

Hello Everyone,

I hope you're all staying safe in these dire times.

So here's the deal, the car had been "parked" for the past 2 months or so since we're on lock down in my area. A few days ago I started the car to get the fluids flowing and all. I drove it in front of the house for a little bit, gave it a hard Rev here and there.

Now, smoke is coming out the back in unbelievable amounts (white smoke, so fair to assume it's oil) and the dreaded "reduced power" error shoots up on the screen.

What I have done so far:

Did an oil change with the filter (it only had around 2000km of use on the oil)
Replaced all spark plugs (3 were banged up while 5 were in good condition)
Started up the car. Ran very well. Smoke still visible but in less amounts (even after running it for a while).

Drove the car around a little more, stepped on it a few times. Nothing. Got to a U turn, slowed down, stepped on the gas slightly, reduced power engine shows up again.
This time the car can barely go.

Read the errors. Cylinder 3 misfire.

Checked the spark plug on cylinder 3, seemed fine. Switched the coils from 2 to 3. Misfire still on 3.

Fuel injector?.. A friend had a new one in his shop, took out the old one. Had a considerable amount of gunk on it. Replaced with the new one.

Car ran fine for a day (no "stepping on it")

Next day, engine light comes on. No limp mode. Cleared the catalytic converter error, ran fine. Stepped on it a little. White smoke increased even more and reduced power is back on.

I think CCV is up for a change.

Is there anything else I should be looking into?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Sounds like your on the right track with the CCV system and great place to start. I would do all new plugs too, if a couple were shady, the rest are soon to follow. Coils would be next. N63/S63's are very sensitive with the CCV system and any vacuum leaks will cause misfires and if they have more then 80k miles on them, smoke at the tail pipe due to the lack of any CCV vacuum allowing even more oil to sneak pass the worn valve guide seals.

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Sounds like your on the right track with the CCV system and great place to start. I would do all new plugs too, if a couple were shady, the rest are soon to follow. Coils would be next. N63/S63's are very sensitive with the CCV system and any vacuum leaks will cause misfires and if they have more then 80k miles on them, smoke at the tail pipe due to the lack of any CCV vacuum allowing even more oil to sneak pass the worn valve guide seals.

Boy am I glad to read this!

I did replace all plugs! coils seem to work fine, for now. However, I will most definitely change them out soon.

I was worried I'd have to go into a valve stem seals outbreak (which I do plan on doing..just..not now.... it's insanely hot outside and summer hasn't even started!)...

Up next would be to replace all injectors, but for now, they seem to be fine (except the one on cylinder 3 for some reason)...

Any other tips?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect

Boy am I glad to read this!

I did replace all plugs! coils seem to work fine, for now. However, I will most definitely change them out soon.

I was worried I'd have to go into a valve stem seals outbreak (which I do plan on doing..just..not now.... it's insanely hot outside and summer hasn't even started!)...

Up next would be to replace all injectors, but for now, they seem to be fine (except the one on cylinder 3 for some reason)...

Any other tips?

I hear you on the heat! I would do th CCV system and coils right away, after that injectors are next. You can do an injector test with ISTA loaded on your laptop so I would run that to narrow it down if you still have misfires after doing the CCV and coils.

If you still have white smoke and burning oil, either valve guide seals are completely shot or possible clogged turbo oil return lines. Easy way to check for that is to look in your Intercoolers for oil residue. When mine clogged the intercoolers where coated in oil.

Also how old are your oxygen sensors? A funky oxygen sensor can cause all kinds of problems. If they are orginal, I would consider replacing the two Pre-cat oxygen sensors.

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I hear you on the heat! I would do th CCV system and coils right away, after that injectors are next. You can do an injector test with ISTA loaded on your laptop so I would run that to narrow it down if you still have misfires after doing the CCV and coils.

If you still have white smoke and burning oil, either valve guide seals are completely shot or possible clogged turbo oil return lines. Easy way to check for that is to look in your Intercoolers for oil residue. When mine clogged the intercoolers where coated in oil.

Also how old are your oxygen sensors? A funky oxygen sensor can cause all kinds of problems. If they are orginal, I would consider replacing the two Pre-cat oxygen sensors.

I'll check the injectors after the CCV change. Might have some coils around somewhere; need to check! (although from my last check-up after changing the injector on cylinder 3, the readings seemed consistent across the board)

That intercooler tip for the turbo return lines is def OG. I honestly didn't think of that. Will check later tonight.

As for the O2 sensors, yes they are originals, but I'm planning to install RM downpipes soon; which means they'll be gone anyway.

Let's hope it all works out!

Will keep the thread updated.

And seriously, Thank you for the tips!

Stay Safe

[BigHunk]

Injectors very likely, aren't they covered under emissions warranty 10 years or 120000 miles in USA?
Here in Canada injectors were under recall.

[TwinSnailz]

Isn’t it.....
White smoke = water, coolant
Blue smoke = oil
Black smoke = rich fuel
Green smoke = money draining

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect

I'll check the injectors after the CCV change. Might have some coils around somewhere; need to check! (although from my last check-up after changing the injector on cylinder 3, the readings seemed consistent across the board)

That intercooler tip for the turbo return lines is def OG. I honestly didn't think of that. Will check later tonight.

As for the O2 sensors, yes they are originals, but I'm planning to install RM downpipes soon; which means they'll be gone anyway.

