04-22-2019, 11:51 AM | #24 |
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How confident are you with RWD only in the torque monster that is the M57 X5? I'm considering X delete, I wouldn't be pulling the driveshaft, but I'm considering the flash. I tow fairly regularly, up to the tow rating limit, so I'm hesitant to push the components like that.
Also- With the X5M brakes: What's the smallest wheel that would clear them? Would 19" wheels clear? I'm very interested in upgrading to the M brakes. Again, towing, more brake can't hurt. I too love the look and theory of a taller tire, I'm bummed the 45 AR didn't work out.. |
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04-22-2019, 12:06 PM | #25 |
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E70 coming along nice Evan
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04-22-2019, 12:51 PM | #26 | |
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04-22-2019, 02:20 PM | #27 | |
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I can't really comment about wheel sizing as it can vary depending on the barrel design of the wheel (more applicable to aftermarket than oem but still important). Best bet is to test fit the actual wheels you want to run if you can or mock up the rotor + calipers measure the clearance needed then check the back spacing so you can cross reference that with your inner diameter of your wheel barrel. Thanks
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Shaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors - Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+, KW V3, RD Sport Sways, F14 SDC - EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor - JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP +Tial |
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04-22-2019, 02:43 PM | #28 |
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Wow since your struts are around 51mm, I don't think, you'll have any problem fitting the adjustable springs. (X5M is around 65mm) If the weight of the M57 X5 is close to the F85, the springs should work fine. I'm finishing up rod bearings on the Z3M and got a few maintenance items on the X5M to do before trying out these springs.
If you need any other measurements or pics let me know. |
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04-22-2019, 03:09 PM | #29 |
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Looks like the H&R 23008-1 lowering kit is adjustable from 1-2". Unless you're looking to go less than 1.2" lower in front, I don't see why you would't go with a fixed spring.
The other kits H&R made specifically for e70s lower 1.2" or 2" in front.
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04-22-2019, 03:21 PM | #30 |
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There are a certain set of 19s that should clear -- they are the ones that are Stock X5M Snow wheels-- not all 19s would fit
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04-22-2019, 04:22 PM | #31 |
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Gotcha. Good to know - I just figured that I can't even fit a fingertip between the barrel of the wheel and top/bottom of the caliper with 20s so the clearance on the 19" much be crazy. Would like to see how the wheel is made to manage that.
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04-22-2019, 05:21 PM | #32 |
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Where I do like the drop of the 1.2 springs having adjustability is nice since I might change tire sizes, might change my mind on the drop, and will have winter rims tires as well. Combined with the rear air which can be easily adjusted via coding it would be nice to have some adjustment up from as well.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Shaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors - Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+, KW V3, RD Sport Sways, F14 SDC - EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor - JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP +Tial |
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04-24-2019, 10:38 PM | #33 | |
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As far as Xdelete, would you suggest the Thor dongle or the standard cable? I'm leaning towards the cheaper option with the cable to attach to a tablet I have Xdelete installed on. I have a generic ELM and Carly but neither work of course.
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04-25-2019, 08:32 AM | #34 | |
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I 100% recommend the Bimmergeeks cable, it is the best K+DCAN cable on the market due to superior firmware. It works and works well. Other cheaper cables can work but are usually problematic (sound like your issue). Just get the Bimmergeeks.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Shaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors - Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+, KW V3, RD Sport Sways, F14 SDC - EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor - JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP +Tial |
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04-25-2019, 09:47 AM | #35 | ||
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04-29-2019, 05:11 PM | #36 |
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Had some time to dig a little deep into the engine bay. Removed the intake manifold to check carbon.
