XRatedM's Alpine White E70 X5M

[XRatedM]

Quick update on the strut situation - some expensive lessons and workarounds,

I initially did not want to go through the entire process of strut removal to fix spring shims until I broke something Haha - while trying to mess around opening it without removal, I cracked/broke strut shaft star key that's there to help hold down the shaft from spinning. So I had put painter tape on the shaft and held it down with wise grips - that did the trick.

Yes, I know bolt threads are dirty - that was probably one of the reasons "Lesson Learned"





Messed around with it for over a week and I ended up removing the strut and used spring compressors to fix the orientation of spring shims and the spring itself.



Spring shim appears de-shaped because it's been on the truck for a couple of months (I drove once a week for the most part)









I couldn't loosen or tighten the strut shaft bolt because the darn thing won't stop spinning and I did not want to get a replacement. So I ended using painters tape and wise grips to hold it down and an impact wrench to tighten it.





And finally it's been installed and torqued down to spec.

[XRatedM]

While I had the truck on jack stands - I also re-adjusted the rear height links, will see how it affects the rear height when it's off of jack stands.

Will replace spacers as well - so 13.5mm and 15mm spacers for sale

Repainted the calipers to Phoenix Yellow Metallic - it was a rough project, didn't have time to go into details because brakes aren't due for service anytime soon.

Process followed;

Step 1: Cleaned with brake cleaner and wire brush
Step 2: Scuffed with 3M red pad
Step 3: Sanded it down with 400 grit sandpaper
Step 4: Wiped it down with isopropyl
Step 5: 3 coats of white VHT primer (15 mins between each coat)
Step 6: Light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper
Step 7: Wash with water/isopropyl mix
Step 8: Wipe down with isopropyl
Step 9: 4 coats of paint (15-20 between each coat)
Step 10: Waited 2 hours for the paint to dry (it was 50 degrees here)
Step 10: Applied the M decal
Step 11: 3 coats of VHT clear (15 mins between each coat)

And phew!! done!

[argento]

Wow! Outstanding! Those are some cleanly painted calipers.

You keeping the same spacer sizes? I have an excel spreadsheet analysis that spits out spacer sizes based on wheels and tires selected specifically for the E70 with M arches. The one variable that is hard to nail down is the ACTUAL tire width, but the specs provided by the MFG make it close. In that spreadsheet "flush" is a straight edge from the bottom of the tire, aligned to the center cap, to the top of the tire and the straight edge aligned to the outer edge of the arch. I'll send it to you, maybe you can tell me if it's useful or not.

And thanks for the suspension pix above. I think I also mis-coded my upper spring pads, going to reorient them this weekend. I plan to use my DIY and confirm everything I wrote...at least for the front axle. I'm already making changes to the checklist to add the tools needed in yellow highlight. Now I can pull all my tools quickly based solely on the checklist.

Thanks for sharing your work, your M is looking AMAZING.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

Wow! Outstanding! Those are some cleanly painted calipers.

You keeping the same spacer sizes? I have an excel spreadsheet analysis that spits out spacer sizes based on wheels and tires selected specifically for the E70 with M arches. The one variable that is hard to nail down is the ACTUAL tire width, but the specs provided by the MFG make it close. In that spreadsheet "flush" is a straight edge from the bottom of the tire, aligned to the center cap, to the top of the tire and the straight edge aligned to the outer edge of the arch. I'll send it to you, maybe you can tell me if it's useful or not.

And thanks for the suspension pix above. I think I also mis-coded my upper spring pads, going to reorient them this weekend. I plan to use my DIY and confirm everything I wrote...at least for the front axle. I'm already making changes to the checklist to add the tools needed in yellow highlight. Now I can pull all my tools quickly based solely on the checklist.

Thanks for sharing your work, your M is looking AMAZING.

Thank you!! I currently have 13mm Fronts and 15mm rears, changing them to 18mm front and 25mm bolt on rears, hoping to have it more flush than it currently is and that might make the drop a tad more noticeable. Yeah, I'd love to look at the spreadsheet.

No worries, cracking the shaft was a nightmare but I'm glad I was able to sort it.

Good luck, you don't need to disassemble the strut - spring compressors did the trick.

