XRatedM's Alpine White E70 X5M

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

I installed the springs, sensors rods, and dinan bump stops. The rear is spot on ~7/8", the fronts only lowered ~3/8"...I figured ride height calibration and settling would solve that...we'll see. I did have my springs sitting around for a couple years before install.

Were you fronts already dropped to match the rears upon install?

I'm guessing the upper control arm may need to be realigned?

I'm still in the process, I haven't completed the fronts yet. Hoping to have it squared this week hopefully.

DINAN recommends to have the suspension realigned after the settling period. I'll follow their recommended wheel alignment settings and loosen and retorque everything in about a month.

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

I'm guessing the upper control arm may need to be realigned?

UH, I hope not, both of them equally off? How do you adjust the upper control arm? BTW, you probably don't need it, but I have a full Dinan Spring DIY nearly complete, just waiting to see what the Tech does for ride ht cal.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

UH, I hope not, both of them equally off? How do you adjust the upper control arm? BTW, you probably don't need it, but I have a full Dinan Spring DIY nearly complete, just waiting to see what the Tech does for ride ht cal.

ISTA+ calls for determining a normal position for upper control arm/wishbone prior. So I'm assuming your controls arms may be set to the stock springs' setting but I doubt it'd play a role in terms of height but would certainly affect how the truck rides.

[argento]

THANKS for that...the ISTA printout I acquired didn't have that "ATTENTION!" note. Looks like you're set with all you need as far as instructions.

I didn't see how the height could be adjusted (at least not mechanically) since the arm is free to swing vertically...going to see if I caught something in the pix...

[argento]

Pix reveal the swivel joints are fixed. I don't think it's mechanically adjustable, more likely the satellites in the shocks are used to adjust the ride height to the measured dimension in the image above. Hence the ride height calibration? Wish I was more certain, but it's why I took it into the shop and planned to get the tech to explain it to me so I can record in my DIY....

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Pix reveal the swivel joints are fixed. I don't think it's mechanically adjustable, more likely the satellites in the shocks are used to adjust the ride height to the measured dimension in the image above. Hence the ride height calibration? Wish I was more certain, but it's why I took it into the shop and planned to get the tech to explain it to me so I can record in my DIY....

Yeah, I don't think upper wishbone is for any sort of adjustment - the only thing I would point out is that the wishbone needs to be set at normal position (under load), otherwise the bushings will prematurely wear out.

In terms of the height calibration - I know it can be done through ISTA+ and it's only for the rears.

DINAN instructions also had certain wheel alignment parameters - I'm sure you have them too but throwing them in there for reference.

[argento]

Which tool did you use to remove the strut nut? I used (A) and it was painful. On my older M3's I used something like (B) and it was much easier...

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Which tool did you use to remove the strut nut? I used (A) and it was painful. On my older M3's I used something like (B) and it was much easier...

Attachment 2675216

I used B and driver's side was much easier with an impact wrench but for passenger side I had to use an angled wrench with a hex key, and oh boy it was a pain!! Lol

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Which tool did you use to remove the strut nut? I used (A) and it was painful. On my older M3's I used something like (B) and it was much easier...

Attachment 2675216

And my stupidity - I didn't have deep sockets, so I ordered and waited 2 days for them to be delivered, driver's side was easy to get through, then the passenger side shaft would spin with the deep socket, so I had to order angled wrench set and wait another 2 days! Lol

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

And my stupidity - I didn't have deep sockets, so I ordered and waited 2 days for them to be delivered, driver's side was easy to get through, then the passenger side shaft would spin with the deep socket, so I had to order angled wrench set and wait another 2 days! Lol

Been there! I ordered socket B the day I finished reassembling the struts...in case I had to do this again, lol.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Been there! I ordered socket B the day I finished reassembling the struts...in case I had to do this again, lol.

Always a good idea to have extra tools - by the way, how is your audio upgrades coming along? I have the individual audio (S572A) and doesn't sound amaaazing so I was planning to get full upgrade kit from BimmerTech (AlphaOne series) - something you looked into?

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Always a good idea to have extra tools - by the way, how is your audio upgrades coming along? I have the individual audio (S572A) and doesn't sound amaaazing so I was planning to get full upgrade kit from BimmerTech (AlphaOne series) - something you looked into?