Not too bad, this is the runner in valve cover Swirl flap Bottom of flaps were weeping. Plan was to delete the flaps but ordered the wrong (22mm) plugs. SMH Decided to clean the manifold. Technique was a good soaking in Super Clean followed by power washing and proved to be quite effective. After a few hours the solution was as dark as night Here are the results, CLEAN! I replaced all manifold gaskets but these are aftermarket and I am not thrilled with the fitment, they are a bit thin and don't fill out the recess. LOL! [IMG] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QexJbgPEhSVrocnjkTAXFB7LBvx7oJZ7tLpvJ5sYZYGyQFFnE_ zLKZ7oFg9AGWsVvrgvIlo1nnGm_LeSOP_Q0ZsQIb5-sBSUJoWD-WzLFpI0YtH_0xgwiExeI_1YoIPWa_YP20bwvlK9ox5pk85v0CH H21n1VRpJHFQ4G-MSDNDH-g0ffKTZzH5s3QnHZIvCKeDZtm03djbqBGNIZZkLvHkOwUX2lS6 87sIFaAA3cgGqQlOQr2KWQgj6ivmZJ5MvFqCUUBPg2pdpjZFt8 fS8Ij_yNsozYHdXlCHp0ngIrP8_HHzq7ihjmhl15Qg5EtbWar8 xBmS4mom8N1EhvCpxIyKvs4lG2ZzmE6TtVlc9PCVMB5EpmONzj JLfPir-jqrWEQyaNxY31eSf-yAwlNb5P93HAkeaev0f39O5-tCqEuD7GhCuGVv5XT8mV83qN0mlNLBZubdZljAZ82b7TPGma_e RSktqkTrn4AR2Cuk4nrZmxAhO7VekCYiTMBcXoLSoAOZk0cSsp _P0dtqGDrCPjwo6oKv9YIfW_uHd5-KvSOyP9tpPwKju4xt7x9JDnOuiYJ13I-vhXDLEJP3rntQ6hiJiV6rohUbiUFRs-_adxp1Xw0DMa1KKgi49s5JxUPh3cj3yDLeoKkrY-68ZFQz-HAZmhAyldVDb=w883-h945-no[/IMG] Removed the rear entertainment system This center console is a pretty elaborate structure I have a nice little kit assembled if anyone needs this. Comes complete with the bracket and hardware. Flashed Rod Sutphin's transmission tune, excited to try this out, I hear great things. I also have a new pan/filter and fluid on the way to service the trans
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Shaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors - Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+, KW V3, RD Sport Sways, F14 SDC - EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor - JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP +Tial |
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04-29-2019, 05:33 PM | #37 | |
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He does his own tuning for the M57...so whatever it's worth I'd think he would push the limits vs a canned tune seeing that he's personally vested with two of his own personal cars. - plenty of other videos as well. Search 'DUDMD' or 'Dima G' I hear ya on the price of tunes...I got away with $400 for my X5M tune, but I did pay around $800 for the JB4 since it also had boost and meth controllers. I did MHD flash on our E61 535xiT...best $150 I've spent on that car. I was shocked when I got quoted $1500 for a turbo tune for my E36. Last edited by m5james; 04-29-2019 at 05:39 PM.. |
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05-01-2019, 06:42 AM | #38 |
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If you find yourself with the time, a write up on removing the rear entertainment would be appreciated. I will never use mine and it is always in the way.
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05-01-2019, 09:59 AM | #39 | |
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To remove the screen you need to pop off the plastic covers which cover the "horns" that the screen pivots on with these covers off you can remove the lower cover which will allow access to the screws connecting the screen to the metal bracket. Once the screws are removed you carefully need to snake the 2 wires which connected to the DVD player out of the console. The last step is to remove the metal bracket which resides inside the console which the monitor mounted to. This is a bit more work since you need remove the trim surrounding the shifter/iDrive controller, the trim surrounding the cupholders, the upper decorative (wood) trim that runs the length of the console, and lastly the long leather panel which is just below the decorative trim (and just above the carpet panels which were originally removed. The point of removing all these items is to get the long leather panels off to gain access to the upper screws which mount the metal bracket in the console. Viewing the console from the side you should be able to identify the curvature of the bracket and consequently the 6 silver screws (3 on each side) which are bolting the bracket to the console. The top screw is blocked buy the Now the tricky part that threw stumped me for a bit with the 6 screws out there is no other bolt/screw/clip to remove, the bracket is essentially pinched between the two main plastic uprights of the console and is positioned by 2 small pyramid shaped nubs. To release use a flat head screwdriver or a similar item to pry the console plastic outward and free the small nubs and eventually the entire metal bracket, you will slide the bracket upward and rearward to remove. When it's all said and done you will need the small trim piece which covers the upper/rear corner of the console where the monitor mounted and you will also need the "oddments" bin to replace the void left by the DVD player. Best to look your options up on RealOEM.com under "vehicle trim." Hope this helps.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Shaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors - Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+, KW V3, RD Sport Sways, F14 SDC - EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor - JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP +Tial |
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05-05-2019, 01:28 AM | #40 |
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How did you remove the wood trim on the center console? I'm trying to replace my dark popular with bamboo.
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05-06-2019, 02:57 AM | #41 |
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Nice build. I too cant wait to get rid of that rear monitor. It gets in the way every day, what a pain.
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05-06-2019, 09:25 AM | #42 |
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Sexy build! those wheels transformed the car.
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05-06-2019, 11:25 AM | #43 |
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Very nice transformation!
Literally upgrading everything from A to Z. Done pretty much the same to mine Few comments: - E70 X5M brakes will need only 19" to clear - xDelete? I'm running close to 400hp/ 800Nm and with AWD disabled my propshaft is crying for help. The E70 differential and proshaft is a bit underrated. 5-series is much more tough. I wouldn't run RWD on a tuned Diesel E70 |
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05-06-2019, 12:42 PM | #44 |
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Thanks for the suggestion. I went with the BimmerGeeks Pro-K+Dcan Cable and was able to disable xdrive.
What was the process to remove the front driveshaft? is it just 5-6 nuts/bolts and pulling the shaft out from the spline?
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