Let's hope it all works out!

Will keep the thread updated.

And seriously, Thank you for the tips!

Stay Safe

No problem happy to help you should still need the two Pre-cat o2 sensors r
Though even with downpipes as these are what the DME uses to determine the air/fuel mixture. I personally think they are more critical then plugs and coils as a funky 02, sensor can give false readings and cause the engine to run rich/lean. Running rich is no biggie but running lean is especially dangerous on boosted engines. So I would highly recommend replacing the two pre-cat sensors.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

Isn’t it.....
White smoke = water, coolant
Blue smoke = oil
Black smoke = rich fuel
Green smoke = money draining

That's what I always used to think until I owned this engine....when the turbo lines plugged and the CCV system was shot on mine, so much white smoke came out the exhaust I thought for sure I blew a head gasket or cracked head. I was both relieved and shocked when it was just the turbo lines. With turbo engines, when mass quantities of oil gets injected into the intake from the turbos because of blocked lines, the smoke is white for whatever reason.

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

That's what I always used to think until I owned this engine....when the turbo lines plugged and the CCV system was shot on mine, so much white smoke came out the exhaust I thought for sure I blew a head gasket or cracked head. I was both relieved and shocked when it was just the turbo lines. With turbo engines, when mass quantities of oil gets injected into the intake from the turbos because of blocked lines, the smoke is white for whatever reason.

I think the smoke is white due to the temperature at which the oil is being burned - can't recall if it's due to high or low temp burning. It's late and I could be totally off base but I remember reading something to that effect a while back.

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by BigHunk

Injectors very likely, aren't they covered under emissions warranty 10 years or 120000 miles in USA?
Here in Canada injectors were under recall.

I checked all injectors, they're #11 on all so I'm guessing they were changed previously.

Seeing that I live in KSA, I'm sure the recalls aren't part of the local BMW dealer's plans

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

Isn’t it.....
White smoke = water, coolant
Blue smoke = oil
Black smoke = rich fuel
Green smoke = money draining

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

No problem happy to help you should still need the two Pre-cat o2 sensors r
Though even with downpipes as these are what the DME uses to determine the air/fuel mixture. I personally think they are more critical then plugs and coils as a funky 02, sensor can give false readings and cause the engine to run rich/lean. Running rich is no biggie but running lean is especially dangerous on boosted engines. So I would highly recommend replacing the two pre-cat sensors.

I guess you're right. I'll get to it right after the short holiday here. We're going through stages of reopening on the 30th of May. So, I'll have to wait another 10 days

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by pdX5M

I think the smoke is white due to the temperature at which the oil is being burned - can't recall if it's due to high or low temp burning. It's late and I could be totally off base but I remember reading something to that effect a while back.

I did a quick test earlier to see at what temp is the smoke coming out. It started in small amounts on the low temp, but, kept building up until it reached the higher temps. I just turned the car off and now waiting for the parts to be delivered before I get to work on it again.

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect

I did a quick test earlier to see at what temp is the smoke coming out. It started in small amounts on the low temp, but, kept building up until it reached the higher temps. I just turned the car off and now waiting for the parts to be delivered before I get to work on it again.

Didn't necessarily mean the temp showing on your oil/coolant gauge but rather the temperature of the surface burning the oil depending where the oil is coming from - CCV system, turbo, piston rings, etc.

[AnotherArchitect]

Welp... CCV didn't do anything to help with the smoke and misfire continues. Pulled the trigger on further deep inspection of the engine. Should be disassembled by Monday. We'll know by then... Assuming another 1-2k $ job. I'm not too pissed because this way I can renew any other items along the way (including valve stem seals).

Will update on the matter ASAP.

[AnotherArchitect]

Update:

Engine has been pulled out, both banks are almost completely disassembled.

All seals seem to be worn out, coolant pipes running to the back side of the engine are completely worn out (couldn't see that one prior to disassembly). Turbos seem fine, a bit of oil on the outer edge, nothing else other than that. Still haven't gotten to the pistons and heads yet. It should make things much clearer then. Hopefully by tomorrow.

As of now, it seems all seals will have to be replaced. Let's see what tomorrow brings.

Cheers

[AnotherArchitect]

Broken piston... *Sigh*

[Thecastle]

Sorry to hear it. Is the cylinder bore scored?

[AnotherArchitect]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Sorry to hear it. Is the cylinder bore scored?

fortunately no. The rings around it held it together well + the crack was actually small.

The good news is, I found the exact piston for the exact cylinder, brand new at my local parts shop. Was a really nice guy and old it to me at 30% discount (in comparison to online prices). So I got that going for me.

As far as going through the rest of the engine, I've replaced almost all seals (along with valve stem seals), a bunch of pipes as well. The Transmission mount was kind of worn so we replaced that as well.

So parts and labour will cost a little over 1800$ in total. which isn't too bad.

[AnotherArchitect]

Quick update:

New piston is in. Was way overcharged, but I had to pull the trigger. Ordering one would take over 30 days to arrive (stupid Corona)...the one from my local shop didn't fit; apparently mislabeled.

Cleaning everything up as we go. Injectors seem fine. Coils were tested and seem stable. Rod bearings are like brand new.

Doing some ecu tuning after the break-in.

[Dawgz]

While you were in there might as well have used upgraded rods