That is a research intensive project, at least for my understanding. Having the S752A is a great start and probably sounded amazing new...However one critical find that I think is very relevant is that the capacitors/filters in our audio systems degrade over time. I ordered a used OEM crossover on ebay and measured the capacitance and it was sky high. This was true of inline filter/capacitors as well. This effectively moves the crossover points and the audio is no longer matched to the speakers. It takes years, but our cars aren't getting newer.

Given that a new speaker system with it's own crossovers and/or filters is usually a win. I've not heard the AlphaOnes.

I upgraded the center dash with B&W (midrange and tweeter w/filter) and it's a tangible improvement over the oem S752A coaxial in the center dash. With it installed you can tangibly hear the improvement of the center dash sound over the doors. For many, doing this alone is a nice little improvement, IMO. I also upgraded the DPillars to B&W.

But I kept going...now I have all new custom matched crossovers to B&W mids and tweets. Suspension, Exhaust, and Brake work have budget priority. But I recently bought the equipment for the pigtails (oem equivalent MQS contact pins and bushings, UP-OCC wiring, oem connectors, etc.)...aren't you glad you asked??? LOL


HEY, did you check your ground straps near the exhaust since you were back there? Mine were already frosted/oxidized...going to swap them out preventive maint...

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

That is a research intensive project, at least for my understanding. Having the S752A is a great start and probably sounded amazing new...However one critical find that I think is very relevant is that the capacitors/filters in our audio systems degrade over time. I ordered a used OEM crossover on ebay and measured the capacitance and it was sky high. This was true of inline filter/capacitors as well. This effectively moves the crossover points and the audio is no longer matched to the speakers. It takes years, but our cars aren't getting newer.

Given that a new speaker system with it's own crossovers and/or filters is usually a win. I've not heard the AlphaOnes.

I upgraded the center dash with B&W (midrange and tweeter w/filter) and it's a tangible improvement over the oem S752A coaxial in the center dash. With it installed you can tangibly hear the improvement of the center dash sound over the doors. For many, doing this alone is a nice little improvement, IMO. I also upgraded the DPillars to B&W.

But I kept going...now I have all new custom matched crossovers to B&W mids and tweets. Suspension, Exhaust, and Brake work have budget priority. But I recently bought the equipment for the pigtails (oem equivalent MQS contact pins and bushings, UP-OCC wiring, oem connectors, etc.)...aren't you glad you asked??? LOL


HEY, did you check your ground straps near the exhaust since you were back there? Mine were already frosted/oxidized...going to swap them out preventive maint...

I actually am glad that I asked, I was looking to throw $1500 on AlphaOne setup (2 subs, 7 midrange and 7 tweeters) but I'd look into the capacitors - sound right now is worse than my 330i H&K system. So either subwoofer upgrade or the whole thing.

Mine was a Chicago daily driver, so it's seen a lot of salt and snow - a lot of surface rust - I plan on getting a treatment done after I have sorted all the other little issues. Where are ground straps? I didn't notice any while looking around.

I know you haven't had to do anything to the turbos but I received rebuilt one with a leather like gasket for oil return line and the OEMs one I bought are metal, so I'm not sure which ones better between the two.

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

I actually am glad that I asked, I was looking to throw $1500 on AlphaOne setup (2 subs, 7 midrange and 7 tweeters) but I'd look into the capacitors - sound right now is worse than my 330i H&K system. So either subwoofer upgrade or the whole thing.

Mine was a Chicago daily driver, so it's seen a lot of salt and snow - a lot of surface rust - I plan on getting a treatment done after I have sorted all the other little issues. Where are ground straps? I didn't notice any while looking around.

I know you haven't had to do anything to the turbos but I received rebuilt one with a leather like gasket for oil return line and the OEMs one I bought are metal, so I'm not sure which ones better between the two.

When I get my car back I'll take a pic of the strap.


Let me add details...the dpillar and rear door tweeters have inline filters. So you just need to make sure the Alpha setup comes with inline filters..which I think they do. The front doors have a separate crossover component (referred to by bmw as Diplexers). The source plugs into the diplexer and sends appropriately filtered audio to the midrange and tweeter. Just check if the Alpha system front doors also come with a filter or crossover setup...I would be surprised if they didn't....

So if all goes well, the Alpha system would bypass the oem capacitors/filters and you'd be good...and likely much less expensive than my path...

