08-04-2018, 10:56 AM | #2 |
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You won't find an easier vehicle....
Loosen the oil filler cap, remove drain plug located next to the oil filter underneath (make sure its the oil pan)....remove filter, change o rings...replace...tighten/torque, top-up, job done..15 mins. Off the top of my head its 22 inch pounds on the drain plug using a 8mm hex unless its been changed to an aftermarket plug. I have a detailed step by step...will look for it and post... What oil are you using...not all 5W30 synthetics can go in...so Costco is out as its not HTHS 5W30 ACEA A3/B3-4) or ACEA C3... Edit...found the step by step...which was pulled from the net (turns out here on Xbimmers)...https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=914556 Link has the pics still... Difficulty: 1/10 Ultra easy if you can put gas in your car and can turn a wrench you can do this. Tools: 18mm Hex bit Socket...(think you will find this is 7mm) 86mm 16 flute oil filter wrench. Torque Wrench 9 bottles of oil 1 oil filter kit. First Things First. Drive your car for a bit until your oil temp gauge is at least at the first dot. If you need to ask how to do this stop and go to the dealer. Next get your car on some ramps, like so: Now go under your car, be careful of hot components. And locate where you see something like this: Should be at the front of the car maybe 2 feet back from the bumper. If you cant find this stop right here and go to the dealer. The bolt inside the blue circle if the drain bolt (18mm hex) The black cylinder looking thing inside the red circle is the oil filter housing. Closeup of oil filter housing Get whatever you are going to catch your oil in and remove the drain bolt. Oil should start pouring out. After it slows down remove the oil filter housing (86mm 16 flute) there will be some oil in the housing so be careful try to catch as much of it as possible. The oil filter is "snapped" into the housing. Just pry up it will come off eventually. Now clean the inside of the housing out. Use a papertowl or whatever you want, doesnt matter too much. Now look inside your new oil filter kit. You should have a package of seals. You should see a large rubber ring inside your package. Replace the seal at the bottom of the threads on your oil filter housing with this new one. Make sure you wet the seal really well with new oil before replacing it. You should also see a large copper washer. This is the crush washer for the drain bolt. Make sure you remove the old one from the drain bolt, sometimes they get stuck on, and replace it with the new one. Now "snap" the new filter back onto the housing. This side down: Make sure it snaps. It will make a sound when it does. Its obvious. Now put the drain bolt back in. The torque is 40nm. You want to saturate the new filter a bit so there is less oil starvation when you first start the engine. This is easy just pour about a half bottle around the oil filter in between the edge of the filter and the housing itself. NOT DOWN THE MIDDLE. Put the filter housing back into the car. Torque on this is 30nm initial back 180deg final torque 40nm. Or just use your hands and get it back on as tight as you can get it. It should tighten a bit when it heats up anyway. Now you already have .5qt in the car because you poured some into the oil filter housing. Now fill another 8qt in through the top. Take the car off the ramps and idle it at around 1500RPM's for about 5 mins. Check the engine oil level in iDrive. If it shows up as half way between the min and max lines. Add the rest of the .5qt after you turn the car off otherwise if it is already at max. You're all done. Take it out for a spin and come back and check for leaks. Reset oil change interval…. Turn on the ignition Press the trip odometer reset button for about 10 secs until the first service job appears in the cluster Press the button again to scroll through the different jobs Once you find the one you want, oil, press the button again for about 3 secs, then reset should appear and then press it again for another 3 secs. Should be all done now. Last edited by Bilbofraggins; 08-04-2018 at 12:59 PM.. |
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09-16-2018, 04:42 PM | #4 |
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The X6M motor requires 10/60w. not 5/30w
or any other grade. This is what I used, get two jugs, you'll practically use it all. Use a jug and 1/2 and check your level. BMW likes lots of oil in they're M series. Liqui Moly 2024 Synthoil Race Tech... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPL918E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf I read this is popular in Germany. I like Mobil 1 more, but at the time I could not fine the right grade. This filter Wix makes BMWs filters, Wix had been in the filter biz forever, and they make a very good filter. PAY attention to how you take it off, the spring they use will center the filter itself once assembled properly.I don't have the wrench size yet, sorry. Its easy to do. One O-ring goes on the plug, one is not used. Wix 57189 Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LVY22E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf enjoy, I love working on mine. |
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09-17-2018, 09:13 AM | #5 | |
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Drives: 2010 X6 M
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: 6ix Side
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09-22-2018, 11:38 PM | #7 |
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The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport) vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time.
BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines: * Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil * Castrol Formula RS SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil (BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420) If Castrol High Performance Synthetic Oil is not available and you need to add oil between oil changes, only use synthetic oils with the following specifications forward M vehicles: * Viscosity - preferred SAE 10W-60 * Alternative - SAE 10W-40, SAE 5W-50 or SAE 10W-50 such confusion over viscosity which is so important. I'll keep digging. |
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09-22-2018, 11:47 PM | #8 |
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M-line vehicle(Engine model start with "S" instead of "N") suppose to use the Castrol TWS 10w-60. On page 243 of the owner's manual, it only says that the 3.5i and the 5.0i use 5w-30. The X5M/X6M comes with the supplemental manual but it never mention what type of engine oil it use. I call the dealer and got different answer as well.
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09-26-2018, 10:07 PM | #9 |
Captain
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It’s 5W30 in my manual... and what it’s had since day 1... mine is a 2013 X6M..., I now use LL04 rated oil....
Last edited by Bilbofraggins; 09-26-2018 at 10:14 PM.. |
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09-26-2018, 10:08 PM | #10 |
Captain
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I do the oil changes on my vehicles not covered by BMW under their free In warranty maintenance program.
Here in 🇨🇦, I was using LL 01 rated oil....but switched to LL 04.... Currently I use 5W30 year round (no change from dealer/manual). Currently using it in the E71 X6M.... and will switch our other vehicles once BMW quit the free servicing. With time on my hands I researched the switch to LL04...specifically ACEA C3 / A3/B4 Low SAPS rated oil.... I also only used Top Tier ⛽️. Wondering if anyone else is using LL 04...and in addition if “anyone” not just in a colder climate uses 0W30/40...either year round or through the winter months... Below is the best info/link I have found to sum things up that is current. As much info is dated...or plain wrong. But the whole premise here is that our gas in North America is really in fact a lot closer to European specs since 2014.... “LL-04 (2005). API SN. ACEA C3 (similar to A3). SAE 5W30, 5W40. The LL-04 oils have been greatly misunderstood in the past but this is now in greater demand. Most LL-04 oils are intended for Diesels, although it was also approved for gas engines in Europe and other world markets. BMW never certified LL-04 for the US (see below). Diesel oil has long been valued by engine builders and tuners because of its higher levels of ZDDP and higher HTHS ratings, both are excellent indicators of engine protection at higher temperatures. LL-04 also has a lower SAPS value which is good news for direct-injection engines (all BMW turbo engines since 2007). As part of the efforts to make engine oil more environmentally friendly, the US EPA required ZDDP levels to be reduced in gasoline oil. However, Diesel oil was exempt from ZDDP reduction. BMW never certified LL-04 for the US market because a) there weren't many Diesels for sale here, b) it was incompatible with the high amounts of sulfur and Ethanol in US fuel. However, since 2014 our gasoline more closely matches European formulas and interest in LL-04 has increased. LL-04 and LL-01 are interchangeable/compatible but LL-04 is preferred for its higher ZDDP and low SAPS.” |
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