05-09-2014, 08:37 AM | #287 | |
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05-09-2014, 01:39 PM | #288 |
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No problem!
The thought has definietly entered my mind. The car is half way there already with the back being bags and there is ample room under the trunk floor to house everything without sacrificing usability. The challenge is to do this correctly without sacrificing the handling at all. I would be using the kw shocks with it of course. It will really come down to figuring out the progressive rates of the kw front springs and the oem rear bags. Once that is figured out the rest is easy relatively speaking. You just have to make sure the daily drivable height of the bags is inflated to match the rates. |
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05-09-2014, 02:05 PM | #289 | |
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Drives: 2014 650xi Gran Coupe Msport
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05-09-2014, 02:37 PM | #290 |
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Suspension travel and more air in the rear bags to do their thing. I honestly wasn't expecting that much of a difference, but it really is striking. The nice thing is I now know I'm as low as 'pleasantly' possible. Still lower than KW's settings, which is 16.3.
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05-09-2014, 05:23 PM | #291 | |
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I've thought of it too, the Airrex kit is also an option... though i'm not expecting wonderful things from there dampers. Perhaps air is the way forward, but with 3rd row seating i'm very limited on space for air tanks and compressors. |
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05-12-2014, 09:13 AM | #292 | |
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I firmed up the ride 2 clicks over KW recommendation for my 20" winter wheels, but I have decided it is too firm with 22's. It's great on smooth roads, but a little harsh on broken or rough pavement. We'll see if going back to factory recommendations makes a difference. All the brake parts are here now, so that will get done this week, hopefully.
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05-12-2014, 01:17 PM | #293 | ||
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Going back to the factory setting will definietly improve the ride. Nice to hear your brake saga is almost at an end. Can't wait to see some proper pics with your 22's. |
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05-30-2014, 02:43 PM | #296 |
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I know I know lol. Lip? Check. Diffuser? Check. Drop? Check. Nice exhaust tips? Check. Wheels? Le nope...
The Morr's were 10.5 x 22 and 12 x 22. Sizes were 285/30/22 and 335/25/22. |
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05-30-2014, 06:08 PM | #297 | |
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Hi Kimo. Great thread!!! love what you are doing with the ride.
Quick question. With the settings you have here... I assume this is lower than the KW settings. Do you think these settings will be good for 22" wheels? Also, would you recommend the Camber arms you purchased? If so could you please pass of the part #? I have the KW set sitting in the garage and install date is set for June 30th. I only want one shot at getting my ride stance set correctly as the place that I am getting the install done is quite expensive but well worth the $. I would prefer not to have to go back to change something down the road. TIA for any info or suggestions you have Quote:
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05-30-2014, 06:35 PM | #298 | |
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Regarding ride height the professional pictures in here are with my old 22's set to the lowest KW recommended height. Recommended height is 16.3 from hub center line to bottom of fender. I'm currently at 15.75 and 16 as you know. The size of the wheel should not matter as long as you kept the rolling diameter the same. In terms of aesthetics it's personal preference. My professional pics are at the recommended height if you like those. The camber arms are for the front and are oem. They give an extra -.5 of camber, which will put you around -2 degrees at the front after your drop. If that is too much for you don't bother getting them as you will be around -1.5 without. Part numbers are: 31126790973 left 31126790974 right There are 3 oem camber arms so make sure your parts guys gets the ones that say -.30, which are these part numbers if you decide to go with them. I also want to point out that the most important thing you should do is follow KW's recommended shock settings. Their settings are the only truly matched settings to their shocks and the stock oem rear airbags. Don't even pretend to know more than they do when it comes to compression rebound characteristics. Remember the settings are adjusted from full stiff (closed). You can actually set it up yourself before going in for the install. Turn them all the way to the right to close them and then back them off accordingly. I have a post in one of the KW threads here with the exact turn amounts. Just search KW settings and you should find it. Also you need an alignment afterwards but give it a week or two for everything to settle. Your camber will not be able to go into spec, but your toe will, which is the most important part for tire life anyways. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Good luck and be sure to post pics! |
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05-31-2014, 01:36 PM | #299 | |
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Outstanding!!! Thanks for the info. Ya, I knew I had to get an alignment, just didn't know it should be a week later. I think I'm going to ask them to dial it into the height you are currently at. Please excuse my stupidity but I am assuming at that height I need the camber arms to lengthen the life of my tires... Correct?
Thanks again. BTW, Im currently in MAUI. Love it!!! Quote:
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05-31-2014, 02:46 PM | #300 | ||
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Depends which camber arms you get. The negative ones improve turning but could increase inside tire wear. The positive ones would help to counter the negative camber that is introduced from lowering. As for the X5's the lack of negative camber in the front is one of the main reasons the outside of the front tires start to go bad quickly. These things are heavy and need negative camber in the front imo. I used to run -3.5 camber up front on my old M3 with no problems so I don't consider -2 to be anything to be concerned with. Just make sure your toe is spot on and you will get better tire life and better turning with the negative camber. |
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06-02-2014, 01:36 AM | #301 |
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Question about your kw, from ground how many inches is your auv lowered? And how is the ride... Mine is set at factory kw.. Just really rough hitting road bumps.. I almost wanna rip the kws off. I have to factor in my tires too... Since they are low pros
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06-02-2014, 10:16 AM | #302 | |
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06-02-2014, 10:23 AM | #303 |
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FYI I used M3 guys ride hight settings and is rides great. I left compression and rebound at kw recommended settings. Big thanks to M3 guy for doing the homework for us!
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06-02-2014, 11:14 AM | #304 |
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06-02-2014, 01:08 PM | #305 | |||
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Maybe your rebound compression settings are set from full soft? A common misconception about KW's is the fact that their settings are all based off of a fully closed shock, which full stiff, turned all the way to the right. They are then opened the recommended number of clicks/turns. It could be worth a shot to check. Quote:
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Agree!!! |
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06-02-2014, 04:55 PM | #306 |
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will do thanks guys, which regards to rear can anyone recommend a easier way to access by top rebound adjustment as the struts hidden
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06-02-2014, 06:32 PM | #307 | |
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The real pain will be the front top as that requires removal of the plastic bins over the shock towers. It's not hard to do at all, just a little time consuming. Remove rubber liner, remove plastic top covering, and then remove thick plastic tray. Should give enough room to get the adjuster on the shock. Good luck! One more thing, don't forget to reset the shocks by tuning them fully closed (to the right/full stiff) for a couple minutes before adjusting them open to the desired settings. Don't turn past the final click. There is a very slight movement from the last click to strong resistance. You don't want to be in this part. Clicks for adjustment assume that the final click before the no mans land is position 0. As a point of reference for you and anyone else curious here are my settings: Front: Height - 29.25 from ground to bottom of fender Rebound - 6 clicks from full closed Compression - 5 clicks from full closed Rear: Height - 29.50 from ground to bottom of fender Rebound - 9 clicks from full closed Compression - 5 clicks from full closed |
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06-02-2014, 06:40 PM | #308 | |
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Also here is my post from the KW setting thread explaining my reasoning for sticking with the recommended shock settings:
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