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

When I get my car back I'll take a pic of the strap.


Let me add details...the dpillar and rear door tweeters have inline filters. So you just need to make sure the Alpha setup comes with inline filters..which I think they do. The front doors have a separate crossover component (referred to by bmw as Diplexers). The source plugs into the diplexer and sends appropriately filtered audio to the midrange and tweeter. Just check if the Alpha system front doors also come with a filter or crossover setup...I would be surprised if they didn't....

So if all goes well, the Alpha system would bypass the oem capacitors/filters and you'd be good...and likely much less expensive than my path...

I just checked on mine (right around the rear differential) and the strap is oxidized and broken. I'll order a replacement right now and fix with the rear suspension stuff - THANK YOU! What does it really help with though?

And I saw oil residue around my differential that leads me to believe that it's leaking.

Yes, the Alpha system does come with inline cross-overs.

[argento]

There's one located near the exhaust and another near the transmission. I've heard horror stories about broken ground straps causing all sorts of electrical issues. However, it doesn't sound like you have any ill affects from a broken one…I hope I'm not steering you the wrong way, but it's not too expensive to replace…

[argento]

From the internet:

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

There's one located near the exhaust and another near the transmission. I've heard horror stories about broken ground straps causing all sorts of electrical issues. However, it doesn't sound like you have any ill affects from a broken one…I hope I'm not steering you the wrong way, but it's not too expensive to replace…

I found one that's near the front of the differential (towards the engine/transmission) and I have an aftermarket exhaust, so none near the exhaust hanger. I don't know if I should put one there.

Only electrical issue I have is my comfort access goes crazy, locking and unlocking non-stop! Lol but that I think may be related to one the door handles being short but I haven't really looked into it as such.

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

I found one that's near the front of the differential (towards the engine/transmission) and I have an aftermarket exhaust, so none near the exhaust hanger. I don't know if I should put one there.

Only electrical issue I have is my comfort access goes crazy, locking and unlocking non-stop! Lol but that I think may be related to one the door handles being short but I haven't really looked into it as such.

Then..if it's not broke...

I'm about to add an aftermarket exhaust, guess I'll cross that bridge soon....

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Then..if it's not broke...

I'm about to add an aftermarket exhaust, guess I'll cross that bridge soon....

I ordered a replacement - so hoping it to be straightforward *fingers crossed*

What exhaust did you get? Sounds exciting!

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

I ordered a replacement - so hoping it to be straightforward *fingers crossed*

What exhaust did you get? Sounds exciting!

I snagged the NIB Akrapovic Muffler that showed up on the forums a few weeks back. Missing tips and clamps. Did some research and started ordering parts: Titanium 3" pipe for install, 316 Stainless Butt Joints w/Bumax 88 fasteners from Mcmaster-Carr, Stainless 304 Torca Accu-Seal Clamps (hard to find, most offer stainless 430), Exhaust Flap hose (oem and mcmaster) for routing to Akra flaps, Akra polished Ti Exhaust Tips (from forum member), and have some fake Arka CF Tips on hand. And as you pointed out...If I want to keep the ground cable, I planned to buy a cable clamp (and fasteners) that fits around the Akra hanger....but Titanium is a very low conductor...considering...

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

I snagged the NIB Akrapovic Muffler that showed up on the forums a few weeks back. Missing tips and clamps. Did some research and started ordering parts: Titanium 3" pipe for install, 316 Stainless Butt Joints w/Bumax 88 fasteners from Mcmaster-Carr, Stainless 304 Torca Accu-Seal Clamps (hard to find, most offer stainless 430), Exhaust Flap hose (oem and mcmaster) for routing to Akra flaps, Akra polished Ti Exhaust Tips (from forum member), and have some fake Arka CF Tips on hand. And as you pointed out...If I want to keep the ground cable, I planned to buy a cable clamp (and fasteners) that fits around the Akra hanger....but Titanium is a very low conductor...considering...

Oh man, lucky you!! and I love the attention to detail, that's OG spec stuff!

I on the other hand keep running into problem after problem, it was meant to be our family truck but now looking into buying a 4runner for baby duties and X5 becomes my project truck! Lol

I'll hopefully button up the suspension and get to putting everything back together after getting the manifold and downpipes ceramic coated.