12-28-2014, 05:48 PM | #23 | ||
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12-29-2014, 11:57 AM | #24 |
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Does anyone know if the X6 hood with the power dome add any space for additional air circulation, or is the bottom side of the hood the same? I've been thinking of ways to lower engine temps.
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12-29-2014, 09:57 PM | #25 |
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Decided to be proactive and take a look, and sure enough, mine has a very small hairline fracture. I checked and my local dealer has the replacements for $30, in stock. So, will pick that up tomorrow and replace it. I'm at 36K miles.
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2013 E82 1M3 - Carbon Black/Black S65/DCT Track Toy
2018 F15 X5d - Carbon Black/Nutmeg Individual Oil Burner Tow Rig 2021 G07 X7 M50i - Tanzanite Blue/Ivory White & Night Blue German American Family Rig Former Family: '13 F25 X3 35i, '11 E91 335is, '11 E90 M3, '10 E70 X5M, '14 F30 328d, '03 E46 330i Dinan3 ZHP, '04 E46 330i ZHP, '12 F25 X3 35i |
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12-30-2014, 08:03 PM | #26 |
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Mine was just replaced at 26k miles. The high engine bay temps on the M appear to be tough on plastic and rubber bits. I've been heating our rather large garage this winter by popping the hood open when I come home from work.
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12-31-2014, 03:40 AM | #27 |
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Yep, I can agree with you. Pulling our X into the garage heat soaks our air handler unit, forcing the A/C to run even more. So, I've taught (and quietly insisted) my wife to back the X into the garage from now on. It helps, but not a ton. Come summer time I'll have to leave it outside for a few hours to cool off before pulling in.
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2018 F15 X5d - Carbon Black/Nutmeg Individual Oil Burner Tow Rig 2021 G07 X7 M50i - Tanzanite Blue/Ivory White & Night Blue German American Family Rig Former Family: '13 F25 X3 35i, '11 E91 335is, '11 E90 M3, '10 E70 X5M, '14 F30 328d, '03 E46 330i Dinan3 ZHP, '04 E46 330i ZHP, '12 F25 X3 35i |
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01-13-2015, 11:34 AM | #28 | |
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01-15-2015, 09:48 PM | #29 |
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haha, i'm pretty sure the tech knows it's tuned as soon as they cold started it. But i got away with it without any issues. It's not related, i don't think they can give me trouble
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01-23-2015, 01:12 PM | #30 | |
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01-23-2015, 03:10 PM | #31 |
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Mine went bad a while ago...part costed me like 30 bucks from the dealer, repair shop discount, changed it in all of 5 minutes without any tools. very easy fix. Noticed when my car started making a whistling sound when spooling up. opened the cover saw the hose was cracked, leaking a little oil. Swapped it and no issues since. Crack wasnt big enough to throw a CEL, just noticed something was wrong and did it myself
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01-23-2015, 04:57 PM | #32 |
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03-13-2015, 02:18 PM | #33 |
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Thanks to this Forum I got a quick answer. Started car today...rough idle and continued after warm. I searched forum and found this thread, looked under my hood and yep, same cracked hose. Car under warranty but part not in stock at local BMW so I ordered at getbmwparts. I'll use some good tape temporarily.
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03-23-2015, 07:54 PM | #34 |
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Helpful thread, 32k miles and noticed oil residue buildup in this area. This was the culprit, ordered up 2 hose kits and will keep 1 in the trunk as a spare
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03-25-2015, 04:37 PM | #35 |
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Mine has oil pooling underneath these hoses as well. Is this something the mechanic has to do or can I replace this cracked hose? Any BMW part number I can order from the parts counter?
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05-01-2015, 03:06 PM | #36 |
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How to remove the vacuum hose connectors
Hello,
I have an X6M 2013, and my hose is cracked in half. 30,000 miles. I did buy the replacement though. Thanks to everyone on the thread. How do you remove the end connectors? They are a bit weak, so I don't want to break the new ones. Thanks, |
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05-01-2015, 03:29 PM | #37 |
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You gotta call Vito Corleone's most trusted enforcers... have them whack it so it sleeps with the fishes There's some videos on youtube that show a step by step, mi capesci piasano
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05-01-2015, 04:03 PM | #38 |
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11-23-2015, 03:51 PM | #39 |
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So I just smoke tested my truck (each intake, one at a time and the vacuum canister) and as best I can tell I've got no leaks. Oddly enough smoke didn't come out of the connecting line, but oil weeping from it gave it away as it had collected on that bridge over the turbos. I've wrapped it in duct tape, but has anyone gone through with the idea of replacing it with a silicone line or a rubber line instead?
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12-10-2015, 08:29 PM | #40 | |
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I replaced the connecting line last week, since mine was cracked. Was driving the truck today and it started running really rough. Scanned the codes, ended up pulling code P112F. Looked everything over, started taking the car apart to try and identify the issue. Found that the passenger side connecting line broke clean off. I'm just gonna replace all of them now... I guess the plastic is old and brittle now. |
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12-10-2015, 10:31 PM | #41 |
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I had lose tubes feeding into the turbos themselves, ends up the gaskets have been updated and made thicker. Oddly enough when I replaced the tubes mentioned below, I got extra gaskets that go into the turbos, so if anyone needs them, let me know.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/591hiz8q8f...20137.mp4?dl=0 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_1341 - part #2 Both of my PCV pipes were weeping oil as well when I bought the vehicle, which BMW has since upgraded to a newer part number. I broke them more trying to remove them, but it's fine since I had the new ones.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's '97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's Last edited by m5james; 12-10-2015 at 10:37 PM.. |
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12-11-2015, 01:26 PM | #42 |
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Just had this done at the dealer, too. At 51k miles and 5.5 years since build date, 7/2010.
11-15-7-589-989 vent pipe 11-15-7-589-992 vent pipe 11-15-7-595-188 connecting line Sparkplugs and engine bay plastic confinement walls. Good thread OP! |
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05-08-2016, 09:10 AM | #43 |
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Having this happen to me now, so far the above mentioned pipe, the bank 2 1 way valve pipe linking intake to pcv system and the pipe on bank 1 from manifold to pcv system. All this in 3 days. I am unsure how to do one from manifold on bank 1 though. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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05-09-2016, 08:33 AM | #44 |
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I've thought about replacing some of the plastic lines with rubber ones last time around but then started wondering if the vacuum would cause the rubber lines to collapse (*not sure if there is enough vacuum to do this*), thus cutting air off completely.
On a side note. Had misfiring and limp mode when pushing engine past 2500 RPM. Driving normally and keeping the RPMs under 2500 no issues, as soon as I go past 2500, car starts lurching and eventually goes into limp mode. I get Injector 6 & 7 codes but I don't think that's the issue. Maybe vacuum pump? Any thoughts? Car is in the shop for 8 days, tech fried my FRM while updating the DME, parts on back order. Somehow can't perform smoke test unless car get's into ON position...and need ON position so they can control valves in the vacuum system (*won't go to ON position with fried FRM?). Just kicking ideas around while waiting...any suggestions? |
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