Another thing is, when you align one of the strut mount bolts to the seating pin, upper spring shim nib should align with EDC module (or whatever that's call :$) on the strut, that module faces the direction of travel for both sides.

[argento]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Good luck, you don't need to disassemble the strut - spring compressors did the trick.

This! Thanks

[///SY33]

Originally Posted by XRatedM

Thank you!! I currently have 13mm Fronts and 15mm rears, changing them to 18mm front and 25mm bolt on rears, hoping to have it more flush than it currently is and that might make the drop a tad more noticeable. Yeah, I'd love to look at the spreadsheet.
(FL/FR).

Love the way these came out. It's going to contrast really nicely with the wheels. Have you ordered the 25mm spacers yet? I finally lowered the truck and decided to go 30mm in the rear so I have the 25mm up for grabs if you need them.

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by ///SY33

Love the way these came out. It's going to contrast really nicely with the wheels. Have you ordered the 25mm spacers yet? I finally lowered the truck and decided to go 30mm in the rear so I have the 25mm up for grabs if you need them.

Oh man! Wish i had known. I ordered already! Should get them tomorrow.

I just got done cleaning and coating the wheels.

[///SY33]

Haha all good. Looking forward to the pictures when you're done!

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by ///SY33

Haha all good. Looking forward to the pictures when you're done!

Turned out great, I think. It's in dire need of a detail (coming up soon haha)

Spring issue helped - it drives so much better, steering feels a lot lighter.

Still waiting on rear spacers though, so rocking 15mm for now - changed the fronts to 17.5mm.

[TMM67]

Looks great!!

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by TMM67

Looks great!!

Thank you!

[Texmexm5]

nice dude!! where you get the rotors at? got the same one lol

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by Texmexm5

nice dude!! where you get the rotors at? got the same one lol

They're Brakenetics rotors and I bought it with them.

Sweet lookin ride!

[XRatedM]

It's been a minute since I posted.

The culprit for front passenger side clunk turned out to be the thrust arm/tension strut, even though I had bought it new and replaced it couple of months ago - maybe a defective unit.







Hammered the heck out of the poor thing!

[argento]

How did you figure out that was the problem, esp. after installing a new one earlier?

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by argento

How did you figure out that was the problem, esp. after installing a new one earlier?

I checked all suspension components and re-torqued everything but the clunk still existed at the lower end (and it sounds like a metal to metal clunk). Even though I replaced the thrust arm and the noise went away for a day, it's back now.

So I'm not really sure what it could be. I'll be replacing stabilizing bar bushings soon and hope that might be the issue (the noise is at the passenger side lower end) and it sometimes is from the front lower end - that points to the stabilizing bar but let's see! Lol

[XRatedM]

Also, I re-routed the Oil Catch Can hoses and removed all the check valves because the catch cans weren't catching anything.

Here's the setup I revised to but instantly regretted it.

Removed all check vales.
Connected the catch can between intake duct and oil separator - In from Oil Separated (on the valve cover) and out to the intake boot/duct.
Connected Bank 1 and Bank 2 intake manifold lines without any check valves.

Outcome: MAF sensor went nuts, it probably couldn't read A/F mixture right and ran it so rich that I could smell fuel from the oil filler cap.

Re-did the lines and added the check valves back and everything went back to normal.

There are 4 check valves:
1. Bank 1 intake - Can only suck from oil separator to intake.
2. Bank 2 intake - Can only suck from oil separator to intake.
3. Bank 1 intake manifold - can only suck.
4. Bank 2 intake manifold - can only suck.

My bank 2 check valve was bad for the longest time (even the brand new replacement one was bad). My truck hasn't idled as smooth as it does now for the entirety of my ownership Lol

It still smokes after a long idle, I'm not completely sold on it being valve stem seals because it doesn't smoke at cold start - it could potentially be the injectors on their way out.

[Bowchow]

Mind sharing the source for the caliper decals?

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by Bowchow

Mind sharing the source for the caliper decals?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FFW6PTX...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[XRatedM]

I will soon be replacing stabilizer bar bushings for front and rear.

Replaced style 299m wheels with style 611m.

[///SY33]

Damn that looks good!

[XRatedM]

Originally Posted by ///SY33

Damn that looks good!

Thank you!